the last word in paint restorer/car detailing
Discussion
.... to be completed by you lot.
I've just bought an eighties 911 with faded guards paintwork.
before I set about it with T-cut can anyone recommend any other paint restoration products?
I know autoglym do one but I've heard that this is even harsher than T-cut -
any opinions/ideas?
other than a respray :rolleyes:
cheers!
I've just bought an eighties 911 with faded guards paintwork.
before I set about it with T-cut can anyone recommend any other paint restoration products?
I know autoglym do one but I've heard that this is even harsher than T-cut -
any opinions/ideas?
other than a respray :rolleyes:
cheers!
I would take it to a valeting firm and have the apintowrk "Mopped"
this is like a power polish & cut in one - takes skill to do, and of course if they louse it up, you have a bit on comeback.
Then once mopped, get them to wax & detail the rest of the car - et voila.
Hope that helps
Chris
this is like a power polish & cut in one - takes skill to do, and of course if they louse it up, you have a bit on comeback.
Then once mopped, get them to wax & detail the rest of the car - et voila.
Hope that helps
Chris
BERGS2 said:
Cheers - I've noticed when it comes to bodywork you can ask three people - and get three opinions!
Is T-Cut generally regarded as a no-no?
Firstly the anorak bit - it's not Guards red it's India red (common misconception) - and sorry
Secondly, T-Cut is ideal for this other than these cars had a plastic coat on the original paint, so you risk losing that.
I have to agree that if you can find a good and recommended pro to do the job then let them although I'm sure that you wouldn't go too far wrong with T-Cut.
My dad has a 944 s2 in guards red that he likes to leave out in the sun forever, and it gets a bet pink. Once a year or so I t-cut the affected areas and it comes up brilliantly, add colour polish for extra effect. If I ever do go through the paintwork maybe he will finally repaint the squiffy bits.
So what would you use T-Cut for and how do the two variants differ (one for non-metallic and one for metallic + pearlescant)?
My motor has annoying little tar spots that seems to be embedding themselves into the paint. I've used Autoglym Super Resin Polish on these areas but it struggles to remove the spots. I've bought a bottle of T-Cut for metallic/pearl paint but I've not tried it yet. Should I bother?
DC
ps, sorry for the thread hijack attempt.
My motor has annoying little tar spots that seems to be embedding themselves into the paint. I've used Autoglym Super Resin Polish on these areas but it struggles to remove the spots. I've bought a bottle of T-Cut for metallic/pearl paint but I've not tried it yet. Should I bother?
DC
ps, sorry for the thread hijack attempt.
DavidCane said:
So what would you use T-Cut for and how do the two variants differ (one for non-metallic and one for metallic + pearlescant)?
My motor has annoying little tar spots that seems to be embedding themselves into the paint. I've used Autoglym Super Resin Polish on these areas but it struggles to remove the spots. I've bought a bottle of T-Cut for metallic/pearl paint but I've not tried it yet. Should I bother?
DC
ps, sorry for the thread hijack attempt.
Just to remove tar spots I'd look for either 'Intensive Tar Remover' from Autoglym or use Automotive clay; you can get Meguiar's Clay from Halfords.
As for T-Cut, I think it is too harsh to be used in most situations; you are better off getting any work done professionaly using the correct tools. As for the difference between the two you mention, I expect not a lot; they all do the same thing; just remove a layer of clearcoat.
Regards
BERGS2 said:
.... to be completed by you lot.
I've just bought an eighties 911 with faded guards paintwork.
before I set about it with T-cut can anyone recommend any other paint restoration products?
I know autoglym do one but I've heard that this is even harsher than T-cut -
any opinions/ideas?
other than a respray
cheers!
Assuming the 'fading' is restricted to the clearcoat, I expect all you are looking at is oxidation; this paint is, I assume, two stage paint? i.e. a colour layer over which there is the laquer or clearocat layer?
As others have suggested I'd avoid T-Cut; in my opinion its for people who want acceptable results and who don't have access to the equiptment for a perfect job. If you can find a *good* bodywork finisher then get in quick; they are, in my experience, quite rare; working with a rotary buffer requires skill if you are not to add more defects than are removed.
Or, if you want to get a bit more 'hands on' get your own orbital buffer and use something like Super Resin Polish; a product very similar to Super Resin was used in this example with amazing results:
http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23482
Regards
3M Finesse It
You have 2 choices: use a buffer (preferred) or hand but you need LOTS of elbow grease.
If you use a rotary buffer ensure that it has a variable speed controller. This helps when you first use the equipment. Also, some of the buffers that have this feature are either on or off, there is no ramping feature. You want a buffer that you can squeeze the trigger a little and get a slow speed and as you apply more pressure, the rpm's increase. The speed controller acts like a limiter on these types of machines. Product says to buff at 1800 rpm's but I would start at 1500 and work up as my comfort increase with the equipment.
Make sure the foam pad is cantered on the back-up pad. If it isn't the buffer could throw you around some. When using the buffer, be careful on edges, around the sunroof seals (hard to clean) and do not do the Porsche Decals and the stoneguards by the wheels. You can either tape off the parts of the car you don't want buffed (door handles, windshield washers, black bumper guards etc... or be very careful buffing around them). This product is difficult to remove if it has been buffed into the plastic
Wash and dry car. Apply a small amount (this is important) to 1/2 a panel and begin buffing. Apply fair pressure to the buffer and angle the buffer so that the tip of the pad is doing the work. A perfectly flat buffer is difficult to handle. Depending on the age of the paint, you may get some smearing. This is Ok. You can remove it by applying more Finesse-it or washing afterwards. Another option, and the one I use all the time, is to wet the foam pad (and wring out) before buffing. This increases the amount of sling that flies around but makes the product easier to use in my opinion.
Let up on the pressure as the product begins "dry" Continue around the car. It is best to start high and work your way down (roof, bonnet, back, front, sides) Clean car and wax as soon as possible. This stuff will get everywhere so make sure you clean it well. It takes usually twice as long to clean as it does to buff. A toothbrush and some soap works well on hard to reach areas.
On curved edges (transition from a horizontal to vertical surface) buff lightly. This is where the paint is the thinnest. - Be careful around antennas and other similar items. A buffer going at 1800 rpm's can rip it right off the car. - Keep the buffer cord behind you at all times. When the cord gets tangled with a rotating buffer, flesh can be torn open and damage done to the vehicle as well. I usually tape the cord to me out of the way. A car can be done with one pad. To clean, run pad under water and wring dry. - cover window washer jets with tape.
Costs from memory for a previous question were
3M Finesse-it about 10 pounds a litre - will last forever
3M Waffle pad - about 5 pounds
You have 2 choices: use a buffer (preferred) or hand but you need LOTS of elbow grease.
If you use a rotary buffer ensure that it has a variable speed controller. This helps when you first use the equipment. Also, some of the buffers that have this feature are either on or off, there is no ramping feature. You want a buffer that you can squeeze the trigger a little and get a slow speed and as you apply more pressure, the rpm's increase. The speed controller acts like a limiter on these types of machines. Product says to buff at 1800 rpm's but I would start at 1500 and work up as my comfort increase with the equipment.
Make sure the foam pad is cantered on the back-up pad. If it isn't the buffer could throw you around some. When using the buffer, be careful on edges, around the sunroof seals (hard to clean) and do not do the Porsche Decals and the stoneguards by the wheels. You can either tape off the parts of the car you don't want buffed (door handles, windshield washers, black bumper guards etc... or be very careful buffing around them). This product is difficult to remove if it has been buffed into the plastic
Wash and dry car. Apply a small amount (this is important) to 1/2 a panel and begin buffing. Apply fair pressure to the buffer and angle the buffer so that the tip of the pad is doing the work. A perfectly flat buffer is difficult to handle. Depending on the age of the paint, you may get some smearing. This is Ok. You can remove it by applying more Finesse-it or washing afterwards. Another option, and the one I use all the time, is to wet the foam pad (and wring out) before buffing. This increases the amount of sling that flies around but makes the product easier to use in my opinion.
Let up on the pressure as the product begins "dry" Continue around the car. It is best to start high and work your way down (roof, bonnet, back, front, sides) Clean car and wax as soon as possible. This stuff will get everywhere so make sure you clean it well. It takes usually twice as long to clean as it does to buff. A toothbrush and some soap works well on hard to reach areas.
On curved edges (transition from a horizontal to vertical surface) buff lightly. This is where the paint is the thinnest. - Be careful around antennas and other similar items. A buffer going at 1800 rpm's can rip it right off the car. - Keep the buffer cord behind you at all times. When the cord gets tangled with a rotating buffer, flesh can be torn open and damage done to the vehicle as well. I usually tape the cord to me out of the way. A car can be done with one pad. To clean, run pad under water and wring dry. - cover window washer jets with tape.
Costs from memory for a previous question were
3M Finesse-it about 10 pounds a litre - will last forever
3M Waffle pad - about 5 pounds
Would you recommend a rotary for use by a novice? It is quite easy to burn through the clearcoat, and that for an enthusiast (as opposed to a professional refinisher) a random orbital buffer was much safer, even if results to the same standard are impossible to achieve in such a short time period.
Incidentally, what would you recommend for swirl mark removal or filling for paint in very good condition? I know of a number of suitable products marketed in America by 3M, but the naming system in England is somewhat different. Perfect-It II Hand Glaze was mentioned, although I think it may have been superseded by a newer product.
Cheers
Incidentally, what would you recommend for swirl mark removal or filling for paint in very good condition? I know of a number of suitable products marketed in America by 3M, but the naming system in England is somewhat different. Perfect-It II Hand Glaze was mentioned, although I think it may have been superseded by a newer product.
Cheers
It's usually only metallics that have a coat of clear lacquer over the top of the basecoat, flat colours, such as the red that BERGS2 is talking about wouldn't normally have this. The only exception to this is if the car has been sprayed with an acrylic based paint. The lack of a lacquer is why the paint oxidises and goes faded and dull in the first place. If you polish the car and the cloth comes off the same colour as the paint, there is no lacquer. If it comes off clear, or a sort of mucky grey, there is a coat of lacquer. A coat of lacquer onto a flat colour is one way of stopping it oxidising in the first place.
With a flat colour with no lacquer, you'll stand a much greater chance of ruining the paintwork with a rotary polisher than a bit of T-Cut and elbow grease. Particularly with red, it is very easy to end up with darker coloured swirls where you have overdone it and overheated the paint.
With a flat colour with no lacquer, you'll stand a much greater chance of ruining the paintwork with a rotary polisher than a bit of T-Cut and elbow grease. Particularly with red, it is very easy to end up with darker coloured swirls where you have overdone it and overheated the paint.
I don't believe there are many (if any) cars manufactured today that do not have a clearcoat; laquer is certainly not limited to metallics in my experience. However, it is possible that the car in question may have single stage paint, in which case all is needed is probably a VERY mild abrasive to remove the top layer of faded colour coat to reveal the fresh paint beneath. I agree with regard a rotary polisher; it is likely to be too aggressive if the paint is single stage.
Cheers
Cheers
randtis said:
Would you recommend a rotary for use by a novice? It is quite easy to burn through the
clearcoat
Incidentally, what would you recommend for swirl mark removal or filling for paint in very good condition?
Cheers
The 3M pads have a waffle construction and do not generate heat in the same way as a flat pad
Yep 3M Imperial Hand Glaze is absolutely great
cuneus said:
The 3M pads have a waffle construction and do not generate heat in the same way as a flat pad
Yep 3M Imperial Hand Glaze is absolutely great
Interesting stuff; have you ever used an orbital buffer? If so what did you think of it? I'd still be wary about using a rotary myself for fear of causing irrepairable damage.
Is IHG suitable for application by hand? I assume it will fill and not remove swirl marks since I have found that in most cases a machine is required to produce the necessary heat to remove defects.
Cheers
Chaps thanks very much for the advice - what I plumped for in the end was:
1) Standard wash with halfords car Shampoo
2) Dry with a leather
3) Meguires Quick Clay with Quick detailer lubricant
4) Autoglym Super Resin Polish
5) Meguires NXT wax x 2 coats
The most fascinating part was the Quick Clay (i've never used a clay product on any of my cars before) - don't know whether is was the effect off too much sun but it really did seem to pull out all sorts on ingrained crap from the paint - I truly am a cycnic reformed!
- BTW - does anyone know the best way to store the Clay once opened? I've just wrapped it in clingfilm -
The super resin polish worked very well on the faded areas when the paint had not been redone - two panels had had paint at some stage over the last 16 years - that was two pack clear coat (as corectly pointed out abovve no red residue was left on the polishing cloth)
NXT wax went onn very easily and buffed to a great deep shine.
Considering the state of the paint before, I am more than happy with the results for a reasonable outlay (ony bought the meguires clay & wax)
could get into this detailing lark....
Unfortunately the whole process took around 3 1/2 hours and like a fool I went without sunblock so now I'm redder than my car
pics to be added..(of the car)
1) Standard wash with halfords car Shampoo
2) Dry with a leather
3) Meguires Quick Clay with Quick detailer lubricant
4) Autoglym Super Resin Polish
5) Meguires NXT wax x 2 coats
The most fascinating part was the Quick Clay (i've never used a clay product on any of my cars before) - don't know whether is was the effect off too much sun but it really did seem to pull out all sorts on ingrained crap from the paint - I truly am a cycnic reformed!
- BTW - does anyone know the best way to store the Clay once opened? I've just wrapped it in clingfilm -
The super resin polish worked very well on the faded areas when the paint had not been redone - two panels had had paint at some stage over the last 16 years - that was two pack clear coat (as corectly pointed out abovve no red residue was left on the polishing cloth)
NXT wax went onn very easily and buffed to a great deep shine.
Considering the state of the paint before, I am more than happy with the results for a reasonable outlay (ony bought the meguires clay & wax)
could get into this detailing lark....
Unfortunately the whole process took around 3 1/2 hours and like a fool I went without sunblock so now I'm redder than my car
pics to be added..(of the car)
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