New Garage Build starts soon - Any final pointers?

[Timja]

My new garage build should start in 1-3 months (waiting for neighbours to return from European tour to discuss as knocking down party wall and disrupting their garden a lot!) i'm using a builder for the work. Lots of thoughts about all the elements to think about, but if anyone can think of different options or things I should look into now while I still have time that would be appreciated!

Builder plans to use raft foundation with extra concrete on party wall side due to trees that are there. Walls are insulated brick and light weight block. Plan will be to paint internal walls, I know there are blocks available that are meant to be better to paint. Anyone have any experience of whether its worth bothering? - they still look like a fairly uneven surface.

Electric roller shutter garage door - are insulated doors worth it? Ive seen some with sensors so if it hits something coming down the door stops, again - worth it? Any companies to recommend / avoid?

Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?

Electrics - Will have external socket for cutting grass at back, may put one near front for pressure washer but could just use extension from back, also several outside lights. Inside lighting - anyone recommend good LED lighting for good general lighting? Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider? Electrician said about running 10mm / 40A armoured cable supply from house to run power/lights/door/lift/ any heater i choose to put in in winter. Will this be enough? May just surface mount armoured cable around wall rather than dig up whole patio?

Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage? What is needed for security camera system?

Can anyone suggest a good thing to go in gutters to stop neighbours overhanging trees blocking them on one side in particular.

Any other suggestions of things to consider especially prior to construction starting would be appreciated!

[Timja]

B17NNS said:

I wouldn't even consider building a double skinned insulated garage and not fit an insulated door - choose one with the best u value you can find.

Are you insulating the slab and ceiling/roof?

Sounds like you're going to a lot of expense, why not board and skim the walls too?

Re. the tiling you'll need to wait until the slab is sufficiently dry prior to tiling. Prime the floor with SBR and use a flexible adhesive for porcelain.

I'd go with an outside double socket front and back along with outside lights that you can switch on permanently and also come on via PIR's. Inside, I'd go with a double socket in each corner plus whatever you need over the work bench.

Good point about the door - i imagine a lot of heat is lost through the door! Builder had just planned on using Aluminium roller shutter door.

Not planned on insulating the slab, obviously will be a damp proof membrane but wasnt sure how much difference it would make if tiling floor? I know it will all help but at some point i need to stop spending! haha! - Mind you i have no idea on cost. Not initially insulating roof, but plan is that at some future point I can get some Celotex type material and insulate between the trusses then board with ply/plasterboard.

I did consider board and skim walls but done really want to loose any more internal space as already smaller than i'd ideally like (also, dont have unlimited budget so have to stop somewhere!)

Thanks for other thoughts! Plans below so you can see layout.

[Timja]

Reason for using a roller shutter is so it doesn't take up much internal space so I can fit a car lift in so that rules out most other options unfortunately. Also, want to be able to park right against doors so can't have 2 outward opening side hinged doors. Not sure if there is much variety in the way roller garage doors are constructed to make them more secure or better insulated?

Yes, have had planning approved for a while. Only condition was about having to get materials approved (we are in conservation area). Builder says it's up to me but most people don't bother unless they think there will be objections, costs £80 so seems like a money making scheme to me - anyone had experience of this?

[Timja]

Bikesalot said:

£80 is a lot cheaper than having someone turn up and say all the materials don't conform.

Looking at the build I think £80 is peanuts in comparison to the whole project...

Good news is I have found out it is actually £28! So even better. £80 is not much compared to overall cost but all these things add up! Spoke to council today and process doesn't sounds as bad as builder made it out to be, may be able to get away with just sending photos and specs rather than having to go up there with a load of samples. The conservation officer lives up the road so I imagine will be keeping an eye on it so better do it by the book

[Timja]

Dave_ST220 said:

I wouldn't use thermalite blocks for the internals of a garage, they chip way too easily.

Good point. I have had problems with those in the past! I will confirm exactly what he is using, the ones he showed me didn't look like thermalite, they were more light weight concrete blocks.

[Timja]

big ant said:

Insulation - double skin is advisable, but why insulate ? I'd of thought, you either insulate all surfaces as per a house construction....or none.

Car lift - what internal roof height you looking at achieving ? Have you sourced a car lift yet ?

'Soft' thermalites - is a good point raised earlier.

Garage door - because of the car lift I assume; is there an alternative, ignoring opening outwards doors ?

BA

Take various points about insulation. All or nothing approach really. Want to keep it as regular a temp as possible and avoid condensation etc in winter as well as be warm if I'm working in there in the winter. Will go for insulated door and do roof myself once builder finished.

Off the top of my head I think we calculated around 3.4m height 2m wide in middle for cars to stack which allows for 1 sports car and 1 normal size car! Planning to get a 4 post, been looking at a couple of lifts recommended on other threads automotech and SJR. But not looked too much yet.

With garage doors I'm looking at SWS SeceuroGlide Excel http://www.sws.co.uk/products/seceuroglide/roller-... I'm not aware (other than ones than go round inside of internal wall) of any options that don't block where a lift would go or don't allow a car right up to the front so probably have to Get roller shutters. Ones above are meant to be quite secure however.

[Timja]

Thanks for all the advice and feedback.on doors and sockets

I will have to check what the garage door company require for electrics. The plan is for a 10mm 3 core armoured cable - 40A supply to run into garage to power lights, sockets, car lift, garage door. Does this sound big enough?

How many internal lights do you think are required for a garage this size (4m x 6m)? Was thinking 4x1.8m LED light fittings plus one smaller one above work bench.

Garage floor tiles I was planning to use are: http://www.directtilewarehouse.com/dotti-anti-slip... which I have seen discussed on other threads. Not decided yet if i'd bother with the tile skirting – probably save the cost.

NickCW – The roof is designed to have a raised tie so there are no beams going across and giving full height ready for a lift, which means no loft space. The garage is only a wide single.Will look at the app connectivity options, could be tempted if not too expensive, otherwise im sure having a remote will be sufficient.

[Timja]

elanfan said:

Can you link to an outside drain? A small corner sink to clean your hands before going back in the house might keep her indoors happier and also allow you to make a cuppa and wash your mugs ( never ever to be used to pee in when caught short - ever.)

The garage is just at the end of the garden and we have a utility room so I wasn't going to bother with a sink as its just additional cost/something to go wrong plus i don't drink tea/coffee so quite happy to live without a kettle. The rainwater will be linked to the drains so I could potentially get a sink in, but would take up space for storage etc.and I think there will be a limited number of times I will require running water.... it would be handy i'm sure occasionally but possibly just one think I can live without... no doubting it would be handy just would probably put money towards something else.

[Timja]

elanfan said:

And add a tap for your pressure washing, car rinsing, garden watering

Already an outside tap about 10m from the new garage so will just run hose from there to wash cars as I currently do i think.

[Timja]

Craikeybaby said:

I ran a water pipe (and network cabling) in the duct for the electrics when I had my garage built, I haven't connected it, but the cost is negligible at this stage and could save a lot of money down the line.

Out of interest, how many network cables did you run and can you get armoured nework cables? I understand what you are saying about the water, but presumably this then requires me to run the pipes into the house to connect up and as the electric cable is planned to be surface mounted (clipped to wall) rather than digging up the whole patio for 25m then not sure how much of a saving doing the water pipe now there would be?

[Timja]

Evoquative said:

Definitely worth thinking about the provision for a higher electrical capacity, even if it is not used yet. An awful lot of new cars are going to be fully electric or plug-in hybrids in the next 10 years and the ability to charge them in garage (or just outside it will get important to you or future buyers). Having a cable that can take it in the first place is good future proofing. General good standard of chargers take a 32 amp connection.

Good idea, I'm sure it will go that way so makes sense to not need to redo in future for the sake of a slightly larger supply now. I'll check with electrician if 40A 10mm cable is big enough.