How to perform an oil change properly.

[MikesRover25]

Believe it or not, most people never check their oil level, it just doesn't concern them. They think the garage has it covered at the service intervals, but as cars get older they drink oil faster, therefore they end up bellow the minimum level when the service comes around. So i'm going to tell you how to check the oil, and how I change the oil in my car, and what products I recommend and why, so you can do it yourself:

Step 1: Assessing the condition of the oil.
1. Pull out the dip stick, if the oil is bellow the min marker, add some oil gradually as not to overfill, and check the level bit by bit. Aim for the 3/4 mark, this is ideal. Check every week.
2. If the oil is thick, black and low you need an oil change.

Step 2: Engine oil flush additive. (About 15% of old oil remains in engine without the flush)
1. Purchase an engine flush solution (Specific to petrol or diesel engine). Brands like Wynn's and STP offer good products. Expect to pay around £5.00 from halfords or online.
2. Empty entire bottle into the oil and drive home (drive around 10-20 miles ideally)

Step 3: Draining the old oil.
1. Make sure your car is still warm and locate the bleed bolt underneath the engine.
2. Get the catch tray lined up and undo this nut. Apply pressure to the nut when you reach the end of the tread and pull away sharply as not to burn yourself or drop the nut into the tray.

Step 4: Oil Filter change.
1. Once the oil has drained completely, locate the oil filter and undo.
2. Prepare your new filter by greasing the rim with some new oil and reattach. (I recommend a Bosch oil filter)
3. Once the oil has drained completely, reattach the bleed nut firmly.

Step 4: (Optional) Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment
1. Purchase Wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter.
2. Pour entire bottle into the oil filler.
3. This solution acts as a detergent and stops dirt building up and contaminating the new oil over it's service life. It also lubricates and stops the valve lifters from sticking, this allows the engine to run quieter and smoother, whilst restoring lost power. It's a great additive.

Step 5: Adding the New Oil.
1. Refer to the owners manual to find out how much oil your vehicle takes, and what grade oil.
2. For vehicles over 7 years old, It's a good idea to up the viscosity of the oil for extra protection, e.g. if your car takes 5W-30 oil, try 5W-40 oil, it will last longer and allow the car to run smoother.
3. When choosing your oil make sure it is fully synthetic, it's not worth skimping on and buying the cheap stuff.
4. I recommend Shell Helix Ultra oil, as it has the best cleaning agent properties in it, and is a superb value oil. This will keep your engine's insides clean and prevent deposits from building up. I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 in my car, it's the best oil out there in my opinion.

Step 6: Disposing of the old oil.
1. Take the old oil to a recycling centre, they will dispose of it correctly.

Edited by MikesRover25 on Monday 20th May 18:58

[Papa Hotel]

Thanks Mike.

[TheHeretic]

Not sure if advert for Wynn's, or genuine attempt at helpfulness.

[Negative Creep]

TheHeretic said:

Not sure if advert for Wynn's, or genuine attempt at helpfulness.

Or a Shell Helix ad

[Buff Mchugelarge]

TheHeretic said:

Not sure if advert for Wynn's, or genuine attempt at helpfulness.

Either way it's wynn wynn..

[anonymous-user]

To add always on a flat surface..

also i never used engine flush, extra oil does the trick..15% seems high, a hot engine can't imagine that

Question, how do you flush, the engine flush out?

[TheHeretic]

The Spruce goose said:

To add always on a flat surface..

also i never used engine flush, extra oil does the trick..15% seems high, a hot engine can't imagine that

Question, how do you flush, the engine flush out?

You use Wynn's engine flush flush.

[MikesRover25]

The Spruce goose said:

To add always on a flat surface..

also i never used engine flush, extra oil does the trick..15% seems high, a hot engine can't imagine that

Question, how do you flush, the engine flush out?

It loosens the dirt deposits in the engine before you let the old oil out.

[750turbo]

MikesRover25 said:

Believe it or not, most people never check their oil level, it just doesn't concern them. They think the garage has it covered at the service intervals, but as cars get older they drink oil faster, therefore they end up bellow the minimum level when the service comes around. So i'm going to tell you how to check the oil, and how I change the oil in my car, and what products I recommend and why, so you can do it yourself:

Step 1: Assessing the condition of the oil.
1. Pull out the dip stick, if the oil is bellow the min marker, add some oil gradually as not to overfill, and check the level bit by bit. Aim for the 3/4 mark, this is ideal. Check every week.
2. If the oil is thick, black and low you need an oil change.

Step 2: Engine oil flush additive. (About 15% of old oil remains in engine without the flush)
1. Purchase an engine flush solution (Specific to petrol or diesel engine). Brands like Wynn's and STP offer good products. Expect to pay around £5.00 from halfords or online.
2. Empty entire bottle into the oil and drive home (drive around 10-20 miles ideally)

Step 3: Draining the old oil.
1. Make sure your car is still warm and locate the bleed bolt underneath the engine.
2. Get the catch tray lined up and undo this nut. Apply pressure to the nut when you reach the end of the tread and pull away sharply as not to burn yourself or drop the nut into the tray.

Step 4: Oil Filter change.
1. Once the oil has drained completely, locate the oil filter and undo.
2. Prepare your new filter by greasing the rim with some new oil and reattach. (I recommend a Bosch oil filter)
3. Once the oil has drained completely, reattach the bleed nut firmly.

Step 4: (Optional) Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment
1. Purchase Wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter.
2. Pour entire bottle into the oil filler.
3. This solution acts as a detergent and stops dirt building up and contaminating the new oil over it's service life. It also lubricates and stops the valve lifters from sticking, this allows the engine to run quieter and smoother, whilst restoring lost power. It's a great additive.

Step 5: Adding the New Oil.
1. Refer to the owners manual to find out how much oil your vehicle takes, and what grade oil.
2. For vehicles over 7 years old, It's a good idea to up the viscosity of the oil for extra protection, e.g. if your car takes 5W-30 oil, try 5W-40 oil, it will last longer and allow the car to run smoother.
3. When choosing your oil make sure it is fully synthetic, it's not worth skimping on and buying the cheap stuff.
4. I recommend Shell Helix Ultra oil, as it has the best cleaning agent properties in it, and is a superb value oil. This will keep your engine's insides clean and prevent deposits from building up. I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 in my car, it's the best oil out there in my opinion.

Step 6: Disposing of the old oil.
1. Take the old oil to a recycling centre, they will dispose of it correctly.

Edited by MikesRover25 on Monday 20th May 18:58

WTF?

[DJP]

Without wishing to argumentative, I wouldn't recommend the use of any flushing agent since you run the risk of dislodging otherwise harmless deposits that then get stuck somewhere else important (like a vital oilway).

Just use a good quality oil and change it regularly – it'll keep your engine plenty clean enough.

[MikesRover25]

DJP said:

Without wishing to argumentative, I wouldn't recommend the use of any flushing agent since you run the risk of dislodging otherwise harmless deposits that then get stuck somewhere else important (like a vital oilway).

Just use a good quality oil and change it regularly – it'll keep your engine plenty clean enough.

Yes, this is true, but if you use the engine flush every oil change, deposits big enough to get stuck wouldn't have chance to build up in the first place. Engine flush solutions dissolve the grime pieces as well, it is unlikely to dislodge dirt in a way that it would cause a blockage.

[dave_s13]

Engine flushing agents are never recommended by the manufacturer are they?

I've certainly never used one. I did an oil change on my 65k mile Toyota celica yesterday btw, I just bang the car detas into opie oils website and get whatever they suggest.

[anonymous-user]

for the wynn

good advice tho, but diesel oil is always black...

[175gt]

MikesRover25 said:

1. Pull out the dip stick,

I tend to pull out, wipe, re-enter and then see where I'm at...;)

[VinceFox]

I find revving the crap out of it while draining the oil helps push the stubborn bits out.

[eltax91]

Mike. Love the idiots guide. I got stuck at number 1 though. Where's the dipstick on my e61 525i? For that matter, the wife has a VAG 1.9tdi and the oil is always black, even immediately after an oil change, should I change it every day to be sure?

Lastly, I found the bleed screw for my oil system, it's defo not a drain plug, it's a bleed screw. Do I undo this to let the air out of my oil system?

Cheers in advance for the help.

[M Powered]

VinceFox said:

I find revving the crap out of it while draining the oil helps push the stubborn bits out.

Ha ha. Just wait until it's dripping before doing this, right?

[Hammer67]

Mike, how do get the new oil in when at no point have you located and removed the oil cap? And do any of the mating surfaces or threads get cleaned at any point? What about a new sump plug sealing washer? [/hairsplitting]

[oilslick]

VinceFox said:

I find revving the crap out of it while draining the oil helps push the stubborn bits out.

I like to give it a nice flush with a hosepipe just to make sure.

[Meteor Madness]

eltax91 said:

For that matter, the wife has a VAG