Subtle watch, up to £4k

[BrabusMog]

I am starting a new role shortly which is worlds apart from the current environment in which I work as I'll be working face to face with new clients. As such, my bi metal sub and AP ROO Chrono aren't going to be suitable to wear in my opinion.

I'm looking for something subtle around the £4k mark.

The only thing the watch has to have is a steel bracelet as I already have future plans for something on leather but it's a few years off yet. Omega Planet Ocean is out as the only one I like is the orange bezel/leather combo which would defeat the purpose of a new watch in terms of what I'm looking for.

I like the TAG Heuer Grand Carerra Calibre 17 but my dad has the black face and my cousin also has the White face model.

I'm really struggling to find something I like. I do like the Panerai's on steel but I don't think it would comfortably go under a cuff.

So, if you were looking around this price and had this criteria, what would you look at?

Cheers.

[bristolbaron]

Jaeger Reverso? Great subtle choice for under a suit. With the others you've mentioned maybe too subtle, but had to give it a mention.

http://www.watchfinder.co.uk/Jaeger%20Le%20Coultre...

[Mattt]

IWC?

http://watchfinder.co.uk/IWC/Aquatimer/IW376710/22...

[mikial]

IWC would be the one I would favour.

[BrabusMog]

I'm not keen on the bracelet on the Reverso, not sure I'd pull the face off either but it is a nice watch. Diver IWC is nice if the bezel was one colour. No leather straps, although the face is ok on the second IWC.

The Reverso got me thinking slightly outside the box and I'm now looking at Cartier Santos', White face, steel bracelet. Would look good for smart and casual.

[PJ S]

Grand Seiko, Auto or Spring Drive?
SBGA011 - aka the Snowflake - but it's titanium, not steel.
Still, you wont find a nicer face oozing elegance and subtlety.

[Riff Raff]

Does it have to have a date complication? If not, then a Rolex Explorer. It's a pretty classy understated watch, IMVHO.

[obob]

PJ S said:

Grand Seiko, Auto or Spring Drive?
SBGA011 - aka the Snowflake - but it's titanium, not steel.
Still, you wont find a nicer face oozing elegance and subtlety.

Yes the Snowflake, pictures never do it justice.

[tuffer]

BrabusMog said:

I'm not keen on the bracelet on the Reverso, not sure I'd pull the face off either but it is a nice watch. Diver IWC is nice if the bezel was one colour. No leather straps, although the face is ok on the second IWC.

The Reverso got me thinking slightly outside the box and I'm now looking at Cartier Santos', White face, steel bracelet. Would look good for smart and casual.

Get an IWC Pilot on a bracelet, job jobbed.

[The GMan]

You could always look at a 40mm Panarai if concerned about fit under a shirt cuff?

Maybe not the one I've posted as has no papers, but you get the idea.

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/PAM00050_S12281...

Just to add I've got a 45.5mm PO orange bezel and orange leather. I bought it as a summer watch then bought the orange rubber strap to use when diving. Wore it for work a few times when I noticed my Submariner starting to get scratched. Just didn't look right with a suit so I swapped strap again for black rubber with orange stitching. Looks great in my opinion now and I rotate between the 2 watches.

[CardShark]

A Bremont Supermarine on a bracelet comes up just about on budget, for a few £ more the ALT1-C is also on the cards. Both watches can be worn with either rubber or leather as well so you could chop and change should you wish.

[TheJimi]

Unless I'm missing something, the criteria is kinda bizarre. I mean, bracelets & straps are very changeable, therefore it's surely quite odd to be so inflexible in that regard?

The rationale gjven is also pretty bizarre - buying a £4k watch so that you don't appear a certain way to certain people?

Edit: I reckon a Grand Seiko of some description would be the perfect under-the-radar "serious" watch.

Edited by TheJimi on Saturday 25th May 22:35

[Oelholm]

How about some sort of Omega Aqua Terra? The Skyfall one, perhaps?

[BrabusMog]

Aqua Terra looks nice, I'm going into town shortly and will take a closer look.

I don't like/can't be arsed with swapping bracelets/strapped, I'd rather just have a steel bracelet.

Do Bremont make their own movements?

[CardShark]

BrabusMog said:

Do Bremont make their own movements?

Modified ETAs IIRC, though I think that they intend on making their own in the future.

[geezerbutler]

Yep - Bremont use modified COSC certified ETA movements. Not sure Bremont would be the best choice as most of the watches are on straps not bracelets.

Maybe IWC Spitfire:

http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/steel_iwc_pilot...

Breitling Transocean:

http://www.thewatchgallery.co.uk/shop/breitling-tr...

As said above Explorer I might be nice if you can do without a date function

[BrabusMog]

I thought I needed a date function but now I'm not so sure as I just tried on a Seamaster moon watch and it was on a leather strap FFS! Has changed my mind about leather as well, I think. It looked like a good all rounder, especially as I was in jeans and Vans - going to go back in a shirt to see how it looks under the cuff on Wednesday.

I like the Explorer, especially with a White face but I'm not so sure I could get one in budget and I really am sticking rigidly to £4k.

[BrabusMog]

Not a fan of the Transocean, if I was getting a Breitling it would have to be a vintage Top Time.

[HarrySmash]

How about the Omega Seamaster Chrono Diver, with a black (rather than the usual blue) face? Smart looking, meets the brief and at £2,600 before discount you'll be left with a nice sum to put towards your next watch purchase.

[BrabusMog]

It's a great looking watch but I hate the bracelet it's on! If it was on an oyster bracelet I think it would be a front-runner but I can't stand that little shiny bit on the edge of the middle links.