Pat's Tuscan V6 restoration thread
Discussion
foxdog said:
Well foxdog......This car has now been withdrawn from the website that was quoted..... presumably sold.
I rest my case on the values being quoted by the classic car magazines, they are far too low.
tus6 said:
foxdog said:
Well foxdog......This car has now been withdrawn from the website that was quoted..... presumably sold.
I rest my case on the values being quoted by the classic car magazines, they are far too low.
watch out we will see it out and about soon at events once the work is done a great car like all older TVRs but these are that extra bit special.Andrew
Here's the lump.
With a tap of WD40 and a squirt with the hammer, the linkages freed off nicely and all four gears and reverse can be selected.
The gearbox oil was lovely and clear, just like the diff oil.
Not tried to turn the engine over yet. Pretty sure that water down the spout will have caused plenty of damage, but hopefully the block can be saved.
Engine number matches the chassis, purchase invoice and V5, so would like to retain the block if possible.
With a tap of WD40 and a squirt with the hammer, the linkages freed off nicely and all four gears and reverse can be selected.
The gearbox oil was lovely and clear, just like the diff oil.
Not tried to turn the engine over yet. Pretty sure that water down the spout will have caused plenty of damage, but hopefully the block can be saved.
Engine number matches the chassis, purchase invoice and V5, so would like to retain the block if possible.
Edited by Pat H on Tuesday 11th July 14:37
:Pat H said:
Here's the lump.
With a tap of WD40 and a squirt with the hammer, the linkages freed off nicely and all four gears and reverse can be selected.
The gearbox oil was lovely and clear, just like the diff oil.
Not tried to turn the engine over yet. Pretty sure that water down the spout will have caused plenty of damage, but hopefully the block can be saved.
Engine number matches the chassis, purchase invoice and V5, so would like to retain the block if possible.
Dont try pat. Just pull the heads off and fill the tops of the bores with oil, Better safe than sorry...With a tap of WD40 and a squirt with the hammer, the linkages freed off nicely and all four gears and reverse can be selected.
The gearbox oil was lovely and clear, just like the diff oil.
Not tried to turn the engine over yet. Pretty sure that water down the spout will have caused plenty of damage, but hopefully the block can be saved.
Engine number matches the chassis, purchase invoice and V5, so would like to retain the block if possible.
N.
heightswitch said:
heightswitchWhat is the difference between the original way the diff. is mounted and the modified way that you are suggesting?
All I have ever heard about the location/method/design of the diff. mounting is that it is probably a good idea to cut a hole in the fibreglass above the diff. and fabricate a removable panel to allow access to the diff. mounting bolts without the necessity to remove the body.
Not much to report.
Waiting for Keith to work his magic and produce a chassis for me. That's likely to be a couple of months.
Much uncertainty on the employment front precludes much other progress at the moment.
The modification to the diff mounting will do away with the batwing top mounting plate, which is reputedly a weak point.
Certainly mine was broken clean in two.
Hopefully Keith will read this and explain exactly how the diff will be mounted, or maybe someone has a photo of the "FIA" mounting arrangement?
Waiting for Keith to work his magic and produce a chassis for me. That's likely to be a couple of months.
Much uncertainty on the employment front precludes much other progress at the moment.
The modification to the diff mounting will do away with the batwing top mounting plate, which is reputedly a weak point.
Certainly mine was broken clean in two.
Hopefully Keith will read this and explain exactly how the diff will be mounted, or maybe someone has a photo of the "FIA" mounting arrangement?
Pat H said:
Stevo302 said:
What's the blue matting down? Could do with some good flooring in my garage.
www.eco-tile.netThe stuff is Ecotile 500/7 - Smooth Texture AD046130
Keep checking the Special Offers section until something turns up at an affordable price.
It is dead easy to fit, easy to clean, warmer than concrete and you can jack a car on it without damaging the tiles.
They even do a nice little ramp section for across the door of your garage.
Their customer care was great and the stuff turned up on a pallet 48 hours later.
My garage is about 38 square meters and it took me less than a day to lay them.
It's only failing is that it is not heat resistant.
If you do a lot of grinding and drop a red hot lump of old TVR chassis onto it, then it melts the surface of the tile and sticks to it.
Having said that, I think that tiles are pretty much the only option these days.
Don't waste your time with modern water based garage floor paints.
Well Pat at least one OE part for Your Car is Finished maybe this picture will stir you into renewed vigour to get her finished.
Finished them off today and came up well with a generous use of Autosol (ps has anyone got shares in the company as running out fast lol)and 0000 grade wire wool.
And good supply of energy drink.
Don't fit until the very end once your happy that the doors fit well and leave enough space for them as most cars have damaged sill plates due to the doors dropping.
looking forward to the next update hopefully we will see the new Chassis soon.
Andrew
Finished them off today and came up well with a generous use of Autosol (ps has anyone got shares in the company as running out fast lol)and 0000 grade wire wool.
And good supply of energy drink.
Don't fit until the very end once your happy that the doors fit well and leave enough space for them as most cars have damaged sill plates due to the doors dropping.
looking forward to the next update hopefully we will see the new Chassis soon.
Andrew
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