Discussion
First off, I admit it, they terrify me but I need one.
I'm heating the house (a modest 2 up, 2 down) with wood and I have a couple of pine trees in the front garden that are getting too big - trunk dia is 600mm, canopy spread about 6m, so they need to come down.
I'm considering one of these two options;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/62CC-20-PETROL-CHAINSAW-C...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TIMBERPRO-Petrol-Assisted...
The timber pro has better reviews, but man maths suggested that the parker may be a better saw as its RRP is greater than the timber pro. I presume this is just a marketing ploy and I'm inlined to go with the timber pro + gloves and hard hat etc.
I'm on a limited budget, which makes a stihl or husqvarna difficult to fund.
I'm also considering chainsaw pants but I suspect, as I'm 6'7" I'll find it difficult nee impossible to find any that fit.
Anyone have any thoughts or advice please?
TIA
I'm heating the house (a modest 2 up, 2 down) with wood and I have a couple of pine trees in the front garden that are getting too big - trunk dia is 600mm, canopy spread about 6m, so they need to come down.
I'm considering one of these two options;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/62CC-20-PETROL-CHAINSAW-C...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TIMBERPRO-Petrol-Assisted...
The timber pro has better reviews, but man maths suggested that the parker may be a better saw as its RRP is greater than the timber pro. I presume this is just a marketing ploy and I'm inlined to go with the timber pro + gloves and hard hat etc.
I'm on a limited budget, which makes a stihl or husqvarna difficult to fund.
I'm also considering chainsaw pants but I suspect, as I'm 6'7" I'll find it difficult nee impossible to find any that fit.
Anyone have any thoughts or advice please?
TIA
First off, ignoring issues of competence, space and accuracy of felling, please make sure you have the correct PPE before starting a chainsaw.
It is one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment you're likely to have in your hands. You'll need head, eye, ear, hand, leg, and foot protection.
I can't help with chainsaw choice, sorry.
Is paying a professional out of the question?
It is one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment you're likely to have in your hands. You'll need head, eye, ear, hand, leg, and foot protection.
I can't help with chainsaw choice, sorry.
Is paying a professional out of the question?
The Timberpro has a 2 year warranty, whether or not it's worth the paper it's written on remains to be seen, but there is no mention of warranty on the Parker one.
Parts availability is always an issue with these cheap machines, and they are often binned, because parts are either cost prohibitive or unobtainable.
Yes, Husky or Stihl saws are expensive by comparison, but parts are readily available and those brands always have a decent resale value.
Parts availability is always an issue with these cheap machines, and they are often binned, because parts are either cost prohibitive or unobtainable.
Yes, Husky or Stihl saws are expensive by comparison, but parts are readily available and those brands always have a decent resale value.
Get a pro in to fell the trees. You don't say how tall the tree is but a 60cm diameter trunk indicates it's probably a big tree....which is well beyond the competence of someone who hasn't wielded a chainsaw before.
Seriously. Get a professional to do felling.
An inexpensive but good saw for processing a little firewood would be this: http://www.elmershardware.co.uk/garden-machinery/c...
Dolmar PS 45-35 and actually 'Made in Germany'. A little more costly than your original suggestions but a very capable saw with a sensible amount of power for a 'homeowner' chainsaw. I've got one and it starts first time, every time and has done a huge amount of work.
PPE is necessary as well. An ear defenders/helmet/face guard combo is a good start. Ballistic trousers might be going a bit far just for cutting up some firewood but good if your budget stretches to it. Steel toe cap boots a must (...ask me how I know.)
......but definitely get a tree surgeon to fell the trees.
Seriously. Get a professional to do felling.
An inexpensive but good saw for processing a little firewood would be this: http://www.elmershardware.co.uk/garden-machinery/c...
Dolmar PS 45-35 and actually 'Made in Germany'. A little more costly than your original suggestions but a very capable saw with a sensible amount of power for a 'homeowner' chainsaw. I've got one and it starts first time, every time and has done a huge amount of work.
PPE is necessary as well. An ear defenders/helmet/face guard combo is a good start. Ballistic trousers might be going a bit far just for cutting up some firewood but good if your budget stretches to it. Steel toe cap boots a must (...ask me how I know.)
......but definitely get a tree surgeon to fell the trees.
Edited by Depthhoar on Tuesday 6th June 00:18
Depthhoar said:
Get a pro in to fell the trees. You don't say how tall the tree is but a 60cm diameter trunk indicates it's probably a big tree....which is well beyond the competence of someone who hasn't wielded a chainsaw before.
Seriously. Get a professional to do felling.
An inexpensive but good saw for processing a little firewood would be this: http://www.elmershardware.co.uk/garden-machinery/c...
Dolmar PS 45-35 and actually 'Made in Germany'. A little more costly than your original suggestions but a very capable saw with a sensible amount of power for a 'homeowner' chainsaw. I've got one and it starts first time, every time and has done a huge amount of work.
PPE is necessary as well. An ear defenders/helmet/face guard combo is a good start. Ballistic trousers might be going a bit far just for cutting up some firewood but good if your budget stretches to it. Steel toe cap boots a must (...ask me how I know.)
......but definitely get a tree surgeon to fell the trees.
I'm not overly concerned about taking the trees down, they've been cut back every 2 years and aren't particularly tall - the main trunk is 3m max.Seriously. Get a professional to do felling.
An inexpensive but good saw for processing a little firewood would be this: http://www.elmershardware.co.uk/garden-machinery/c...
Dolmar PS 45-35 and actually 'Made in Germany'. A little more costly than your original suggestions but a very capable saw with a sensible amount of power for a 'homeowner' chainsaw. I've got one and it starts first time, every time and has done a huge amount of work.
PPE is necessary as well. An ear defenders/helmet/face guard combo is a good start. Ballistic trousers might be going a bit far just for cutting up some firewood but good if your budget stretches to it. Steel toe cap boots a must (...ask me how I know.)
......but definitely get a tree surgeon to fell the trees.
Edited by Depthhoar on Tuesday 6th June 00:18
But I take your point(s), thanks.
Higgs boson said:
First off, ignoring issues of competence, space and accuracy of felling, please make sure you have the correct PPE before starting a chainsaw.
It is one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment you're likely to have in your hands. You'll need head, eye, ear, hand, leg, and foot protection.
I can't help with chainsaw choice, sorry.
Is paying a professional out of the question?
No, but I want to do it myself...It is one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment you're likely to have in your hands. You'll need head, eye, ear, hand, leg, and foot protection.
I can't help with chainsaw choice, sorry.
Is paying a professional out of the question?
meehaja said:
i feel slightly emasculated saying it, but my electric chainsaw is fine for everything i do with it. I have a petrol saw and its just a pain. its a pain to start, as i can't get my steel toe cap boots through the handle whilst pulling the cord (though i do have big feet).
Hmm I'm a size 13 so you might have a point there...sparkythecat said:
The Timberpro has a 2 year warranty, whether or not it's worth the paper it's written on remains to be seen, but there is no mention of warranty on the Parker one.
Parts availability is always an issue with these cheap machines, and they are often binned, because parts are either cost prohibitive or unobtainable.
Yes, Husky or Stihl saws are expensive by comparison, but parts are readily available and those brands always have a decent resale value.
That was plan b. A second hand husky or stihl, maybe one with a seized engine. But it's a tin of worms for me, I can fix a two stroke easily enough, I know how to fix a recoil starter, but beyond that, what should I be looking for?Parts availability is always an issue with these cheap machines, and they are often binned, because parts are either cost prohibitive or unobtainable.
Yes, Husky or Stihl saws are expensive by comparison, but parts are readily available and those brands always have a decent resale value.
I presume chain replacement is a routine operation but the thought of one breaking in use is rather scary.
Edited by Zombie on Tuesday 6th June 01:25
Buy a proper eye, ear and head protector, gloves, trousers and steel toe capped boots. Do not scimp on safety. Even with 30 experience of wielding chainsaws our gardener managed to slice his neck with a slip of the saw a few years back. He survived but only thanks to his gear.
I got a chainsaw for my birthday this year so I could sort our firewood prep out. I used it for 30 seconds without any gear "just to see" and it terrified me enough to drive down to the local garden/outdoors/hardware place and get kitted out. They slice through a tree trunk like a hot knife through butter. Ballistic fabrics are the only things that can stop them if things go wrong. Saying that, have fun and Post some pics of the felling!!!
I got a chainsaw for my birthday this year so I could sort our firewood prep out. I used it for 30 seconds without any gear "just to see" and it terrified me enough to drive down to the local garden/outdoors/hardware place and get kitted out. They slice through a tree trunk like a hot knife through butter. Ballistic fabrics are the only things that can stop them if things go wrong. Saying that, have fun and Post some pics of the felling!!!
First off, if you’ve never used one before, either get the pros in, or do a course.
I did a chainsaw course, one day, learning how to use one safely, how to fell and process trees, and how to maintain the machine, including lots of time out on the field chopping up trees with the pro, only cost me about £120 from memory.
Secondly, don’t use your size as an excuse to not wear PPE, im 6'7, size 15 shoes and ive managed just fine, my trousers are Stihl and my boots are helly hanson.
Thirdly, as you only have two trees to cut down, is it really worth buying a machine and all the PPEE, to be used for an hour or two and never used again? cant you hire or borrow some? where are you based? My chainsaw, ppe, boots etc would fit you just fine.
lastly, if you are determined to do it yourself and want a machine to do the job, the timerpro looks good for the money, not going to last you years, but will be ok for the odd fire up/fell
I’ve got a husky 435 as my main chainsaw, its great for 90% of what i need it for, however it only has a 15" bar so im considering getting the timberpro 20" bar or even the Hyundai 22" just as a second, occasional use chainsaw for the bigger jobs.
do check out the hyundai, that’s probally what im going to get, looks decent and 3 year warranty, they also made my petrol strimmer and that’s good, with good aftersales support too.
I did a chainsaw course, one day, learning how to use one safely, how to fell and process trees, and how to maintain the machine, including lots of time out on the field chopping up trees with the pro, only cost me about £120 from memory.
Secondly, don’t use your size as an excuse to not wear PPE, im 6'7, size 15 shoes and ive managed just fine, my trousers are Stihl and my boots are helly hanson.
Thirdly, as you only have two trees to cut down, is it really worth buying a machine and all the PPEE, to be used for an hour or two and never used again? cant you hire or borrow some? where are you based? My chainsaw, ppe, boots etc would fit you just fine.
lastly, if you are determined to do it yourself and want a machine to do the job, the timerpro looks good for the money, not going to last you years, but will be ok for the odd fire up/fell
I’ve got a husky 435 as my main chainsaw, its great for 90% of what i need it for, however it only has a 15" bar so im considering getting the timberpro 20" bar or even the Hyundai 22" just as a second, occasional use chainsaw for the bigger jobs.
do check out the hyundai, that’s probally what im going to get, looks decent and 3 year warranty, they also made my petrol strimmer and that’s good, with good aftersales support too.
Do a course.
Get the kit.
I did a course the other year - a weekend, with the first day spent entirely inside, covering all the basics - sharpening, maintenance, PPE etc. The second day was out in the woods, making big bits of wood into smaller bits. There was then a third day, a few weeks later, on making smallish trees lie down. Very glad I did...
A good mate did the pro level courses, for a new job as a countryside warden. First time they let him in the woods on his tod? He proved how well the trousers stop the chain...
You can get over-trousers/chaps - unless you're some truly odd shape, they WILL fit. There are boxed safety kits containing helmet-with-ear-protection/over-trousers/gloves, then you buy the boots separately. If you look on the various online suppliers, you'll see that many of the safety kits contain blood clotting agent, too. <parp> This should give you a hint as to how easily it can go wrong. We had a guy doing a tree survey for Western Power. One of his hands said exactly why he was doing the surveys now, not doing the work... Looked a bit like a lobster claw.
And then I watch the old boy next door, waving the saw around with no more PPE than a threadbare checked shirt and sheep-s
t-stained cords. <shudder>
Get the kit.
I did a course the other year - a weekend, with the first day spent entirely inside, covering all the basics - sharpening, maintenance, PPE etc. The second day was out in the woods, making big bits of wood into smaller bits. There was then a third day, a few weeks later, on making smallish trees lie down. Very glad I did...
A good mate did the pro level courses, for a new job as a countryside warden. First time they let him in the woods on his tod? He proved how well the trousers stop the chain...
You can get over-trousers/chaps - unless you're some truly odd shape, they WILL fit. There are boxed safety kits containing helmet-with-ear-protection/over-trousers/gloves, then you buy the boots separately. If you look on the various online suppliers, you'll see that many of the safety kits contain blood clotting agent, too. <parp> This should give you a hint as to how easily it can go wrong. We had a guy doing a tree survey for Western Power. One of his hands said exactly why he was doing the surveys now, not doing the work... Looked a bit like a lobster claw.
And then I watch the old boy next door, waving the saw around with no more PPE than a threadbare checked shirt and sheep-s
t-stained cords. <shudder>Zombie said:
I presume chain replacement is a routine operation but the thought of one breaking in use is rather scary.
And that's one reason why you regularly inspect the chain, checking the lube feed is working, as you sharpen it every time you use it, and every time you refill it while you're working.Edited by TooMany2cvs on Tuesday 6th June 09:38
If these two trees are all you've got and are intending to cut, I dare say that either of those saws would do, but if you are going to fuel a woodburning stove long term,
invest in a reputable make.
I've cut up logs for years and have a love hate relationship with my chainsaw;
I really find the process very satisfying, but I'm terrified of the consequences of a mishap.
As my first foray into chainsaw use I'd be most wary of the actual felling of a 60cm trunk.
ETA. Those saws advertise 'assisted start', I've been told that an old fashioned simple pull cord start is much more reliable in the long term.
invest in a reputable make.
I've cut up logs for years and have a love hate relationship with my chainsaw;
I really find the process very satisfying, but I'm terrified of the consequences of a mishap.
As my first foray into chainsaw use I'd be most wary of the actual felling of a 60cm trunk.
ETA. Those saws advertise 'assisted start', I've been told that an old fashioned simple pull cord start is much more reliable in the long term.
Edited by Elderly on Tuesday 6th June 09:46
I bought a husqvarna 235, oils and all Safety equipment (chaps, gloves, boots, mask/defenders etc.) recently to remove three large conifers in my back garden.
Worked out around £250 for everything I needed which compared to the £80+vat a day to rent one I thought was a good deal. Not only did I use it for two days (not full days) I now have it for any future jobs/friends/family. A word of caution is learn the safety aspects first and start very small before trying to tell a tree. Watch as many instructional videos as possible and familiarise yourself with its operation.
Worked out around £250 for everything I needed which compared to the £80+vat a day to rent one I thought was a good deal. Not only did I use it for two days (not full days) I now have it for any future jobs/friends/family. A word of caution is learn the safety aspects first and start very small before trying to tell a tree. Watch as many instructional videos as possible and familiarise yourself with its operation.
Felling a tree with a trunk wider than the bar isn't impossible, but I wouldn't choose to make it my first task. If it's important that it falls in a particular direction -and there are boughs or a lean which favours another direction, then this gets tricky, needs more kit and experience. Felling wedges and decent rope are pretty essential. Trees in gardens sometimes have long lost nails or screws in them from washing lines or treehouses which is a risk. Also, some conifers are very resinous and can quickly gum up the oiler and get the chain/bar very hot. If the tree is only 3m I'd be tempted to get up the ladder with a handsaw and take as much weight out of the trees as possible.
It would be hypocritical of me to insist that you pay a pro or do a course, because I'm self-taught. -That said I've been extremely careful, started with lower powered saws which are more forgiving and not touched anything I'm not confident about, (without bringing in a mate who's qualified and has access to industrial winches etc).
The risks are there in felling any tree, but you can be meticulous and systematic doing that. In my limited amateur experience, the risks really climb when you get tired, misjudge tension or get over confident during the subsequent 'ground work' when the tree's safely felled and your guard's down a bit.
It would be hypocritical of me to insist that you pay a pro or do a course, because I'm self-taught. -That said I've been extremely careful, started with lower powered saws which are more forgiving and not touched anything I'm not confident about, (without bringing in a mate who's qualified and has access to industrial winches etc).
The risks are there in felling any tree, but you can be meticulous and systematic doing that. In my limited amateur experience, the risks really climb when you get tired, misjudge tension or get over confident during the subsequent 'ground work' when the tree's safely felled and your guard's down a bit.
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