Running in a new engine
Discussion
The Spruce goose said:
What is the car OP?
Please don't say it is a diesel?
It's a Suzuki Swift Sport, so a mass produced engine but with a fairly high output/litre for an n/a. Quite a light car too so a well run in engine is probably going to make more of a difference than in say a 316i I'd imagine.Please don't say it is a diesel?
I know it's not quick enough for most PHers, but I've done the fast car thing and now I'm more about having fun which it's already delivering in spades
That said it'll be good to make the most from what little it's got 
VeeFource said:
DrDeAtH said:
I spent 10 years working in Dagenham engine plant for Ford.
Every engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line.
The short test referred to previously is the vehicle validation test which is completed upon rolling of the vehicle production line - totally different.
Other examples of these test can be viewed on programmes like 'how its made' etc...
That's an interesting post! I guess it varies between manufacturers in which case. Wonder if Ford still write the usual running in advice in their manual or whether they still don't class that as run in yetEvery engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line.
The short test referred to previously is the vehicle validation test which is completed upon rolling of the vehicle production line - totally different.
Other examples of these test can be viewed on programmes like 'how its made' etc...
DrDeAtH said:
I spent 10 years working in Dagenham engine plant for Ford.
Every engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line
That is not a "break in" test, it's a basic functional test and ensures there are no oil leaks etc. and I would expect most manufacturers do something like this. A new engine can not be broken in with 15 minutes use.Every engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line
Mr2Mike said:
DrDeAtH said:
I spent 10 years working in Dagenham engine plant for Ford.
Every engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line
That is not a "break in" test, it's a basic functional test and ensures there are no oil leaks etc. and I would expect most manufacturers do something like this. A new engine can not be broken in with 15 minutes use.Every engine went into a dyno cell at the end of the assembly line. Each engine was hot tested for approx 15 mins. This included a warm up and break in cycle, load testing and a cool down cycle. This was not done on the car production line, but the engine manufacturing line
Due to the improvement in manufacturing tolerances, the only thing that really needs to be run in is the ring to bore interface, this is really critical to future oil consumption and compression pressures.
What causes two parts which move against each other to bed in? Friction caused by pressure and movement!
The modern piston ring is much lighter in tension than those of yesteryear. What applies the pressure on the ring is not the intrinsic spring tension, it is the combustion pressure. We need combustion pressure and this means some load on the engine. Movement is caused by engine speed, so we also need a little bit of this also.
What we must be careful of is too much heat as this may effect the material properties of the ring and make it harden, and it will never bed in.
From new with a warm engine and as early as possible...
1, 50% load accelerating from 1/4-1/2 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
2, 70% load accelerating from 1/4-1/2 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
3, 70% load accelerating from 1/4-3/4 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
Drive it building from 70% load and 3/4 of rev range to full usage in the next 500 miles. If you get the opportunity to repeat stage 3 above do so. Then change oil and filter.
That is my advice FWIW
What causes two parts which move against each other to bed in? Friction caused by pressure and movement!
The modern piston ring is much lighter in tension than those of yesteryear. What applies the pressure on the ring is not the intrinsic spring tension, it is the combustion pressure. We need combustion pressure and this means some load on the engine. Movement is caused by engine speed, so we also need a little bit of this also.
What we must be careful of is too much heat as this may effect the material properties of the ring and make it harden, and it will never bed in.
From new with a warm engine and as early as possible...
1, 50% load accelerating from 1/4-1/2 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
2, 70% load accelerating from 1/4-1/2 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
3, 70% load accelerating from 1/4-3/4 of rpm range in 3rd gear five times lifting off and letting engine braking take the speed back down.
Drive it building from 70% load and 3/4 of rev range to full usage in the next 500 miles. If you get the opportunity to repeat stage 3 above do so. Then change oil and filter.
That is my advice FWIW
Sounds reasonable and is similar to what's described in this excellent article:
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
Just reaffirms to me that those whom think this is a non-issue aren't a proper pistonhead
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
Just reaffirms to me that those whom think this is a non-issue aren't a proper pistonhead
Pommygranite said:
I have a question - why is this one a keeper forever?
Funnily enough I got my Mum a mk1 and found it the most fun practical car I've ever driven (without spending a fortune anyways) and I've driven a lot of cars. So decided to get a mk2 (need cruise etc) but given it took me a year to find her a decent one and realising this will probably be the last n/a version you can get I decided to get a new one.Never thought I'd buy a new car but managed to get a good discount and am flippin loving it
Honestly can't see me getting rid of this thing so hoping to love it long time!VeeFource said:
Sounds reasonable and is similar to what's described in this excellent article:
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
Citation neededhttp://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
mp3manager said:
Citation needed
I'm not saying it's the definitive answer, just that it seems to summarise most of the research I've done fairly well. Don't forget that even the experts don't know for sure as controlled testing of an engine for wear is inherently flawed in that you can only do so properly by stripped the thing and cutting it into pieces.VeeFource said:
750turbo said:
OP - Be careful - Apparently these Suzuki engines are prone to use a bit of oil 
6 pages on a non issue!
If it's a non issue to you, why bother reading and commenting on it 6 pages on a non issue!
Get over yourself, a vast number of posts on PH are mostly taken with the pinch of salt they deserve...
Adding my anecdotal evidence.
I bought a 95 MX5 that had suffered a HGF. I rebuilt it with new bottom end bearings, rings and valve seals. Skimmed and rehoned the block and put it all back together. Added some cheap mineral oil, warmed it up and thrashed it for 20 miles, full bore 3rd gear to the redline and back. After a new filter more mineral oil went in and I drove it normally for the next 500 miles or so. After that a decent synthetic went in and it was back to my normal 5000 mile oil and filter changes. The oil never changed colour between changes after that, at most it would darken slightly, passed MOT emission tests with no problems too.
I'd do the same again if I was rebuilding another engine.
I bought a 95 MX5 that had suffered a HGF. I rebuilt it with new bottom end bearings, rings and valve seals. Skimmed and rehoned the block and put it all back together. Added some cheap mineral oil, warmed it up and thrashed it for 20 miles, full bore 3rd gear to the redline and back. After a new filter more mineral oil went in and I drove it normally for the next 500 miles or so. After that a decent synthetic went in and it was back to my normal 5000 mile oil and filter changes. The oil never changed colour between changes after that, at most it would darken slightly, passed MOT emission tests with no problems too.
I'd do the same again if I was rebuilding another engine.
Ok, since I posted this theres been mention of using mineral oil and changing it after a thousand miles.
When I picked the car up from being rebuilt I was told run in for a thousand miles then drive normally until the next oil change at approx 6000 miles. It currently has fully synthetic 5 40 in it ( and Im now up to 700 miles). Persom
Personally I thought it would have had mineral oil and a sooner change?
When I picked the car up from being rebuilt I was told run in for a thousand miles then drive normally until the next oil change at approx 6000 miles. It currently has fully synthetic 5 40 in it ( and Im now up to 700 miles). Persom
Personally I thought it would have had mineral oil and a sooner change?
Spanglepants said:
Im running in a Saab 9 5 Aero, had new pistons and rods. I was told to take it easy for a 1000 miles. Does that sound right?
Ive been driving it fairly gently with the odd run up to 4000rpm other than that mostly 3000rpm - redline is 6. Done almost 600 miles, when should I start gradually pushing it a bit more?
Ive been driving it fairly gently with the odd run up to 4000rpm other than that mostly 3000rpm - redline is 6. Done almost 600 miles, when should I start gradually pushing it a bit more?
VeeFource said:
Sounds reasonable and is similar to what's described in this excellent article:
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
Just reaffirms to me that those whom think this is a non-issue aren't a proper pistonhead
You can find a random website supporting any thesis on the internet. If you looked for a break in method which involved running from day 1 and never doing any oil change at all there would be a website somewhere... http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Break-in_engine
Just reaffirms to me that those whom think this is a non-issue aren't a proper pistonhead
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