Our build thread, renovation and extension
Discussion
Here's the revised plans which the conservation officer insisted on...
- Changed to brick rather than render (not too bothered abouth that)
- Inset on the side wall on one side (totally pointless and makes it look a little cluttered)
- Roof height reduced (makes it look more messy there)
- Changed to brick rather than render (not too bothered abouth that)
- Inset on the side wall on one side (totally pointless and makes it look a little cluttered)
- Roof height reduced (makes it look more messy there)
Well it's been a busy weekend, we have substantially completed the drains and all of the electric, network and TV back boxes have been chased into the existing house.
Hopefully we have got the levels right, with approx 0.75-1 degree of fall on each section of pipe which equates to around 1 in 80. Fitting the pipes together and adjusting the heights is a relatively easy job, digging the holes a little less so. We had to avoid the water connection, the gas pipes and the electricty cable which were all in pretty much the same area. It was a case of digging as carefully as we could whilst tracking the pipes as we went, it all went relatively smoothly apart from nicking the gas pipe which had turned off at 90 degrees and headed off in a completely different direction. Luckilly it could be sealed with gaffer tape and Transco came out and fixed it last night.
We also had to contend with a pond in the way of our trench for the water pipe, which was made of thick reinforced concrete, a diversion away from the utilities for this trench which meant our pipe became a meter too short and the digger cracking a manhole cover we didn't even know was there, exposing a 5 foot deep pit! We decided not to replace the existing pipes all the way back to the road as digging at that depth with lots of underground services laying around became increasingly difficult and because those pipes looked as if they would last another 200 years easily. Everything on that house was supremely well built for the time.
We just need to finish off a few ends of the pipe, line up the rainwater traps properly and fit another man hole and core drill through the brickwork into the house for the rainwater and the new water pipe. We're planning on core drilling through the wall and using flexi couplers either side as we understand the building regs permit this as an alternative to using lintels.
Some areas of pipe close to the house became quite shallow despite using the minimum fall we could, so these will probably have to be concrete over or paving slabs laid to protect them. I think a chat with the building inspector will be required to decide the best route forwards on that.
The full set of pics are here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.101517484...
Hopefully we have got the levels right, with approx 0.75-1 degree of fall on each section of pipe which equates to around 1 in 80. Fitting the pipes together and adjusting the heights is a relatively easy job, digging the holes a little less so. We had to avoid the water connection, the gas pipes and the electricty cable which were all in pretty much the same area. It was a case of digging as carefully as we could whilst tracking the pipes as we went, it all went relatively smoothly apart from nicking the gas pipe which had turned off at 90 degrees and headed off in a completely different direction. Luckilly it could be sealed with gaffer tape and Transco came out and fixed it last night.
We also had to contend with a pond in the way of our trench for the water pipe, which was made of thick reinforced concrete, a diversion away from the utilities for this trench which meant our pipe became a meter too short and the digger cracking a manhole cover we didn't even know was there, exposing a 5 foot deep pit! We decided not to replace the existing pipes all the way back to the road as digging at that depth with lots of underground services laying around became increasingly difficult and because those pipes looked as if they would last another 200 years easily. Everything on that house was supremely well built for the time.
We just need to finish off a few ends of the pipe, line up the rainwater traps properly and fit another man hole and core drill through the brickwork into the house for the rainwater and the new water pipe. We're planning on core drilling through the wall and using flexi couplers either side as we understand the building regs permit this as an alternative to using lintels.
Some areas of pipe close to the house became quite shallow despite using the minimum fall we could, so these will probably have to be concrete over or paving slabs laid to protect them. I think a chat with the building inspector will be required to decide the best route forwards on that.
The full set of pics are here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.101517484...
I had some advice that a cat scanner isn't very easy to use and isn't very accurate so probably not a great deal of help. We were pretty careful, it took 4 of us an entire day to dig that so I think we were going as carefully as practical.
When I phone Transco they assured me there would be no charge as it's their responsibility before the meter. When the bloke turned up he said there would be a charge to fix it and refused to say how much so we'll he having an argument over that. It's too shallow and less than the HSE guideline depth, a fork would have gone through it.
When I phone Transco they assured me there would be no charge as it's their responsibility before the meter. When the bloke turned up he said there would be a charge to fix it and refused to say how much so we'll he having an argument over that. It's too shallow and less than the HSE guideline depth, a fork would have gone through it.
Muncher said:
I had some advice that a cat scanner isn't very easy to use and isn't very accurate so probably not a great deal of help. We were pretty careful, it took 4 of us an entire day to dig that so I think we were going as carefully as practical.
When I phone Transco they assured me there would be no charge as it's their responsibility before the meter. When the bloke turned up he said there would be a charge to fix it and refused to say how much so we'll he having an argument over that. It's too shallow and less than the HSE guideline depth, a fork would have gone through it.
Cat and genny is pretty good to be honest, but I agree you need experience with the thing.When I phone Transco they assured me there would be no charge as it's their responsibility before the meter. When the bloke turned up he said there would be a charge to fix it and refused to say how much so we'll he having an argument over that. It's too shallow and less than the HSE guideline depth, a fork would have gone through it.
You'll get a bill from them for sure, have you got photos with measurements etc? Anything more than 250mm deep and you'll be paying the bill
The drains are almost done, we have very little fall to play with and annoyingly where one leg enters the house we drilled the hole with the core drill about an inch too low so I think tomorrow will be spent removing a manhole and a few pipes and enlarging the hole upwards.
Cavity wall insulation was installed during the week and seems fine.
I can't remember who I was who was asking about steam cleaning brickwork, well I borrowed a steam cleaner yesterday and had a go on a patch of brick at the back today. Very pleased with it, it's certainly gentle enough on the bricks as the steam doesn't come out with any great force, but it's enough to remove the green tinge all the bricks have. The good thing from my point of view is that whilst it cleans them well, it leaves the odd trace behind so it's not at all obvious they've been cleaned and it still looks old.
Cavity wall insulation was installed during the week and seems fine.
I can't remember who I was who was asking about steam cleaning brickwork, well I borrowed a steam cleaner yesterday and had a go on a patch of brick at the back today. Very pleased with it, it's certainly gentle enough on the bricks as the steam doesn't come out with any great force, but it's enough to remove the green tinge all the bricks have. The good thing from my point of view is that whilst it cleans them well, it leaves the odd trace behind so it's not at all obvious they've been cleaned and it still looks old.
muncher what would you reckon to this for getting some brick action done myself
hot pressure washer (prefer steam but cant seem to find out)
http://www.hss.com/index.php?g=59311#Specification...
am wondering whether i can use it if i dial out some pressure?
platform
http://www.hss.com/g/87200/Indoor-Pop-Up-Access-Pl...
hot pressure washer (prefer steam but cant seem to find out)
http://www.hss.com/index.php?g=59311#Specification...
am wondering whether i can use it if i dial out some pressure?
platform
http://www.hss.com/g/87200/Indoor-Pop-Up-Access-Pl...
That's the washer I would use if I had to hire one. I think I only went up to 80 degrees, which was 10 degrees off maximum temperature. The HSS one goes to 140 degrees so would be more than enough.
I think that platform is only designed to be used on perfectly flat concrete, I wouldn't want to use it on anything unstable or uneven, or sloping. I'll have the benefit of full scaffolding that would already be up. You need two hands free so I don't think it can be done from a ladder.
I think that platform is only designed to be used on perfectly flat concrete, I wouldn't want to use it on anything unstable or uneven, or sloping. I'll have the benefit of full scaffolding that would already be up. You need two hands free so I don't think it can be done from a ladder.
You said youve had cavity wall insulation installed, but by the photos you have english bond brick work...?
I was informed that if you have it done on this type, the stretcher will transfer the cold through the wall and you will end up with damp spots on your interior walls.
Did no one mention this when they were carrying out the work?
Interested to know or if i've just been told a load of s***...
I was informed that if you have it done on this type, the stretcher will transfer the cold through the wall and you will end up with damp spots on your interior walls.
Did no one mention this when they were carrying out the work?
Interested to know or if i've just been told a load of s***...
Alfachick said:
I think the ones on the far left can be ditched and you could just use the other two. Liking the steam cleaner work! Looks so much better! 
I think the one of the left is the best in terms of texture, it just needs a little more variation in colour. Again the problem is the photos online show it as a mixed batch with half darker colours but then the sample arrives it has all the same coloured bricks on it.RC944 said:
do you know what each of them will look like when they have all weathered and aged ie what looks right now might look less right in a few years?
I think that's impossible to say, other than slightly more dirty and less bright. I'm only concerned about satisfying the planners now. Every brick expert has told me we won't get a perfect match anyway so you will always tell they were added later anyway.RC944 said:
i reckon an equal mix of all might be the best bet...
That's what I'm thinking. The one on the left should actually have a few darker variations anyway, so it's about right. The one on the right has some with black ends which will match the existing as well.Not heard from the planners yet so fingers crossed!
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