Garage fit out project
Discussion
Folks,
Looking for some advice, have a double garage with two single doors, double concrete lintel tied in at each wall with central pillar, pillar is assumed to be not load bearing. Interior is the usual unfinished brick, here's what we're looking to do :
(1) Remove central pillar, getting loadings done to determine if steel needed
(2) Interior - stud / batten and insulate, plaster board 12.5m and plaster (walls & ceiling)
(3) Level floor - concrete skim overcoat
(4) Tile floor - either ecotile or porcelain
There seems to be a fair few views from the builders as to how to tackle, including price !
What we're not sure on is the interior walls, is it better to :
(a) Stud / insulate - have been told rock wool is fine between studs others say kingspan
or
(b) Dot and dab plasterboard - is so is 12.5mm ok for this ? and why d&d versus stud
Also do I need some form of vapour barrier between wall and plasterboard / insulation, same with floor before tiling.
Looking for recommendations on the flooring approach as to whether porcelain or ecotile type is best.
Pricing seems to vary from £4k to £7k + vat to do the job across the quotes, all reasonable local firms.
Doors are coming in at spread of £1.6k to £2k + vat for horman LPU
Looking for some advice, have a double garage with two single doors, double concrete lintel tied in at each wall with central pillar, pillar is assumed to be not load bearing. Interior is the usual unfinished brick, here's what we're looking to do :
(1) Remove central pillar, getting loadings done to determine if steel needed
(2) Interior - stud / batten and insulate, plaster board 12.5m and plaster (walls & ceiling)
(3) Level floor - concrete skim overcoat
(4) Tile floor - either ecotile or porcelain
There seems to be a fair few views from the builders as to how to tackle, including price !
What we're not sure on is the interior walls, is it better to :
(a) Stud / insulate - have been told rock wool is fine between studs others say kingspan
or
(b) Dot and dab plasterboard - is so is 12.5mm ok for this ? and why d&d versus stud
Also do I need some form of vapour barrier between wall and plasterboard / insulation, same with floor before tiling.
Looking for recommendations on the flooring approach as to whether porcelain or ecotile type is best.
Pricing seems to vary from £4k to £7k + vat to do the job across the quotes, all reasonable local firms.
Doors are coming in at spread of £1.6k to £2k + vat for horman LPU
If you dot and dab plasterboard onto the brick/blockwork you won't be able to get any insulation behind the boards.
An alternative worth considering is insulated plasterboard with a built in vapour barrier.
http://british-gypsum.com/products/Gyproc-ThermaLi...
For ceiling just board and rockwool above.
If your floor has no DPM and you are able to install one (prior to screening) it's a good idea do so.
I assume you are installing an insulated double garage door, have a look at the u-values. Some are terrible, some are very, very good.
No point doing all the above and loosing heat through the door.
An alternative worth considering is insulated plasterboard with a built in vapour barrier.
http://british-gypsum.com/products/Gyproc-ThermaLi...
For ceiling just board and rockwool above.
If your floor has no DPM and you are able to install one (prior to screening) it's a good idea do so.
I assume you are installing an insulated double garage door, have a look at the u-values. Some are terrible, some are very, very good.
No point doing all the above and loosing heat through the door.
Edited by B17NNS on Saturday 25th May 23:45
Thanks guys,
Will be used as a garage, so no change of use. Looking to make it more usable rather a store for long discarded stuff.
The current single doors, are up-and-over 80s affairs that are just too narrow to fit the existing porker through, moving to sectionals I would be able to get in but a squeeze. This is primarily why I'm looking to open it up to a double door. Current width per door is around 1800mm brick to brick, with the pillar out this gets me around 3900mm opening.
Garage is dry, insulation was more for keeping it more comfortable when i'm pootling around the cars.
The doors we were looking at are from Hormann, U = 0.5 W/(m2·K) seems to be the u-value for the doors we're looking at. Does this class as good ?
We will be checking with building regs folks at the council but as there is no change of use, or making to habital etc we expect it to be a "crack on" response.
Will be used as a garage, so no change of use. Looking to make it more usable rather a store for long discarded stuff.
The current single doors, are up-and-over 80s affairs that are just too narrow to fit the existing porker through, moving to sectionals I would be able to get in but a squeeze. This is primarily why I'm looking to open it up to a double door. Current width per door is around 1800mm brick to brick, with the pillar out this gets me around 3900mm opening.
Garage is dry, insulation was more for keeping it more comfortable when i'm pootling around the cars.
The doors we were looking at are from Hormann, U = 0.5 W/(m2·K) seems to be the u-value for the doors we're looking at. Does this class as good ?
We will be checking with building regs folks at the council but as there is no change of use, or making to habital etc we expect it to be a "crack on" response.
shocks said:
Thanks guys,
Will be used as a garage, so no change of use. Looking to make it more usable rather a store for long discarded stuff.
The current single doors, are up-and-over 80s affairs that are just too narrow to fit the existing porker through, moving to sectionals I would be able to get in but a squeeze. This is primarily why I'm looking to open it up to a double door. Current width per door is around 1800mm brick to brick, with the pillar out this gets me around 3900mm opening.
Garage is dry, insulation was more for keeping it more comfortable when i'm pootling around the cars.
The doors we were looking at are from Hormann, U = 0.5 W/(m2·K) seems to be the u-value for the doors we're looking at. Does this class as good ?
We will be checking with building regs folks at the council but as there is no change of use, or making to habital etc we expect it to be a "crack on" response.
The centre pillar will be supporting. Have an engineer spec a suitable steel. At that length a lintel will be expensive. Then infil the steel with a soldier corse of brickwork. Will be used as a garage, so no change of use. Looking to make it more usable rather a store for long discarded stuff.
The current single doors, are up-and-over 80s affairs that are just too narrow to fit the existing porker through, moving to sectionals I would be able to get in but a squeeze. This is primarily why I'm looking to open it up to a double door. Current width per door is around 1800mm brick to brick, with the pillar out this gets me around 3900mm opening.
Garage is dry, insulation was more for keeping it more comfortable when i'm pootling around the cars.
The doors we were looking at are from Hormann, U = 0.5 W/(m2·K) seems to be the u-value for the doors we're looking at. Does this class as good ?
We will be checking with building regs folks at the council but as there is no change of use, or making to habital etc we expect it to be a "crack on" response.
Ref the garage fit out.
If you want warm, a stud wall is most cost effective. As an internal wall it will not need a vapour barrier. This is for external walls for timbre framed building.
Plasterbaord/stud/insulation(rockwall or cavity batts are cheaper than celotex) the plasterboard again. Use a damp proof under the sole plate (bottom stud)
Strong wall needs to be 400centre uprights and 2 sets of noggins to stiff the frame.
http://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/Interior-...
With the floor use a self levelling latex and then tile. Rubber floor tiles are useful and easily changed if damaged. They are also nicer on the knees if you need to work on the car.
If going for tile Porcelain is the best option but it will be costly.
Chris
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