PAX wardrobes, do you need to fix on the wall
Discussion
after some helpful advice form these forums regarding what wardrobes to have for our walk in wardrobe we went to down to ikea yesterday afternoon (man that place is mental) anyway they had lot sof display whith lots of accessories etc.
our room is 235cm so i will need to cut them down, we have plasterboard walls so wanted to make sure if we should fixed them to the walls and how to go about doing it to stop them falling in.
our room is 235cm so i will need to cut them down, we have plasterboard walls so wanted to make sure if we should fixed them to the walls and how to go about doing it to stop them falling in.
I just made a reply but then realised I think I'd totally misunderstood the point you were making so have deleted... 
Mine are fixed on through the fixing brackets at the top corners of the frame. Without fixing to the wall the frame is a little too bendy IIRC. I think we also had to brace ours with a chock of wood or something because they are designed to be pushed right up against the wall and don't take into account the fact that most people have skirting boards...
Mine are fixed on through the fixing brackets at the top corners of the frame. Without fixing to the wall the frame is a little too bendy IIRC. I think we also had to brace ours with a chock of wood or something because they are designed to be pushed right up against the wall and don't take into account the fact that most people have skirting boards...
Blue Oval84 said:
I just made a reply but then realised I think I'd totally misunderstood the point you were making so have deleted...
Mine are fixed on through the fixing brackets at the top corners of the frame. Without fixing to the wall the frame is a little too bendy IIRC. I think we also had to brace ours with a chock of wood or something because they are designed to be pushed right up against the wall and don't take into account the fact that most people have skirting boards...
thanks,on ething i didnt check was how they fixed to the wall, whether they had little triangle brackets in the corners. my problem with plasterboards is the fixtures just seem to pull out the wall without fixing to the thin block behind it, some walls havent even go the block just seem to be hollow with a sheet of plasterbaord each side.Mine are fixed on through the fixing brackets at the top corners of the frame. Without fixing to the wall the frame is a little too bendy IIRC. I think we also had to brace ours with a chock of wood or something because they are designed to be pushed right up against the wall and don't take into account the fact that most people have skirting boards...
we will be taking the skirtings off so i can get them snug against the wall
If the wardrobe has a plinth it would be neater to cut little bits out of that and fit the wardrobe over the skirting.
As for fixing to the wall, does it try to fall forwards when you pull on the front or is it stable? If wobbly, if you can't find the studs (wooden struts) behind it, use special plasterboard fixings.
As for fixing to the wall, does it try to fall forwards when you pull on the front or is it stable? If wobbly, if you can't find the studs (wooden struts) behind it, use special plasterboard fixings.
I've done exactly this. Room height 236. Used 236 high PAX wardrobes. You'll need to cut top part of sides, and back, and you WILL have to secure them back to the wall. Ours is plasterboard dot&dabbed to the breeze blocks. I screw wardrobes to the breeze block rather than plasterboard, considering weight and that I don't want any nasty surprises. I think it looks very very good.
(You don't need to cut doors, mine have about 4mm space at the top and about 10mm at the bottom, with very thick underlay and carpet).
If you want, I'll try to get some pictures.
(You don't need to cut doors, mine have about 4mm space at the top and about 10mm at the bottom, with very thick underlay and carpet).
If you want, I'll try to get some pictures.
hing jobs that'll take hours to rectify.Thanks for all the replies this is going to be a start of the room so skirting boards off, cheap laminate up and then wardrobes down. I planned on cutting down the plinth at the bottom the wardrobe to make them fit, seems easier that trying to do it at the top. The flooring will go up against the cut plinth hiding some of that.
We are going for about 7 wardrobes without doors, kinda in a U configuration
We are going for about 7 wardrobes without doors, kinda in a U configuration
Edited by stolt on Sunday 2nd November 23:58
It's not easier to cut bottom. You still have to cut both sides and back , and in addition you'll have to cut front and back support bits. You'll also need to cut them perfectly straight which will never happen unless you have table saw. There is no point in putting laminate or anything else under the wardrobes, you'll just add height for no reason. I did use acoustic mastic to cover the joins of chipboard and space between walls and floor. Trust me, cutting bottoms is recipe for disaster.
This depends on how old your house is and what is the construction. If its old and/or solid walls especially ........
Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
Just fitted a load of these for my sister, secured them to the wall with plasterboard screw's.
Used a very long screw and made up a plastic spacer so it was all snug.
They are now solid and don't move one bit.
Also if you fit the internal lights, you will have to put a bit of tape over the top 1/4 of one one of the sensors to get them to work when you open the doors.
Used a very long screw and made up a plastic spacer so it was all snug.
They are now solid and don't move one bit.
Also if you fit the internal lights, you will have to put a bit of tape over the top 1/4 of one one of the sensors to get them to work when you open the doors.
Wozy68 said:
This depends on how old your house is and what is the construction. If its old and/or solid walls especially ........
Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
Can I ask why you suggest leaving a gap against an outside wall?Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
I have PAX wardbrobes and made the msitake of leaving the gripper rods down and they lean forward now. Im thinking to put a strip of wood the same height as the gripper rod under the front edge and supports to correct it and then also attaching them to the wall for added strenght.
Wozy68 said:
This depends on how old your house is and what is the construction. If its old and/or solid walls especially ........
Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
Wozy,Do your wardrobes have backs in them or do you see the wall?
If they have backs, and its an outside wall, check which direction the wall is facing. If its North leave a minimum 30MM gap between the back of the cupboard and the wall and DO NOT screw into the wall if possible but screw through the sides.
If the cabinet doesn't have a back and the wall is visable when you open the doors, DO NOT install wardrobes there.
We always fix through the sides of cabinets rather than through the backs.
they have kind of flimsy back that's more to protect insides from the dust and to match the colour, than to add any structural strength. They are secured to the wall with a bracket like this
bracket is fixed to the side of the wardrobe, and then with the screw to the wall. I didn't want to trust the plasterboard, hence going straight through it to the breeze block.
Thanks exactly the same style of fitting for the kitchen units we installed into our utility room, I screwed them altogether as well to get that solid dix.
I wish I spent more time inspecting them now especially the top and bottoms, I didn't notice the tops had so much to them and my theory being that as they are going onto floor board with the cut at the bottom and then the flooring upto it, it hides the cut bit nicely and of course the untouched top goes nicely against the ceiling. Delivery is planned for 14th November so I guess ill find out sooner rather than later. Might have a quick look online at the top.
I wish I spent more time inspecting them now especially the top and bottoms, I didn't notice the tops had so much to them and my theory being that as they are going onto floor board with the cut at the bottom and then the flooring upto it, it hides the cut bit nicely and of course the untouched top goes nicely against the ceiling. Delivery is planned for 14th November so I guess ill find out sooner rather than later. Might have a quick look online at the top.
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