Golf Thread 2014 - All Things Golf!
Discussion
Loudy McFatass said:
Rosscow said:
This is the new 'Tour Series' bag, it's bloody lovely!
Yep I really wanted a white and orange tour series cart bag to replace my C-130.Unfortunately it has no cooler pockets on it so i won't be getting one
We only really need it over here for 3 months of the year so not a deal breaker for me!
CasTiger7 said:
I bought a PING G30 on Monday after having a quick driver fitting. I also learnt that my swing speed is consistently between 106-108mph, which is good according to the club pro. (What is an average pro speed, anybody know?)
He laughed at my original driver after he saw my swing
Anyway, played on Wednesday and finished 13 over after an appauling start.
Think I need to invest in some new irons and woods, just because my driver deserves some better companions in the bag.
Lovely driver! I wanted to go for the G30 range but couldn't justify the extra £250 on top of the G25's what with having to replace everything else as well.He laughed at my original driver after he saw my swing
Anyway, played on Wednesday and finished 13 over after an appauling start.
Think I need to invest in some new irons and woods, just because my driver deserves some better companions in the bag.
Yeah - anything over 100mph is fast really!! I presume you have an extra stiff shaft? Did you go for 9.5 degree?
I guess it depends how important adjustability is to you?
The G25 is the least adjustable of the lot - just 0.5 degrees up or down (eg. 9 - 9.5 - 10 only).
The SLDR and the G30 are much more adjustable - but a lot more expensive.
I've just bought a G25 in 9.5 degrees, stiff shaft with a couple of layers of tape under the grip. I've been hitting it really well on the range but haven't played with it yet - that's tomorrow.
You can get a G25 for less than £190 now.
For me adjustability isn't particularly important (probably won't use it!) so I couldn't justify the extra cost over the G30.
If money was no option I'd have a G30 over the SLDR - not a TaylorMade fan.
You should also consider the Titleist 913 D2 - more adjustable than the G25. I almost bought one but felt the Ping suited me more. Available for the same price too - it's a great driver.
The G25 is the least adjustable of the lot - just 0.5 degrees up or down (eg. 9 - 9.5 - 10 only).
The SLDR and the G30 are much more adjustable - but a lot more expensive.
I've just bought a G25 in 9.5 degrees, stiff shaft with a couple of layers of tape under the grip. I've been hitting it really well on the range but haven't played with it yet - that's tomorrow.
You can get a G25 for less than £190 now.
For me adjustability isn't particularly important (probably won't use it!) so I couldn't justify the extra cost over the G30.
If money was no option I'd have a G30 over the SLDR - not a TaylorMade fan.
You should also consider the Titleist 913 D2 - more adjustable than the G25. I almost bought one but felt the Ping suited me more. Available for the same price too - it's a great driver.
Came 3rd in society match today, shot 89 and scored 32 points. Blobbed 4 holes.
More importantly I managed to win my knock out cup semi-final!
Thought I'd blown it when I blobbed the first 2 holes and the other guy had 11 points through 4 holes but I managed to turn it around.
Had 4 birdie putts today - only made 1 of them unfortunately.
More importantly I managed to win my knock out cup semi-final!
Thought I'd blown it when I blobbed the first 2 holes and the other guy had 11 points through 4 holes but I managed to turn it around.
Had 4 birdie putts today - only made 1 of them unfortunately.
king horrendous front nine - 9 points!Jayyylo said:
Basic question. What do you mean by points and blobs?
Stableford points, based on your handicap and the stroke index given to each individual hole.To have a blob is to play a hole badly and not get any points for that hole.
So when I say I've scored 31 points with 4 blobs, it means the 31 points have come from the remaining 14 holes.
Read this: http://www.golfmagic.com/forum/golf-instruction/st...
ascayman said:
Rosscow said:
Jayyylo said:
Basic question. What do you mean by points and blobs?
Stableford points, based on your handicap and the stroke index given to each individual hole.To have a blob is to play a hole badly and not get any points for that hole.
So when I say I've scored 31 points with 4 blobs, it means the 31 points have come from the remaining 14 holes.
kentlad said:
BRMMA said:
whilst i agree with that, if he uses a club with less bounce it will just dig in and he'll hit it fat. the key to decent pitching is ensuring you make contact with the ball before the turf, if he gets that nailed it won't really matter what club he uses o what bounce it has
Agreed! Something that's worked well for me...Try getting a bit of forward shaft lean before you start your backswing...this will naturally help you play the ball back in your stance slightly...which should help striking if you are thinning/fatting shots
mattdaniels said:
Funny thing is, the videos I've been looking at online expressly say don't lean the club and don't sit the ball back in your stance because you end up hitting down on the ball which is not what you want.
Gotta love this game
And those videos are exactly right Gotta love this game
If you get a wedge, put your hands forward therefore leaning the shaft forward and put the ball in the back of your stance then you may as well use a 7 iron!
The only thing the above does is guarantee you a clean contact with the ball (because you've essentially taken the ground out of the equation).
You'll never get spin on the ball using that technique (which may be what you like!).
DuncanM said:
Rosscow said:
And those videos are exactly right
If you get a wedge, put your hands forward therefore leaning the shaft forward and put the ball in the back of your stance then you may as well use a 7 iron!
The only thing the above does is guarantee you a clean contact with the ball (because you've essentially taken the ground out of the equation).
You'll never get spin on the ball using that technique (which may be what you like!).
Sorry Rosscow but what you have said is quite wrong imo If you get a wedge, put your hands forward therefore leaning the shaft forward and put the ball in the back of your stance then you may as well use a 7 iron!
The only thing the above does is guarantee you a clean contact with the ball (because you've essentially taken the ground out of the equation).
You'll never get spin on the ball using that technique (which may be what you like!).
Ball back in stance, trap the ball = loaded with spin.
Also, this is actually a harder shot to repeat than using bounce - so harder to hit, and more spin
The idea is to trap the ball but using the clubs natural loft. Here is what Luke Donald says:
http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-instruction/2011-10...
FOR SPIN: DON'T
THE CLUB SHOULD SKID, NOT DIG, AT IMPACT
Some players understand the trapping motion required to increase spin, but they do it the wrong way. They move the ball way back in their stance and try to pounce down on it. That doesn't work for a couple of reasons: First, it takes too much loft off the clubface; second, it drops the leading edge down (left) so the club digs instead of skids at impact. That steep, digging action means you have to make a very precise strike, or you'll chunk it. The skidding action gives you room for error. Try it my way: Play the ball up and think, ball then turf.
JamesNotJim said:
DuncanM said:
All good fun!
b) Ball back in stance, hit down and through = loads of spin not less
This is the part I'd put a caveat too. You do not need to place the ball back in your stance to generate spin. I can create as much spin having the ball middle of stance or even forward. The main point is you need your hands arrive at the ball before the club head.b) Ball back in stance, hit down and through = loads of spin not less
The best way to generate spin is not to attack the ball steeply (which putting the ball back in your stance does). You need to come into the ball with a shallow angle of attack with your hands ahead of the ball/club head. Just like the pro's do.
DuncanM said:
I'm losing this one but will have one last try to be clear 
1) I personally do [b]not] hit my wedges on the back foot/loads of shaft lean/down etc
2) I politely dispute that hitting the ball as suggested, on the back foot/loads of shaft lean/down etc creates less spins
Read the Golfwrx thread again for what I'm getting at, or get yourself a copy of Hogan's 5 lessons and read his description of the skulled wedge
In fairness I think we are talking about different shots. The low checking pitch shot (as in your WRX link) is a pretty tough shot to nail, especially for a beginner.1) I personally do [b]not] hit my wedges on the back foot/loads of shaft lean/down etc
2) I politely dispute that hitting the ball as suggested, on the back foot/loads of shaft lean/down etc creates less spins
Read the Golfwrx thread again for what I'm getting at, or get yourself a copy of Hogan's 5 lessons and read his description of the skulled wedge
DuncanM said:
taaffy said:
Simple, efficient and the data backs it up ... no opinion, just hard facts.
http://blog.trackmangolf.com/how-to-spin-your-wedg...
Thanks for posting that, pretty much backs my opinion up?http://blog.trackmangolf.com/how-to-spin-your-wedg...
You advocate the ball back in your stance and trapping ball between club and ground.
That video unfortunately doesn't mention ball position in stance, but makes a big effort to try and 'sweep' the ball and take very little, if any, divot.
Obviously they are ensuring hands are in front of the ball at impact which results in the lower loft.
However it sounds like you have the ball back in your stance and trap it from a steep angle of attack.
This is a great discussion - if only we were all stood around a nice green so that we could show each other what we mean!
Perhaps we should arrange a PH golf day next year...?
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