another dreamer wondering about costs?
Discussion
sorry, forgot to mention tyres/fuel etc. The car is insured with Richard Egger as a competition car (not covered on events though!) for £325.00 (car is Group 16), this also alows for any mods made to the car which many std policies don't like. Fitted new tyres before my 1st event & as the distance driven competitively amounts to literally a few miles tyre wear is negligible as is fuel use really. The further you drive to events the higher the cost but I plan to stick to events within 1.5-2hrs drive. I have been told that stickier tyres (List B apparently) would make 2 secs faster but this opened up a big can of worms on another thread so maybe best avoided! I am now debating on whether to make a few mods within MSA regs to make the car slightly more competitive (its not far off anyway) or keep it std, save the money & just have some fun! I found everybody very helpful & friendly from fellow PHers to my local Motor Club (Woolbridge) who I rang a few times for advice to fellow competitors at the event. Don't be put off - just do it, you can always change the car or move onto a different type of racing once you have the bug (which you will)!!!
car 1500
cage 650
fire ex 300
seat 250
harness 150
misc car prep 250
Total (a) 3100
suit 350
helmet 350
boots 100
gloves 100
total (c) 900
Non essentials
suspension 500
poly bushes 100
decat exhaust 125
silicone hoses 250
big discs 150
pads 50
engine mount 120
engine mount 2 55
induction kit 125
tyres 250
Total (b) 1725
total(a+b) 4825
Total (a+b+c) 5725
this is something i have knocked up whilst looking at the CSCC tintops championship. the £1500 car assumes something like a MG ZR which are widely available and reasonably easy to strip and bulid. other options include a Clio 172, 306 GTI6, Zetec-S Fiesta etc.... on top of that, championship registration is £100 and race entry fees are £300 for 40 minute race (and 20 minute qualifying).
personally, i think its good value and they are getting good grids. the entries are a good mixed bag too.
cage 650
fire ex 300
seat 250
harness 150
misc car prep 250
Total (a) 3100
suit 350
helmet 350
boots 100
gloves 100
total (c) 900
Non essentials
suspension 500
poly bushes 100
decat exhaust 125
silicone hoses 250
big discs 150
pads 50
engine mount 120
engine mount 2 55
induction kit 125
tyres 250
Total (b) 1725
total(a+b) 4825
Total (a+b+c) 5725
this is something i have knocked up whilst looking at the CSCC tintops championship. the £1500 car assumes something like a MG ZR which are widely available and reasonably easy to strip and bulid. other options include a Clio 172, 306 GTI6, Zetec-S Fiesta etc.... on top of that, championship registration is £100 and race entry fees are £300 for 40 minute race (and 20 minute qualifying).
personally, i think its good value and they are getting good grids. the entries are a good mixed bag too.
Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 1st May 18:07
pablo said:
car 1500
dont forget to factor in a full engine and gearbox rebuild after it lets you down after the first race !!!if its going straight from a road car to a racer.. you'll also probably need to do a full suspension and brake rebuild pdq as well...
it also ends up costing loads more to convert your own car than it does to buy an existing racer.. there are loads of small bits that add cost.
its always cheaper to buy an existing racer, and prefereably from parc ferme after its just one the championship... (i.e. before it goes back to the workshop and all the good bits get replaced!!!)
In just about every series I've had involvment with there is also a huge difference in the cost to get on the grid, and the cost to get on the front of the grid.. not that it cant be done, or that you cant have a lot of fun at the back or mid pack. but if your aim is to be at the front, cost calculations quickly spiral... engines become consumables, tyre budgets go up, and dont forget the cost of testing.. which in a close series is vital..
The other problem is once you've started its impossible to stop!!!!!
Edited by Graham on Tuesday 11th May 11:24
Graham said:
pablo said:
car 1500
dont forget to factor in a full engine and gearbox rebuild after it lets you down after the first race !!!if its going straight from a road car to a racer.. you'll also probably need to do a full suspension and brake rebuild pdq as well...
it also ends up costing loads more to convert your own car than it does to buy an existing racer.. there are loads of small bits that add cost.
its always cheaper to buy an existing racer, and prefereably from parc ferme after its just one the championship... (i.e. before it goes back to the workshop and all the good bits get replaced!!!)
In just about every series I've had involvment with there is also a huge difference in the cost to get on the grid, and the cost to get on the front of the grid.. not that it cant be done, or that you cant have a lot of fun at the back or mid pack. but if your aim is to be at the front, cost calculations quickly spiral... engines become consumables, tyre budgets go up, and dont forget the cost of testing.. which in a close series is vital..
The other problem is once you've started its impossible to stop!!!!!
Edited by Graham on Tuesday 11th May 11:24
yes its cheaper to buy a ready built racer but when your father has just retired and you have a bit of cash and have always wanted to have your "own" racing car, well, why not?!?!
pablo said:
well, yes and no. i would rather be at the back of the grid than not be on it at all. if it means running stock engine then so be it. my aim is to go motor racing, always has been, not to win the championship. I know my budget and what i can get for it. far too many people are so afraid of coming last that they just sit there and dont do anything but think "i wonder what its like to be a racing driver....".
yes its cheaper to buy a ready built racer but when your father has just retired and you have a bit of cash and have always wanted to have your "own" racing car, well, why not?!?!
Thats cool, as long as your aware of that its fine, Its just that I've seen people get frustrated at the back of the pack when their 1500 quid machine cant beat the same car at the front thats got 20k invested in its engine..yes its cheaper to buy a ready built racer but when your father has just retired and you have a bit of cash and have always wanted to have your "own" racing car, well, why not?!?!
I'm in the middle of building my 3rd race car so know exactly whats involved in building one !!! and how frustrating it can be, I also generally go up against people with much bigger budgets so it certainly is possible to beat the money if your carefull, its just a lot harder..
As long as your realistic about what you want to do thats great. nothing wrong with being at the back and having fun, but if your expecting to win on a tight budget its easy to get disollusioned and give up the sport... go into it with your eyes open and just enjoy what ever level your at..
Best of luck
G
What usually happens is people don't factor in the cost of everything required to either build a race car from scratch or convert a road car into a racer. They often start out thinking they can build a nice car cheaper than someone's existing race car is offered for sale, then when they've spent £2,000 on nuts, bolts, spacers and rose joints alone, none of which was in the budget, the penny (or is it pounds?) starts to drop.
It is however tremendously satisfying building your own car and you can make it exactly how YOU want it. I really enjoyed building mine, although there were of course times when I would cheerfully have torched the thing (if I could have beaten my wife to it!)
It is however tremendously satisfying building your own car and you can make it exactly how YOU want it. I really enjoyed building mine, although there were of course times when I would cheerfully have torched the thing (if I could have beaten my wife to it!)
too right my last bill from the nut and bolt supplier was just over a grand... and I need to order some more !!!!, the spacers for the rose joints came to a few hundred quid on their own...
The other thing about building your own car is when you end up doing the same thing 2-3 times grrr, or when the easy bits that are supposed to fit together with no problem prove to be a nightmare...
The other thing about building your own car is when you end up doing the same thing 2-3 times grrr, or when the easy bits that are supposed to fit together with no problem prove to be a nightmare...
Lol, I couldn't agree more with the last few posts. We have just come back from our first meeting with our car. We hve been building it over the last 9 months and its amazing how much its cost (I did keep track dispite the advice not to)
For example, We made the wiring loom ourselves but that was over £400 for just wire and connectors
Buying a ready to race car is easier and cheaper but me being me id of probably partly stripped it to check it over, then gone the wholehog and refurb'd everything.
But the enjoyment of the race made it worth every penny.
For example, We made the wiring loom ourselves but that was over £400 for just wire and connectors
Buying a ready to race car is easier and cheaper but me being me id of probably partly stripped it to check it over, then gone the wholehog and refurb'd everything.
But the enjoyment of the race made it worth every penny.
roddo said:
mrcnc53 said:
Go and watch some races/championships and talk to the drivers.
You'r very welcome to join me and the Max5 racing guys at any of our rounds. Ask as many questions as you like, get a feel for what its all about etc. We can help you with your race licence and even hire you a car for a day if you like.....http://www.max5racing.com/
All the best
Paul
- other championships are avaiable etc etc
As previously said you need to go to a few events and check them out, if you have no previous experience then I would enter either an Autosolo or Sprint event. The Autosolo requires no licence & overalls but gives a great insight into competition, you'll meet some great people and it's very cheap, £30 odd quid for the day.
I do sprints & hillclimbs but I have as much fun on an Autosolo and there are now championships to go for too. I've not done 'door handle' racing but having the track to yourself is great for learning on.
I would spend a season building up some driving and car experience on several different events to see what suits you.
Have fun
Dave
I do sprints & hillclimbs but I have as much fun on an Autosolo and there are now championships to go for too. I've not done 'door handle' racing but having the track to yourself is great for learning on.
I would spend a season building up some driving and car experience on several different events to see what suits you.
Have fun
Dave
andye30m3 said:
Why not just sprint the rover in the road going production up to 1400cc class.
OK so there's no wheel to wheel racing but prep cost will be almost nothing, all you'll need is:
a national B race license which doesn't require an ards test do save a few hundred pounds
A fire proof race overall
An appropriate crash helmet
Fire proof gloves
in the road going class all that is mandatory for car preparation is a timing strut, the battery earth marked in yellow and a sticker on the ignition showing which way off is.
I expect I've missed something but it really is a cheap way to get a car on track.
just done this myself, Nat.B License was £37.00 IIRC, entry fees for hillclimb about £70-80 per event (I guess sprints will be similar?), tyre wear etc minimal due to very short distances involved, that is also a downside only having 50-60secs x 4 per event but its still a hell of a buzz & for a fraction of the cost probably! The other main advantage for me in the South West is there are several speed events within 2hrs whereas circuit racing would probably entail far more travelling (& accommodation costs?). I drive to & from events in the same car as I compete so distance is a consideration for me. Whatever you end up doing, good luck & enjoy yourself!OK so there's no wheel to wheel racing but prep cost will be almost nothing, all you'll need is:
a national B race license which doesn't require an ards test do save a few hundred pounds
A fire proof race overall
An appropriate crash helmet
Fire proof gloves
in the road going class all that is mandatory for car preparation is a timing strut, the battery earth marked in yellow and a sticker on the ignition showing which way off is.
I expect I've missed something but it really is a cheap way to get a car on track.
indigorallye said:
The costs which come after car preparation are quite significant and soon add up-
suit 350
boots 70
gloves 30
helmet 200
vest 35
go racing pack 50
ards 250
licence 50
club membership ?
My first race costs:
entry 300 double header
fuel 45 race car
fuel 30 tow car
food 15
Then there is stuff like tyres, brakes, oil and filter changes, brake fluid, and in my case repairing a blown head gasket!
Regrets? None!
I am now trying to save up and buy an exBTCC 306! I assume it's yours Andy?
This seems a bit excessive to me. It could be done a whole lot cheaper, suit 350
boots 70
gloves 30
helmet 200
vest 35
go racing pack 50
ards 250
licence 50
club membership ?
My first race costs:
entry 300 double header
fuel 45 race car
fuel 30 tow car
food 15
Then there is stuff like tyres, brakes, oil and filter changes, brake fluid, and in my case repairing a blown head gasket!
Regrets? None!
I am now trying to save up and buy an exBTCC 306! I assume it's yours Andy?
Food £15
Bacon roll £2
£13 saving instantly
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