The Little Ying
Discussion
Hi guys
Your answers are appreciated as ever.
Nathan pointed out the throttle cable is fitted wrong, it could just be this sticking a bit and causing the high idle speed. Throttle cable should come out of bulkhead straight, and then clip along the cam cover in front of the spark plugs..
He also says the ignition timing looks too advanced (position of distributor looks to be adjusted a bit too upwards). He mentions it should be set just under halfway in it's adjustment range.
Going to give garage a call and arrange a sort-out window.
Your answers are appreciated as ever.
Nathan pointed out the throttle cable is fitted wrong, it could just be this sticking a bit and causing the high idle speed. Throttle cable should come out of bulkhead straight, and then clip along the cam cover in front of the spark plugs..
He also says the ignition timing looks too advanced (position of distributor looks to be adjusted a bit too upwards). He mentions it should be set just under halfway in it's adjustment range.
Going to give garage a call and arrange a sort-out window.
JimGTxx said:
That steering wheel looks familiar! Is that the one that came from my GTxx?
I think you will have to ask Alan on that one, i avoided taking internal photos as it looks and smells like it been sitting in a garage for 5 months. Which it has 
JimGTxx said:
Why are the front shocks different? or is it just the topmount?
Erm, don't know, should all be the same ideally. I can easy take more pics.RescueYing said:
He also says the ignition timing looks too advanced (position of distributor looks to be adjusted a bit too upwards). He mentions it should be set just under halfway in it's adjustment range.
I guess this is something I could do - can't be that hard - is there a pot or screw to turn?I can look in my workshop manual to find it.
Jim iirc I changed the front shocks but I don't think that they came with top mounts. Must have been done by owner between me and Gordon.
The wheel went with the car when I sold it. I thought I told you? Sorry
Gordon, don't play with the timing unless you know what you are doing. You'll need a timing light.
The wheel went with the car when I sold it. I thought I told you? Sorry
Gordon, don't play with the timing unless you know what you are doing. You'll need a timing light.
RescueYing said:
I guess this is something I could do - can't be that hard - is there a pot or screw to turn?
I can look in my workshop manual to find it.
It is very easy to do, but as Mr.TyreTread says, you need a timing light.I can look in my workshop manual to find it.
Shame you live so far away, if you were near I'd say bring it round and I'll set the timing correctly, then set the idle (and check the vacuum hoses and non-return valves). As that would take about 5 mins max.
The procedure is in the workshop manual and goes like this (I can detail this if necessary):-
The engine needs to be warmed up properly before doing this, shut of the engine, short the diagnostic pins (which also disables the ignition advance function), hook up the timing light, start the engine, loosen the distributor bolts enough so you can move it(not much!) point the timing gun at the hole in the gearbox where the flywheel is and move the distributer until the dot is constant and in the middle of the indicator fork in said inspection hole, tighten distributor bolts, shut off engine, remove wire/paperclip from diagnostic port, start engine and turn the screw on the top of the throttle body to set idle rpm.
I wouldn't like to say if it's correct/advanced/retarded without seeing/hearing it in person.
Yep, throttle cable hsn't been routed correctly (but that will take you seconds to rectify!)
You can tell if it is that, by opening up the bonnet and trying to clost the throttlebody by hand.
Edited by JimGTxx on Tuesday 2nd August 17:33
Was easy to reroute throttle cable into the guides on cam cover and per that photo.
Idle is still too high. I moved around the throttle body manually and it doesn't seem to be sticking at all.
I turned the idle screw clockwise until the idle read 950rpm. Took quite a few turns. Then went for a drive. Saw really bad hunting when stopped, almost stall and rise up to 1000rpm. Went home and reset screw back to previous setting.
Will visit garage tomorrow with workshop manual and instructions re ecu diagnostic mode etc
Eta - will get ignition timing done as per p3-23 in section 3 of workshop manual. Then get idle set.
Idle is still too high. I moved around the throttle body manually and it doesn't seem to be sticking at all.
I turned the idle screw clockwise until the idle read 950rpm. Took quite a few turns. Then went for a drive. Saw really bad hunting when stopped, almost stall and rise up to 1000rpm. Went home and reset screw back to previous setting.
Will visit garage tomorrow with workshop manual and instructions re ecu diagnostic mode etc
Eta - will get ignition timing done as per p3-23 in section 3 of workshop manual. Then get idle set.
Edited by RescueYing on Tuesday 2nd August 19:25
Hi Gordon,
If it's still hunting or fast idle despite efforts with the idle screw / timing, then some other possibles to look into,
The throttle position sensor has been tampered with and now is not calibrated properly,
Or the coolant area under throttle body which contains a wax operated valve for air bypass on cold start (air for auto choke), maybe seized, It's starting to become a problem more and more with the age of the cars. Unfortunatly cannot be fixed as far as i know as it's a sealed unit.
Low water level (check radiator not expansion tank) or air lock (unlikely) causing the coolant temperature sensor (loacted on cylinder head under dizzy, green plug) to send a incorrect temp signal to ECU.
For distributor, slacken the two bolts and turn it so its about halfway in its adjustment range, even without a timing light or putting ECU into diagnostic mode, this will be pretty close to factory.
If it's still hunting or fast idle despite efforts with the idle screw / timing, then some other possibles to look into,
The throttle position sensor has been tampered with and now is not calibrated properly,
Or the coolant area under throttle body which contains a wax operated valve for air bypass on cold start (air for auto choke), maybe seized, It's starting to become a problem more and more with the age of the cars. Unfortunatly cannot be fixed as far as i know as it's a sealed unit.
Low water level (check radiator not expansion tank) or air lock (unlikely) causing the coolant temperature sensor (loacted on cylinder head under dizzy, green plug) to send a incorrect temp signal to ECU.
For distributor, slacken the two bolts and turn it so its about halfway in its adjustment range, even without a timing light or putting ECU into diagnostic mode, this will be pretty close to factory.
RescueYing said:
About to post some photos and vids.
Did another 30 miles on mixed roads, 15 on dual carriageway. No problems, pulls smooth at 70 in 5th which is nice.
Only problem is idle is too high when engine hot. Page 118 of workshop manual has couple suggestions, i.e. replace throttle body. At cold it's around 900rpm which is fine. When hot it is steady 1200 or 1500.
Going to take back to garage for them to check it out.
This sounds like possible throttle body coolant wax valve stuck, The cold start revs should be between 1500-2300rpm for the very first few moments (depending on how cold) Did another 30 miles on mixed roads, 15 on dual carriageway. No problems, pulls smooth at 70 in 5th which is nice.
Only problem is idle is too high when engine hot. Page 118 of workshop manual has couple suggestions, i.e. replace throttle body. At cold it's around 900rpm which is fine. When hot it is steady 1200 or 1500.
Going to take back to garage for them to check it out.
The wax valve maybe stuck slightly open, so the cold start revs aren't high enough, but then when it warms up it's got too much air.
I may be wrong though!
Just spoke to them - they definitely didn't switch the ECU into diagnostic when doing the ignition timing.
Taking it to them on Monday.
eta: coolant level in radiator and expansion tank are both fine - have been checking these regularly.
Hunting now stopped after I reset the idle control screw back to initial setting btw.
Taking it to them on Monday.
eta: coolant level in radiator and expansion tank are both fine - have been checking these regularly.
Hunting now stopped after I reset the idle control screw back to initial setting btw.
munnsey said:
For distributor, slacken the two bolts and turn it so its about halfway in its adjustment range, even without a timing light or putting ECU into diagnostic mode, this will be pretty close to factory.
I haven't the first clue how to do this. Will Google 'distributor' and see what I get... Loosened the two bolts and rotated the distributor so that equal gaps on each side.
Then turned the idle control screw until I saw around 950rpm.
Took a little trial and error.
Went for run, car at proper temperature.
Idle is not now in the crazy 1400 region, more like 950/1000.
Only strangeness is when stopping fairly abruptly the revs drop to almost stall and slowly go up again.
No hunting though.
Better than before so stopgap until proper inspection. Thanks for your help guys. "What is a distributor" lol
Then turned the idle control screw until I saw around 950rpm.
Took a little trial and error.
Went for run, car at proper temperature.
Idle is not now in the crazy 1400 region, more like 950/1000.
Only strangeness is when stopping fairly abruptly the revs drop to almost stall and slowly go up again.
No hunting though.
Better than before so stopgap until proper inspection. Thanks for your help guys. "What is a distributor" lol
That sounds much better!
The 'dip' you get on deceleration when you disengage the clutch when coming to a stop, is likely to do with the throttle damper.
If you look at the physical stop on the throttlebody cable holder, when you pull it open by hand, a little damper should extend a few mm (it will have a vacuum hose, with a non-return valve connected to it).
This is to stop the revs dying too much when the throttle is snapped shut by controlling the speed or closure in the last few mm of closure, if the non return valve is not connected to it or it is the wrong way round (or the component has failed) it is more likely to do what you have described, or stall.
described as Dash pot and VTV in the following pic:-
How is the downpipe working for you? Made much difference to the sound and acceleration of the car?
The 'dip' you get on deceleration when you disengage the clutch when coming to a stop, is likely to do with the throttle damper.
If you look at the physical stop on the throttlebody cable holder, when you pull it open by hand, a little damper should extend a few mm (it will have a vacuum hose, with a non-return valve connected to it).
This is to stop the revs dying too much when the throttle is snapped shut by controlling the speed or closure in the last few mm of closure, if the non return valve is not connected to it or it is the wrong way round (or the component has failed) it is more likely to do what you have described, or stall.
described as Dash pot and VTV in the following pic:-
How is the downpipe working for you? Made much difference to the sound and acceleration of the car?
JimGTxx said:
The 'dip' you get on deceleration when you disengage the clutch when coming to a stop
Clutch comes out, revs almost die
JimGTxx said:
if the non return valve is not connected to it or it is the wrong way round (or the component has failed) it is more likely to do what you have described, or stall.
OK will take a look at that now. Excellent information - appreciated.JimGTxx said:
How is the downpipe working for you? Made much difference to the sound and acceleration of the car?
It is boomy and noisy but not too loud as that's not what I'm going for. The custom pea shooters on the exhaust are OK, but not quite the original look. Haven't checked on performance as am taking it very easy during run in period. Varying revs and gears quite a bit, not going above 4500 or so. Limiting load to just the odd occasion. Will do probably 400 miles this weekend.Eta - also have ITG air filter from Nathan
Edited by RescueYing on Thursday 4th August 14:17
Edited by RescueYing on Thursday 4th August 14:46
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