My trip to the top of Everest

My trip to the top of Everest

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UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
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I've been slack at getting round to the next stage of this, but here we go.

After the success of the European mountains, it was time to head to Nepal to experience an 8,000m peak. This is obviously quite a step change from doing a mountain in two or three days. These peaks take weeks, living in a tent at base camp, lots of rotations to camps higher up the mountain to get your body used to being higher up and encourage the production of red blood cells. We'd be having to melt snow for our water on little camping stoves, learn to use oxygen masks and work with Sherpa support.
Manaslu is the world's 8th highest and considered the 'easiest' of the 8,000m mountains, so is often used by people like me who are planning on taking on Everest: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manaslu

The first thing that I still to this day find amazing is the amount of kit I needed to make sure I had. I still remember like it was yesterday laying all this stuff out and making sure I had everything:



Mrs UTH took came with me to Heathrow which ended in a goodbye with her in tears which wasn't the most enjoyable thing to see, as I was heading off on my own on a trip which, we had to be honest, had a chance of having a bleak ending.
The plan was to fly to Kathmandu where I'd meet up with the expedition leader, the other 'client' climber who I'd never met as well as the main guide who would be with us on the mountain. We'd stay at the hotel for a couple of nights before starting the expedition.

We take a helicopter from Kathmandu straight to Samaguan which is a little village below Manaslu







From the helicopter I get my first view of the Himalayas and my first experience of seriously big mountains





At Samaguan you suddenly get an idea of all the supplies and provisions required on an expedition




UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
quotequote all
We spend a few days at the village - we've gone up in elevation a fair bit so letting our bodies get used to this before we start the trek to basecamp. During our days here we take a few hikes around the area to gain a bit more elevation and just spend some time there, all in the name of acclimatisation and staying fit.







For our days at the village, Manaslu itself was annoyingly hidden by clouds, but we occasionally got a very quick peak of what was towering over us





Much to my relief, cards and beers are still a thing on these trips



A second day of general trekking around keeping active






UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
quotequote all
After our time at the village, it was time to head to basecamp. Unlike a basecamp trek to Everest, this is only a matter of hours from the village rather than days and days of trekking





Interesting fact, the first time this mountain was ever climbed, this was built as a basecamp hut, WAY below where basecamp now is





After about 5 or 6 hours of trekking uphill, we get our first glimpse of basecamp. We were warned that Manaslu BC can be a very wet place to be, and our arrival confirmed that!



Our first visit into the dining tent, where we would spend many many hours in the weeks ahead


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
quotequote all
Early into our trip the ceremony to bless the team and our expedition took place



And the weather started to clear so we could actually see what was our new home as well as all the way back down to where we had come from







With clearing weather we finally get to see the giant mountain properly. Before this it had been totally covered by cloud, so it was very strange waking up to find this absolute monster sitting above us





We then start doing our trips further up the "hill", first one to 'crampon point' where the snow starts



5,000m reached for the first time:



Next day we make our first trip up to camp 1. All the while the mountain looms over us







Back down at basecamp we were making a bit of a damn to use the small hydro electric pump we had.....relying on only solar power at Manaslu is never ideal, so our expedition leader's experience over the years meant he knew how to get more power


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
quotequote all
The following day was our first trip to camp 1 to spend the night, which involved our first experience of carrying some gear up with us, adding a fair bit of weight to our trip!







Our bed for the night.....always being watched over



And first time doing something we'd do a lot of - melting snow for water bottles



Pretty good view from the camp 1 tent





The top of the mountain looked pretty cool at sunset. Or was it sunrise. Can't actually remember





I think it must have been dawn



And a good look at what was surrounding us with clear skies



And a bit of ladder work for the first time



Starting to feel like a proper climb



Back at basecamp I demanded a picture with the expedition leader and world famous Sherpa Phurba Tashi, who was acting as basecamp manager on this trip



And a team shot with the main goal behind us


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
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Shame, PH doesn't seem to like that photo.

Will carry on the story as soon as I can.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 11th July 2023
quotequote all
I’m aware that it’s a slow build up to the really cool bits, just takes a while to trawl through everything!


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 12th July 2023
quotequote all
Jake899 said:
Really enjoying this thread, thank you for taking the time to share your adventures!

Forgive the questions;
Around the time you climbed, Everest had a bit of a reputation as an unregulated wild west.
Did you have any issues regarding oxygen supply? Everybody got what they paid for, and all the gear worked ok?
Any stories of theft on the mountain? This was a massive issue at basecamp and even further up the mountain for many years.
You did absolutely the right thing by not going budget, those doing it on a shoestring usually end up becoming a liability for everyone else.
Was anyone trying to mooch off your team on the way up?

Funny how long these adventures can keep you inspired.
I did a year in east Africa (including a trip to the mountains) which was 13 years ago now and i'm still buzzing from all the crazy scrapes i got myself into.
Don't be sorry, I'd have questions if someone had posted a thread like this a few years ago!
The wild west element is somewhat true. Our team had some oxygen bottles stolen at camp 4, as well as a tent. This happens every year, pretty much down to the, frankly, st cheapo operators (mostly out of Nepal itself) who simply don't plan enough for their own trip, so when it comes to it they think it's fine for them to just go around stealing at the top camp. As you can imagine, at 8,000m it's not exactly possible to have 'security' guarding your stuff and checking for people on the steal. It's a disgrace, and can and will lead to deaths at some point as people find they don't have the supplies they expected to find at their own camp.
The year we were there we heard of some issues with people's oxygen regulators which was not good. Luckily we were absolutely fine, but some people's equipment didn't work properly, which again is very dangerous at that altitude.
Sadly Everest is getting worse every year for crowds, stealing of equipment and the sheer scale of rubbish left from basecamp all the way to the top. When we were at basecamp we'd spend some free time just going around basecamp with bin bags picking up litter. Russell who ran our company was one of the first people to pioneer this expedition style of doing Everest, so he'd been there from the beginning and HATED seeing what people were doing to the place, so always encouraged us to do whatever we could in terms of cleaning up. We didn't leave a single trace of our team on the mountain.
As an aside, it's the base camp trekkers who are some of the worst for leaving rubbish.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 12th July 2023
quotequote all
Jake899 said:
UTH said:
Don't be sorry, I'd have questions if someone had posted a thread like this a few years ago!
The wild west element is somewhat true. Our team had some oxygen bottles stolen at camp 4, as well as a tent. This happens every year, pretty much down to the, frankly, st cheapo operators (mostly out of Nepal itself) who simply don't plan enough for their own trip, so when it comes to it they think it's fine for them to just go around stealing at the top camp. As you can imagine, at 8,000m it's not exactly possible to have 'security' guarding your stuff and checking for people on the steal. It's a disgrace, and can and will lead to deaths at some point as people find they don't have the supplies they expected to find at their own camp.
The year we were there we heard of some issues with people's oxygen regulators which was not good. Luckily we were absolutely fine, but some people's equipment didn't work properly, which again is very dangerous at that altitude.
Sadly Everest is getting worse every year for crowds, stealing of equipment and the sheer scale of rubbish left from basecamp all the way to the top. When we were at basecamp we'd spend some free time just going around basecamp with bin bags picking up litter. Russell who ran our company was one of the first people to pioneer this expedition style of doing Everest, so he'd been there from the beginning and HATED seeing what people were doing to the place, so always encouraged us to do whatever we could in terms of cleaning up. We didn't leave a single trace of our team on the mountain.
As an aside, it's the base camp trekkers who are some of the worst for leaving rubbish.
I can't imagine the disappointment of going all that way and spending all that money just to find your regulator didn't work. I believe at that time there was only one supplier who claimed to have the license to exclusively provide oxygen for Everest (turns out he didn't) and he was a bit of a, shall we say chancer?. Something about using Russian high altitude aircraft tanks? Anyways, I'm very glad your trip worked out and you got up and more importantly down safely.
The rubbish and theft issue is still saddening and won't change until the Nepalese government start regulating things better. Climbers bring a huge amount to the economy.
I know that Russell was heavily involved in the development of the system we used. As it was years ago now I can't actually remember what the verdict was on why so many people's kit failed. I know Russ has a pretty clear answer about it, as well as a reason why ours were of course fine but a lot of others weren't....may well be what you said above.
Indeed, the government is a shambles from what Russ used to talk about, corruption, constant revolving door of new ministers etc and like you say, the ££ available through Everest is so big, they just want to keep milking the cash cow. For one they should limit the number of permits so they don't have the huge queues, but that means missing out on money, so that'll never happen!

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Monday 17th July 2023
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Got a few mins to get a bit more up:

Next up was our first trip up to camp 2 where we'd be carrying up a fair amount of kit to then leave in our camp 2 tents as this stuff would only be needed when heading to the top.

This was the hardest part of the trip, starting early from camp 1









The next day we made a rekkie towards camp 3 to get a bit more elevation before returning to camp 2





And as you can imagine some good views from camp 2








UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Monday 17th July 2023
quotequote all
I think these are just random shots I took on our trip down from Camp 2 to the bottom







On our way down the route the fixed rope took went under an area that was starting to drop a lot of ice and rock, so we had to help do an impromptu change of route.....this is my fellow climbing 'client' Frank taking some new rope down




UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Monday 17th July 2023
quotequote all
After a bit of resting at basecamp we were ready to head for the top. From memory I think we went base camp to camp 1, camp 1 to camp 2 where it was decided we'd only rest there for a bit then head straight for camp 3. Which made that day seriously long, but put us in a good position to head for the summit from camp 3.
Our guide Richie had developed a weird pain in his arm so he decided to stay at basecamp and run things from there, which meant that Phurba Tashi tapped in to lead us up the mountain. He'd 'retired' from doing 8,000m summits, so this was an amazing one off chance for me to be climbing one on one with one of the most famous sherpas in the world!

Phurba doing a bit of ladder fixing on the way up



And some more general shots of the route up



Photos don't really do it justice but this section of the route was called the hourglass and was steep and tiresome





Quick pause at camp 2 before moving on up again











Time to bed down before waking up before dawn for the summit push:


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Monday 17th July 2023
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SUMMIT DAY!!

Waking up before dawn, can't remember exactly what time, and we headed out. We'd been well prepared and this meant we were the first ones of the season to be heading to the top, so we were breaking trail and we were heading up before the usual camp 4 had even been setup, so we were well ahead of everyone else on the mountain.















Frank heading up a bit behind me



Feels like it's getting closer, but it's still a long way off







I'm stopped here at what's called the false summit. There's a bit of contention over the summit of Manaslu, because the bit behind me that is the true summit is only accessed by climbing what is essentially just a slope of fairly loose snow. So many climbed who have got to the 'top' of Manaslu have actually only got to the false summit where I'm sitting. Luckily having Phurba Tashi with me as one of the most experienced there has ever been meant that he was happy to go and fix a rope to take us to the true summit





Phurba's summit shot



My shot, first time at over 8,000m!







Uninterrupted view above the clouds




I then headed back to the false summit and Frank went up



So after our success and being a true boozy brit, I had it firmly in my mind that if there was any chance of enjoying a beer that night, lets make it happen. So Phurba and I agreed we'd go as quickly as we could and get from summit to BaseCamp in one push.....so off we went at pace! No time for any photos on the way down, but we managed to get there in near pitch black by the time we arrived, but it was time to open the cigar and whisky I'd picked up at the airport for this exact moment. Sadly Frank was a little slower to he and his Sherpa stayed at camp 3 for the night and would head down in the morning




And that was it really. We stayed at basecamp one more night I think, a few more beers etc, then packed off and headed back down to the village for a night, then helicopter back to Kathmandu to carry on celebrating with many many beers and nice food, then headed home!

So, having competed all of this......next up was EVEREST

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Tuesday 18th July 2023
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Thanks guys, sorry this is becoming do dragged out, will hopefully crack on with the Everest bit next week as I'm off on hols tomorrow.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 19th July 2023
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MonkeyBusiness said:
This is brilliant.
Can I ask what sort of weight you are carrying up the mountain?

The oxygen bottles alone must weigh a few KG.
The heaviest load on both Manaslu and Everest up to camp 2 where we dumped the summit kit must have been about 20kg from what I remember.

On summit day you don't carry too much, just a couple of o2 bottles, maybe a water bottle and extra pair of gloves, so that's less than 10kg.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 19th July 2023
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ben5575 said:
Such an incredible and inspiring thread and adventure! Thank you for taking the time to write it all up smile

Can I be a little cheeky and ask if you could add in the approximate heights of the various base camps and the approximate times you were at them please? So for example it would really help to comprehend the magnitude of what you did with a 'after about a week at base camp we then...' or for example on your summit day we left camp 3 at xx m to hit the summit at 8,000m then made it back to base camp at yy m that night. I can't tell from your posts how long you were on the mountain in total, under canvas at the various base camps.

I only suggest it as it's so hard for us normal people to grasp the sheer time and ascents/descents involved.

Amazing thread bow
I'm going to dig out my diary and get the exact heights of each for Manaslu and Everest so I can let you know accurately.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Friday 11th August 2023
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Soft Top said:
No pressure wink BUT many still watching and waiting for more. Appreciate you are busy but we need more smile
It's worrying how often this thread crosses my mind and how guilty I feel that I haven't got around to the main event yet! LOL

Rest assured, it has not been forgotten, next week should see some clear space in the diary.

UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 16th August 2023
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Right, got a few mins to get my arse in gear with the final bit!

Having done Manaslu and being told that I was ready for Everest, I had about 5 months back in England with no job (my previous place told me if I wanted to head off climbing for a month I'd need to hand my notice in - bit surprising after 4.5 years service and it costing money and time to replace me when I was back a month later, but that's another story).
I basically filled my day by running every day, only about 5km to keep my fitness level high, then 30 mins in the gym doing a lot of leg work. There were times where I did say to myself that surely a 5km run every day and some leg strengthening wasn't enough to get to the top of Everest, but Manaslu had been well within my limits, so I just stuck to it.

I was very lucky in that my Dad told me that if I did complete Manaslu and headed off to Everest, he'd come on the base camp trek. Not sure he was overly thrilled when it turned out that I did manage it, but there we go, he had to come!!
So, March 2018, we headed off!



Picked up the now traditional bottle of Lagavulin and Cigar to open IF I made it to the top:



Dad was VERY kind and said that as this was a once in a lifetime thing, we'd go business class! So for my first and probably only time, I was able to sit at an actual bar/table in a plane! So we had a look at the trekking map



We had a couple of days in Kathmandu having met up with the rest of the trekking/climbing team in the hotel. As I'd done this before for the Manaslu trip, I took these two days to pretty much sit around the pool and just relax while the rest of the group went into the town to buy last minute stuff etc. No photos of me just sitting by a pool, unsurprisingly.

After a couple of days, it was time to head off. First up, helicopter to Namche:





We spent one night here, time for any very last minute shopping of kit, a few beers (maybe too many for some of us) in the local Irish bar and then the next day the trekking began:



The journey from Namche to our first stop was pretty short, can't have been more than a couple of hours or so, but it still made a few people realise they were out of their depth and organise helicopters back to Kathmandu and then home!! I must say this was a surprise to see our group already shedding people after such a short amount of time!



Through the gap at our first stop you could see Ama Dablam, the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas" apparently





We did some wandering around the little village we were staying that night, and saw Phurba Tashi riding a Yak!











First of many posing shots in front of epic scenery!



We made our first little wander out of the village to head to what is a very famous spot, the Everest View Hotel



Sitting on the balcony having a beer, it was the first time I was going to lay eyes on Everest! The clouds didn't make it too easy though





It was certainly quite a moment for the first time seeing with my own eyes the thing I'd be training so hard for. And it did look very far away, hard to believe I was aiming to get to the top of that thing that was miles away in the clouds.


UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 16th August 2023
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As you can imagine, the trekking went on in much the same vein of walking a few hours each day, stopping in little villages for a day, sometimes two.....slowly getting higher in altitude





This is supposedly a Yeti head!





















As you can imagine most of the lodges we stayed in were very basic, but then we stayed in one that had wine and a card machine!!! We went a little nuts that night




UTH

Original Poster:

9,056 posts

180 months

Wednesday 16th August 2023
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Steady progress being made, next milestone was 4,620m altitude



Anyone who has seen the film Everest or read some of the books around the 1996 disaster will know this name



You can just about see in the distance our first 'base camp'. Something that our company did that no others did was stop for a couple of nights at the base of Lobuche for a few days before we finally arrived in actual Everest Basecamp. This was mainly so the climbers could do their acclimatisation on Lobuche rather than what everyone else did which was heading up to camp 1 of Everest. Camp 1 meant you had to go through the Khumbu Icefall which is very dangerous and where most deaths happen, so if you can minimise your trips through there, you're going to be safer, and Lobuche gets you as high as camp 1, so it was a no brainer.



Behind me you can just about see Pumori which is opposite Everest. We still hadn't seen Everest since that day at the Everest view Hotel though



The climbers (me, one other client and our guide) took a trip up to 'camp 1' of Lobuche just to have a look around and of course keep moving and fit



Our tent had already been setup, and in a few days we'd be heading back here to stay the night then head to the top of lobuche for our first proper acclimatisation rotation