The ebay generator restoration thread
Discussion
Heroin chic said:
Sounds more rich than starvation. Try leaning it right out, sometimes the needles in the Chinese carbs ae gummed up/rubbish machining from the factory.
Only adjustment on original and clone, is an idle air mixture. No adjustment on main jet.I will pull the replacement carb apart tomorrow and see if there's anything obvious. It's a really weird one though!
Try pilling the fuel line off the carb and see whats the fuel flow is like.
looking at this https://www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catal...
there is a strainer in the pickup (item 003) which could be restricting the fuel flow.
How old is the fuel? as the little EM650 i showed earlier in the thread is quite sensitive to old fuel.
looking at this https://www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catal...
there is a strainer in the pickup (item 003) which could be restricting the fuel flow.
How old is the fuel? as the little EM650 i showed earlier in the thread is quite sensitive to old fuel.
littlebasher said:
Runs like a sewing machine on idle. Open it up and it'll rev up a few hundred RPM and will rev no further, no matter what you do with the throttle
Any smoke, at all? It does sound like it is running way too rich, or the main jet is blocked. Try soaking the carb in celly thinners for a bit - without the plastics and o-rings.Heroin chic said:
Any smoke, at all? It does sound like it is running way too rich, or the main jet is blocked. Try soaking the carb in celly thinners for a bit - without the plastics and o-rings.
No smoke off choke. Just weird that i get the same thing with two different carbs. May bypass the oil switch as well, in case that's dodgy.Will strip the carb tomorrow and report back. For all i know my Chinese special could be garbage as well !
Thanks for the tips guys
22 said:
He lives! Welcome back OP, get some projects going already!
This thread was always strangely satisfying considering I have no understanding of such witchcraft.
Unfortunately there hasn't been any that were worthwhile working on. Also in the current climate it's probably not best to go round to strangers houses to collect generators to work on or re sell,This thread was always strangely satisfying considering I have no understanding of such witchcraft.
Heroin chic said:
finlo said:
Could it be something on the Genny side causing it to bog down?
A dead short on the output can - not sure about Honda, but I've had that on a couple of small gennys. Not common though.Do you have a multimeter?, if yes when running whats the output voltage? should be 220-230v (depending on engine speed)
If no volts it could be as suggested a short in the generator windings, if the voltage is very low or very high the capacitor which regulates the voltage cold be at fault.
This clip shows how to test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2JjXp0V1Fg Obviously be careful when the engine is running as there could be hazardous voltages present (Don't zap yourself!)
Another check is to measure the resistance of the generator windings to see if there is a short. typically the generator windings have a resistance of 0.2 - 0.5 ohm (based on the ex5500).
Start by measuring the resistance of the meter leads and make a note of the reading, then measure across the generator windings at the output socket. Subtract the meter lead resistance from the reading across the output socket to get the generator winding resistance if the reading is 0 the generator windings are likely to be shot.
Had a play around today, looks like Finlo takes the prize
With the windings disconnected, the engine runs a treat. Plug them back in again, and it struggles to run at anything over like 1000rpm.
Does make some power on the 12v side when running (badly, only manages 5v)
Guess the genny side is shafted!
With the windings disconnected, the engine runs a treat. Plug them back in again, and it struggles to run at anything over like 1000rpm.
Does make some power on the 12v side when running (badly, only manages 5v)
Guess the genny side is shafted!
Take the gen head off and have a look - sometimes the bearing being loose lets the winding scrub on the casing and shorts it, sometimes it just decides to smoke itself but if so and if it is visible you can solder up the break, give it a spray of insulating varnish (or a dab of normal varnish at a pinch) and you are good to go.
littlebasher said:
Had a play around today, looks like Finlo takes the prize
With the windings disconnected, the engine runs a treat. Plug them back in again, and it struggles to run at anything over like 1000rpm.
Does make some power on the 12v side when running (badly, only manages 5v)
Guess the genny side is shafted!
Unusual for a Honda alternator to fail, out all the machines i have worked on its only the cheap Chinese gennys that like to burnout alternators. With the windings disconnected, the engine runs a treat. Plug them back in again, and it struggles to run at anything over like 1000rpm.
Does make some power on the 12v side when running (badly, only manages 5v)
Guess the genny side is shafted!
Wondering if something downstream from the alternator has a problem, as if the short was in the windings unplugging shouldn't make make a difference.
Were you able to take any measurements of the windings?
Blue32 said:
Unusual for a Honda alternator to fail, out all the machines i have worked on its only the cheap Chinese gennys that like to burnout alternators.
Wondering if something downstream from the alternator has a problem, as if the short was in the windings unplugging shouldn't make make a difference.
Were you able to take any measurements of the windings?
I wouldn't know which terminals to check, there's two connectors that come out of the alternator. One deals with the control side (oil level switch, engine cutoff) and the other deals (presumably) with the power output. It's unplugging that one that solves the problem, it's that which feeds the sockets, capacitor, rectifier etc.Wondering if something downstream from the alternator has a problem, as if the short was in the windings unplugging shouldn't make make a difference.
Were you able to take any measurements of the windings?
Even though when running, the green power light dimly illuminates, it doesn't appear to be making much in the way of mains power (certainly not enough to light up the bulb in my inspection lamp).
Heroin chic said:
The main winding is the one to check - between white and red (it looks like) from the diagram, at the connector which feeds the outlet.
Thanks Mr ChicChecked the windings (they're quite simple) and appears okay
The armature however, one side looks like this
The other side, not so good
Beyond economical repair methinks!
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