Discussion
Zombie said:
What do I need in terms of PPE? Any recommendations?
(over-)Trousers. Gloves. Helmet/face protection/ear defenders. Boots.You can buy the first three as a kit. This is what I've got... https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/husqvarna-basic-cha... (Not from here, never used them. Not a supplier recommendation...)
Zombie said:
I've got steel toe capped boots - cheap(ish) ones that were issued to me through work.
Lovely, an' all. So you have un-crushed toes on the foot you've just neatly removed... The proper boots are chain-stop armoured in the bits you're likely to cut, as well as the bits that you're likely to drop logs on.TooMany2cvs said:
Lovely, an' all. So you have un-crushed toes on the foot you've just neatly removed... The proper boots are chain-stop armoured in the bits you're likely to cut, as well as the bits that you're likely to drop logs on.
Thought that might be the case, which is why I mentioned it!Thanks for the link seems to be very cheap for what it is.
Edited by Zombie on Saturday 10th June 19:46
I got extra-turbo ones.I would point out that the majority of gloves are only protected on the back of one hand.
I keep both mine on the saw !
I only bought the helmet - for the visor.
As long as you think before cutting, keep your work area clear (so you don't fall) and stop before you get tired, it's pretty safe IME.
I keep both mine on the saw !
I only bought the helmet - for the visor.
As long as you think before cutting, keep your work area clear (so you don't fall) and stop before you get tired, it's pretty safe IME.
If you are going to do it yourself make sure you never try and cut with the shaded part of the saw, and like everyone else says wear appropriate protection. Kickback happens savagely fast and there's no chance of controlling it as it will be over before you even realise it's happened! Also if you are inexperienced at felling trees I would put some ladders up and sling a rope around it if there's any danger of it coming down and hitting something, either tie it off or get someone to pull it once you've put your gob in
also, I would recommend looking at Echo saws, the recent crop of stihls are hit and miss with the electronic tuning systemsV8RX7 said:
I would point out that the majority of gloves are only protected on the back of one hand.
I keep both mine on the saw !
I only bought the helmet - for the visor.
As long as you think before cutting, keep your work area clear (so you don't fall) and stop before you get tired, it's pretty safe IME.
What makes me laugh are those hard hat, visor and ear defender gizmos!! safety glasses fair enough and ear plugs if that bothered about the noise but come on.I keep both mine on the saw !
I only bought the helmet - for the visor.
As long as you think before cutting, keep your work area clear (so you don't fall) and stop before you get tired, it's pretty safe IME.
dickymint said:
What makes me laugh are those hard hat, visor and ear defender gizmos!! safety glasses fair enough and ear plugs if that bothered about the noise but come on.
If the saw kicks back towards your head it will glance off the helmet and stop you cutting your head in half. Not much to laugh about I bought my first chainsaw about 30 years ago before elf & safety was invented. It was a Stihl professional model but with just a 12" bar.
Best advice I was ever given was keep both hands on the saw at all times. NEVER try one handed - the quickest way of having a serious accident.
I bought a spare 14" bar (it was an option with the saw) and that baby lasted years and years - it could tackle anything - literally. Stout boots and decent gloves - f all else.
Then I bought a house with 3 acre woodland with fallen trees everywhere - so I decided I had to have a bigger toy - I had a Husky 66 with an 20" bar. Great piece of kit but not a patch on the little Stihl - and after using for some time, when felling, the weight makes you fatigued very quickly. Also you must keep them sharp - so another reason for a smaller bar as it can be sharpened in half the time.
If I had to buy another I wouldn't hesitate - a nice quality Stihl will be hard to beat, lighter weight, less power so more easily controllable and less tiring.
But don't cut corners - if your arms start to ache put the bloody thing down,
Sad to hear the quality of Stihl aren't what they used to be...
Best advice I was ever given was keep both hands on the saw at all times. NEVER try one handed - the quickest way of having a serious accident.
I bought a spare 14" bar (it was an option with the saw) and that baby lasted years and years - it could tackle anything - literally. Stout boots and decent gloves - f all else.
Then I bought a house with 3 acre woodland with fallen trees everywhere - so I decided I had to have a bigger toy - I had a Husky 66 with an 20" bar. Great piece of kit but not a patch on the little Stihl - and after using for some time, when felling, the weight makes you fatigued very quickly. Also you must keep them sharp - so another reason for a smaller bar as it can be sharpened in half the time.
If I had to buy another I wouldn't hesitate - a nice quality Stihl will be hard to beat, lighter weight, less power so more easily controllable and less tiring.
But don't cut corners - if your arms start to ache put the bloody thing down,
Sad to hear the quality of Stihl aren't what they used to be...
hucumber said:
If the saw kicks back towards your head it will glance off the helmet and stop you cutting your head in half. Not much to laugh about
Unfortunately not, the helmets are just plastic and the saws cut through them like butter - my Pro tells a lovely story about his mate who managed to embed his saw in his head / face.gfreeman said:
I bought my first chainsaw about 30 years ago before elf & safety was invented. It was a Stihl professional model but with just a 12" bar.
Best advice I was ever given was keep both hands on the saw at all times. NEVER try one handed - the quickest way of having a serious accident.
If I had to buy another I wouldn't hesitate - a nice quality Stihl will be hard to beat, lighter weight, less power so more easily controllable and less tiring.
But don't cut corners - if your arms start to ache put the bloody thing down,
Sad to hear the quality of Stihl aren't what they used to be...
Using saws one handed is only EVER for top handlers like the Stihl 200t, 020t series, and the like. Meant to be used when you are up a tree, and only have one hand free - they are light, will survive being dropped, and cut through a big bough in no time. "Look out below!"!Best advice I was ever given was keep both hands on the saw at all times. NEVER try one handed - the quickest way of having a serious accident.
If I had to buy another I wouldn't hesitate - a nice quality Stihl will be hard to beat, lighter weight, less power so more easily controllable and less tiring.
But don't cut corners - if your arms start to ache put the bloody thing down,
Sad to hear the quality of Stihl aren't what they used to be...
That's why no Stihl dealer (or Husky dealers) will sell you a top handler unless you can produce a chainsaw cert.
You can of course buy them on Ebay etc. - but they fetch top money - they are a pro saw, made for use by people who know exactly how to use them.
I have to admit, I've used top handlers to strip a felled tree many times - because again, they are super light, run very high revs, and you are unlikely to hit something in a bough that will kill the chain - no nails, etc. And I've done it with no PPE at all.
Would I advise it? Never.
A girl at work l know has a brother who was doing exactly what I have done, but treating it like a bloody light sabre or something - it kicked back right into his face, and he was having operations for months - and still looks like something out of a horror film, years later.
Zombie said:
Just bought the Husqvarna. 
What do I need in terms of PPE? Any recommendations?
I've got steel toe capped boots - cheap(ish) ones that were issued to me through work.
Steel toe cap boots will protect your toes from heavy things falling on them, but the rest of the boot won't stop the chainsaw ripping straight through your feet.What do I need in terms of PPE? Any recommendations?
I've got steel toe capped boots - cheap(ish) ones that were issued to me through work.
Chainsaw boots contain a material that clogs up the chainsaw blade, printing injury. Ive got these Husqvarna functional 24 boots which are suitable for my chainsaw speed..
I also have some Oregon chainsaw chaps, which are easy to put on/take off throughout the day, along with chainsaw gloves and helmet with steel visor. Its not cheap to buy all this kit, but I had access to two very large felled trees to cut up and take home, so the expense was worth it due to the sheer amount of wood I was getting.
Edited by LeadFarmer on Saturday 10th June 22:27
hucumber said:
dickymint said:
What makes me laugh are those hard hat, visor and ear defender gizmos!! safety glasses fair enough and ear plugs if that bothered about the noise but come on.
If the saw kicks back towards your head it will glance off the helmet and stop you cutting your head in half. Not much to laugh about 
you're giving yourself a false sense of security if you think that. Personally I make absolutely sure that my head is never in the same plane as the chain. Above all understand kickback (i've practiced it many times) and avoid it.dickymint said:
I will laugh at that you're giving yourself a false sense of security if you think that. Personally I make absolutely sure that my head is never in the same plane as the chain. Above all understand kickback (i've practiced it many times) and avoid it.
Well at least theres a chance the blade might glance off your hat or visor. Without it its definitely not going to glance off. I always wear them, along with ear defenders when using my petrol Husky as its loud. I don't always bother with the ear defenders with my electric chainsaw as its quiet in comparison, but I always wear hat, visor, gloves, boots and trousers. you're giving yourself a false sense of security if you think that. Personally I make absolutely sure that my head is never in the same plane as the chain. Above all understand kickback (i've practiced it many times) and avoid it.I can safely say that wearing all of this kit has been absolutely pointless so far as i haven't had an accident, but I wear them for what might be about to happen.
Edited by LeadFarmer on Saturday 10th June 23:36
LeadFarmer said:
dickymint said:
I will laugh at that you're giving yourself a false sense of security if you think that. Personally I make absolutely sure that my head is never in the same plane as the chain. Above all understand kickback (i've practiced it many times) and avoid it.
Well at least theres a chance the blade might glance off your hat or visor. Without it its definitely not going to glance off. I always wear them, along with ear defenders when using my petrol Husky as its loud. I don't always bother with the ear defenders with my electric chainsaw as its quiet in comparison, but I always wear hat, visor, gloves, boots and trousers. you're giving yourself a false sense of security if you think that. Personally I make absolutely sure that my head is never in the same plane as the chain. Above all understand kickback (i've practiced it many times) and avoid it.I can safely say that wearing all of this kit has been absolutely pointless so far as i haven't had an accident, but I wear them for what might be about to happen.
Edited by LeadFarmer on Saturday 10th June 23:36
dickymint said:
Not knocking you at all. Just trying to make a point that prevention is better than cure. I'm no expert with a chainsaw and there is no way that I would attempt to fell what the OP is considering without expert guidance at my side. It's a bit like driving as in 'speed doesn't kill it's bad driving'
Your right about prevention, I always try to keep my head out of the line of the blade.Ive only ever done ground work, Ive never felled a tree, and would be apprehensive at doing so, and I wouldn't really want to be working off the ground with the chainsaw at height. But in the right circumstances Id like to give it a go one day.
dickymint said:
Not knocking you at all. Just trying to make a point that prevention is better than cure. I'm no expert with a chainsaw and there is no way that I would attempt to fell what the OP is considering without expert guidance at my side. It's a bit like driving as in 'speed doesn't kill it's bad driving'
As I said before, I'm going to take the trunk out by other means. I'm not stupid!!!TooMany2cvs said:
Zombie said:
What do I need in terms of PPE? Any recommendations?
(over-)Trousers. Gloves. Helmet/face protection/ear defenders. Boots.You can buy the first three as a kit. This is what I've got... https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/husqvarna-basic-cha... (Not from here, never used them. Not a supplier recommendation...)
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