Best fix for a leaky radiator?

Best fix for a leaky radiator?

Author
Discussion

NiceCupOfTea

25,298 posts

253 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
Why take the risk? I've spent the last week flushing the cooling system on my MX-5 which is completely gunged up, presumably just through not changing the coolant/using tap water, so who knows what putting something that has the potential to gum up waterways can do...

All I am saying is changing the rad will fix it, is easy, and is a proper solution. Putting radweld in it *might* fix it, but could end up being much, much more expensive in the end...

TheEnd

15,370 posts

190 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
True, but i do think radweld and similar get a bad press.
Jaguar used to throw a bottle in during every service years ago.

saladdodger

347 posts

168 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
just take the rad out and put a new one in, you'll feel better about it trust me.


Simbu

1,796 posts

176 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
If a new rad is an expensive part you can get them repaired at lower cost, provided the leak isn't too serious. My old man's getting his rad repaired on his kit car at the moment, i think he said its costing more like £50 instead of forking out for a new one. It's not a hugely complicated job.

Pot Bellied Fool

2,131 posts

239 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
Bars Seal every time. (Pellets are better than the liquid). I've had cars with a leak, put BARS in it & it's still been fine a couple of years later when I sold it.

It was handy Dad being a Motor Factor though, strongly advised me not to touch the competitors & to use BARS - he used to sell it by the case to 2nd hand dealers. They were willing to pay a little more for it rather than Holts etc. Because it simply worked...

Fordo

1,537 posts

226 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
take the rad out and get a rad specialist to 'recore' it. Comes back good as new.

Had to do this for my old rover 420 turbo when it sprung a leak. The turbo rad's were no longer made, so I got it recored, and cost me about £90. Then i hammed up putting it back in and managed to stick a spanner in it. Took it back, ad the radiator chap repaired it for free!


If you live anywhere near watford, the company was called Hornet Radiators I think


Edited by Fordo on Thursday 29th July 14:46

Cock Womble 7

29,908 posts

232 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
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Just crack an egg into it.

ExPat2B

2,157 posts

202 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
I have used BARS before it works, and it doesnt gum anything up.

It only works on very small cracks or leaks due to poor design. Typically if it is caused by corrosion it won't work due to a large weakened area behind the actual leak.

I used it on a very cheap car that was only used for light duty for a short period, so considered it worth it. I pulled the cooling system apart later on, including the waterpump, and found no evidence that it gummed anything up. Typically car have very large cooling passages and a fine powder has no effect at all.

I have heard that some older engines live the Rover KV6 have very narrow cooling passages..maybe it is not a good idea to use it on this.

Personally I wouldn't use if I needed to trust the car on a holiday....if the rad fails on the motorway or a dual road with no hardshoulder, or round a blind corner on a country road, you could end up in a very unsafe position and with a written off car, or the cooling system could fail and take the headgasket with it and possibly warping the head.

Well worth changing the Rad for the peace of mind.

Mr Gear

9,416 posts

192 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
Step 1: Take radiator out (approx 1 hour for someone who isn't an idiot with a spanner)
Step 2: Take to a welder
Step 3: Hand over £30-£50 for the repair
Step 4: re-install radiator.

It worked for my old bike radiator even though the weld was on very thin aluminium.

Dr.Doofenshmirtz

15,316 posts

202 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
The previous owner put Radweld in my car...Make a right mess and took ages to flush out - worked though.

BigBen

11,673 posts

232 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
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I recently bought a car that I subsequently noticed was overheating. I then traced this to a blocked radiator. I removed said radiator and found a massive globule of radweld blocking one of the pipes. Consequently I would not suggest using radweld.

Ben

busta

4,504 posts

235 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
ExPat2B said:
I have used BARS before it works, and it doesnt gum anything up.

It only works on very small cracks or leaks due to poor design. Typically if it is caused by corrosion it won't work due to a large weakened area behind the actual leak.

I used it on a very cheap car that was only used for light duty for a short period, so considered it worth it. I pulled the cooling system apart later on, including the waterpump, and found no evidence that it gummed anything up. Typically car have very large cooling passages and a fine powder has no effect at all.

I have heard that some older engines live the Rover KV6 have very narrow cooling passages..maybe it is not a good idea to use it on this.

Personally I wouldn't use if I needed to trust the car on a holiday....if the rad fails on the motorway or a dual road with no hardshoulder, or round a blind corner on a country road, you could end up in a very unsafe position and with a written off car, or the cooling system could fail and take the headgasket with it and possibly warping the head.

Well worth changing the Rad for the peace of mind.
Oh please. You can still drive without coolant, albeit for a limited time. The clue would be the temperature gauge rising, giving you some warning and a chance to get somewhere safe. Stuck on a blind bend and your car written off! What a load of poppy cock.