hi
thanks for the post.
I didnt know at the time when i originally posted this topic how the turbo system works on these cars but now do.
this is what i am getting and what i understand:
0.65 bar with the wastegate solenoid disconnected (correct as far as im aware)
0.8 bar with the wastegate solenoid connected in closed loop mode with 75% or greater throttle (i can get 100%) and above 5000 rpm giving me WOT (wide open throttle)
I should be getting 1 bar at WOT. This is acheived by a 12v square wave form pulse fed to the wastegate solenoid. in effect opening and closing it to acheive the desired/correct boost. i.e: at the the moment 0.8 bar
I have confirmed there are no leaks from the wastegate solenoid by attaching up to 1.5 bar pressure to the solenoid and energising it (appling 12v). there are no leaks at all and is opening and closing as sweet as a nut with the supply connected and disconnected. so that rules that out.
There are also no leaks on the plumming from/to the turbo.
The actuator is brand new as the old actuator was only giving 0.45 MAX with it adjusted fully and the wastegate solenoid disconnected.
As i said i am now getting 0.65 bar with no wastegate solenoid connected which is correct.
There are no imperfections on the internal wastegate in the turbo and is closing 100% with no leaks.
THIS IS THE PART WERE PEOPLE THINK IM SLIGHTLY BONKERS I THINK. THE REASON FOR RESTRICTING THE PRESSURE TO THE ACTUATOR CAPSULE WITH THE WASTEGATE COMPLETELY CLOSED/SEALED OR DISCONNECTING THE HOSE FROM THE ACTUATOR WAS TO SEE IF THE TURBO WAS CAPABLE OF GIVING ME THE 1 BAR BOOST I SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET OR OVERBOOST. I PERSONLY DONT HAVE ANY OTHER WAY OF CHECKING TO SEE IF THE TURBO IS EITHER LOW PRESSURE/WORN OR HAS A FRACTURE IN THE CASING SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
But anyway i can get over boost with the hose off therefore i know the turbo is ok.
This makes sense to me and rules another part out of the equation if it doesnt to anyone else.
So now i know the turbo, waste gate, actuator, plumming, and waste gate solenoid are ok im on to faulty sensors or reading being given wrong to the ECU.
BUT:
TPS 0.7V - 4.5V AND GIVES 100% AT WOT
MAT AT A CONSTANT 30 DEG C
NOT SHOWING IT IS RUNING LEAN
BARO OK
INTEGRATOR OK
MAP GETTING TO 2.1 BAR (CONFIRMING THE 0.8 BAR SHOWN BY THE BOOST GAUGE)
IAC SET CORRECTLY (STARTS 170 WHEN COLD AND 35-40 WHEN AT 82 DEG AND AT IDLE SPEED 1050 RPM)
NO KNOCK COUNTS
IGNITION NOT BEING RETARDED
Coolant temp at 82 deg c
As you can probably tell i have free scan. i cant remember all the values or sensors but i have checked them all over and over again and Dermot has also confirmed for me that all is show 100% on free scan.
Items replaced that either needed replacing or were faulty:
Spark plugs (NGK)
Magnecor ignition leads
Fuel filter
TPS sensor
IAC valve
Air filter K & N ( RAM induction mod)
Larini twin exit sports exhaust
Cat convertor definately not blocked (ok)
Actuator
Rubber elbow joints on fuel vacume pipes (cracked and leaking)
Oil catch tank
I know some of these would have no effect on the fault but there just there so people know what i have done.
There are also plenty of more bits ( 3k worth) just cant bring them all to mind
Therefor my personal conclusion on all this would say that there is a problem with either the ECU, MEMCAL or the EPROM in the MEMCAL.
If i had to take a guess i would say the EPROM is corrupt.
I repair washing machines and telvevisions for a living so i know all to well how these items can fail.
This is what im thinking: Chip the MEMCAL to prove if there is a gremlin that i cant find still causing the ECU to limit the boost to 0.8 bar. If i get over 0.8 bar then i have prooved that the EPROM was faulty or just not programmed to give above 0.8 bar.
THE END
sorry for the essay guys and i do apreciate the help at all times. What ive said makes sense to me and this is how i think my setup is working, if im wrong im wrong but ive tried specialist lotus garages and they get no where too.
Ill wait for the thousand of replies lol
Dave