Common issues to look for

[cpszx]

Are there any common issues, faults, remedials that i should be looking for when viewing a car?

Any chassis or mounting weak points that crack or deform that will need repair?

Any pipes or cables that rub or chafe that need sleeving or rerouting?

Any bushes or bearings that wear unexpectedly?

I would want to see where previous owners may have neglected something, or fixed/upgraded something that is a known issue. Or just not been aware.

Thanks
Craig

[T-Rev]

Having owned the first factory built GTR for 15 years now, I would suggest that there are very few 'known' issues to look out for?
Much will depend on what age/spec Ultima you are looking to buy? The older the car, the more likely you are to find potential issues which are relatively easy to resolve, so for example but not limited to...
As with any older car, be prepared to have to tinker with the electrics as the electrical connectors can dry out or corrode?
The earlier Ultima Image rims are lightweight and can leak air on the beads as there is no bead seat and the dishes can spread?
Both the Image and Oz split rims can click, indicating the bolts are not tight enough?
The coolant pipes within the side pods can corrode and leak?
The nylatron suspension bushes can dry out and/or the sleeves get wet and corroded which can cause the suspension to squeak?
If the car has been used on track, check the rear lower suspension arm mounting tabs on the chassis?
As with any used car, take the time to thoroughly inspect it or engage a specialist to do it for you.
As no two Ultima's are the same, the build quality should be a priority.
Check all documented history - most will have a build history file of some description.
I'm not going to mention engines and transmissions as there are too many options - so it will depend on the spec you're looking for?
Good luck!

[SimonLM]

That’s really helpful advice mate, did you build yours your self ?

Are you UK based ?

[cpszx]

Thanks T-Rev, that's really helpful. Things that a non owner may not even know about.
Things that enthusiasts and owners of any marque and model always know when they have been involved for a while.

Coolant pipes within the side pods is a great example of what i mean.
What can you do if the bush sleeves are too corroded to replace bushes?
What happens to the lower arm mounting tabs under heavy use?

Unfortunately, the factory do not have capacity for the vehicle check service at the moment, and being new to the scene, i don't know anyone who i can ask to come along for a viewing.
But if i do need some help or advice, i would certainly ask here if anyone would be able to accompany me if local.

I don't think i am too concerned with spec at the moment, other than something with injection as i don't like carb.
But i don't know if certain engines have specific issues like overheating, oil starvation, etc.

T-Rev said:

Having owned the first factory built GTR for 15 years now, I would suggest that there are very few 'known' issues to look out for?
Much will depend on what age/spec Ultima you are looking to buy? The older the car, the more likely you are to find potential issues which are relatively easy to resolve, so for example but not limited to...
As with any older car, be prepared to have to tinker with the electrics as the electrical connectors can dry out or corrode?
The earlier Ultima Image rims are lightweight and can leak air on the beads as there is no bead seat and the dishes can spread?
Both the Image and Oz split rims can click, indicating the bolts are not tight enough?
The coolant pipes within the side pods can corrode and leak?
The nylatron suspension bushes can dry out and/or the sleeves get wet and corroded which can cause the suspension to squeak?
If the car has been used on track, check the rear lower suspension arm mounting tabs on the chassis?
As with any used car, take the time to thoroughly inspect it or engage a specialist to do it for you.
As no two Ultima's are the same, the build quality should be a priority.
Check all documented history - most will have a build history file of some description.
I'm not going to mention engines and transmissions as there are too many options - so it will depend on the spec you're looking for?
Good luck!

[deadscoob]

Re the lower rear wishbone tabs, it’s also affected cars that have been on rolling roads and strapped down too tightly.

The bush sleeves come with the bush set. Fairly cheap to buy a set from the factory and dead easy to replace.

Under the clams gives a good idea of how well they’ve been looked after. Condition is everything with these and I’d rather buy one with decent mileage than very low, will usually mean any niggles have been ironed out.

[GTRMikie]

T-Rev said:

The coolant pipes within the side pods can corrode and leak?!

Have your coolant pipes leaked?

[cpszx]

deadscoob said:

Re the lower rear wishbone tabs, it’s also affected cars that have been on rolling roads and strapped down too tightly.

The bush sleeves come with the bush set. Fairly cheap to buy a set from the factory and dead easy to replace.

Under the clams gives a good idea of how well they’ve been looked after. Condition is everything with these and I’d rather buy one with decent mileage than very low, will usually mean any niggles have been ironed out.

Thanks deadscoob.

Regarding the decent mileage vs low mileage having had niggles/issues ironed out, i have come across that type of thing before with other vehicles where low miles does not always mean a good car. It's something that is often overlooked when looking for cars in the first place, good reminder, thanks.

Seeing very few for sale currently though, it does mean options are limited, hence this thread in the first place.

e.g. maybe finding a car that needs a little work, or has less obvious faults to look into first.

[T-Rev]

Coolant pipes within the side pods is a great example of what i mean.
- Mine haven't corroded or leaked in the side pods, but the ends in the engine bag have corroded, so I've had to fit longer hoses!
What can you do if the bush sleeves are too corroded to replace bushes?
- As already mentioned, you can buy new complete bush kits which include the sleeves.
What happens to the lower arm mounting tabs under heavy use?
- The rear lower suspension mounting tabs on the chassis can crack and even break - the factory do have a solution which is to install an additional webbed mounting over the original, which I have done on mine.

Best of luck.

[GTRMikie]

T-Rev said:

Coolant pipes within the side pods is a great example of what i mean.
- Mine haven't corroded or leaked in the side pods, but the ends in the engine bag have corroded, so I've had to fit longer hoses!.

Early GTRs, like yours and mine, have steel coolant pipes which I always thought could be a problem, I must check mine next time I do a coolant change. Hopefully it is only the ends that corrode. Later models have alloy pipes. Changing the pipes would be a major job!

[T-Rev]

SimonLM said:

That’s really helpful advice mate, did you build yours your self ?

Are you UK based ?

Hi Simon,
My GTR is the very first factory built GTR used as a prototype and demonstrator, the one that featured in the GTR brochure, various publications and on Top Gear back in 2000.
Full details are still available on my old web site at www.trevorwillardracing.co.uk or on my FB page at https://www.facebook.com/trevor.willard.14/ (you'll need to send me a friend request to view).
Would love to have built one, but work and family commitments prevented that at the time, so after around 2 years of consideration and searching I purchased my rather unique GTR privately back in 2007.
Yes I am UK (South East) based.
Cheers,
Trevor

[T-Rev]

GTRMikie said:

T-Rev said:

Coolant pipes within the side pods is a great example of what i mean.
- Mine haven't corroded or leaked in the side pods, but the ends in the engine bag have corroded, so I've had to fit longer hoses!.

Early GTRs, like yours and mine, have steel coolant pipes which I always thought could be a problem, I must check mine next time I do a coolant change. Hopefully it is only the ends that corrode. Later models have alloy pipes. Changing the pipes would be a major job!

Yes, changing the pipes would be a complete PITA with full strip down and rebuild - though having considered this issue, it 'may' be possible to line the inside of the pipes with hose or even resin??? I'm sure an alternative solution to a full strip down 'could' be found if needed?

Personally, I'd love to change the fuel tanks (with tanks directly behind the luggage boxes) and move the coolant radiator(s) into the rear engine bay / side pods and do away with using the cockpit as a cooling device or rather a sauna in the summer months???

[GTRMikie]

T-Rev said:

Yes, changing the pipes would be a complete PITA with full strip down and rebuild - though having considered this issue, it 'may' be possible to line the inside of the pipes with hose or even resin??? I'm sure an alternative solution to a full strip down 'could' be found if needed??

I like the idea of lining the pipes with hose. If the correct size could be found in silicone rubber that just fitted, it could easily be fed down the tubes.