Wrx PPP wagon - taking me a while to find
Discussion
Zaim said:
Totally agree with you and this is why I didn't get it done and (one of the reasons) why I sold it now.
I agree that the cambelt being done would've been a bonus but it'll need new tyres in 10K miles plus anything else that may fail in the meantime. With it done if would still be £3.5K and I still would've sold it for less because the £3.5K gives me room for haggling on the price that I know is going to happen.
Hated selling it, hated it even more when each buyer said it's a very nice car, I know it is (was).
If you're buying any of these at this age (10 odd years old) then you'll need to factor in a bit of cash for the work that hasn't been done and any upgrades that'll need doing. That would be the case of any car at this price.
Which further reminds me....anyone in need of a Prodrive sportscat down pipe? I've no idea where I'm going to sell that!
Yes please. Pm me if you want?I agree that the cambelt being done would've been a bonus but it'll need new tyres in 10K miles plus anything else that may fail in the meantime. With it done if would still be £3.5K and I still would've sold it for less because the £3.5K gives me room for haggling on the price that I know is going to happen.
Hated selling it, hated it even more when each buyer said it's a very nice car, I know it is (was).
If you're buying any of these at this age (10 odd years old) then you'll need to factor in a bit of cash for the work that hasn't been done and any upgrades that'll need doing. That would be the case of any car at this price.
Which further reminds me....anyone in need of a Prodrive sportscat down pipe? I've no idea where I'm going to sell that!
ScoobieWRX said:
rb5er said:
ScoobieWRX said:
It is high mileage, due a cambelt in 10K milesl.
Just curious how do you know it needs the cambelt done in 10k? Do you know the car or have you personally spoken to the seller?I don`t think anyone would reduce the price of a car because it is due a cambelt in a year or so time though.
These cars really don`t seem to be hanging around long do they, all getting snapped up very quickly. Must be quite sought after, they are a serious amount of practical performance car for not much money.
Just bought an 04 wagon. Completely standard. 2 owners full subaru history. 76k
Pics to follow. Time to look for some bits; what air box is reccomended. I'm either after a prodrive exhaust or similair (not too loud) what are my options? Anything else before a re-map to around ppp power?
Thanks guys.
Excited, much.
TB
Pics to follow. Time to look for some bits; what air box is reccomended. I'm either after a prodrive exhaust or similair (not too loud) what are my options? Anything else before a re-map to around ppp power?
Thanks guys.
Excited, much.
TB
Factory airbox is fine. You just need a high flow flat panel air filter from K&N or Green Panel to replace the factory one. You have 3 cats on your WRX. One in the uppipe that need decatting, and one in the scrubber cat after the main cat. Leaving the main cat(in the downpipe) in place ensures you get through emissions testing come MOT time. Quality remap and you should see 270-280bhp and plenty of torque. Job done.
ScoobieWRX said:
Factory airbox is fine. You just need a high flow flat panel air filter from K&N or Green Panel to replace the factory one. You have 3 cats on your WRX. One in the uppipe that need decatting, and one in the scrubber cat after the main cat. Leaving the main cat(in the downpipe) in place ensures you get through emissions testing come MOT time. Quality remap and you should see 270-280bhp and plenty of torque. Job done.
Roger. So filter looks straight forward. The de-catting: do I de-car the standard exhaust and change the back box or do I buy a new exhaust system or are both options?
Thanks for the info.
You don't need to go completely decat to get good power and torque. Decat Uppipe and scrubber cat replacement pipe is all you need. Going fully decat is great and no harm in doing that unless you're going to struggle to get the car through emissions testing come MOT time. If you don't have an MOT friendly garage you're better sticking with leaving the main cat in place.
In WRX form it has to be said that the 2.5's have the edge. You still get the TD04 turbo as in the 2ltr, and it has to be said, once mapped that TD04 is a giggle. Shedloads of torque from way low down and it becomes a cracking good overtaking car, but the turbo does start to run out of puff fairly quickly on these come 5000+rpm. You get AVCS as well which when calibrated properly provides even more low down torque awesomeness. Goes like stink when it's done. I prefer the WRX in 2.5ltr guise, and the Hawkeye is a good looking car too, specially in wagon form.
ETA: You'll only start to think about engine lasting when you get past the 320-330bhp mark. There are plenty of 2.5 STi's mapped to 400bhp on standard internals and are just fine. There are a few however that have problems and even at 320-330bhp go pop. WRX wise though i wouldn't worry about it as it's not an issue with these. Buy one and enjoy it
In WRX form it has to be said that the 2.5's have the edge. You still get the TD04 turbo as in the 2ltr, and it has to be said, once mapped that TD04 is a giggle. Shedloads of torque from way low down and it becomes a cracking good overtaking car, but the turbo does start to run out of puff fairly quickly on these come 5000+rpm. You get AVCS as well which when calibrated properly provides even more low down torque awesomeness. Goes like stink when it's done. I prefer the WRX in 2.5ltr guise, and the Hawkeye is a good looking car too, specially in wagon form.
ETA: You'll only start to think about engine lasting when you get past the 320-330bhp mark. There are plenty of 2.5 STi's mapped to 400bhp on standard internals and are just fine. There are a few however that have problems and even at 320-330bhp go pop. WRX wise though i wouldn't worry about it as it's not an issue with these. Buy one and enjoy it
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Tuesday 15th January 23:09
Just found an old post from Graham Martin (aka enginemapper.co.uk):
"The 2.5L nets 330lb/ft+ and 250-270bhp depending on mods. The 2L is more like 280lb/ft and 260-280bhp. Out of each of those I'd pick the 2.5L as a road car any day, with just a map on they have excellent tractability.
I did a hawkeye WRX on the test mule thread, that should give you some ideas. They get even more amazing after a decat up pipe and turbo back and you can see more like 370+lb/ft, which is immense in a road car when it pulls from 3000rpm.
The other benefit of the 2.5L WRX is it has intake AVCS as standard which is really the key to opening up the low-end grunt on them.
Graham"
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/9047...
"The 2.5L nets 330lb/ft+ and 250-270bhp depending on mods. The 2L is more like 280lb/ft and 260-280bhp. Out of each of those I'd pick the 2.5L as a road car any day, with just a map on they have excellent tractability.
I did a hawkeye WRX on the test mule thread, that should give you some ideas. They get even more amazing after a decat up pipe and turbo back and you can see more like 370+lb/ft, which is immense in a road car when it pulls from 3000rpm.
The other benefit of the 2.5L WRX is it has intake AVCS as standard which is really the key to opening up the low-end grunt on them.
Graham"
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/9047...
ScoobieWRX said:
You don't need to go completely decat to get good power and torque. Decat Uppipe and scrubber cat replacement pipe is all you need. Going fully decat is great and no harm in doing that unless you're going to struggle to get the car through emissions testing come MOT time. If you don't have an MOT friendly garage you're better sticking with leaving the main cat in place.
In WRX form it has to be said that the 2.5's have the edge. You still get the TD04 turbo as in the 2ltr, and it has to be said, once mapped that TD04 is a giggle. Shedloads of torque from way low down and it becomes a cracking good overtaking car, but the turbo does start to run out of puff fairly quickly on these come 5000+rpm. You get AVCS as well which when calibrated properly provides even more low down torque awesomeness. Goes like stink when it's done. I prefer the WRX in 2.5ltr guise, and the Hawkeye is a good looking car too, specially in wagon form.
ETA: You'll only start to think about engine lasting when you get past the 320-330bhp mark. There are plenty of 2.5 STi's mapped to 400bhp on standard internals and are just fine. There are a few however that have problems and even at 320-330bhp go pop. WRX wise though i wouldn't worry about it as it's not an issue with these. Buy one and enjoy it
I think I understand that the cat in the down pipe is the main cat and to get through mot I should leave this one in place. In WRX form it has to be said that the 2.5's have the edge. You still get the TD04 turbo as in the 2ltr, and it has to be said, once mapped that TD04 is a giggle. Shedloads of torque from way low down and it becomes a cracking good overtaking car, but the turbo does start to run out of puff fairly quickly on these come 5000+rpm. You get AVCS as well which when calibrated properly provides even more low down torque awesomeness. Goes like stink when it's done. I prefer the WRX in 2.5ltr guise, and the Hawkeye is a good looking car too, specially in wagon form.
ETA: You'll only start to think about engine lasting when you get past the 320-330bhp mark. There are plenty of 2.5 STi's mapped to 400bhp on standard internals and are just fine. There are a few however that have problems and even at 320-330bhp go pop. WRX wise though i wouldn't worry about it as it's not an issue with these. Buy one and enjoy it
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Tuesday 15th January 23:09
You are suggesting replacing the up pipe and 'scrubber' cat which is the cat located after the down pipe? I'm new to imprezas so sorry for all the questions!
Viewed this one today: http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/use...
Seller hadn't tidied it up much, so a little tatty. Bonnet was covered in stone chips (doesn't that usually mean a tailgater?), and the Prodrive back box had been replaced with a loud farty popper. Along with the fact it had a sunroof fitted which reduced the headroom so my head was on it, and he wouldn't budge from £6K I left...
Seller hadn't tidied it up much, so a little tatty. Bonnet was covered in stone chips (doesn't that usually mean a tailgater?), and the Prodrive back box had been replaced with a loud farty popper. Along with the fact it had a sunroof fitted which reduced the headroom so my head was on it, and he wouldn't budge from £6K I left...
bonesX said:
Viewed this one today: http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/use...
Seller hadn't tidied it up much, so a little tatty. Bonnet was covered in stone chips (doesn't that usually mean a tailgater?), and the Prodrive back box had been replaced with a loud farty popper. Along with the fact it had a sunroof fitted which reduced the headroom so my head was on it, and he wouldn't budge from £6K I left...
You saved me a trip next week then Seller hadn't tidied it up much, so a little tatty. Bonnet was covered in stone chips (doesn't that usually mean a tailgater?), and the Prodrive back box had been replaced with a loud farty popper. Along with the fact it had a sunroof fitted which reduced the headroom so my head was on it, and he wouldn't budge from £6K I left...
There's a good looking silver bugeye in Swindon which looks very smart in the photos but has an exhaust you might find a tramp sleeping in. If my GTI sells on the weekend I'll probably go and have a look and report back.
If you think it's hard to find a good wagon, try looking for a Forester XT!
If you think it's hard to find a good wagon, try looking for a Forester XT!
Cactussed said:
Hi.
Ideally what you need to do is remove the cats from the up-pipe just before the turbo and the scrubber immediately after the turbo. Leave the last cat in place for emissions purposes.
then fit a new higher flowing back box and get a remap. Job done.
Thanks for the info but this isn't what I believed to be the case. I believe the main cat is in the down pipe just after the turbo followed by the scrubber cat which is just after the down pipe. My research suggests to get through mot I leave the down pipe (with the main cat within it) in place and get rid of the cat in the up pipe and he cat located just after the down pipe.Ideally what you need to do is remove the cats from the up-pipe just before the turbo and the scrubber immediately after the turbo. Leave the last cat in place for emissions purposes.
then fit a new higher flowing back box and get a remap. Job done.
Am I right or am I wrong?!?!!!
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