Super New Gearchange
Discussion
My '87 Turbo has just turned its wheels for the first time in six weeks.
I have just:
Replaced the crossgate cable
Re bushed the fore/aft rod linkage
Fitted an SJ crossgate extension rod modification
Fitted a new clutch slave cylinder
Fitted a SS red hose replacement
Replaced the transmission fluid
Guess what?....
The gearshift is much improved with almost all of the slack removed, particularly in the lateral axis.
The clutch action is much smoother with easier engagement of first and second.
Having done all these jobs at once, it is difficult to say which made the critical difference. I get the impression that there have been lots of small improvements rather than one dramatic one.
Having examined the gearshift linkage before starting work, it was clear that most slack was in the original crossgate extension rod where it links to the gearbox.
There was also a hell of a lot of lateral free play in the fore/aft rod bushes, but replacing these made very little difference to the shift quality or to the amount of fore/aft slack. The parts for this job, however, only cost a few pennies. In particular, the nylon washers/spacers in the pivot were very worn.
The combination of the new clutch slave cylinder and the SS hose seem to have resulted in a smoother clutch action and, hopefully, in an immunity from hot gear engagement problems.
Recommendations?
Well, I would say that the SS clutch hose is a necessary mod and it seems daft not to fit a new slave cylinder at the same time. The SJ replacement cylinder comes with a new stainless pushrod in any event.
Swapping the crossgate cable is a time consuming and awkward job, but merely fitting the SJ cable extension rod is a breeze and makes the most difference to the shift quality.
The transmission drain plug is fitted with a magnet. You will be horrified with the shrapnel that is stuck to it when you pull it out. Drain and refill the gearbox. It is cheap, easy and is a job that is often neglected.
I've just been out for a couple of hours and I'm very pleased with the results.
Cheers,
Pat.
I have just:
Replaced the crossgate cable
Re bushed the fore/aft rod linkage
Fitted an SJ crossgate extension rod modification
Fitted a new clutch slave cylinder
Fitted a SS red hose replacement
Replaced the transmission fluid
Guess what?....
The gearshift is much improved with almost all of the slack removed, particularly in the lateral axis.
The clutch action is much smoother with easier engagement of first and second.
Having done all these jobs at once, it is difficult to say which made the critical difference. I get the impression that there have been lots of small improvements rather than one dramatic one.
Having examined the gearshift linkage before starting work, it was clear that most slack was in the original crossgate extension rod where it links to the gearbox.
There was also a hell of a lot of lateral free play in the fore/aft rod bushes, but replacing these made very little difference to the shift quality or to the amount of fore/aft slack. The parts for this job, however, only cost a few pennies. In particular, the nylon washers/spacers in the pivot were very worn.
The combination of the new clutch slave cylinder and the SS hose seem to have resulted in a smoother clutch action and, hopefully, in an immunity from hot gear engagement problems.
Recommendations?
Well, I would say that the SS clutch hose is a necessary mod and it seems daft not to fit a new slave cylinder at the same time. The SJ replacement cylinder comes with a new stainless pushrod in any event.
Swapping the crossgate cable is a time consuming and awkward job, but merely fitting the SJ cable extension rod is a breeze and makes the most difference to the shift quality.
The transmission drain plug is fitted with a magnet. You will be horrified with the shrapnel that is stuck to it when you pull it out. Drain and refill the gearbox. It is cheap, easy and is a job that is often neglected.
I've just been out for a couple of hours and I'm very pleased with the results.
Cheers,
Pat.
You mentioned that your '87 has a magnet in the transmission drain plug. Does my '89 non-SE also supposed to have this magnet in the plug? And if not, where can I get one?
My other manual transmissions always had the metal slivers on the plug magnet when I changed the Tranny oil.
Lotusman
'89 non-SE
My other manual transmissions always had the metal slivers on the plug magnet when I changed the Tranny oil.
Lotusman
'89 non-SE
I removed the engine/tranny last week and have purchased a new cable, which will be much easier to put with an empty engine bay. I would like to add the SJ mod. Is there a part number? Does the mod come with its own cable or does it match up with the original cable?
Thanks a bunch,
louis
'83 Turbo
Thanks a bunch,
louis
'83 Turbo
Don't know about the part number for the modified rod.
It just screws onto the end of the standard cable as a direct replacement for the original extension rod.
The only fettling you will have to do is drilling out the rear bellcrank lever because the bolt for the rose joint is slightly fatter than the nasty clevis pin from the original extension rod.
To do this you will have to remove the bellcrank lever from the gearbox. This is very easy. While it is off you also have the opportunity to replace the bush from the bellcrank pivot, which will be worn.
I pressed the old bush out using the vice and a suitably sized socket.
I found that the most challenging aspect of swapping the crossgate cable was removing the spirol pin at the front end of the cable. I eventually cobbled up a small press which I made out of a bicycle chain link splitter.
The second most difficult bit was getting that blasted grommet back in. This, however, will be very easy if you have got the motor out.
Hth.
Pat.
It just screws onto the end of the standard cable as a direct replacement for the original extension rod.
The only fettling you will have to do is drilling out the rear bellcrank lever because the bolt for the rose joint is slightly fatter than the nasty clevis pin from the original extension rod.
To do this you will have to remove the bellcrank lever from the gearbox. This is very easy. While it is off you also have the opportunity to replace the bush from the bellcrank pivot, which will be worn.
I pressed the old bush out using the vice and a suitably sized socket.
I found that the most challenging aspect of swapping the crossgate cable was removing the spirol pin at the front end of the cable. I eventually cobbled up a small press which I made out of a bicycle chain link splitter.
The second most difficult bit was getting that blasted grommet back in. This, however, will be very easy if you have got the motor out.
Hth.
Pat.
lwasson said:
I removed the engine/tranny last week and have purchased a new cable, which will be much easier to put with an empty engine bay. I would like to add the SJ mod. Is there a part number? Does the mod come with its own cable or does it match up with the original cable?
Thanks a bunch,
louis
'83 Turbo
Hi,
The Crossgate Cable Extension Rod from SJS screws right into the crossgate cable. I found no modification necessary of any kind to do the switch. The part number is: SJ503. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
maigret said:
Hi Jim
While on the subject, what recommendation for S2 (1980) gearbox oil?
I am not familiar with the Redline brand you have mentioned elsewhere but most brands are available here. (NZ)
Graeme
Graeme,
One if the reasons that RedLine MT-90 is recommended is that it is not as 'slippery' as some other gear lubes.
As you're probably aware, the synchros' operation relies upon a certain amount of friction in order that the synchro can 'grab'.
Using a gear oil that is extremely 'slippery', such as some of the synthetics, can actually result in increased synchro wear as the synchro must rotate more before it grabs. This causes premature wear, not to mention a delay in shifting into gear. MT-90 allows the synchros to grab sooner resulting in longer synchro life and noticably shorter shift durations.
Also, gear oils have a much higher sulpher compounds than motor oils, that is why gear oil often has that 'rotten egg' smell to it, especially when it is used, as these compounds break down increasing the concentration of pure sulphur. One of the downsides of this high amount of sulpher is that it can react with water or moisture (which can migrate into the box) and create a mild form of Sulphuric Acid. This can lead to increased wear as well as corrosion to the internals. RedLine MT-90 has a lower sulphur content than many other gear oils and so is less likely to do so.
Try to find MT-90, since it's available in the UK, I suspect you'll find it in NZ (try racing supply shops). Just switching to MT-90 has improved shifting and eliminated many of the other complaints people have had about their gearboxes. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
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