How much do you need to spend on a chainsaw?
Discussion
I've had a Qualcast 16" 45cc chainsaw for about 18 months now which generally did a decent job given the amount of abuse it received (site clearance and cutting sleepers). However using it at the weekend it developed a fuel leak so I replaced it with a similar model, however that one proved to be garbage, the chain tensioning mechanism was made of plastic and failed several times in a few hours throwing the chain off.
Both have now gone back for a refund and I need to replace it with a Stihl or similar one that is actually reliable. It will be used for site clearance, cutting down trees up to about 18 inches in diameter, the kind of work that isn't cost effective to get a tree surgeon to do. It might go a year without being used but it's probably worth getting something decent. It needs to be light (I am not built like a lumberjack), it needs to be safe (as far as they can be) and it needs to be reliable.
I'd be interested in any recommendations or explanations as to what features come with the more expensive saws.
Both have now gone back for a refund and I need to replace it with a Stihl or similar one that is actually reliable. It will be used for site clearance, cutting down trees up to about 18 inches in diameter, the kind of work that isn't cost effective to get a tree surgeon to do. It might go a year without being used but it's probably worth getting something decent. It needs to be light (I am not built like a lumberjack), it needs to be safe (as far as they can be) and it needs to be reliable.
I'd be interested in any recommendations or explanations as to what features come with the more expensive saws.
sparkythecat said:
Looks quite similar to the Qualcast one but if you are using it all day long and paying others to help you it becomes a false economy if it isn't reliable. I think I need something slightly better.I have a Stihl MS260 which is not a bad number. Ideal mid range Stihl for groundwork. I have had it for five years plus and the only thing I replaced recently was the fuel cap (I think the rubber seal had become distorted). I could not get just the rubber washer at short notice so bought an entire cap (~£8).
Incidentally does anyone know where to source just the rubber washer????
You can get a smaller less powerful one which is easier on the wrists if you are doing a lot of work and logging but otherwise would probably stick with something more powerful like the MS260.
Link to reviews: http://www.backyardboss.com/mfg_Stihl/MS260%20Pro....
Stihl MS260 Pro
Weight -10.6 lbs
Engine HP -3.2 bhp
Engine Displacment -50.2 cc
Bar Lengths -16" to 20"
Chain Width -325" or 3/8"
This professional grade chain saw has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and an improved air filter system. Other user-friendly features include side-access chain tensioner, IntelliCarb™ compensating carburetor, view-through fuel tank and toolless fuel and oil caps.
Pip
Incidentally does anyone know where to source just the rubber washer????
You can get a smaller less powerful one which is easier on the wrists if you are doing a lot of work and logging but otherwise would probably stick with something more powerful like the MS260.
Link to reviews: http://www.backyardboss.com/mfg_Stihl/MS260%20Pro....
Stihl MS260 Pro
Weight -10.6 lbs
Engine HP -3.2 bhp
Engine Displacment -50.2 cc
Bar Lengths -16" to 20"
Chain Width -325" or 3/8"
This professional grade chain saw has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and an improved air filter system. Other user-friendly features include side-access chain tensioner, IntelliCarb™ compensating carburetor, view-through fuel tank and toolless fuel and oil caps.
Pip
Something like this perhaps? I think a 16" bar is probably about right for the kind of things I am cutting.
https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
Muncher said:
Something like this perhaps? I think a 16" bar is probably about right for the kind of things I am cutting.
https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/62665-husky-135-stihl-ms181-2.htmlhttps://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
You want the smallest bar that will do the job.
The Husky has a bigger engine, slightly more power and so is less stressed (the Stihl boys might argue more efficient)
I am sure that will probably be fine for small jobs and limited use. It may be worth bearing in mind that you will be pruchasing a less powerful chainsaw (44 to 38cc) than your previous one and for the trees that are 18" diameter (that is quite a big tree) it will be slightly harder work but also lighter so good for logging.
Pip
Pip
The guys that I hire chippers and stump grinders from are recommending the Husqvarna 236 over the 135. It's slightly heavier but they say its performance is much the same as the 135, but a lot cheaper and to get anything significantly better is a lot more money. The 236 is only £140 at the moment.
Muncher said:
Husqvarna 236 over the 135. It's slightly heavier but they say its performance is much the same as the 135, but a lot cheaper
to get anything significantly better is a lot more money.
I don't know if they have changed the specs but when I bought my 135 (2yrs ago) everyone recommended it above the 236 - however I think the 236 was only 20-30 cheaper back then rather than the £50-60 it is now.to get anything significantly better is a lot more money.
A quick look at the spec doesn't show much but I see the "teeth" are missing for logging - I presume you can add them - might be worth checking the torque figures.
Yes - £400+ for a significant step up.
Normally called "Dawgs" in the US - and you just know you really want a Stihl 880 - with a 10" bar.
I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
guindilias said:
Normally called "Dawgs" in the US - and you just know you really want a Stihl 880 - with a 10" bar.
I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
I want a saw (and chain) that is most likely to keep all my limbs intact at the end of the day!I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
A day's use with an 880 would likely render your limbs useless - it does mine, it's VERY heavy!
But I'd go with the RSC chain any day on any saw, it is fast and aggressive, but that means less time cutting and so less fatigue - plus if you get a log that just will not split, you can lay it down and saw it lengthways, which also gives you loads of "noodles" to light the fire with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2PtW_Xc6zg
But I'd go with the RSC chain any day on any saw, it is fast and aggressive, but that means less time cutting and so less fatigue - plus if you get a log that just will not split, you can lay it down and saw it lengthways, which also gives you loads of "noodles" to light the fire with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2PtW_Xc6zg
guindilias said:
A day's use with an 880 would likely render your limbs useless - it does mine, it's VERY heavy!
But I'd go with the RSC chain any day on any saw, it is fast and aggressive, but that means less time cutting and so less fatigue - plus if you get a log that just will not split, you can lay it down and saw it lengthways, which also gives you loads of "noodles" to light the fire with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2PtW_Xc6zg
I just use a Dremel to grind the rakers down lower.But I'd go with the RSC chain any day on any saw, it is fast and aggressive, but that means less time cutting and so less fatigue - plus if you get a log that just will not split, you can lay it down and saw it lengthways, which also gives you loads of "noodles" to light the fire with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2PtW_Xc6zg
Muncher, just saw this on FB from Ernest Doe...
- Stihl Demonstration Day at Framlingham **
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