Yertis's Spitfire
Discussion
Right - here goes... and I'm stuck at the first hurdle. Revell just give daft paint matches using their own range. I've just gone to order up the paints from my friend Jon's website (www.thefunfare.co.uk if you're interested) and realised that, in the 25 years or so since I last assembled a kit such as this, I've forgotten the Humbrol colour references I once knew so well. And some of the colours seem to have changed names too. Duck Egg Blue - 23 - for the Spinner and identification flash around the rear fuselage is obvious enough. I assume the colour I knew as "Aircraft Interior Grey/Green" is now "Cockpit Green - 78". Does anyone - and I'm hoping Eric will be able to help me here - know the Humbrol references for the light grey used on the under surfaces and the slate grey and dark green used for the camouflage to the upper surfaces? This for a UK based RAF Spit circa 1943.
Thanks in advance as always. Off to Hannants now to check out some etched brass detailing bits and bobs.
Thanks in advance as always. Off to Hannants now to check out some etched brass detailing bits and bobs.
The official 1942 to 1948 Day Fighter Scheme was
Upper Surfaces - Ocean Gray (27) and Dark Green (30)
Under Surfaces - Medium Sea Grey (64)
Spinner (if there was one) - Sky (23)
Rear Fusealge Band - Sky (23)
Wing leading edges - Yellow (24)
I have given the Humbrol references in brackets. However, I would highly recommend Hannants range of authentic enamel paints called Xtracolour. They are more accurate than Humbrol paints and spray much better. They are actually gloss paints which do take longer to dry but ensure that decals adhere better and don't show the background carrier film. More recently, Hannants have released an ever growing range of acrylic paints called Xtracrylic which basically mimic the enamel Xtracolour range. They are also gloss but, being acrylic, dry much faster. However, even though I have bought some in anticipation of my next kit, I haven't actually used any of the acrylic range. However, my next model will be finished using these Xtracrylic paints.
The bad thing about the Xtracolour/Xtracrylic range is that they are generally not available in most shops and can only be bought directly from Hannants by mail order or by visiting one of their two shops.
Upper Surfaces - Ocean Gray (27) and Dark Green (30)
Under Surfaces - Medium Sea Grey (64)
Spinner (if there was one) - Sky (23)
Rear Fusealge Band - Sky (23)
Wing leading edges - Yellow (24)
I have given the Humbrol references in brackets. However, I would highly recommend Hannants range of authentic enamel paints called Xtracolour. They are more accurate than Humbrol paints and spray much better. They are actually gloss paints which do take longer to dry but ensure that decals adhere better and don't show the background carrier film. More recently, Hannants have released an ever growing range of acrylic paints called Xtracrylic which basically mimic the enamel Xtracolour range. They are also gloss but, being acrylic, dry much faster. However, even though I have bought some in anticipation of my next kit, I haven't actually used any of the acrylic range. However, my next model will be finished using these Xtracrylic paints.
The bad thing about the Xtracolour/Xtracrylic range is that they are generally not available in most shops and can only be bought directly from Hannants by mail order or by visiting one of their two shops.
Thanks Eric. I 'll try these Xtracrylic colours. Spraying enamels isn't fun, especially running white spirit through the airbrush when you clean it out which is a horrible activity. Having said that, acrylics, whilst I anticipate being healthier to spray, aren't very airbrush friendly in that once they dry they're a pig to get out, unlike enamels which do seem to eventually wash through.
I'm looking at decals now. The Revell decals are so badly out of register that the serial numbers aren't fully on the carrier film, which itself is quite thick. I think I'll find a photo of a suitable clipped wing Spitfire and buy some suitable roundels and serial characters.
There's more research in this than I thought - I now need to establish whether the codes should be Sky (I'd forgotten that was the official name for it) or Medium Sea Grey.
I'm looking at decals now. The Revell decals are so badly out of register that the serial numbers aren't fully on the carrier film, which itself is quite thick. I think I'll find a photo of a suitable clipped wing Spitfire and buy some suitable roundels and serial characters.
There's more research in this than I thought - I now need to establish whether the codes should be Sky (I'd forgotten that was the official name for it) or Medium Sea Grey.
Have a look at Hannants website and search out RAF Spitfire decal sheets. There are tons of them out there and all of very good quality. Aeromaster and RAFDecal are two companies who do excellent WW2 Allied aircraft sheets.
They also do generic RAF sheets which will contain correctly proportioned roundels, fin flashes, squadron codes and aircraft seriel numbers. To buy the right ones, you do need to know the correct style and dimensions of the markings for the model you have chosen to portray. Buying a sheet for a specific individual aircraft is much easier.
They also do generic RAF sheets which will contain correctly proportioned roundels, fin flashes, squadron codes and aircraft seriel numbers. To buy the right ones, you do need to know the correct style and dimensions of the markings for the model you have chosen to portray. Buying a sheet for a specific individual aircraft is much easier.
Dick Ward, the proprietor of Modeldecals (which were excellent and very detailed sheets) retired a number of years ago and ceased production. They can still be obtained second hand but there have been no new ones since the early 1990s. He was also commissioned to upgrade and improve some of the decal sheets included in Airfix kits - although cost considerations means that these decal sheets, whilst OK, are not up to his old Modeldecal standards.
Since the demise of Modeldecal, a lot of excellent newcomers have entered the market and some of them produce stunning work - especially if you are into World War 2 American bomber nose art
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Thursday 5th January 13:39
Since the demise of Modeldecal, a lot of excellent newcomers have entered the market and some of them produce stunning work - especially if you are into World War 2 American bomber nose art
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Thursday 5th January 13:39
richb said:
I used to call them "transfers" absolutly Eric!!!
Transfers for me too,it all changed when everyone started watching "Star Trek" and American cop programmes.
Why couldnt we have just stayed with Softly Softly,Zcars and Dr who.
I liked pre americanised olde GB
>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Thursday 5th January 17:27
I've always used transfer as well (just after dropping "sticker"
.
Decal comes from "decalcomania", "The process of transferring pictures or designs printed on specially prepared paper to materials such as glass or metal."
I assume the "specially prepared paper" is more important than the material
. Decal comes from "decalcomania", "The process of transferring pictures or designs printed on specially prepared paper to materials such as glass or metal."
I assume the "specially prepared paper" is more important than the material
One thing that bothers me with buying decals is that you usually have to buy several aircraft's worth in one go, rather than a single scheme. This was also a problem in my youth, which I got around back then by buying (for example) three of the then recently-released Hasegawa F14s just so I could use all the options in the Microscale set that I bought. In time honoured fashion I never finished any of the F14s and eventually through the lot away.
I still haven't found a suitable set of transfers/decals for my clipped wing Vb. I have found etched brass flaps, resin flying surfaces and a decent set of wheels. I think I'm going to need a decent canopy too - the Revell one looks wrong.
I still haven't found a suitable set of transfers/decals for my clipped wing Vb. I have found etched brass flaps, resin flying surfaces and a decent set of wheels. I think I'm going to need a decent canopy too - the Revell one looks wrong.
Trying to find suitable transfers/decals can be a problem - despite the vast range of stuff out there. I actually find that the decal sheets are works of art in their own right and I sometimes find myself reluctant to start cutting them up. However, one can find oneself getting far too "anal" about such matters if one isn't too careful. Recently, I decided the important thing was not to get too bogged down in trying to get the detail 100% right. Otherwise nothing will ever get finished. Therefore, I have adopted a new modelling rule - FTFM (Finish the F'ing Model) - even if it isn't going to be correct in every detail.
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Friday 6th January 07:59
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Friday 6th January 07:59
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