Complete build of a 500bhp drift car - want to see it?
Discussion
cptsideways said:
Considering this car is 21 year old car, everything still worked perfectly, not one bolt had seized in, everything has come undone firt turn. Incredible quality really & just shows how far ahead the Japanese were back then.
Interesting. Although what we may now refer to as 'build quality', IE having blue lights and squishy rubbery plastic on everything is low...I actually think that the REAL build quality on my 1994 Mazda is astonishing. It is a joy to work on in terms of the quality of the fittings used, nothing ever rounds off or is seized, access is always good etc. Very well designed and 'logical', much more so than contemporary European cars I think.
How much of an issue is weight on a drift car? Obviously you dont want something too lardy but - tif you think of road cars, evwen comparing cars with similar power to weight and layout - the bigger ones tend to naturally be better suited to it than the smaller ones - all about momentum I guess.
Can you go too light?
snotrag said:
How much of an issue is weight on a drift car? Obviously you dont want something too lardy but - tif you think of road cars, evwen comparing cars with similar power to weight and layout - the bigger ones tend to naturally be better suited to it than the smaller ones - all about momentum I guess.
Can you go too light?
Power to weight ratio is definately an advantage & lighter cars seem to be able to corner physically faster, my old Soarer was noticeably quicker through corners especially when it was wet. Can you go too light?
Losing 200kg's makes a huge difference to the bhp/ton factor eg 500bhp & 1500kg is 333bhp per ton with 1300 kg its 385bhp/ton & I got my old car down to 1210kg fueled up so 413bhp/ton & thats a HUGE difference. Plus losing weight is always cheaper & more reliable than bhp
I supposed you can go tool light, but its where the weight is & adjusting the spring rates to suit that counts the most so it is'nt a problem.
So the car is now ready to be dropped off to Nickson Motorsport for its full rollcage treatment. Todays jobs were remove the old aircon unit, it weighed 8kg! it was already degassed so that was handy & I did some tidying up & gave it a hoover inside. Theres nothing worse than welding & catching light to bits of sound deadening tar when your not looking 
Last of the interior bits to go 8kg of aircon unit
All nice & clean for the cage job
Love the back lights on the Soarer
Its still runs & drives as is, the 1JZ sounds lovely,
oh look whats arrived in the bay next door
Two JZ'd Toyota's to play with now, one thats about as lardy & fat as you get, the other stripped & bare to the bone.
I'll be starting on that one soon
Monday the Soarer's off to be caged & I'll be updating as that goes along.
I'm off to the pub
Last of the interior bits to go 8kg of aircon unit
All nice & clean for the cage job
Love the back lights on the Soarer
Its still runs & drives as is, the 1JZ sounds lovely,
oh look whats arrived in the bay next door
Two JZ'd Toyota's to play with now, one thats about as lardy & fat as you get, the other stripped & bare to the bone.
I'll be starting on that one soon
Monday the Soarer's off to be caged & I'll be updating as that goes along.
I'm off to the pub
Interesting stuff, though I'm slightly confused as to your car choice. Seeing as you're spending so much time, effort and money in the build wouldn't it be a lot better to start off with a newer better looking car in the first place? 200SX maybe?
Not questioning your choice but genuinely interested as to why you've picked the car you have?
Not questioning your choice but genuinely interested as to why you've picked the car you have?
Darkslider said:
Interesting stuff, though I'm slightly confused as to your car choice. Seeing as you're spending so much time, effort and money in the build wouldn't it be a lot better to start off with a newer better looking car in the first place? 200SX maybe?
Not questioning your choice but genuinely interested as to why you've picked the car you have?
Simple really, everybody else has a (insert swearword) NISSANNot questioning your choice but genuinely interested as to why you've picked the car you have?
I'm different, always have been & was brave enough in the first place to experiment with one of these oddball things. With a good basic set up they can be a very competitive car. Plus to my competitors I & my old Soarer have been painfully annoyingly reliable
It's never broken a diff, driveshaft, gearbox or engine. I've worn a gearbox out but it had 200k on it before I put 500bhp through it, it didn't break though. I did melt 6 pistons when a fuel pump died (not a Toyota part) it still ran fine though just breathed a bit, I've never blown one up otherwise in 5 years of competitions.Show me an RB engine thats realible at 500bhp that does'nt cost 5 times a JZ build, or a Nissan driveshaft that does'nt break, or Nissan SR20 that does'nt break rockers, or an SR20 gearbox that does'nt self destruct 3rd gear. You can throw money at a Nissan to fix it, but I can't break a Toyota in the first place.
It's also quite a cool old skool car, everyone always asks "what the hell is it"
Oh & my sponsors love it.Edited by cptsideways on Saturday 7th November 18:07
How would I go about getting in there then....
Lord Flathead said:
Great stuff thanks. Preferred places to shop and specifically what parts are needed, if that's not divulging any secret builds?
Mr Universal Turbo's for a Garret GT3076r turbo about £1100, external wastegate & various flange fittings, so about £1600 all in.XS Power manifold £200 (bargain)and good too
HEL Performance for the oil & water lines plus fittings £200-250
Supra 550 injectors £150 ish ebay
Downpipe 3" SS tubing & bends about £200 ebay & some fabrication
You'll need a decent clutch from about £600 from Driftworks up to £1500 for a twin plate from HKS, OS Giken etc
Thats most of the mechanical bits, then its management, I'd go emanage as its simple & diyable about £400 but lots of others to choose from, then mapping about £3-400.
Dr.Doofenshmirtz said:
Anal fact of the day - First use of fibre optics in a car!!!! As fitted to GZ20's & their funky sidemarker light things
The Fiat X1/9 had fibre optic dash switch illimination way before this
Looks like you're having a lot of fun
So did the Rover SD1 for switch illumination.The Fiat X1/9 had fibre optic dash switch illimination way before this
Looks like you're having a lot of fun
Anyhow, where were we? Oh yes.......
Edited by Morningside on Saturday 7th November 21:34
cptsideways said:
Lord Flathead said:
Great stuff thanks. Preferred places to shop and specifically what parts are needed, if that's not divulging any secret builds?
Mr Universal Turbo's for a Garret GT3076r turbo about £1100, external wastegate & various flange fittings, so about £1600 all in.XS Power manifold £200 (bargain)and good too
HEL Performance for the oil & water lines plus fittings £200-250
Supra 550 injectors £150 ish ebay
Downpipe 3" SS tubing & bends about £200 ebay & some fabrication
You'll need a decent clutch from about £600 from Driftworks up to £1500 for a twin plate from HKS, OS Giken etc
Thats most of the mechanical bits, then its management, I'd go emanage as its simple & diyable about £400 but lots of others to choose from, then mapping about £3-400.
Lord Flathead said:
cptsideways said:
Lord Flathead said:
Great stuff thanks. Preferred places to shop and specifically what parts are needed, if that's not divulging any secret builds?
Mr Universal Turbo's for a Garret GT3076r turbo about £1100, external wastegate & various flange fittings, so about £1600 all in.XS Power manifold £200 (bargain)and good too
HEL Performance for the oil & water lines plus fittings £200-250
Supra 550 injectors £150 ish ebay
Downpipe 3" SS tubing & bends about £200 ebay & some fabrication
You'll need a decent clutch from about £600 from Driftworks up to £1500 for a twin plate from HKS, OS Giken etc
Thats most of the mechanical bits, then its management, I'd go emanage as its simple & diyable about £400 but lots of others to choose from, then mapping about £3-400.
cptsideways said:
1JZ-GTE has 280bhp as standard with its twin turbo configuration, the later single turbo VVTI engines were the same bhp but had a lot more torque lower down and slightly faster spool rates, though these are rather rare.
hmmmmmmm nice Are you DIYing the plastic windows or going to a company that does them? I ask seeing as it's going to get done on the Monza over the winter
B'stard Child said:
cptsideways said:
1JZ-GTE has 280bhp as standard with its twin turbo configuration, the later single turbo VVTI engines were the same bhp but had a lot more torque lower down and slightly faster spool rates, though these are rather rare.
hmmmmmmm nice Are you DIYing the plastic windows or going to a company that does them? I ask seeing as it's going to get done on the Monza over the winter
cptsideways said:
B'stard Child said:
cptsideways said:
1JZ-GTE has 280bhp as standard with its twin turbo configuration, the later single turbo VVTI engines were the same bhp but had a lot more torque lower down and slightly faster spool rates, though these are rather rare.
hmmmmmmm nice Are you DIYing the plastic windows or going to a company that does them? I ask seeing as it's going to get done on the Monza over the winter
I found a company that did plastic windows for a Monza but comunication with them was patchy to say the least so I figure DIY might be more effective probably no cheaper at the end of the day
Edited by B'stard Child on Sunday 8th November 09:59
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