Query regarding kitchen fitting/worktops?

[-C-]

As we're getting to the stage now where I need to think about this, typically nothing is ever easy with our house so this will be as much of a chore as everything else...

None of the walls are straight, and there is a variance of ~50mm from the end of the main run to the other. I have lined the units up straight, one end is butted up to the wall, the other is freestanding by the amount above. How is it best to deal with this? Should the worktop be cut to accomodate this variance? This in itself causes a few issues as worktops are what, 600mm deep (or 665?). I guess we would need to use 665's to allow for the variance?

Also, at one end of the runs, there is a corner unit, which finishes about 100mm short of the wall. There is a dishwasher going up against the blank side of the unit, which is obviously 600mm deep, therefore a deficit of 100mm. Now, I thought of dealing with this one of two ways, one would be to stud wall it and draw the services through the boarding and run a normal sized worktop, or what would be better for us, would be to have a slightly deeper worktop at this point, as its a corner of the kitchen that won't get used a great deal and could be used to store a few extra bits.

Question is, where's best to get deeper worktops then? Most offer a 665 which should cover the main runs, my thought for the deeper section would be to order a breakfast bar run and hack it up to size, or is that a stupid idea? I won't be fitting the worktops myself, no mitre!

[northwest monkey]

Much easier & neater to channel the worktop into the wall rather than cut the worktop to fit. Most walls run out so dont worry about it

[Deva Link]

You can only really line everything up to a 600mm deep worktop - cutting a chase in the wall is the normal way although 50mm is a bit much. You might have to reduce the depth of some of the units, but if you're chopping off great chunks then be careful of how it affects the position of units around corners, and the realtionship with any wall units. If you're tiling above the worktop then that gives a bit of extra thickness to play with.

I don't get the issue about the corner unit - 1000mm corner units normally finish 100mm short of the corner, so as you go around the corner you've got the depth of half the corner unit (500mm) plus the 100mm gap = 600mm. If I've understood you correctly and that's what you're doing then make sure there's going to be clearance with the corner unit door in place for the dishwasher to open - you might need to space it away from the corner unit.

Edited by Deva Link on Saturday 18th April 23:50

[chris1roll]

We had the same issue in our house, 17th century farmhouse nothing is going to be square.
we fitted solid wood worktops, so to bridge the gap we bought another worktop and cut it into lengths with the circular saw to make an upstand to go along the back of all the worktops. Works really well.

[-C-]

Should have added, house is ~300 years old & listed, so we're a little restricted as to what & not we can & can't do. The walls are lime plastered and its not hugely thick, so can't chase the worktop that deep into the walls, also if we do it complicates things yet futher with the waste pipes. They will have to be cut to run through the actual units rather than down the service run at the back (albeit cutting through part of the carcass still.

I'll put a picture up of the plan regarding the corner unit coming up short - might make more sense than my ramblings!

Regarding the placement of the D/W - yes, will space it away from the corner unit by the means of a corner post.

Cheers

[Simpo Two]

I'd offer the worktop up to the wall so that it touches the 'high' parts, and copy the shape of the wall onto it using the wall as a guide (eg with a pencil clamped to a short price of wood). Then cut the back of the worktop to shape with a jigsaw. You'll still get some small gaps but hopefully only a few mm, so can be covered by the wall tiles later.