Outer CV joint stuck in hub, what next?
Discussion
Hi folks, I've a front wheel bearing to do in a Honda Jazz I recently acquired, the problem being I can't get the CV joint free from the hub. Started out with a hub puller (the type that bolts to the hub) and impact wrench (half decent CP air powered one), then hammered the hell out of the puller, then engine on and brakes pressed on and a breaker bar with extension lever on the puller, more hammering, heat, WD40, air hammer, bigger air hammer and finally a drive round the yard full lock/heavy braking with the nut on very loosely. It's still not budging!
Any more suggestions? Thinking about parking next to a wall and using a Porta-power against the axle though not sure if the WW2 walls of our garage will cope .
Thanks in advance!
Any more suggestions? Thinking about parking next to a wall and using a Porta-power against the axle though not sure if the WW2 walls of our garage will cope .
Thanks in advance!
Don't know whether the Jazz has a different setup, but other Hondas have a straight forward setup where the stub axle is secured with a hub nut. There are no extra circlips of unusual tricks to remove them. You just remove the nut and press the axle out of the hub. It may need several tons force, plus penetrating oil, and time for the oil to soak in, and I think your approach of applying a big preload with a puller and then hitting it with a big hammer is a sensible approach. If you get completely stumped, you could take the brakes off and take the whole upright/drive shaft assembly to somebody with a press.
ETA Don't know what size puller you're using or how tight you're doing it, but you could easily need 5+ tons. If you aren't sure whether your puller is up to that sort of force - get a bigger one!
ETA Don't know what size puller you're using or how tight you're doing it, but you could easily need 5+ tons. If you aren't sure whether your puller is up to that sort of force - get a bigger one!
I'm fairly confident there's nothing else holding it in place. This is the tool I'm using, in the 10 or so years I've had it it's never let me down!
To answer the question about the bottom ball joint, nope, it's still on. The nut started to round with the open end of the spanner so my initial plan was to get a bit clearance between it and the C V joint to get the ring on (I've always used this method on Vauxhall, Saabs and probably a few more without issue, can't see this jalopy being any different). I don't want to cut the nut off and make the car unmovable yet - plus the added cost of a new arm!
I've thought about getting a 10 ton hydraulic puller like this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Hydraulic-Bearing... but from what I've read online it might not be man enough. I guess the other option could be split the outer CV if I can or pull the shaft , cut the ball joint nut off carefully and try and find a man with a bigger press!
To answer the question about the bottom ball joint, nope, it's still on. The nut started to round with the open end of the spanner so my initial plan was to get a bit clearance between it and the C V joint to get the ring on (I've always used this method on Vauxhall, Saabs and probably a few more without issue, can't see this jalopy being any different). I don't want to cut the nut off and make the car unmovable yet - plus the added cost of a new arm!
I've thought about getting a 10 ton hydraulic puller like this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Hydraulic-Bearing... but from what I've read online it might not be man enough. I guess the other option could be split the outer CV if I can or pull the shaft , cut the ball joint nut off carefully and try and find a man with a bigger press!
Lugy said:
I've thought about getting a 10 ton hydraulic puller like this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Hydraulic-Bearing... but from what I've read online it might not be man enough. I guess the other option could be split the outer CV if I can or pull the shaft , cut the ball joint nut off carefully and try and find a man with a bigger press!
Obviously I would recommend checking you've not missed anything first - but I've got one of those 10 ton pullers and it's fantastic. There's nothing it wont shift, and plenty of jobs I wouldn't of been able to do without it - but just bear in mind even if something shouldn't move, with 10 tons it probably will bend...Lugy said:
To answer the question about the bottom ball joint, nope, it's still on.
You may find it's easier to leave the ball joint alone and take the arm off the car instead - especially if the ball joint is proving difficult to remove.That doesn't look like a particularly big puller, and if it isn't doing the job then get a bigger one - plus penetrating oil applied liberally and left to soak.
I've come across a work sheet which would confirm there's nothing else holding it on, it seems to imply it should come apart easily .
There's a 10 ton puller on Amazon with quite quick delivery for £40 which could be worth a punt, I'll not get back to the car until Friday now but will report back.
Cheers again!
There's a 10 ton puller on Amazon with quite quick delivery for £40 which could be worth a punt, I'll not get back to the car until Friday now but will report back.
Cheers again!
Joys of home mechanicing. I remember as a kid changing brake discs with my dad. Haynes said "remove the caliper, remove the disc retaining screw, lift off the disc". Real world said "do all this then apply a bloody big puller that will bend the edges of the disc over, then smash hell out of it with a hammer, you may need to take it off in bits". We nearly did. Since then "lift off the disc" has had mythological status and been used to describe anything that needs smashing into small bits to work.
battered said:
Joys of home mechanicing. I remember as a kid changing brake discs with my dad. Haynes said "remove the caliper, remove the disc retaining screw, lift off the disc". Real world said "do all this then apply a bloody big puller that will bend the edges of the disc over, then smash hell out of it with a hammer, you may need to take it off in bits". We nearly did. Since then "lift off the disc" has had mythological status and been used to describe anything that needs smashing into small bits to work.
Tell me about it, just about every job I do I'm left wondering why I shouldn't wander down to the local BMW garage and do what the rest of the people do!M32guy, I borrowed a decent air chisel from the garage next to us, that was his suggestion.
Thinking about it, I might just detach the suspension arm and remove the whole shebang then dodge away with that. The hydraulic puller would be nice to have though..... .
I've had this very issue in the past (way to often) i usually remove the hub with the outer CV still in it so i can lay it on it's back to let the pentrating oil sit and soak into (not just run off the face of) the slpine/drivshaft interface, load up the puller (same as you show above), heat the area then bugger off home for the eve and let it cool, usually i come back to find parts strewn all over the worshop, nowdays i have a 20T press as i'm older wiser and to knackerd to roll about on the floor sodding about with PITA stuck driveshafts
if your near N London and can get the hub off i wil happyly flex the might of my press for free just to watch it go bang and fly appart (and run screaming like a little girl as it does so)
if your near N London and can get the hub off i wil happyly flex the might of my press for free just to watch it go bang and fly appart (and run screaming like a little girl as it does so)
Edited by S0 What on Sunday 4th December 16:51
S0 What said:
I've had this very issue in the past (way to often) i usually remove the hub with the outer CV still in it so i can lay it on it's back to let the pentrating oil sit and soak into (not just run off the face of) the slpine/drivshaft interface, load up the puller (same as you show above), heat the area then bugger off home for the eve and let it cool, usually i come back to find parts strewn all over the worshop, nowdays i have a 20T press as i'm older wiser and to knackerd to roll about on the floor sodding about with PITA stuck driveshafts
if your near N London and can get the hub off i wil happyly flex the might of my press for free just to watch it go bang and fly appart (and run screaming like a little girl as it does so)
Haha this seems far to familiar especially the bit about having a 20 ton press.if your near N London and can get the hub off i wil happyly flex the might of my press for free just to watch it go bang and fly appart (and run screaming like a little girl as it does so)
Edited by S0 What on Sunday 4th December 16:51
That's my advice though op drop the shaft out of the box with the hub and press that badboy out.
Heat and cold here but with a twist
When you heat the thing up its slow and often its impossible not to heat both up at the same time.
If you get the hub to 60deg you'll no longer be able to touch it with your hands, and it'll take quite a while with a good burner. Much higher and you have the change of burning or igniting something. All that for probably a 50-60 deg differential in temperature
Luckily I have access to liquid nitrogen. Having heated up to a modest heat with the burner, I then dribble liquid nitrogen onto the CV. and usually just put a glove on to catch it before it hits the floor The liquid nitrogen is -200, so the differential is huge. Its fun to do.
You can buy isopropanyl alcohol or freeze spray from a lot of DIY places which isn't as good but probably safer. They use it to freeze water in pipes for quick repairs.
When you heat the thing up its slow and often its impossible not to heat both up at the same time.
If you get the hub to 60deg you'll no longer be able to touch it with your hands, and it'll take quite a while with a good burner. Much higher and you have the change of burning or igniting something. All that for probably a 50-60 deg differential in temperature
Luckily I have access to liquid nitrogen. Having heated up to a modest heat with the burner, I then dribble liquid nitrogen onto the CV. and usually just put a glove on to catch it before it hits the floor The liquid nitrogen is -200, so the differential is huge. Its fun to do.
You can buy isopropanyl alcohol or freeze spray from a lot of DIY places which isn't as good but probably safer. They use it to freeze water in pipes for quick repairs.
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