Painting / Sealing Garage Floors
Discussion
All,
Just preparing new garage decorations for 4.0 Chimera pending its arrival next month. Can anybody advise me on the best technique for painting a new smooth concrete garage floor. I am confused as to the best procedure. I have had the following suggestions:
1) Sweep floor then seal with concrete sealer - 2 coats - leave for a few days then paint with floor paint mixed with PVA Glue.
2) Sweep floor then paint floor first - 2 coats - follow up with sealer after painting.
Your comments & experience would be much appreciated.
Just preparing new garage decorations for 4.0 Chimera pending its arrival next month. Can anybody advise me on the best technique for painting a new smooth concrete garage floor. I am confused as to the best procedure. I have had the following suggestions:
1) Sweep floor then seal with concrete sealer - 2 coats - leave for a few days then paint with floor paint mixed with PVA Glue.
2) Sweep floor then paint floor first - 2 coats - follow up with sealer after painting.
Your comments & experience would be much appreciated.
Concrete sealer first then two coats of a good quality floor paint.... A word of caution though,floor paint can be very slippy when wet.Mix some coarse sand/grit in with second coat to give non slipsurface... Particularly at the front of the car where you will be standing to do any engine checking etc.
Have a look at this link.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=190734
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=190734
Personally I faced this question when I built a brand new home for our then newly ordered Tamora. In the end I used Wickes garage paint. Gave it 2 coats of sealant - certainly make sure its well ventilated as I was as high as a kite at the end of it. Then two coats of there grey paint. For me with the slight roughness I put into the concrete its been brilliant, lived with it for 1.5years and it looks as good as new!
cheers
Simon
cheers
Simon
I have used the garage floor paint from screwfix giving the floor 3 coats. However it looks a mess after a few months when the heat from the tyres lifts the sealant/paint were the tyres are. So I end up with 8 patches of white concrete (double garage). Resealing or putting down extra coats has no effect, the stiff still comes off. even tried a different make but still it comes off.
I like the idea of tiling it, I will go and checkout the costs.
So Ive had it with the paint stuff it just doesnt last, the wife says I should leave the car outside until the tyres are cold!
Ahhhh what do wifes know
>> Edited by sportie on Sunday 29th January 10:33
I like the idea of tiling it, I will go and checkout the costs.
So Ive had it with the paint stuff it just doesnt last, the wife says I should leave the car outside until the tyres are cold!
Ahhhh what do wifes know
>> Edited by sportie on Sunday 29th January 10:33
sportie said:
I have used the garage floor paint from screwfix giving the floor 3 coats. However it looks a mess after a few months when the heat from the tyres lifts the sealant/paint were the tyres are. So I end up with 8 patches of white concrete (double garage). Resealing or putting down extra coats has no effect, the stiff still comes off. even tried a different make but still it comes off.
I had the same problem with paint lifting where the tyres had been, now have a garage with a tiled floor which was already there when we moved in
With the high cost of good quality floor paint tiling is not such an un-reasonable option.What you need is 2-pack floor paint,this stuff goes rock hard and nothing will lift it,you should be able to get it from industrial paint suppliers.If you are building a new garage you should spec a high strength mix such as C30(lots of cement in it) for the floor,insted of leaving it rough after tamping you trowel it up using a flooring trowel which is bigger than a plastering one,I used a youngman to span the width.I troweled my floor 3 times,the last time it had nearly gone off and polished up a treat, it has such a good finish that oil just wipes off and it makes no dust!.
This is how they do the floors in B+Q,but they use a power float.
This is how they do the floors in B+Q,but they use a power float.
topsparks said:Should you aim for such a smooth finish?
What you need is 2-pack floor paint,this stuff goes rock hard and nothing will lift it,you should be able to get it from industrial paint suppliers.If you are building a new garage you should spec a high strength mix such as C30(lots of cement in it) for the floor,insted of leaving it rough after tamping you trowel it up using a flooring trowel which is bigger than a plastering one,I used a youngman to span the width.I troweled my floor 3 times,the last time it had nearly gone off and polished up a treat, it has such a good finish that oil just wipes off and it makes no dust!.
This is how they do the floors in B+Q,but they use a power float.
Does the 2-pack need a surface texture to key into?
Not doubting your knowledge just trying to clarify things a bit.
I’m soon to be spec’ing the floor in my new build garage and this is exactly the sort of info I need.
On PH in the past people have advised reinforcing the floor and also some form of insulation. Insulation sounds like a good idea but unless this weakens the floor surely reinforcing is over the top even with jacks and axle stands in constant use? Discuss…
5yearstobuyatvr said:
All,
Just preparing new garage decorations for 4.0 Chimera pending its arrival next month. Can anybody advise me on the best technique for painting a new smooth concrete garage floor. I am confused as to the best procedure. I have had the following suggestions:
1) Sweep floor then seal with concrete sealer - 2 coats - leave for a few days then paint with floor paint mixed with PVA Glue.
2) Sweep floor then paint floor first - 2 coats - follow up with sealer after painting.
Your comments & experience would be much appreciated.
I did it like this but mixed about 10% spirit into the first coat which makes flow into the concrete and seal it a bit more.
I'm using 4 carpet tiles where the warm tires sit to stop the paint lifting.
Here in the first lesson on Industrial Flooring!!
The problems you are all having is lack of adhesion of the coating to the substrate. 3 possible reasons for this
1. A lack of preparation of concrete floor.
2. A 'damp floor' ie no damp proof membrane under slab
3. Poor quality flooring material.
Taking these in turn.
The ideal surface to coat is one where you can see the course and fine aggregates on the surface. This means cement layer on the surface has been removed, this layer is weak to bond to. You may need to mechanically abrade the surface and vacuum it before you apply the system.
Mositure of the concrete is important for adhesion, if you have a new slab, say 150mm thick, you will need to leave it for approximately 6 months to dry out before you coat it! If you have a slab without a damp proof membrane then forget it unless you want to go for a proffesionally installed system. The best way to find out if you have a dry concrete is to duck tape a clear sheet of plastic to the concrete and leave it for several days, if you get condensation between concrete and and plastic you have a damp concrete.
2 part non solvented materials are mainly used in car manufacturing industry and multi storey car parks. You can used 2 part waterbased materials if you your slab is slightly damp.
Smooth coated surfaces are only slippery when wet or dirty its the same principle as slick/wets for tyres. Aggregate inclusion can help, there are several ways of doing this.
If anybody wants to know more send me a mail and I will try and help you out!
The problems you are all having is lack of adhesion of the coating to the substrate. 3 possible reasons for this
1. A lack of preparation of concrete floor.
2. A 'damp floor' ie no damp proof membrane under slab
3. Poor quality flooring material.
Taking these in turn.
The ideal surface to coat is one where you can see the course and fine aggregates on the surface. This means cement layer on the surface has been removed, this layer is weak to bond to. You may need to mechanically abrade the surface and vacuum it before you apply the system.
Mositure of the concrete is important for adhesion, if you have a new slab, say 150mm thick, you will need to leave it for approximately 6 months to dry out before you coat it! If you have a slab without a damp proof membrane then forget it unless you want to go for a proffesionally installed system. The best way to find out if you have a dry concrete is to duck tape a clear sheet of plastic to the concrete and leave it for several days, if you get condensation between concrete and and plastic you have a damp concrete.
2 part non solvented materials are mainly used in car manufacturing industry and multi storey car parks. You can used 2 part waterbased materials if you your slab is slightly damp.
Smooth coated surfaces are only slippery when wet or dirty its the same principle as slick/wets for tyres. Aggregate inclusion can help, there are several ways of doing this.
If anybody wants to know more send me a mail and I will try and help you out!
gazza1234 said:
go all the way tile it am a tiler get cheap tiles just imagine the look on your mates and neighbours face when you open the door
I was thinking of doing this - but talking to a few people there was a concern that the tiles would crack under the compressive force of tyres or jacks (or dropping a hammer for instance). Would tiles be durable enough? and how would they be laid so that there were not "weak" areas ?? - I'd imagine you'd need to lay them on a Sh!tload of adhesive???
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