Pics of wall mounted tv/av set up please
Discussion
plumAJP said:
guys how is the 2nd picture from the bottom acheived?
I want no wires visible but how have the power wires for the wii and ps3 been routed? theres no power source in sight and i cant see any fascia plates or plug point?
It looks very neat and I want a similar instalation on a floating shelf. Hmdi's, ethernets etc will be sunk into the wall and poke through a brush plate at the rear of the TV. PS3 and media player will be on a floating shelf below the TV but how do i get the wires into the wall from these devices to look so discrete and stealth like the picture. ideally i dont want to see a brush plate or wall socket.
Thanks in advance.
Here's a pic for you of work done for a customer (before the ducts/conduits were nailed into place), it was a basic TV wall mount and lounge refurb, there is twin cables for Sky, TV aerial, duct for HDMI cables and a power supply. We chased, installed ducts and cables then they had a plaster patch in, once decorated no cables and you wouldn't know anyone had been near it! The ring main was extended for the power supply but theres nothing really wrong with a spur if you do it properly, I'd normally recommend installing a switch fused spur at low level on the ring main then out to the TV position as you can then turn the supply to TV off easily.I want no wires visible but how have the power wires for the wii and ps3 been routed? theres no power source in sight and i cant see any fascia plates or plug point?
It looks very neat and I want a similar instalation on a floating shelf. Hmdi's, ethernets etc will be sunk into the wall and poke through a brush plate at the rear of the TV. PS3 and media player will be on a floating shelf below the TV but how do i get the wires into the wall from these devices to look so discrete and stealth like the picture. ideally i dont want to see a brush plate or wall socket.
Thanks in advance.
The double socket was because they also had a sound bar mounted under the TV.. so something else to consider! Sound bars are great if you buy a decent high end one, you can easily mount on a TV bracket with special brackets or mount to the wall.
Also emphasises the importance of the ducts... they could add cables in the future as they had no real idea what they wanted at the time of installation.
I think the height depends on the screen.
I hate LCD unless it is directly in front of you, otherwise the picture tends to be crap, but with plasma it comes down to personal choice.
I tend to lie down watching TV and so my natural eye line is very high,
This picture is from 10 years ago now, when I first moved into this place......
It was the most comfy position I have had TV wise, slump on the sofa and your eyeline is bang in the middle of the screen.
This was in my music room, probably more like regular height, but no where near as comfy to view....
I hate LCD unless it is directly in front of you, otherwise the picture tends to be crap, but with plasma it comes down to personal choice.
I tend to lie down watching TV and so my natural eye line is very high,
This picture is from 10 years ago now, when I first moved into this place......
It was the most comfy position I have had TV wise, slump on the sofa and your eyeline is bang in the middle of the screen.
This was in my music room, probably more like regular height, but no where near as comfy to view....
MrSparks said:
Here's a pic for you of work done for a customer (before the ducts/conduits were nailed into place), it was a basic TV wall mount and lounge refurb, there is twin cables for Sky, TV aerial, duct for HDMI cables and a power supply. We chased, installed ducts and cables then they had a plaster patch in, once decorated no cables and you wouldn't know anyone had been near it! The ring main was extended for the power supply but theres nothing really wrong with a spur if you do it properly, I'd normally recommend installing a switch fused spur at low level on the ring main then out to the TV position as you can then turn the supply to TV off easily.
The double socket was because they also had a sound bar mounted under the TV.. so something else to consider! Sound bars are great if you buy a decent high end one, you can easily mount on a TV bracket with special brackets or mount to the wall.
Also emphasises the importance of the ducts... they could add cables in the future as they had no real idea what they wanted at the time of installation.
I like what you have done sparks. The double socket was because they also had a sound bar mounted under the TV.. so something else to consider! Sound bars are great if you buy a decent high end one, you can easily mount on a TV bracket with special brackets or mount to the wall.
Also emphasises the importance of the ducts... they could add cables in the future as they had no real idea what they wanted at the time of installation.
We are redecorating, and want the tv to be 'floating', so am looking to run two hdmi cables, a socket, and Ariel lead in. It needs to be similar to the routing you have done on the picture.
What are you doing for the hdmi? Ducting and a hole top and bottom, with two had hdmi cables in, then say 1\2 metre showing at top and bottom to plug in? Or is it better to buy hdmi wall plates that I have seen? With the wall plates, I am guessing six separate hdmi leads though (two from sky etc to wall, two up the wall, then two to the tv) so is it easier to have just two cable going into the wall (hidden by floor cabinets), which then come out behind the tv?
I think I will need to get a sparky in to run a socket up to behind the tv, and an Ariel would be relatively easy going out through the wall, and externally up, and back in behind the tv.
Any help would be appreciated on what you, or anyone else would say is best.
Cheers.
Trax said:
MrSparks said:
Here's a pic for you of work done for a customer (before the ducts/conduits were nailed into place), it was a basic TV wall mount and lounge refurb, there is twin cables for Sky, TV aerial, duct for HDMI cables and a power supply. We chased, installed ducts and cables then they had a plaster patch in, once decorated no cables and you wouldn't know anyone had been near it! The ring main was extended for the power supply but theres nothing really wrong with a spur if you do it properly, I'd normally recommend installing a switch fused spur at low level on the ring main then out to the TV position as you can then turn the supply to TV off easily.
The double socket was because they also had a sound bar mounted under the TV.. so something else to consider! Sound bars are great if you buy a decent high end one, you can easily mount on a TV bracket with special brackets or mount to the wall.
Also emphasises the importance of the ducts... they could add cables in the future as they had no real idea what they wanted at the time of installation.
I like what you have done sparks. The double socket was because they also had a sound bar mounted under the TV.. so something else to consider! Sound bars are great if you buy a decent high end one, you can easily mount on a TV bracket with special brackets or mount to the wall.
Also emphasises the importance of the ducts... they could add cables in the future as they had no real idea what they wanted at the time of installation.
We are redecorating, and want the tv to be 'floating', so am looking to run two hdmi cables, a socket, and Ariel lead in. It needs to be similar to the routing you have done on the picture.
What are you doing for the hdmi? Ducting and a hole top and bottom, with two had hdmi cables in, then say 1\2 metre showing at top and bottom to plug in? Or is it better to buy hdmi wall plates that I have seen? With the wall plates, I am guessing six separate hdmi leads though (two from sky etc to wall, two up the wall, then two to the tv) so is it easier to have just two cable going into the wall (hidden by floor cabinets), which then come out behind the tv?
I think I will need to get a sparky in to run a socket up to behind the tv, and an Ariel would be relatively easy going out through the wall, and externally up, and back in behind the tv.
Any help would be appreciated on what you, or anyone else would say is best.
Cheers.
I also do the same with the power, run the mains cable down a duct to a low level socket. You may need to buy a longer mains cable though.
Trax said:
I like what you have done sparks.
We are redecorating, and want the tv to be 'floating', so am looking to run two hdmi cables, a socket, and Ariel lead in. It needs to be similar to the routing you have done on the picture.
What are you doing for the hdmi? Ducting and a hole top and bottom, with two had hdmi cables in, then say 1\2 metre showing at top and bottom to plug in? Or is it better to buy hdmi wall plates that I have seen? With the wall plates, I am guessing six separate hdmi leads though (two from sky etc to wall, two up the wall, then two to the tv) so is it easier to have just two cable going into the wall (hidden by floor cabinets), which then come out behind the tv?
I think I will need to get a sparky in to run a socket up to behind the tv, and an Ariel would be relatively easy going out through the wall, and externally up, and back in behind the tv.
Any help would be appreciated on what you, or anyone else would say is best.
Cheers.
As per megaphone, don't bother with HDMI wall plates if you can help it.. they have their uses, but not behind a TV that's for sure. I remember installing a flush TV for a customer and I used a shiney nice multi port plate with 2 x HDMI on it and female connetors on the rear.. had to take out half the wall behind the dot and dab plaster just to get the bloody cables to fit. I would advice to use brush plates plastic/metal etc variety of sizes/shapes/types avaialable. That way you cut down on HDMi cables and connections also. Less connections the better with HDMI. We are redecorating, and want the tv to be 'floating', so am looking to run two hdmi cables, a socket, and Ariel lead in. It needs to be similar to the routing you have done on the picture.
What are you doing for the hdmi? Ducting and a hole top and bottom, with two had hdmi cables in, then say 1\2 metre showing at top and bottom to plug in? Or is it better to buy hdmi wall plates that I have seen? With the wall plates, I am guessing six separate hdmi leads though (two from sky etc to wall, two up the wall, then two to the tv) so is it easier to have just two cable going into the wall (hidden by floor cabinets), which then come out behind the tv?
I think I will need to get a sparky in to run a socket up to behind the tv, and an Ariel would be relatively easy going out through the wall, and externally up, and back in behind the tv.
Any help would be appreciated on what you, or anyone else would say is best.
Cheers.
In the above picture the far left duct is for HDMI. It's just a 32mm (if I remember rightly) conduit between two boxes. This was all plastered and decorated with no cables in then the HDMI etc cables were added afterwards and can easily be changed/added to in the future.
I would chase the aerial cable up the wall in the same manner as the power and HDMI if I were you, ideally in conduits between boxes so that you can pull down them in future if you need to. Keep power and data seperate.
stove by pdrawmer, on Flickr
AV setup 2 by pdrawmer, on Flickr
AV setup by pdrawmer, on Flickr
Two bookcases 5ft high and 4ft wide. PLus one I made for the LH speaker and the Sub.
The TV is mounted on a swivel wall bracket (that bit of the shelf unit is backless, and I painted the wall behind it chocolate brown) so that it can be pulled out and turned either way.
There's a plastic square conduit on top of the skirting which takes the ethernet feeds for the amp and the TV.
Two MS10i bookshelf speakers, one MS centre speaker under the TV and a Quake sub wired for both Audio sub and LFE.
I wanted to avoid a TV 'shrine' and the station manageress said get rid of the wires.
Simple and effective.
AV setup 2 by pdrawmer, on Flickr
AV setup by pdrawmer, on Flickr
Two bookcases 5ft high and 4ft wide. PLus one I made for the LH speaker and the Sub.
The TV is mounted on a swivel wall bracket (that bit of the shelf unit is backless, and I painted the wall behind it chocolate brown) so that it can be pulled out and turned either way.
There's a plastic square conduit on top of the skirting which takes the ethernet feeds for the amp and the TV.
Two MS10i bookshelf speakers, one MS centre speaker under the TV and a Quake sub wired for both Audio sub and LFE.
I wanted to avoid a TV 'shrine' and the station manageress said get rid of the wires.
Simple and effective.
I put together my setup based on ideas from AV-forums threads. My lounge is a well used space, and with a growing family, that is not going to give up anytime soon. As such, its not a dedicated home cinema room, but that did not put me off. In fact, having a super tidy install helped to prevent kids from prodding, poking and messing with things.
Here are some quick pics:
Just about make out the rears in this pic:
A poor shot of the whole setup:
Setup consists of a floating wall that allows me to hide some cables, and lots of power sockets hidden behind the units. I had the speaker cables for the rear speakers put in before the walls were plastered. Setup runs 5.1, Denon 3312 Amp, B&W 683 fronts, 685 rears, HTM 61 centre, ASW610XP sub, Samsung LED TV. The false wall has rope light round it for a bit of ambient light at night.
Here are some quick pics:
Just about make out the rears in this pic:
A poor shot of the whole setup:
Setup consists of a floating wall that allows me to hide some cables, and lots of power sockets hidden behind the units. I had the speaker cables for the rear speakers put in before the walls were plastered. Setup runs 5.1, Denon 3312 Amp, B&W 683 fronts, 685 rears, HTM 61 centre, ASW610XP sub, Samsung LED TV. The false wall has rope light round it for a bit of ambient light at night.
Agree with all the comments about height.....mate of mine has got his 42" screen mounted above his fireplace.....I'd guess the middle of the screen is something like 5' above floor level. It's way too high and I'll be honest I don't think the plasma screen replacing a picture/mirror above an old fashioned fireplace is a good look. His is on a bracked as it needs to be angled to give a decent viewing angle which makes it even worse!
Paul Drawmer said:
Too high is far worse than too low.
At least I have a choice:A bit lower than ideal, but better than having it stuck up in the window blocking the light, just stereo sound for day to day TV:
Raise it up for the full 7.2 sound:
Then the main reason that the TV is on a lift, so that it is hidden (and the centre speaker is unobstructed) for the important projector viewing:
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