Which chain oil?
Discussion
N8CYL said:
Am I missing something, what is the advantage of showroom clean chains?
For me it's the silence, I clean and lube mine whenever it starts to make a noticable noise I use either the park tools chain cleaning thing or my brother has a muc off can with one built into it which is alot easier then just wipe any excess off and apply muc off lube (pink stuff) to each link. My pedals are squeaking now so that's my next thing to figure out how to service I can't abide noise on the road bike.I tried a few chain lubes and am on a bottle of weldtite TF2 at the moment seems to work well.
I tried a dry lube and the chain needed cleaning and re-lubing every two days, I do 120-150 miles
a week on and off road; lubing with a wet lube the chain is quiet for maybe 150 miles. No lube at all and the chain did a month before the chain started to jump, several of the rollers were missing and the cassette and chainwheels were donald ducked. I do a 35 mile ride every other day, if it's wet I do try and avoid the worst of the mud.
I tried a dry lube and the chain needed cleaning and re-lubing every two days, I do 120-150 miles
a week on and off road; lubing with a wet lube the chain is quiet for maybe 150 miles. No lube at all and the chain did a month before the chain started to jump, several of the rollers were missing and the cassette and chainwheels were donald ducked. I do a 35 mile ride every other day, if it's wet I do try and avoid the worst of the mud.
yellowjack said:
As is normal for these threads, many posters are suggesting their own favourite chain lube. I've used several makes, and flit between dry and wet lube as and when I feel the conditions merit it. I use Muc-Off currently, as it's what my excellent local shop stocks, and because I've no complaints about it's performance.
The key to making best use of any chain lube, though, is to thoroughly clean the chain regularly, before re-lubing it. When applying the lube, do so sparingly, there's no need to slather it on. The side plates don't need to be lubed, just spot one drop of lube onto each roller, ideally between the inner face of the inner plate and the roller itself. Then let capillary action draw the lube into the space between the roller and the rivet/pin, and also between the outside edges of the roller and the inside faces of the inner link plate. Start at a known point, like a 'quick link' if one is fitted, or just a link marked with paint or a marker pen, and make sure you do every link. Spin the pedals backwards for a few full revolutions of the chain to encourage the lube to penetrate into the rollers, then give it a few minutes before wiping any excess lube off the outside of the chain.
As for when, or how often to clean and lube your chain? I do so every other ride for the MTB (lots of sandy heathland locally) and about once a fortnight or every 200 miles or so on the road bike. You can tell it needs doing if you grab the chain with both hands and try to twist the links. You'll hear (and feel, to some extent) a gritty noise, which is all the dust and tiny grit that's found it's way into the rollers. You'll know when you've cleaned it properly, too, because the grittiness won't be there when you twist the links after it's been properly cleaned.
Cleaning a chain is best done by pouring enough degreaser into an ice cream tub to cover the (removed) chain, and shaking fairly vigorously. Let it stand for a while, then shake it again. Then rinse through with clean water, and let it dry thoroughly. I sometimes apply WD40/GT85 in another tub, to drive any residual moisture out, wipe the excess off with a rag, then let the rest evaporate, before re-fitting the chain and applying the lube. If I'm cleaning the chain without removal, then I use a jar and a toothbrush to apply degreaser near the middle of the chain run, well away from any bearings. Scrub the chain, rinse gently with water, then WD40/GT85, and re-lube as before. It all sounds like a faff, and very long winded, but you soon develop a system, especially if you do several bikes at once, and it doesn't take as long as you'd think. While degreaser is working it's magic, or you wait for stuff to dry or evaporate, you can get about the rest of the bike, cleaning rims, brake blocks, cables, etc, and oiling pivot points on brake callipers and such, and checking tyres for cuts and other damage. Before you know it you've given your bike a thorough safety check and a minor 'service' to boot.
Great post The key to making best use of any chain lube, though, is to thoroughly clean the chain regularly, before re-lubing it. When applying the lube, do so sparingly, there's no need to slather it on. The side plates don't need to be lubed, just spot one drop of lube onto each roller, ideally between the inner face of the inner plate and the roller itself. Then let capillary action draw the lube into the space between the roller and the rivet/pin, and also between the outside edges of the roller and the inside faces of the inner link plate. Start at a known point, like a 'quick link' if one is fitted, or just a link marked with paint or a marker pen, and make sure you do every link. Spin the pedals backwards for a few full revolutions of the chain to encourage the lube to penetrate into the rollers, then give it a few minutes before wiping any excess lube off the outside of the chain.
As for when, or how often to clean and lube your chain? I do so every other ride for the MTB (lots of sandy heathland locally) and about once a fortnight or every 200 miles or so on the road bike. You can tell it needs doing if you grab the chain with both hands and try to twist the links. You'll hear (and feel, to some extent) a gritty noise, which is all the dust and tiny grit that's found it's way into the rollers. You'll know when you've cleaned it properly, too, because the grittiness won't be there when you twist the links after it's been properly cleaned.
Cleaning a chain is best done by pouring enough degreaser into an ice cream tub to cover the (removed) chain, and shaking fairly vigorously. Let it stand for a while, then shake it again. Then rinse through with clean water, and let it dry thoroughly. I sometimes apply WD40/GT85 in another tub, to drive any residual moisture out, wipe the excess off with a rag, then let the rest evaporate, before re-fitting the chain and applying the lube. If I'm cleaning the chain without removal, then I use a jar and a toothbrush to apply degreaser near the middle of the chain run, well away from any bearings. Scrub the chain, rinse gently with water, then WD40/GT85, and re-lube as before. It all sounds like a faff, and very long winded, but you soon develop a system, especially if you do several bikes at once, and it doesn't take as long as you'd think. While degreaser is working it's magic, or you wait for stuff to dry or evaporate, you can get about the rest of the bike, cleaning rims, brake blocks, cables, etc, and oiling pivot points on brake callipers and such, and checking tyres for cuts and other damage. Before you know it you've given your bike a thorough safety check and a minor 'service' to boot.
Always used Finish Line wet lube (green bottle) after trying everything from chainsaw oil (too sticky), 3-in-1 (too thin), engine oil (flung off chain), 'Purple Extreme' (too thin), dry lubes (not able to move around chain so chain ends up noisy and under-lubricated), white lightning (as dry lubes), etc.
Finish Line seems to have good film strength, anti-fling properties and seems to be quite water-resistant. Having said that, it will attract dirt like any wet lube and the chain needs periodic wiping down and re-lubing.
+1 for the immersion cleaning method. I use white spirit, wipe the chain after to dry it as much as possible and then re-lube the next day. Always takes more lube than I expect after immersion cleaning as the links are completely dry...
Finish Line seems to have good film strength, anti-fling properties and seems to be quite water-resistant. Having said that, it will attract dirt like any wet lube and the chain needs periodic wiping down and re-lubing.
+1 for the immersion cleaning method. I use white spirit, wipe the chain after to dry it as much as possible and then re-lube the next day. Always takes more lube than I expect after immersion cleaning as the links are completely dry...
I wipe the chain with a rag every couple of weeks and clean with a Park Tool chain device every month or so. That's based on around 50 miles of off road riding a week.
Always use Muc-Off ceramic lube. Wet or dry depending on the time of year. I tend to lube when the drivetrain gets a little noisy. Half the time I don't bother cleaning the chain beforehand.
Always use Muc-Off ceramic lube. Wet or dry depending on the time of year. I tend to lube when the drivetrain gets a little noisy. Half the time I don't bother cleaning the chain beforehand.
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