Big power Westfield build
Discussion
Be interesting to find that out!
Car is with Nortech Performance this week. We are having the twin scroll manifold built and a down pipe and exhaust system. Swapped from 3.5" to 3" as they felt 3.5" was overkill.
We are also putting O2 sensor locations on each of the primaries and one in the billet collector. I was going to put EGT sensors in but have heard about tips dropping off and causing all sorts of issues.
One of the reasons for multiple o2 sensors is that the YB always goes on cylinder 4 so we want to look closely at individual cylinder fuel trims to take care of this. Me having a billet Swedish manifold could make the car more prone to disparity on airflow. If I can`t get it to work we`ll swap to a different plenum.
Someone also offered me good money for my Motec M400 so that`s sold and have had delivered today an M800 with Traction, DBW, Launch, Flat shift, 1MB logging and will buy lambda operation. Will look at using a VAG 1.8T E-throttle and pedal as the bolt pattern happens to be exactly the same as YB.
Car should come back from Rotherham next week straight to Tylah Motorsport who are fitting a full caged roll cage, engineering the rear rad and header tank location, water pipes, oil cooler and location, dry sump tank, building up the intercooler and fitting to chassis. We`ll be looking at ducting as well.
Car is with Nortech Performance this week. We are having the twin scroll manifold built and a down pipe and exhaust system. Swapped from 3.5" to 3" as they felt 3.5" was overkill.
We are also putting O2 sensor locations on each of the primaries and one in the billet collector. I was going to put EGT sensors in but have heard about tips dropping off and causing all sorts of issues.
One of the reasons for multiple o2 sensors is that the YB always goes on cylinder 4 so we want to look closely at individual cylinder fuel trims to take care of this. Me having a billet Swedish manifold could make the car more prone to disparity on airflow. If I can`t get it to work we`ll swap to a different plenum.
Someone also offered me good money for my Motec M400 so that`s sold and have had delivered today an M800 with Traction, DBW, Launch, Flat shift, 1MB logging and will buy lambda operation. Will look at using a VAG 1.8T E-throttle and pedal as the bolt pattern happens to be exactly the same as YB.
Car should come back from Rotherham next week straight to Tylah Motorsport who are fitting a full caged roll cage, engineering the rear rad and header tank location, water pipes, oil cooler and location, dry sump tank, building up the intercooler and fitting to chassis. We`ll be looking at ducting as well.
I spoke with engine builder yesterday, he's starting on that on Saturday with gas flowing the head.
Has asked me whether I want to change to one piece valves. I'm not sure.
Chassis is being re engineered at the moment for intercooler mounting and rad mounting etc etc will then have to look at loom and ecu install and mapping etc.
Realistically........my wife is expecting mid Aug so I would be very surprised if I get it done for any meaningful use this summer.
Would be nice though!
Has asked me whether I want to change to one piece valves. I'm not sure.
Chassis is being re engineered at the moment for intercooler mounting and rad mounting etc etc will then have to look at loom and ecu install and mapping etc.
Realistically........my wife is expecting mid Aug so I would be very surprised if I get it done for any meaningful use this summer.
Would be nice though!
NotNormal said:
Personally think a more elegant solution could have been done with the rad but hey if your happy with the rad in that position then I guess that's your prerogative.
Indeed.I would of thought it would create a fair amount of drag, plus there's no ducting so air could hit the fins and go around the rad rather than through it - following the path of least resistance.
Would like to ask people`s thoughts about the set up of the cooling system.
Most set ups have the expansion tank as the highest point on the system for self bleeding and filling etc. Obvs this is going to be A. difficult and B. even more ugly. Do you think I could get away without an expansion tank if I used waterless coolant?
I can fill the system from the top hose of the rad and use a vacuum to pull all the way through the system. I`m sure with a bit of jiggery pokery with raising rear end for example I can get it filled with no air locks.
Having never done anything like this before I`m just trying to get my head round it.
I think with using the Evans stuff with it not pressurizing as much as water it will also be a lot safer what with the location of the rad.
Most set ups have the expansion tank as the highest point on the system for self bleeding and filling etc. Obvs this is going to be A. difficult and B. even more ugly. Do you think I could get away without an expansion tank if I used waterless coolant?
I can fill the system from the top hose of the rad and use a vacuum to pull all the way through the system. I`m sure with a bit of jiggery pokery with raising rear end for example I can get it filled with no air locks.
Having never done anything like this before I`m just trying to get my head round it.
I think with using the Evans stuff with it not pressurizing as much as water it will also be a lot safer what with the location of the rad.
Brilliant build, enjoying it lots so far!
I have tried to do a quick read up on waterless coolant, and have not found anything definitive, however I am still under the impression that whatever liquid is used, it will expand when heated. (I did find lots of complaints about the stuff though) Also I would not want a hot water system behind my head that does not have a pressure release valve somewhere else on the system, should something go wrong.
Random suggestion - where space is available, fit and expansion tank, fit a pressure relief valve going from any part of the system to the top of the tank, and a one way valve allowing liquid from the bottom of the tank back into the system. Put a small valve into the top of the rad that you can suck a vacuum on it / attach an automatic air vent to it.
Yes, these are usually placed at the highest point of the system, but the only reason I can see why is ease of filling and if there is a fault with any pipework the system does not empty itself through the expansion tank.
I have tried to do a quick read up on waterless coolant, and have not found anything definitive, however I am still under the impression that whatever liquid is used, it will expand when heated. (I did find lots of complaints about the stuff though) Also I would not want a hot water system behind my head that does not have a pressure release valve somewhere else on the system, should something go wrong.
Random suggestion - where space is available, fit and expansion tank, fit a pressure relief valve going from any part of the system to the top of the tank, and a one way valve allowing liquid from the bottom of the tank back into the system. Put a small valve into the top of the rad that you can suck a vacuum on it / attach an automatic air vent to it.
Yes, these are usually placed at the highest point of the system, but the only reason I can see why is ease of filling and if there is a fault with any pipework the system does not empty itself through the expansion tank.
I completely agree with you, common sense says it will expand when heated. I dont really want to use it but it may be an answer?
Your suggestion for piping sounds feasible.
Probably a little way off for this but it's annoying me. I think a lot of this is going to be suck it and see. Not exactly re inventing the wheel though!
Your suggestion for piping sounds feasible.
Probably a little way off for this but it's annoying me. I think a lot of this is going to be suck it and see. Not exactly re inventing the wheel though!
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