famous gas (petrol) smell
Discussion
My, S4s was driven for 2 days and now is away for winter, i was blessed with clear skies, dry roads.
Day one was great, day 2 had the gas smell, i suspect the vent tube was OK, sunny californai, but the 0 degree canada weather cracked it to smitherines..
can someone tell me exactly where it runs, the desription is not clear...
thanks
Day one was great, day 2 had the gas smell, i suspect the vent tube was OK, sunny californai, but the 0 degree canada weather cracked it to smitherines..
can someone tell me exactly where it runs, the desription is not clear...
thanks
With the rear hatch open.
It runs under gutter rails of the hatch and over the top of the rear interior window with a glued piece of carpet over it on top of the window.
Take off the plastic carpet covered fuel tank covers by taking off the a series of small black sheet metal screws that run through tapped tinnerman clips on the body so you can see where it connects to each fuel filler neck.
Calvin
It runs under gutter rails of the hatch and over the top of the rear interior window with a glued piece of carpet over it on top of the window.
Take off the plastic carpet covered fuel tank covers by taking off the a series of small black sheet metal screws that run through tapped tinnerman clips on the body so you can see where it connects to each fuel filler neck.
Calvin
Replacement of breather hose on petrol tanks.
If you have a sniff of petrol in the cabin, the likely cause will be the breather hose. This hoses connects both saddle tanks ans allows fuel vapour to pass from one to the other, allowing vapour to be returned to the charcoal cannister and aids filling when only filling from one side. This hose is a clear plastic tube of very poor quailty that fails with time and the petrol fumes then leakout and through the seatbelt mounts into the cabin.
As my passengers kept on saying there was a petrol smell I decided to remove this pipe and hopefully fix the problem. If it isn't the hoses then you will have to look into the petrol tanks.
The jobs takes about 1 hour (once you have the parts) and can be done by the most inexperienced DIY mechanic.
Items required
6x Size 10 hose clips
2.1 -2.5 m 13mm Hose
Carpet glue
1) Firstly, you must remove the ABS panels on each side of the C pillar, these can be accessed from the engine bay and have 6 screws. These then just pull out.
2) By kneeling in the boot you should be able to see the filler hose, connected to this will be on the passenger side on clear hose (13mm - our target) and on the drivers side our clear hoses again plus a smaller hose running to the Charcoal cannister.
3) the clear hoses has a small section about 10cm long connecting to aplastic L shaped connector, this then connects to a 190cm length of hose which runs up the C pillar and across the top of the rear window and down the other C pillar to another L connector then another 10cm short length to the other filler hose. The clear tube is held on with plastic hose clips which can be pulled off easily with a pair of pilers.
4) Remove the hoses from the filler hose and slowly pull them out until you reach the carpet at the top of the C pillars. This is the time consuming part as you will need to pull the carpet away from the top of the rear windowand remove the hoses behind, put with a bit of effort it will come. Care should be taken not to tear the carpet.
5) Just a note, my clear hoses had 12 spilts in it, a complete hole and a dodgy repair using short sections of fuel pipe, plus copious amounts of leccy tape.
6) Once removed, unplug the L connectors as you will reuse these when making up the new hose. The problem with the hose was trying to find one that wasn't too thick as it would not fit back in the channel and it also has to be fuel resistant. Fuel hose was just too thick but I managed to aquire some braided 13mm fuel resistant Aeroqui hose than that did not have too thicker side wall (expensive mind you £8 per meter plus Vat). This hose will last the lifetime of the car. I used the old hose as a template and cut three sections and refitted the L connectors securing the hose with hose clips. You may want to leave the last connector until you have the hose in place, then you will be get the angle right.
7) Refitting the hose was easy, start at one end connrct the short 10cm section to the hose filler pipe, the most fiddly bit is doing up the hoses clips on the connection on the filler pipes, then fit the pipe in the channel that the old hose came out of and then reglue the carpet back in place and finish the connection at the other filler pipe.
If you have a sniff of petrol in the cabin, the likely cause will be the breather hose. This hoses connects both saddle tanks ans allows fuel vapour to pass from one to the other, allowing vapour to be returned to the charcoal cannister and aids filling when only filling from one side. This hose is a clear plastic tube of very poor quailty that fails with time and the petrol fumes then leakout and through the seatbelt mounts into the cabin.
As my passengers kept on saying there was a petrol smell I decided to remove this pipe and hopefully fix the problem. If it isn't the hoses then you will have to look into the petrol tanks.
The jobs takes about 1 hour (once you have the parts) and can be done by the most inexperienced DIY mechanic.
Items required
6x Size 10 hose clips
2.1 -2.5 m 13mm Hose
Carpet glue
1) Firstly, you must remove the ABS panels on each side of the C pillar, these can be accessed from the engine bay and have 6 screws. These then just pull out.
2) By kneeling in the boot you should be able to see the filler hose, connected to this will be on the passenger side on clear hose (13mm - our target) and on the drivers side our clear hoses again plus a smaller hose running to the Charcoal cannister.
3) the clear hoses has a small section about 10cm long connecting to aplastic L shaped connector, this then connects to a 190cm length of hose which runs up the C pillar and across the top of the rear window and down the other C pillar to another L connector then another 10cm short length to the other filler hose. The clear tube is held on with plastic hose clips which can be pulled off easily with a pair of pilers.
4) Remove the hoses from the filler hose and slowly pull them out until you reach the carpet at the top of the C pillars. This is the time consuming part as you will need to pull the carpet away from the top of the rear windowand remove the hoses behind, put with a bit of effort it will come. Care should be taken not to tear the carpet.
5) Just a note, my clear hoses had 12 spilts in it, a complete hole and a dodgy repair using short sections of fuel pipe, plus copious amounts of leccy tape.
6) Once removed, unplug the L connectors as you will reuse these when making up the new hose. The problem with the hose was trying to find one that wasn't too thick as it would not fit back in the channel and it also has to be fuel resistant. Fuel hose was just too thick but I managed to aquire some braided 13mm fuel resistant Aeroqui hose than that did not have too thicker side wall (expensive mind you £8 per meter plus Vat). This hose will last the lifetime of the car. I used the old hose as a template and cut three sections and refitted the L connectors securing the hose with hose clips. You may want to leave the last connector until you have the hose in place, then you will be get the angle right.
7) Refitting the hose was easy, start at one end connrct the short 10cm section to the hose filler pipe, the most fiddly bit is doing up the hoses clips on the connection on the filler pipes, then fit the pipe in the channel that the old hose came out of and then reglue the carpet back in place and finish the connection at the other filler pipe.
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