help! wheel rusted in place.
Discussion
pimping said:
tried the jack up, jack down. chock of wood behind wheel but need a larger hammer for hitting it with. kicked it. going to wait till i am in work tomorrow and get the properly big hammers out.
just thought there might be some trick to it.
cheers all!
Have you tried moving it as per the above suggestions, the bigger the hammer the more damage you will do if you miss, drop it down and move it back 3', jab on the brakes and forwards again and it will be free, no damage, no hammers, no waiting, no borrowing works tools etc...just thought there might be some trick to it.
cheers all!
pimping said:
ah bit worried about the 'loosen nuts and move three feet' one just in case. won't it do damage to the threads on the bolts?
Will be fine. Just undoo them one (or half) turn, not the whole way out. I always got told that if you then drive round in a circle (slowly) it will come undone.The worst one I ever had was on a Ford Excursion.
I had to use a scissor jack between the wheel(protected with wa bit of wood) and the car and use the jack to force the two apart.
All of the above methods will work just make sure not to hit your rim directly and grease the inside of the wheel face when you re fit it.
When you have done this wheel, do the rest too.
You wouldn't want to be doing this at the roadside/hard shoulder if you got a flat!
I had to use a scissor jack between the wheel(protected with wa bit of wood) and the car and use the jack to force the two apart.
All of the above methods will work just make sure not to hit your rim directly and grease the inside of the wheel face when you re fit it.
When you have done this wheel, do the rest too.
You wouldn't want to be doing this at the roadside/hard shoulder if you got a flat!
john_p said:
I consider tyre fitters to be the experts at this, and have only ever observed two approaches:
1. lie under the car and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
I'm sure you can see the common theme here.
A recipe for a flat fitter if the jack goes 1. lie under the car and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
I'm sure you can see the common theme here.
got to be the dumbest thing ever. Reminds me of tipper drivers who work under the body without a prop
TheLurker said:
pimping said:
ah bit worried about the 'loosen nuts and move three feet' one just in case. won't it do damage to the threads on the bolts?
Will be fine. Just undoo them one (or half) turn, not the whole way out. I always got told that if you then drive round in a circle (slowly) it will come undone.There will be a loud bang as it frees itself but it will only at worst be in contact with the end 2mm of the thread on the stud, plus for only a couple of feet, the weight of the car will still be supported by the hub center so it's only rotational force being put on the studs.
Ive done it on a few cars and never any visible damage to the thread, certainly less than wacking the tyre/wheel with a hammer (even with wood) and way less damage than when you clip the wood, pushing the hammer into the bodywork....
the nuts only need be 1/4 of a turn slack, just enough to allow a slight bit of movement to crack the wheel off!
Plusgas is better than WD40 for that kind of thing, mixed metals can be a pig to separate, aluminium bike seatpost in steel frame being my personal worst.
Dont know if this ais a daft suggestion, but release the buts a couple of turns and move it backwards and forwards where safe to do so, at low speed and brake hard, am thinking the wheel is clamped on to the hub via the corrosion, releasing the nuts will probably mean the weight of the car is then all on the rusty bit if the nuts arent fully in as they pull in and centre it, so possibly it will separate and drop a couple of mm ?
Dont know if this ais a daft suggestion, but release the buts a couple of turns and move it backwards and forwards where safe to do so, at low speed and brake hard, am thinking the wheel is clamped on to the hub via the corrosion, releasing the nuts will probably mean the weight of the car is then all on the rusty bit if the nuts arent fully in as they pull in and centre it, so possibly it will separate and drop a couple of mm ?
Petrolhead_Rich said:
TheLurker said:
pimping said:
ah bit worried about the 'loosen nuts and move three feet' one just in case. won't it do damage to the threads on the bolts?
Will be fine. Just undoo them one (or half) turn, not the whole way out. I always got told that if you then drive round in a circle (slowly) it will come undone.There will be a loud bang as it frees itself but it will only at worst be in contact with the end 2mm of the thread on the stud, plus for only a couple of feet, the weight of the car will still be supported by the hub center so it's only rotational force being put on the studs.
Ive done it on a few cars and never any visible damage to the thread, certainly less than wacking the tyre/wheel with a hammer (even with wood) and way less damage than when you clip the wood, pushing the hammer into the bodywork....
the nuts only need be 1/4 of a turn slack, just enough to allow a slight bit of movement to crack the wheel off!
If slackening the nuts & driving back & forth doesn't work or if for what ever reason you want to try again with the hammer, don't just hit it in one place, hit it & spin the wheel 180 degrees, hit it & spin it 180 degrees back where you hit it the first time, keep doing it like that. Once it moves a bit spin the wheel 90 degrees between hits. It's not an exact science & you'll see what I mean when it starts to move.
Petrolhead_Rich said:
1) wheel falls off and hits you in the shin
2) slip and fall
3) slip and kick car bodywork
4) stub toe on car bodywork
5) car falls off jack
rusted wheels and brakes are a common problem and easily solved by driving a couple of meters with the wheel nuts slackened, hammers, wood, kicking etc will end in damage, injury or just have no effect!
After being a tyre fitter for a year, doing 5 days a week and a lot of cars every day i can honestly say none of these things ever happened to me.2) slip and fall
3) slip and kick car bodywork
4) stub toe on car bodywork
5) car falls off jack
rusted wheels and brakes are a common problem and easily solved by driving a couple of meters with the wheel nuts slackened, hammers, wood, kicking etc will end in damage, injury or just have no effect!
I would kick the wheel off and it has NEVER resulted in damage, injury or not having an effect.
I had just this problem on a cold and dark M5 southbound last thursday. Tried pulling it with no joy, tried kicking it lots still no joy. Used the emergency phone and the HA arrived with a long crow bar - no joy. Bloke then suggested moving it with loosened nuts and it took literally about a foot of forward movement before i heard a pop and felt a slight jolt. Massive relief and will be remembering that technique.
Try it OP it will work.
Oh and massive praise to the two guys from the HA - they were excellent.
Richard
Try it OP it will work.
Oh and massive praise to the two guys from the HA - they were excellent.
Richard
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