MX5 mk1 tuning
Discussion
Rust free MK1s do exist. I'd say mine is 95% rust free. Needed a small patch of welding for the MOT and there is a tiny patch of bubbling under the paint on the front arch.
I'm in two minds as whether to modify or sell. I'm pretty bored of it in standard form now. At the very least I'd want an LSD, firmer suspension and an extra 40bhp.
I'm in two minds as whether to modify or sell. I'm pretty bored of it in standard form now. At the very least I'd want an LSD, firmer suspension and an extra 40bhp.
Buy this. Mazda Miata Performance Handbook. http://pdfsr.com/isbn/9780760304372
Paddy_N_Murphy said:
Think we'll end up with an equivalent of Singer but for MX5's in 20 years to come ? ? ?
Bloody hope so! In some ways, I think there's a market there for it now. In the States Flyin Miata seem to do a roaring trade in fully fettled drive in/drive out updates that go across the entire car.
I'm building mine with a similar view to the OP - anything else I'd want is either too expensive, too compromised (typically numb steering and poor control weighting), or too flash for daily use. I figured spend somewhere around £10k and have a car that suits me more than ones that cost three times that.
Exactly my view. Only car I really wanted was the Evora, although a TVR T350 kept tugging on heart strings. Both three times the cost.
I'm taking a longer term route, but with a similar aim - mk2 RS (6 speed box and torsen diff) that's been fully sorted and protected by The MX5 Restorer near Brighton. A set of wishbones are on their way for me to refurb and fit new bushes. It's already got a half cage and Gaz dampers.
Then, once everything else is perfect, I'll be fitting a 3l v6 from an S Type, mated to the existing drive train. Should be around 250 reliable bhp naturally aspirated. Will likely spend more than 10k all in though.
I'm taking a longer term route, but with a similar aim - mk2 RS (6 speed box and torsen diff) that's been fully sorted and protected by The MX5 Restorer near Brighton. A set of wishbones are on their way for me to refurb and fit new bushes. It's already got a half cage and Gaz dampers.
Then, once everything else is perfect, I'll be fitting a 3l v6 from an S Type, mated to the existing drive train. Should be around 250 reliable bhp naturally aspirated. Will likely spend more than 10k all in though.
The 2.5 V6 from the MX5 goes in 'relatively easily' if you fancy keeping it all Mazda.
It's probably a b
h of a job as any conversion like this will be, but the parts are available to buy to make it as straightforward as possible (tubular subframe, gearbox adapters, sumps, headers etc).
It's a great little engine, physically smaller and lighter than the original engine which improves handling and usually puts out around 230bhp / 200lbft with the aftermarket manifolds, throttle bodies and ECU that are part of the conversion.
Can also be made to rev like a bike if that's your thing, bottom end is good for 9,500rpm easily and can theoretically go as high as 12,000rpm if you're a sadomasochist!
Would definitely be my choice. Just listen to it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPJVzlV5Gig
You can even buy crate engines, from factor spec up to full race tune. http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/Crate_Engines_...
It's probably a b
h of a job as any conversion like this will be, but the parts are available to buy to make it as straightforward as possible (tubular subframe, gearbox adapters, sumps, headers etc).It's a great little engine, physically smaller and lighter than the original engine which improves handling and usually puts out around 230bhp / 200lbft with the aftermarket manifolds, throttle bodies and ECU that are part of the conversion.
Can also be made to rev like a bike if that's your thing, bottom end is good for 9,500rpm easily and can theoretically go as high as 12,000rpm if you're a sadomasochist!
Would definitely be my choice. Just listen to it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPJVzlV5Gig
You can even buy crate engines, from factor spec up to full race tune. http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/Crate_Engines_...
Edited by Kozy on Saturday 9th April 21:31
k-ink said:
Well that sounds pretty damn good!
Are there any garages in the UK doing these engine swops?
There is a woman on MX5Nutz who builds them, she pretty much pioneered the swap, designed all the parts etc.Are there any garages in the UK doing these engine swops?
http://crapengineering.weebly.com/
The swap I'm looking at has only been done once, but by a chap designing a full conversion kit in theory able to be done over a weekend. There's a thread on mx5nutz, the work was done by the workshop attached to the ecu manufacturer, so base maps are likely to need little tweaking!
It's looking like I'll be ready to think about it properly in about 6 months, once I've got other areas seen to (brakes next, freakyparts do a nice range of options).
Mazda 2.5 v6 had been done loads of times, but they're not as plentiful as Jag engines and as mine is a daily the extra torque will be welcomed.
It's looking like I'll be ready to think about it properly in about 6 months, once I've got other areas seen to (brakes next, freakyparts do a nice range of options).
Mazda 2.5 v6 had been done loads of times, but they're not as plentiful as Jag engines and as mine is a daily the extra torque will be welcomed.
Ha! Really?
I drove a K series engined kit car, in a high state of tune, for 20k miles commuting - thrashing the st out of it at every opportunity, and often spending large periods of time near the redline on the motorway. Not a sniff of any issue.
Less than 3k into driving my 98 mk2, and I'd already blown the head gasket big time, waterpump coils and cambelt have had to be replaced, and even after all of that it's burning oil - most likely due to rings, but I'm also told valve stem seals are a common cause. This is a car that had been well maintained by the two previous owners I know...
Then we get into failing radiator caps, and so on.
Bullet proof they're certainly not, although they are pretty cheap to repair and often are repairable...
I drove a K series engined kit car, in a high state of tune, for 20k miles commuting - thrashing the s
t out of it at every opportunity, and often spending large periods of time near the redline on the motorway. Not a sniff of any issue. Less than 3k into driving my 98 mk2, and I'd already blown the head gasket big time, waterpump coils and cambelt have had to be replaced, and even after all of that it's burning oil - most likely due to rings, but I'm also told valve stem seals are a common cause. This is a car that had been well maintained by the two previous owners I know...
Then we get into failing radiator caps, and so on.
Bullet proof they're certainly not, although they are pretty cheap to repair and often are repairable...
Sway said:
Ha! Really?
I drove a K series engined kit car, in a high state of tune, for 20k miles commuting - thrashing the st out of it at every opportunity, and often spending large periods of time near the redline on the motorway. Not a sniff of any issue.
Less than 3k into driving my 98 mk2, and I'd already blown the head gasket big time, waterpump coils and cambelt have had to be replaced, and even after all of that it's burning oil - most likely due to rings, but I'm also told valve stem seals are a common cause. This is a car that had been well maintained by the two previous owners I know...
Then we get into failing radiator caps, and so on.
Bullet proof they're certainly not, although they are pretty cheap to repair and often are repairable...
Sounds like it wasn't looked after before the only time ive seen a headgasket fail actually 2 times on a mx5 was one when car blew a radiator pipe due to a blocked rad continued to drive till it stopped going and the other one with a water leak that he forgot to top up and blew the gasket both down to driver error or manianice issues.I drove a K series engined kit car, in a high state of tune, for 20k miles commuting - thrashing the s
t out of it at every opportunity, and often spending large periods of time near the redline on the motorway. Not a sniff of any issue. Less than 3k into driving my 98 mk2, and I'd already blown the head gasket big time, waterpump coils and cambelt have had to be replaced, and even after all of that it's burning oil - most likely due to rings, but I'm also told valve stem seals are a common cause. This is a car that had been well maintained by the two previous owners I know...
Then we get into failing radiator caps, and so on.
Bullet proof they're certainly not, although they are pretty cheap to repair and often are repairable...
A cambelt is a serviable item and mx5 engines are non interference so even if it does snap just a case of re timing, I have heard and seen complaints on burning oil specially in the mk2 engine but often are high milers or using the wrong oil for the car. Coil packs can go on any car they have a life span and again neglecting spark plug changes with reduce life on them.
Ive seen the well manintained mx5 claim and 90% are rough and f
k rusted sills/ blocked roof drains, manky coolant, engine covered in oil etc etc. Mk1s though tend to be a bit better locked after they tend to be owned by people that know cars inside out where as the mk2 are in the range of people that just want a converitable.Back to tuning depends on what you want from the car. I run 2 completely different mx5 one a vr ltd I bough already with a few upgrades racing beat front bumper arc chamber cross over pipe and air box which are incrediable rare set up to have both together and a few other bits. Ive since added a de cat and twin exit larini exhaust system, jap racing adjustable dampers with lowered springs, upgradeds the pads to mintex 1144 pads and fitted hel performance braided brake lines. Also just had a full respray too.
This is what I like in a daily road car not to stupid you can lose your license with but enough to be different and fun to drive.
My other mx5 well its a mev exocet exo style kit car with mk1 mx5 running gear. So to start with it reduces the weight almost in half to below 600kg there is one in the uk at 495kg but was built with a lot of carbon fibre.
The list of mods are as followed
suspension/brakes/tyres/wheels...
gaz 30 way adjustable dampers and height adjustable
Jackson racing anti roll bars
adjustable rose joint arb links
fully polybushed all round
corner weighed and 4 wheel geometry
wildwood 4 pot brake calipers
mk2.5 big brake conversion running mintex 1144 brake pads
hel performance brake lines
light weight wheels
2 sets of tyres one general federal rsr the other brand new to the market nankang ar1 semi slick soft compound tyres
Engine/transmission etc
g19 turbo conversion
td04 turbo
fast 5 ally rad
fast 5 silicone hose set
rx8 injectors
walbro fuel pump
me221 ecu fully customized
xtd lighten flywheel and 6 puck paddle clutch
3.9 torsen diff
other bits include light weight seats fiberglass, 6 point harness, gel battery the list goes on. The set up I could run 250bhp without the need to touch the internals with a car at sub 600kg makes for a very quick car.
This is what I like in a daily road car not to stupid you can lose your license with but enough to be different and fun to drive.
My other mx5 well its a mev exocet exo style kit car with mk1 mx5 running gear. So to start with it reduces the weight almost in half to below 600kg there is one in the uk at 495kg but was built with a lot of carbon fibre.
The list of mods are as followed
suspension/brakes/tyres/wheels...
gaz 30 way adjustable dampers and height adjustable
Jackson racing anti roll bars
adjustable rose joint arb links
fully polybushed all round
corner weighed and 4 wheel geometry
wildwood 4 pot brake calipers
mk2.5 big brake conversion running mintex 1144 brake pads
hel performance brake lines
light weight wheels
2 sets of tyres one general federal rsr the other brand new to the market nankang ar1 semi slick soft compound tyres
Engine/transmission etc
g19 turbo conversion
td04 turbo
fast 5 ally rad
fast 5 silicone hose set
rx8 injectors
walbro fuel pump
me221 ecu fully customized
xtd lighten flywheel and 6 puck paddle clutch
3.9 torsen diff
other bits include light weight seats fiberglass, 6 point harness, gel battery the list goes on. The set up I could run 250bhp without the need to touch the internals with a car at sub 600kg makes for a very quick car.
k-ink said:
Would it make sense to import a rust free car then do the work? Or would this be a waste of money? Of course it might be cheaper to buy one already modified, but then will it be rust free?!
Interesting replies so far. Especially the ones saying don't do too much. A refresh, better brakes, rubber, bushes, dampers then power was my line of thought. It would be good to have it capable on track for once a year. Bust mostly for road fun.
Having owned four MX5s over the years, ranging right back to a Sep '89 car, i would say you're barking up the wrong tree entirely if you think you're going to "improve" an MX5 by heavily modding it.Interesting replies so far. Especially the ones saying don't do too much. A refresh, better brakes, rubber, bushes, dampers then power was my line of thought. It would be good to have it capable on track for once a year. Bust mostly for road fun.
If you want a fast car, go buy a fast car. MX5s are about FUN. They're a hoot to drive with little or no mods.
The most fun i've had out of any of them was in a standard mk1 1.6 with no aircon or electric windows.
Paddy_N_Murphy said:
lot to be said in this.
Got my MK1 back in my hands after 3 years or charging around in my 997.
Yes. Power in the Pork, but the MX5 is 'fun' without it, and the two mods I did I almost regret - Polybushes (makes it crash / noisy at times over crappy roads) and Dual Exhaust (love the looks, a little noise welcome, but certainly a little weary at times)
Simple / Straight forward is best.
Buy the best rust free you can, would make the best long term smile / mile ratio and potentially even end up being a zero cost ownership in due course.
A scabby car modded is the equivalent of 'Galloping - but in the wrong direction'
Agree on the exhaust. I think I mentioned this on previous post. The standard engine set up sounds a little flat in my opinion and it doesn't necessarily encourage neck wringing. I liked my custom exhaust set up on my last MX5 and it had some sort of induction kit and sounded about right, not too loud but a nice snarl. I've been in many four cyclinder cars that sound alwful with loud exhausts though. It's a delicate balance but if/when I get another MX5, I'll definitely not be keen on keeping the noise standard. Wonder what one sound like on standardish exhaust but on throttle bodies....Got my MK1 back in my hands after 3 years or charging around in my 997.
Yes. Power in the Pork, but the MX5 is 'fun' without it, and the two mods I did I almost regret - Polybushes (makes it crash / noisy at times over crappy roads) and Dual Exhaust (love the looks, a little noise welcome, but certainly a little weary at times)
Simple / Straight forward is best.
Buy the best rust free you can, would make the best long term smile / mile ratio and potentially even end up being a zero cost ownership in due course.
A scabby car modded is the equivalent of 'Galloping - but in the wrong direction'
On the rust thing, I'm in two minds on best approach to this. There probably is the odd genuinely rust free gem out there but if the owner knows this, they fetch proper money. I'd be tempted to try to find a cheap, mechanically sound, rusty one and get a reputable repairer to go to work on it. The bill could reach £1k+ but that might still represent a lower overall spend and you'll absolutely know it is then right underneath and can keep on top of it.
The problem with 'rust free' examples is that it isn't that hard to sort exterior rust and hide problems underneath. Learnt that the hard way.
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