Discussion
Sorry Neil was out in the garage measuring up my Type 35 ready for the RB211 conversion ....
On a very serious note ... could you post replies like that after tea time please ... "Dad what on earth are you watching on Youtube ...." !! Nothing children ... fumbles for the mute button ...
As the nice lady in the video would say ... "Can we get back to the job in hand please .."
What does the nearside rear of a proper 302 manifold look like ....... ??
Hi Arthur
Lovely build on your 5000M, and thank you very much for posting all the pics. Certainly good inspiration for me as I slowly work away at grafting the 302/T5 from my smelly old Mustang into my engineless rust-bucket Taimar
Do you have any close-up pics of how the engine mounts and brackets work please? You have a nice clear one of the gearbox end but I can't quite figure the details of the front engine points.
Appreciate any different angled pics you can share.
cheers
Nick
Lovely build on your 5000M, and thank you very much for posting all the pics. Certainly good inspiration for me as I slowly work away at grafting the 302/T5 from my smelly old Mustang into my engineless rust-bucket Taimar
Do you have any close-up pics of how the engine mounts and brackets work please? You have a nice clear one of the gearbox end but I can't quite figure the details of the front engine points.
Appreciate any different angled pics you can share.
cheers
Nick
I suggest moving the engine mount back towards the starter on that side of the engine. It gives you more room for the exhaust manifold and keeps the exhaust away from the starter. It has certainly made the whole installation neater and better on mine.
I also recommend fitting a Chevy S10 rear end to the Ford T5 so that the gearlever pivot is reasonably far forward and not under your armpit. Standard T5 is just a little further back than the 3000 M position. If you have to fit a remote oil filter then your engine is too far forward.
I also recommend fitting a Chevy S10 rear end to the Ford T5 so that the gearlever pivot is reasonably far forward and not under your armpit. Standard T5 is just a little further back than the 3000 M position. If you have to fit a remote oil filter then your engine is too far forward.
I suggest moving the engine mount back towards the starter on the starter side of the engine. It gives you more room for the exhaust manifold and keeps the exhaust away from the starter. It has certainly made the whole installation neater and better on mine.
I also recommend fitting a Chevy S10 rear end to the Ford T5 so that the gearlever pivot is reasonably far forward and not under your armpit. Standard T5 gearlever position is just a little further back than the 3000 M gearlever position. If you have to fit a remote oil filter then your engine is too far forward.
I also recommend fitting a Chevy S10 rear end to the Ford T5 so that the gearlever pivot is reasonably far forward and not under your armpit. Standard T5 gearlever position is just a little further back than the 3000 M gearlever position. If you have to fit a remote oil filter then your engine is too far forward.
Thanks John
I want to get the engine just far enough forward so that I can remove the heads with the engine in-situ (rather than like poor old electron who has to remove the body to get at the rear-most head bolts on his professionally engineered 5000M
).
On your proper John Wadman car, do you have enough room for undamaged downwards-turning steel (or cast iron?) headers or do they have to be partly flattened to clear the chassis rails? I'm trying to avoid this on mine if I can, and have to say I am quite taken by the up/forwards/down manifold that Arthur has, which looks similar to either the Chimera or modern Griffith, I forget which.
cheers
Nick
I want to get the engine just far enough forward so that I can remove the heads with the engine in-situ (rather than like poor old electron who has to remove the body to get at the rear-most head bolts on his professionally engineered 5000M
).On your proper John Wadman car, do you have enough room for undamaged downwards-turning steel (or cast iron?) headers or do they have to be partly flattened to clear the chassis rails? I'm trying to avoid this on mine if I can, and have to say I am quite taken by the up/forwards/down manifold that Arthur has, which looks similar to either the Chimera or modern Griffith, I forget which.
cheers
Nick
chassyman said:
i always fancied fitting into a vixen 2500 a vauxhall senator 24valver, now that would be seriosly fast and have the sound to go with it. if it was fast enough for the police it should do quite nicely, especialy as a vixen is much lighter!!!
if and when i get my 2500m back on the rd ,and then blow up the turbo v8 rover , id like to try a 4 litre 6 cylinder 24 valve jag lump ,that i just happen to have in the garden ...mmm. If you use cast iron exhaust manifolds you should use Ford Bronco 1986 - 96 on the RHS. I have two numbers for this unit. 600-2351 which may be a NAPA number and 182.32 which is hand written on the info sheet that was with my car.
LHS manifold is 86 - 91 Lincoln / Mercury 5.0 or 86-88 Cougar or Thunderbird, NAPA number 600-2378 or hand written number 297.22. This is what was fitted to mine when I got it before I changed to fabricated tubular manifolds. I was told that these were the best cast iron manifolds for power and they fitted well. I am not sure my tubular manifolds make much more power than these did.
LHS manifold is 86 - 91 Lincoln / Mercury 5.0 or 86-88 Cougar or Thunderbird, NAPA number 600-2378 or hand written number 297.22. This is what was fitted to mine when I got it before I changed to fabricated tubular manifolds. I was told that these were the best cast iron manifolds for power and they fitted well. I am not sure my tubular manifolds make much more power than these did.
Hi All,
I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
dryden said:
Hi All,
I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
Why does it have to be "without all that sorted?" As we've discussed here, these issues aren't individual, but related. Fix them, and enjoy. I'd begin with a windshield hold-down tie strap/rod, and see how that does. Your roof may not be in immaculate condition, or require fitment of some missing pieces. At least, the latching mechanism should hold the front section closed, even if the rest ends up in tatters from the sheer speed. I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
Also, if you have all that going on, it's surprising that the rear glass hasn't parted company with its happy home.
Best,
B.
dryden said:
Hi All,
I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
hi dryden , that sounds very frustrating .one thing you may like to know ,about 21 years ago i had a note left on my tvr in highmoor oxfordshire ,,it was from a lady who was trying to find another rear window for her m ..apparently what had happened was she had the sunroof open halfway ,and the wind tore it out of its rails and it flipped over and smashed the rear window .I have an original Taimar, ( i think, as it was once Mr Simpson's ) in good ( i think..ect..) condition. now, when I am able, and these occasions are rare, to really stress it,s limits, the sun roof rips off, or, the roof parts company with the windscreen, the side window frames open into the airstream and start to violently shake.....It matters not how good is the chassis, these are aerodynamic issues, and without all that sorted, how can you enjoy all those horses?
regards robert
TVR_owner said:
jellison said:
Nice - are those Front uprights the std nasty stuff the Griff / Grannies had from the Spitfires / GT6's?
Jon,You need to accept the M series cars have much superior suspension components
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