Discussion
Hi,
I'm on the lada of the boiler world...Suprima 50.
I've had no end of issues and trying to seek help.
1. Fan went, so my friend who is GSE replaced it, then working
2. Hive went on, big faux pas this one, no end of issues, it now fires the boiler when requested
3. Now the biggy issue. Boiler is cycling and not staying on erratically, sometimes its on for 15 mins or longer sometimes its going off quicker.
HW is not staying on for more than a few minutes, CH stays on a tad longer.
4. Suspected pump seized with clunking noises when turning CH on in mornings,
5. Went down powered on Hive manually, nothing went into action, went in the cupboard and Noticed this morning motorised valve for CH hadn't worked so manual move and this went into position and began to work.
Utter nightmare, i'm lost really lost if anyone can help maybe me to pin point i'd be a very appreciative man.
I'm on the lada of the boiler world...Suprima 50.
I've had no end of issues and trying to seek help.
1. Fan went, so my friend who is GSE replaced it, then working
2. Hive went on, big faux pas this one, no end of issues, it now fires the boiler when requested
3. Now the biggy issue. Boiler is cycling and not staying on erratically, sometimes its on for 15 mins or longer sometimes its going off quicker.
HW is not staying on for more than a few minutes, CH stays on a tad longer.
4. Suspected pump seized with clunking noises when turning CH on in mornings,
5. Went down powered on Hive manually, nothing went into action, went in the cupboard and Noticed this morning motorised valve for CH hadn't worked so manual move and this went into position and began to work.
Utter nightmare, i'm lost really lost if anyone can help maybe me to pin point i'd be a very appreciative man.
You've already found the fault. The motorised valve head is one issue, easy enough to change and you can take the screw cap off the pump head and turn it with a screwdriver to see if it's sticking or seized even. A bit of water will cone out while the cap is off but not a flood.
Pumps won't run until the 2 port valve is fully open generally and has made the micro switch inside to signal the pump can run.
Pumps won't run until the 2 port valve is fully open generally and has made the micro switch inside to signal the pump can run.
almost certainly. lack of flow, the boiler thermostat is just cutting in/out on over heat all the time.
you can leave the 2 port valve manually open by forcing the little actuator into position, however its also a 2 min job to check the pump isnt sezied, quite often you can free it off with a twist of a screwdriver as temporary fix.
you can leave the 2 port valve manually open by forcing the little actuator into position, however its also a 2 min job to check the pump isnt sezied, quite often you can free it off with a twist of a screwdriver as temporary fix.
Yes i do think this suprima is going to go on forever, i've inherited it when moving in two years ago.
Been scratching head over this one for an hour (yes an hour).
I call for HW and actuator comes on to B position, then on this problematic one nothing if calling for it.
When i manually push it, live (on orange wires comes on) and heating seemed to stay on longer when i held it, minute i took it off it turns off.
think this is the valve or wiring and not getting power to turn the microswitch before i go and get a replacement header (its a drayton so quite easy to change)?
Been scratching head over this one for an hour (yes an hour).
I call for HW and actuator comes on to B position, then on this problematic one nothing if calling for it.
When i manually push it, live (on orange wires comes on) and heating seemed to stay on longer when i held it, minute i took it off it turns off.
think this is the valve or wiring and not getting power to turn the microswitch before i go and get a replacement header (its a drayton so quite easy to change)?
Edited by fourstardan on Friday 1st December 13:10
fourstardan said:
Yes i do think this suprima is going to go on forever, i've inherited it when moving in two years ago.
Been scratching head over this one for an hour (yes an hour).
I call for HW and actuator comes on to B position, then on this problematic one nothing if calling for it.
When i manually push it, live (on orange wires comes on) and heating seemed to stay on longer when i held it, minute i took it off it turns off.
think this is the valve or wiring and not getting power to turn the microswitch before i go and get a replacement header (its a drayton so quite easy to change)?
the spindles wear and the microswitch doesnt make, when you manually force it sometimes it makes properly and calls for heating etc. you can swap the heads generally without splitting the system down, i think you also need to isolate the 2 port valve itself if i remember and just undo 4 allen screws. its not much more expensive however to buy a complete 2 port valve. Been scratching head over this one for an hour (yes an hour).
I call for HW and actuator comes on to B position, then on this problematic one nothing if calling for it.
When i manually push it, live (on orange wires comes on) and heating seemed to stay on longer when i held it, minute i took it off it turns off.
think this is the valve or wiring and not getting power to turn the microswitch before i go and get a replacement header (its a drayton so quite easy to change)?
Edited by fourstardan on Friday 1st December 13:10
mains wiring at 230v so isolate fully.
Maybe put it back to how it was originally wired before hive to prove it all still works?Boiler control wiring on S and Y plan type is generally very straightforward. The 2 port valves are either open or shut, so the micro switch is made or not. The pump will run and the boiler will fire if the room stat is closed, 2 port valve is open and it's micro switch is made, thermal cut out switch on boiler is closed and the thermostatic control of water temperature is calling for heat on the boiler. (For heating obviously)
Edited by 200Plus Club on Saturday 2nd December 06:14
HW valve working this morning, tank stat must had been on desired temp.
Boiler constantly turning on/off though, it's been on for just under and hour now and doing it.
Boiler sounds far more noisier than before in a more powerful way could anything on the valve change had made this happen?
Could the PCB not like the hive?
Boiler constantly turning on/off though, it's been on for just under and hour now and doing it.
Boiler sounds far more noisier than before in a more powerful way could anything on the valve change had made this happen?
Could the PCB not like the hive?
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff