£1500 4x4. Me again, Would a P38 Range rover be in range...
Discussion
I think if you want one to run as a primary car & for it to provide sterling service, then a P38 can be hard work & big bucks, as described above. However, a friend of mine buys old LR 4x4s as tow cars/farm hacks etc, & drives them until they drop & they put up with the abuse fairly well; they just look & sound dreadful before too long...
Most of you are so far away in regards to running a p38 nowadays, how many that have made comments have actually owned one?
Ok they have issues quite a few but look a the cost of parts for them peanuts now, mine has needed 3 air bags due to age about £60 a corner( next to a l322 nearly £400 a corner), and tyres and brake pipes
It has it's share of niggels but it drives and does as it should , body work and chassis and everything mechanical is good in these cars just the electrical side is weak.
Horrendous on fuel I see about 13mpg round town out my 4.0 no lpg . As a second Car it works very well for us a cheap other than fuel but I do Max 2500 miles a year in it. Can park it any where and not care about getting car park damage, a fine machine, great for the towing duty for pulling my father's 6 tin boat up a terrible old slip way.
Ok they have issues quite a few but look a the cost of parts for them peanuts now, mine has needed 3 air bags due to age about £60 a corner( next to a l322 nearly £400 a corner), and tyres and brake pipes
It has it's share of niggels but it drives and does as it should , body work and chassis and everything mechanical is good in these cars just the electrical side is weak.
Horrendous on fuel I see about 13mpg round town out my 4.0 no lpg . As a second Car it works very well for us a cheap other than fuel but I do Max 2500 miles a year in it. Can park it any where and not care about getting car park damage, a fine machine, great for the towing duty for pulling my father's 6 tin boat up a terrible old slip way.
Edited by scotty_d on Tuesday 17th December 12:03
I support the P38 . I had a 2001 4.8 Vogue for a couple of years before upgrading to a L322.
£2.5K, never let me down in a big way, but.... wasn't perfect either.
Bits are dirt cheap, huge amount of online webpages telling you what's gone wrong and how to fix it.
Main issues I had? Well nothing major really. The air suspension would bottom out when I first had it, spent some time getting my head round how the system worked and realised it was basically a lazy pump. £20 to fix yourself if you're handy with spanners.
Bits are dirt cheap, I mean really cheap. I replaced the rear calipers for example, £25 a side for recon'd ones.
Quite a few niggly things needed looking at, like leaking heater joints, flat battery caused by sensitive remote key sensor, a couple of shorting HT leads, etc... but the basics were bullet proof.
Oh, and I mainly used mine for trundling around town in at the weekends, so 13-14mpg was my average.
The TDV8 gets double that , and is quicker, so I now have a RR I use all day everyday.
£2.5K, never let me down in a big way, but.... wasn't perfect either.
Bits are dirt cheap, huge amount of online webpages telling you what's gone wrong and how to fix it.
Main issues I had? Well nothing major really. The air suspension would bottom out when I first had it, spent some time getting my head round how the system worked and realised it was basically a lazy pump. £20 to fix yourself if you're handy with spanners.
Bits are dirt cheap, I mean really cheap. I replaced the rear calipers for example, £25 a side for recon'd ones.
Quite a few niggly things needed looking at, like leaking heater joints, flat battery caused by sensitive remote key sensor, a couple of shorting HT leads, etc... but the basics were bullet proof.
Oh, and I mainly used mine for trundling around town in at the weekends, so 13-14mpg was my average.
The TDV8 gets double that , and is quicker, so I now have a RR I use all day everyday.
I changed the rear bags on mine yesterday and it took about 5min a side.
Its so easy to do:
Its so easy to do:
- Pull the R clip off the bottom of the bag.
- Jack up the corner of the car a tiny bit.
- Stick screwdriver on the brass collar around the air line and pull it out.
- pull out the top R clip. (bag drops on floor)
- Shove the other bag up and replace R Clip
- Shove in airline (literally just shove it in)
- clip in the bottom of the bag
- Sit in car and rase the suspension off the jack.
300bhp/ton said:
StuntmanMike said:
My friend has one, it is a prototype 4.6 with all the toys, its reliable, its on air, it has done 200k, but it won't go above 14.7 mpg, he is a very steady driver as well.
In his opinion its vastly superior to the original range rover, he has owned both, before the haters jump down my throat he has forgotten more about these cars than most people know, he thinks they are a good car, however I would concede he is biased.
Should be able to get better than 14.7mpg, unless they drive only a set non optimised route.In his opinion its vastly superior to the original range rover, he has owned both, before the haters jump down my throat he has forgotten more about these cars than most people know, he thinks they are a good car, however I would concede he is biased.
We've had 2 4.6 HSE's. Best mpg was a steady cruise to N Wales and resulted in about 21mpg.
Normal Average was circa 16mpg however.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Mitsubishi-Shogun-G...
I wouldn't touch an older RR, certainly not a P38 unless I had no option.
Classic - mechanical issues you can fix cheap as chips
P38 - Electrical and suspension issues you can get fixed
L322 - TD6 gearbox and air suspension issues.
P38 is the worst o the bunch.
I wouldn't touch an older RR, certainly not a P38 unless I had no option.
Classic - mechanical issues you can fix cheap as chips
P38 - Electrical and suspension issues you can get fixed
L322 - TD6 gearbox and air suspension issues.
P38 is the worst o the bunch.
L322 Air suspension seems to be a lot more sorted than the P38-goes to touch some wood.
The TD6 gearbox is an issue though, luckily I found one that had already been reconditioned, also the V8s arn't immune, the radiator can get clogged on the lower layers over time which causes the gearbox to overheat, so you need to change the radiator, gearbox oil cooler and have a transmission oil change-not the end of the World but something to think about too.
The TD6 gearbox is an issue though, luckily I found one that had already been reconditioned, also the V8s arn't immune, the radiator can get clogged on the lower layers over time which causes the gearbox to overheat, so you need to change the radiator, gearbox oil cooler and have a transmission oil change-not the end of the World but something to think about too.
Looked after they are great, but for £1500 I think you'd end up with a bag of s
te something where previous owner has skimped on repairs and is looking to pass the problem on. That said a friend got on with "knackered" air suspension guy had changed bags pipes and compressor but still threw up errors and wouldn't level so gave up flogged it for £500 turned out pipes had been connected wrong so the ecu was getting confused he sorted it and now it's running great he's put 50k on it in 2 years with no problems
te something where previous owner has skimped on repairs and is looking to pass the problem on. That said a friend got on with "knackered" air suspension guy had changed bags pipes and compressor but still threw up errors and wouldn't level so gave up flogged it for £500 turned out pipes had been connected wrong so the ecu was getting confused he sorted it and now it's running great he's put 50k on it in 2 years with no problems I had a P38 for a year. I had to fix a few niggles on it (easy thanks to the comprehensive DIY guides on the net) but it was a great car and I'd have another. Best thing is to think of them as a hobby first and mode of transport second. Generally people (who's mate down the pub had one) will tell you to avoid them as they all go wrong constantly, etc, etc. Fact is they don't, or else there would be none left on the road by now. Quick search on Autotrader will show you there are loads about.
Edited to add - I personally wouldn't spend less than 2k on one. Anything cheaper than that is likely to be needing some serious TLC. I recently sold my 1998 4.0 with 87000 miles on the clock for 2.5k to give you a guide.
Edited to add - I personally wouldn't spend less than 2k on one. Anything cheaper than that is likely to be needing some serious TLC. I recently sold my 1998 4.0 with 87000 miles on the clock for 2.5k to give you a guide.
someone that helps me in the autumn at work had a 1995 Discovery that became surplus to his requirements. He got it taxed and MOT'd and put in on a leading interwebular auction site and prepared to beat potential buyers off with a dirty stick. Not one bite. Nothing. Zilch. Ended up scrapping it for 300 quid. So, it may pay to examine the classifieds more closely.
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