engine balancing

engine balancing

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Discussion

xrtim

Original Poster:

248 posts

108 months

Sunday 13th November 2016
quotequote all
Engine is close to being assembled, a few parts have yet to be decided upon and then need to balance the assembly. I have read a few articles about Vibration Free in Oxon and am going to get the engine balanced there. Has anyone had any experience of there work ?
Regards Tim

xrtim

Original Poster:

248 posts

108 months

Monday 14th November 2016
quotequote all
engine is now 4.8l LS, decided to up the RPM capability of the engine and reduce the torque for the gearbox with the turbo's (turbo's may be a bit large now as originally specified for 5.3l)

New block 4.8/5.3 Iron
New OEM Cast crank 3.268
Eagle H Steel Rods + L13 bolts 6.300
Wiseco 3.780 forged Pistons
Total Seal Gapless Stainless rings (suitable for boost)
Commetic head Gaskets
Trick Flow 215cnc Heads
Comp Gold Roller Rockers
Clevite H mains and rod bearings

Havn't made my mind up on
ARP Head Studs
Johnsons link bar Lifters
Manton Pushrods
Cloyes Hex Adjust timing set
Comp cam 279/279, Lift .600/.600 116 LSA
2 piece timing cover

Engine will be built and checked before balancing,




xrtim

Original Poster:

248 posts

108 months

Wednesday 16th November 2016
quotequote all
top rings are gapless so only have 8 second rings to check, bought a ring filing tool from Summit so should be OK, but I like the idea of the tile saw (which I already have). just had a quick weigh of the Wiseco piston set and only found a variation of 1.29g from the lightest to the heaviest which works out roughly 1/3 of a sheet of A3 paper,pins are even better 0.13 (weighed them with the plastic wrappers on so probably all the same) very impressive

xrtim

Original Poster:

248 posts

108 months

Thursday 15th December 2016
quotequote all
Gaped all the rings today despite wasting time with the Summit manual ring gaping tool (1 1/2 hours for .2mm removed, no good for stainless rings) modified my tile saw with a 250mm porcelain continuous rim diamond blade. Worked very well,I found that I could remove metal just by turning the blade shaft by hand. Changing the 24 tooth reluctor ring for a 58 tomorrow and starting the dry build of the engine. With a bit of luck I should be at the balancers for the new year.
Merry Christmas

xrtim

Original Poster:

248 posts

108 months

Monday 19th December 2016
quotequote all
Good progress, crank,rods,pistons,cam and timing chain installed (not fitted on picture). Spent remainder of the day trying to find my degree wheel with no success, will have to get a new one today or print one from the internet. Reluctor wheel change was surprisingly easy, tap the old one off noting alignment position, heat new wheel on gas hob (3 mins for me), place on crank and align, job done