New Garage Build starts soon - Any final pointers?
Discussion
For the door I would use a SWS or a Horman roller door, both very high quality and use good quality motors (SWS use Somfy). I had one for 5 years (neighbour 10+) with no issues of operation, no warping (both south facing so direct sunlight) and no issues. I think a lot has to do with the quality of the installation so go with a reputable firm.
I really don't understand why people like sectional doors so much, they take up loads of room and roof space and don't offer any advantages over a roller. For me a roller everytime, far neater.
If you do get one think about the options you might want, they have app connectivity now so you can open and close via your phone which is good (no carrying a fob). You can also check on its status etc, the Securoglide Excel is police rated and very strong as well.
With regards to the electrics I put a double socket in each corner, as well as on one side of the door (for the trickle charger) and two so they sat above my workbench. You can also install one or two on the ceiling for your trickle chargers (some people prefer to mount them up there out the way and hang the leads down) and it might be worthwhile having a socket upstairs in your loft, I presume you will board it out and its useful to have power. For instance if you have space for a workbench or even storing tools, means you can charge them etc.
With regards to lighting don't bother with tubes, go for LED spotlights, lots of them. Think modern kitchen, if you wire them to a dimmer you can have really bright light with the option to tone it down a bit for later at night.
I would also think about a vertical blind for the window (easier to clean than horizontal), also think about where you are positioning velux windows if you only have say 2 not 4, no point putting them all on the side you might board (if you are boarding the upstairs) and I presume you might board half only to make way for the ramp?
If you are going to board the lot then you could think about glass in the door for additional light, or even an additional window pending what type of light you are looking for. The roller doors can also be specced with slats at the top with clear areas for light.
If you are not boarding the loft space then have you thought about having the roof built as per a loft conversion with no beams in the way? Would make using a ramp a easier as nothing to avoid - you could also insulate and plaster the inside and have a very high bright ceiling..? If not and you will have regular beams and you don't want to board it then you could think about adding small areas around the edge for storage, kinda like shelving you can access with a ladder (just make sure it has a lip so things cannot slide off). You could also spec the roof so it is strong enough to have an area with no beams, to allow your ramp to rise into the roof space.
HTH
I really don't understand why people like sectional doors so much, they take up loads of room and roof space and don't offer any advantages over a roller. For me a roller everytime, far neater.
If you do get one think about the options you might want, they have app connectivity now so you can open and close via your phone which is good (no carrying a fob). You can also check on its status etc, the Securoglide Excel is police rated and very strong as well.
With regards to the electrics I put a double socket in each corner, as well as on one side of the door (for the trickle charger) and two so they sat above my workbench. You can also install one or two on the ceiling for your trickle chargers (some people prefer to mount them up there out the way and hang the leads down) and it might be worthwhile having a socket upstairs in your loft, I presume you will board it out and its useful to have power. For instance if you have space for a workbench or even storing tools, means you can charge them etc.
With regards to lighting don't bother with tubes, go for LED spotlights, lots of them. Think modern kitchen, if you wire them to a dimmer you can have really bright light with the option to tone it down a bit for later at night.
I would also think about a vertical blind for the window (easier to clean than horizontal), also think about where you are positioning velux windows if you only have say 2 not 4, no point putting them all on the side you might board (if you are boarding the upstairs) and I presume you might board half only to make way for the ramp?
If you are going to board the lot then you could think about glass in the door for additional light, or even an additional window pending what type of light you are looking for. The roller doors can also be specced with slats at the top with clear areas for light.
If you are not boarding the loft space then have you thought about having the roof built as per a loft conversion with no beams in the way? Would make using a ramp a easier as nothing to avoid - you could also insulate and plaster the inside and have a very high bright ceiling..? If not and you will have regular beams and you don't want to board it then you could think about adding small areas around the edge for storage, kinda like shelving you can access with a ladder (just make sure it has a lip so things cannot slide off). You could also spec the roof so it is strong enough to have an area with no beams, to allow your ramp to rise into the roof space.
HTH
Edited by NickCW on Thursday 8th June 08:45
Edited by NickCW on Thursday 8th June 08:49
I echo other people's statements about sockets. I have several benches in my garage and I find three doubles per bench does the job.
Maybe use office style trunking as that makes it bit neater to add, remove and change position of sockets. You can also easily use it for network connections and similar.
If you are building from scartch, I wpould also take the opportunity to install hard wired switches for things like compressors or fridge/freezers (We have a freezer in our garage)
Consider how you are going to open and shut your roller shutter. Key fob, pin pad, key? Fob with a pin pad option would be my preference.
Post up some pics once your done
Maybe use office style trunking as that makes it bit neater to add, remove and change position of sockets. You can also easily use it for network connections and similar.
If you are building from scartch, I wpould also take the opportunity to install hard wired switches for things like compressors or fridge/freezers (We have a freezer in our garage)
Consider how you are going to open and shut your roller shutter. Key fob, pin pad, key? Fob with a pin pad option would be my preference.
Post up some pics once your done
Also get more remotes than you think you need ....they will go missing .
I bought 3 . I have 1 left so I bought 3 more and am now waiting for a fitter to call
round and reprogram the motor to accept them at a cost of £120 .
And that is after a day on the internet trying to figure it out .
I bought 3 . I have 1 left so I bought 3 more and am now waiting for a fitter to call
round and reprogram the motor to accept them at a cost of £120 .
And that is after a day on the internet trying to figure it out .
kitz said:
Also get more remotes than you think you need ....they will go missing .
I bought 3 . I have 1 left so I bought 3 more and am now waiting for a fitter to call
round and reprogram the motor to accept them at a cost of £120 .
And that is after a day on the internet trying to figure it out .
That's another good point. Gate and garage door automation companies are not ten a penny! Might be worth finding an automation company to install the door and any opening/closing mechanisms. They will also offer a support contract and can add and changes things faster and will probably make sure its future proof too. I bought 3 . I have 1 left so I bought 3 more and am now waiting for a fitter to call
round and reprogram the motor to accept them at a cost of £120 .
And that is after a day on the internet trying to figure it out .
Shouldn't really hi jack a thread but has anyone any ideas on alternatives to brick/block?
I'm thinking timber (much better insulation I'd have thought, even better if lined inside which would also add strength or large crinkly tin sheds similar to agricultural sheds. I used to work at a garden with a shed about 25m x 15m and it was always warm and dry.
I'm thinking timber (much better insulation I'd have thought, even better if lined inside which would also add strength or large crinkly tin sheds similar to agricultural sheds. I used to work at a garden with a shed about 25m x 15m and it was always warm and dry.
Thanks for all the advice and feedback.on doors and sockets
I will have to check what the garage door company require for electrics. The plan is for a 10mm 3 core armoured cable - 40A supply to run into garage to power lights, sockets, car lift, garage door. Does this sound big enough?
How many internal lights do you think are required for a garage this size (4m x 6m)? Was thinking 4x1.8m LED light fittings plus one smaller one above work bench.
Garage floor tiles I was planning to use are: http://www.directtilewarehouse.com/dotti-anti-slip... which I have seen discussed on other threads. Not decided yet if i'd bother with the tile skirting – probably save the cost.
NickCW – The roof is designed to have a raised tie so there are no beams going across and giving full height ready for a lift, which means no loft space. The garage is only a wide single.Will look at the app connectivity options, could be tempted if not too expensive, otherwise im sure having a remote will be sufficient.
I will have to check what the garage door company require for electrics. The plan is for a 10mm 3 core armoured cable - 40A supply to run into garage to power lights, sockets, car lift, garage door. Does this sound big enough?
How many internal lights do you think are required for a garage this size (4m x 6m)? Was thinking 4x1.8m LED light fittings plus one smaller one above work bench.
Garage floor tiles I was planning to use are: http://www.directtilewarehouse.com/dotti-anti-slip... which I have seen discussed on other threads. Not decided yet if i'd bother with the tile skirting – probably save the cost.
NickCW – The roof is designed to have a raised tie so there are no beams going across and giving full height ready for a lift, which means no loft space. The garage is only a wide single.Will look at the app connectivity options, could be tempted if not too expensive, otherwise im sure having a remote will be sufficient.
elanfan said:
Can you link to an outside drain? A small corner sink to clean your hands before going back in the house might keep her indoors happier and also allow you to make a cuppa and wash your mugs ( never ever to be used to pee in when caught short - ever.)
The garage is just at the end of the garden and we have a utility room so I wasn't going to bother with a sink as its just additional cost/something to go wrong plus i don't drink tea/coffee so quite happy to live without a kettle. The rainwater will be linked to the drains so I could potentially get a sink in, but would take up space for storage etc.and I think there will be a limited number of times I will require running water.... it would be handy i'm sure occasionally but possibly just one think I can live without... no doubting it would be handy just would probably put money towards something else.Craikeybaby said:
I ran a water pipe (and network cabling) in the duct for the electrics when I had my garage built, I haven't connected it, but the cost is negligible at this stage and could save a lot of money down the line.
Out of interest, how many network cables did you run and can you get armoured nework cables? I understand what you are saying about the water, but presumably this then requires me to run the pipes into the house to connect up and as the electric cable is planned to be surface mounted (clipped to wall) rather than digging up the whole patio for 25m then not sure how much of a saving doing the water pipe now there would be?Definitely worth thinking about the provision for a higher electrical capacity, even if it is not used yet. An awful lot of new cars are going to be fully electric or plug-in hybrids in the next 10 years and the ability to charge them in garage (or just outside it will get important to you or future buyers). Having a cable that can take it in the first place is good future proofing. General good standard of chargers take a 32 amp connection.
Evoquative said:
Definitely worth thinking about the provision for a higher electrical capacity, even if it is not used yet. An awful lot of new cars are going to be fully electric or plug-in hybrids in the next 10 years and the ability to charge them in garage (or just outside it will get important to you or future buyers). Having a cable that can take it in the first place is good future proofing. General good standard of chargers take a 32 amp connection.
Good idea, I'm sure it will go that way so makes sense to not need to redo in future for the sake of a slightly larger supply now. I'll check with electrician if 40A 10mm cable is big enough. Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff