Nut & Spring Washer or Nyloc Nut?
Discussion
When restored my Lancer Turbo, anything that had spring washers and nuts were replaced with nylocs, even though it went against what was originally in situe (which was put there in the early 80's).
My one mistake was considering using Stainless Steel bolts for the suspension rebuild, I was reliably informed that they have less tensile strength than regular steel and not adviseable to use them.
My one mistake was considering using Stainless Steel bolts for the suspension rebuild, I was reliably informed that they have less tensile strength than regular steel and not adviseable to use them.
Sadly, you were either mis-informed or rather not told the full story.
Bolts are graded by tensile strength unless they are cheap ungraded stuff, which you should never use in such a strength critical area.
ie. A stainless 10mm 8.8 bolt has the same tensile strength as a carbon steel 10mm 8.8 bolt.
Where stainless fares less well is under heat cycles as in when used on an exhaust, they very readily seize up, even when copaslipped.
Bolts are graded by tensile strength unless they are cheap ungraded stuff, which you should never use in such a strength critical area.
ie. A stainless 10mm 8.8 bolt has the same tensile strength as a carbon steel 10mm 8.8 bolt.
Where stainless fares less well is under heat cycles as in when used on an exhaust, they very readily seize up, even when copaslipped.
I've always been under the impression that stainless bolts for suspension are a total no-no due to them being more likely to fracture under stress, whereas "normal" bolts will bend first?
Both my kitcars have used Nylocs throughout , and I've never seen any of them loosen or fail.
Edit: upon reading up a bit it seems that stainless is more susceptible to fatigue caused by cyclic stress, so if that's correct then it would put me off using them on suspension fixings.
Both my kitcars have used Nylocs throughout , and I've never seen any of them loosen or fail.
Edit: upon reading up a bit it seems that stainless is more susceptible to fatigue caused by cyclic stress, so if that's correct then it would put me off using them on suspension fixings.
Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 7th January 11:27
E-bmw said:
Sadly, you were either mis-informed or rather not told the full story.
Bolts are graded by tensile strength unless they are cheap ungraded stuff, which you should never use in such a strength critical area.
ie. A stainless 10mm 8.8 bolt has the same tensile strength as a carbon steel 10mm 8.8 bolt.
Where stainless fares less well is under heat cycles as in when used on an exhaust, they very readily seize up, even when copaslipped.
You generally don't get stainless 8.8/10.9/12.9 bolts off the shelf however, they're usually just rated A2/A4 or A4-80 if you're lucky, all of which are quite soft.Bolts are graded by tensile strength unless they are cheap ungraded stuff, which you should never use in such a strength critical area.
ie. A stainless 10mm 8.8 bolt has the same tensile strength as a carbon steel 10mm 8.8 bolt.
Where stainless fares less well is under heat cycles as in when used on an exhaust, they very readily seize up, even when copaslipped.
PhillipM said:
You generally don't get stainless 8.8/10.9/12.9 bolts off the shelf however, they're usually just rated A2/A4 or A4-80 if you're lucky, all of which are quite soft.
An A4-80 is close to, but slightly weaker in tensile and yield strength than an 8.8. A2-70 is weaker again, though still far better than the unmarked cheese fasteners you can buy in B&Q etc.Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff