55" OLED or 65" LED TV...
Discussion
Digitalize said:
I just personally don't see the point when already running an HDMI for video that can be used for both, especially in my case where I want the PS4 on Game mode to try and cut the input lag down and the rest on ISF.
Well, the point was that your TV doesn't handle CEC very well - this is a cheap and easy workaround but it's up to you I suppose.legzr1 said:
Well, the point was that your TV doesn't handle CEC very well - this is a cheap and easy workaround but it's up to you I suppose.
It doesn't handle CEC well when there's multiple devices coming from one input, but with the devices having their own inputs it should be fine. I want to keep using CEC because it's just a nice feature to have, especially where the 'Magic' remote and the Sky Q touch remote are so good I don't want to spend even more money on a Harmony.Digitalize said:
Yeah, you sit quite far away in a large room, I sit close in a small room.
But the point is, a calibrated screen is calibrated, that gives me correct settings, just finds it works better than having the OLED light low and the contrast high, don't then get fluctuations in luminance as scenes change. Sort of but not quite, our eyes will adjust to the ambient level of the room, so it needs to be calibrated with that in mind. A perfectly calibrated TV will only be relevant when the ambient conditions and thus your eyes are also correct. My monitors are calibrated for work but if I use them in dark conditions, or when the light is too warm then the work I produce will be wrong when viewed in my calibrated scenario. It's the entire reason calibrated will have an ambient sensor, so they can match brightness and colour warmth in relation to the viewing conditions.
You calibrate a TV to 120 cd/m2 of peak luminance, and that is based on viewing in a low lit or dark room.
You should be able to get a ruler flat greyscale, perfect 2.4 gamma curve and get it to meet Rec.709 colour standards if you set most decent displays to give 120 cd/m2.
If you go lower than that you will lose dynamic range, if you go higher you may get more pop but it will probably clip highlights and can tend to make every scene look like a bright July midday even if it is meant to look a bit dull and overcast.
But that really wasn't my point, my point was, it is an idea to try adjusting the OLED backlight and Contrast and see which works best. The OLEDs, like plasmas, have limiter to how much they can output and change the overall luminance if more than around 50% on screen is white, or bright. If you set the OLED higher and lower contrast this seems to reduce this happening.
Pause the TV on an advert with a big area of white, play with the two and you will see what I mean.
The negative of this however is go too high with it and the pixels almost 'bloom' and can make the image a bit softer, a bit like driving old CRT projectors too hard, much more punch but looked softer.
You should be able to get a ruler flat greyscale, perfect 2.4 gamma curve and get it to meet Rec.709 colour standards if you set most decent displays to give 120 cd/m2.
If you go lower than that you will lose dynamic range, if you go higher you may get more pop but it will probably clip highlights and can tend to make every scene look like a bright July midday even if it is meant to look a bit dull and overcast.
But that really wasn't my point, my point was, it is an idea to try adjusting the OLED backlight and Contrast and see which works best. The OLEDs, like plasmas, have limiter to how much they can output and change the overall luminance if more than around 50% on screen is white, or bright. If you set the OLED higher and lower contrast this seems to reduce this happening.
Pause the TV on an advert with a big area of white, play with the two and you will see what I mean.
The negative of this however is go too high with it and the pixels almost 'bloom' and can make the image a bit softer, a bit like driving old CRT projectors too hard, much more punch but looked softer.
Admittedly I've never calibrated a TV, and ironically whilst I've calibrated monitors for professional use it's pretty painless as the software does it all for you. Obviously the idea is to get it as close to reference as possible as that is what in theory all the content has been mastered at, and what they envision it to look like.
Still very much at the initial stage but I tend to find I like my image a little less saturated and a little softer than most, so that's sort of my starting point.
PS4 is another thing entirely as along with the TV's own settings it has a few options of its own that can alter how it looks, and putting some options together can throw it all off and make the picture far too dark without going and changing the TV, which is then different to say Sky Q.
Still very much at the initial stage but I tend to find I like my image a little less saturated and a little softer than most, so that's sort of my starting point.
PS4 is another thing entirely as along with the TV's own settings it has a few options of its own that can alter how it looks, and putting some options together can throw it all off and make the picture far too dark without going and changing the TV, which is then different to say Sky Q.
Digitalize said:
Admittedly I've never calibrated a TV, and ironically whilst I've calibrated monitors for professional use it's pretty painless as the software does it all for you. Obviously the idea is to get it as close to reference as possible as that is what in theory all the content has been mastered at, and what they envision it to look like.
Still very much at the initial stage but I tend to find I like my image a little less saturated and a little softer than most, so that's sort of my starting point.
PS4 is another thing entirely as along with the TV's own settings it has a few options of its own that can alter how it looks, and putting some options together can throw it all off and make the picture far too dark without going and changing the TV, which is then different to say Sky Q.
If you calibrate you monitor it is the same thing, problem with many auto calibration units is they can not always be the most accurate, I find it better to do it manually, it usually gets the gamma and greyscale right and will hit your target luminance, but nearly always get the colour slightly wrong, often a bit hot in the greens still and blues always tend to have a magenta sort of hue to them. Still very much at the initial stage but I tend to find I like my image a little less saturated and a little softer than most, so that's sort of my starting point.
PS4 is another thing entirely as along with the TV's own settings it has a few options of its own that can alter how it looks, and putting some options together can throw it all off and make the picture far too dark without going and changing the TV, which is then different to say Sky Q.
When that happens, I like you, tend to crank saturation down a bit as it hides a non perfect calibration.
Also, if you don't get the display to track gamma properly and get the display to hit 120 cd/m2 it will look over saturated too.
This is my Pioneer calibrated for 150 cd/m2 and it never looked anything but natural.
And the saturation on that was just over half way, using the ISF preset out of the box I dropped it down to around 40% to get rid of that fluorescent glow to colours and upped the contrast to the point where info was being lost of white shirts etc.
Have lived with the LG 65" Signature for just under a week now. The sheer size (replaced a 43" Pioneer plasma) is forgotten within minutes. There hasn't really been time to play around with it but the preset picture and sound options seem fine.
There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
swisstoni said:
Have lived with the LG 65" Signature for just under a week now. The sheer size (replaced a 43" Pioneer plasma) is forgotten within minutes. There hasn't really been time to play around with it but the preset picture and sound options seem fine.
There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
To be fair, if you have time to watch a show for 60 seconds you have time to adjust. There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
Try these settings.
Settings.
Advanced (grey circle bottom of screen)
Picture preset ISF.
OLED 60
Contrast 80
Colour 48
Brightness 55
H Sharp 18
V Sharp 18
Expert Control
Dynamic Contrast LOW
Super Res HIGH
Colour Gamut STANDARD
Gamma 2.4
White balance (try the following)
Colour temp Warm 2
2 point
High
Red +2
Green -10
Blue -4
(You should be able to see if it gets more natural looking on skin tones etc)
This is the bit that handles motion....
PICTURE OPTIONS
Trumotion
USER
Try setting de judder at 0 and De Blur at 3 or 4. Or is it the other way round? Try both.
If you crank one of them up it makes everything look a bit false, like it is shot on a handycam. But this does work well for sport.
gizlaroc said:
swisstoni said:
Have lived with the LG 65" Signature for just under a week now. The sheer size (replaced a 43" Pioneer plasma) is forgotten within minutes. There hasn't really been time to play around with it but the preset picture and sound options seem fine.
There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
To be fair, if you have time to watch a show for 60 seconds you have time to adjust. There is some jumpyness to moving footballs and tennis balls - slightly disappointing. This might be fixable with motion settings - no time to try yet but I'd argue I shouldn't have to be bothering on a telly of this price.
That niggle aside, it's undoubtedly the best TV I've come across.
Try these settings.
Settings.
Advanced (grey circle bottom of screen)
Picture preset ISF.
OLED 60
Contrast 80
Colour 48
Brightness 55
H Sharp 18
V Sharp 18
Expert Control
Dynamic Contrast LOW
Super Res HIGH
Colour Gamut STANDARD
Gamma 2.4
White balance (try the following)
Colour temp Warm 2
2 point
High
Red +2
Green -10
Blue -4
(You should be able to see if it gets more natural looking on skin tones etc)
This is the bit that handles motion....
PICTURE OPTIONS
Trumotion
USER
Try setting de judder at 0 and De Blur at 3 or 4. Or is it the other way round? Try both.
If you crank one of them up it makes everything look a bit false, like it is shot on a handycam. But this does work well for sport.
I was loath to play around quickly because I don't really know what I'm doing frankly. But I assume there's a 'factory reset' option if I mess it all up.
Yeah you can always set them back.
I'd avoid doing any of the colour stuff personally as each panel can be quite different, just do the main page stuff and look at the more simple options in the deeper menus.
Also I'm guessing by signature you mean you have the G6? If so the settings might not be 100% applicable from a B6 as they use different processors that have different quirks etc.
I'd avoid doing any of the colour stuff personally as each panel can be quite different, just do the main page stuff and look at the more simple options in the deeper menus.
Also I'm guessing by signature you mean you have the G6? If so the settings might not be 100% applicable from a B6 as they use different processors that have different quirks etc.
But definitely put it in Warm 2, all the others have far too much blue push.
And every single OLED from LG has had too much green from the midpoint getting worse as it gets to white. So it is worth having a play at reducing Green at the high point and seeing what you think, it should be pretty obvious if it is making it look better or worse.
And every single OLED from LG has had too much green from the midpoint getting worse as it gets to white. So it is worth having a play at reducing Green at the high point and seeing what you think, it should be pretty obvious if it is making it look better or worse.
I've been having an odd problem with my B6 while watching Blu-Rays over the Christmas period.
There's the odd occasion where the screen blanks out for a few seconds (completely black) but audio is still OK. This has happened maybe 2 or 3 times during a 2 hour film for instance, although last night we watched a 90 minute 4K UHD film and it didn't happen once.
I've only just wired everything in and tidied all the cabling behind the TV and players, so I don't really want to have to get behind there again straight away to swap cables, so maybe someone know what this is likely to be?
Setup is a Samsung UBDK8500 - 0.5m HDMI cable - Marantz NR1607 - 2m HDMI cable - LG B6 HDMI ARC. Cables are all HDMI 2.0 compliant. I'm using the optical connection from the AV RX to the TV to carry audio.
There's the odd occasion where the screen blanks out for a few seconds (completely black) but audio is still OK. This has happened maybe 2 or 3 times during a 2 hour film for instance, although last night we watched a 90 minute 4K UHD film and it didn't happen once.
I've only just wired everything in and tidied all the cabling behind the TV and players, so I don't really want to have to get behind there again straight away to swap cables, so maybe someone know what this is likely to be?
Setup is a Samsung UBDK8500 - 0.5m HDMI cable - Marantz NR1607 - 2m HDMI cable - LG B6 HDMI ARC. Cables are all HDMI 2.0 compliant. I'm using the optical connection from the AV RX to the TV to carry audio.
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