V8 in place of V6 - tight fit
Discussion
Slow M said:
OOOh luverly, if only I could afford that lot.I have stainless tubular manifolds going into a collect piece and a full stainless Rover system from there on so was hoping to modify what I have by cutting and welding. Looking at where my engine will sit,the only problem will be the two rearmost ports and that may not be a problem. I'll have to wait untill the gearbox arrives and then I can dry fit everything to the chassis. Lucky I have a bare chassis which will make things easier. Looking forward to working on the first problem
Getting on with it now but would like to know the size of the grease nipples on the rear driveshaft universal joints please. Mine are blocked and no grease getting into joints.
Best to buy new ones I think so if any one can help with the size and thread size I would be gratefull.
btw it's a Taimar
Thanks.
Best to buy new ones I think so if any one can help with the size and thread size I would be gratefull.
btw it's a Taimar
Thanks.
Edited by valvesetter on Saturday 1st May 20:19
I have a 302 engined 3000M built by a well known UK TVR specialist who doesn't contribute to this forum.
The car has been "built" for several years and run in several versions mainly for sprinting but was run on the road for a while in an attempt to get reliability. It has continually overheated and been unreliable.
On dismantling the top end I exposed the exhaust manifolds ...
Look closely and you will see the rear manifold has been dented to clear the chassis. The engine ran but developed a localised hot spot. This in turn led to the nearside head cracking between the exhaust port and the water jacket. Pressure testing in the car didn't initially reveal the cracks .. stripping the heads off did.
As the car now has an alloy radiator, light weight electric water pump and alloy heads I intend to bring the engine 1" further forward and remove the dent ..... sounds simple but I don't have the time just yet to dismantle everything so the job will have to wait a year .....
She will also have the rear end Adrian built up for me along with the correctly set up diff, anti roll bars (front and rear) ....
The car has been "built" for several years and run in several versions mainly for sprinting but was run on the road for a while in an attempt to get reliability. It has continually overheated and been unreliable.
On dismantling the top end I exposed the exhaust manifolds ...
Look closely and you will see the rear manifold has been dented to clear the chassis. The engine ran but developed a localised hot spot. This in turn led to the nearside head cracking between the exhaust port and the water jacket. Pressure testing in the car didn't initially reveal the cracks .. stripping the heads off did.
As the car now has an alloy radiator, light weight electric water pump and alloy heads I intend to bring the engine 1" further forward and remove the dent ..... sounds simple but I don't have the time just yet to dismantle everything so the job will have to wait a year .....
She will also have the rear end Adrian built up for me along with the correctly set up diff, anti roll bars (front and rear) ....
Electron said:
I have a 302 engined 3000M built by a well known UK TVR specialist who doesn't contribute to this forum.
...
On dismantling the top end I exposed the exhaust manifolds ...
What was obscuring this?...
On dismantling the top end I exposed the exhaust manifolds ...
Electron said:
Look closely and you will see the rear manifold has been dented to clear the chassis. The engine ran but developed a localised hot spot. This in turn led to the nearside head cracking between the exhaust port and the water jacket. Pressure testing in the car didn't initially reveal the cracks .. stripping the heads off did.
As the car now has an alloy radiator, light weight electric water pump and alloy heads I intend to bring the engine 1" further forward and remove the dent ..... sounds simple but I don't have the time just yet to dismantle everything so the job will have to wait a year .....
1.)Before you do anything else, ensure that the flange location on the new heads is the same as it was when you took that picture. Aluminium aftermarket heads often revise port shapes and, therefore, bolt-up changes relative to the original location.As the car now has an alloy radiator, light weight electric water pump and alloy heads I intend to bring the engine 1" further forward and remove the dent ..... sounds simple but I don't have the time just yet to dismantle everything so the job will have to wait a year .....
2.)Consider Stainless_Steve's recommendation.
3.)You may want to have a look at turning that one pipe down more rapidly (and leave the engine where it is)
B
Just taken delivery of my gearbox, it's a rover SD1 Vitess box in excellent order complete with flywheel and clutch. Problem is that it is only 27 inches long and if I use the prop that I have then the back of the engine will be up against the top crossmember on the chassis and also it wont drop in between the rails. I'll have to move the engine forward and alter the prop or try and get the engine lower in the chassis to clear the top rails.
Back to the drawing board.
Back to the drawing board.
valvesetter said:
Just taken delivery of my gearbox, it's a rover SD1 Vitess box in excellent order complete with flywheel and clutch. Problem is that it is only 27 inches long and if I use the prop that I have then the back of the engine will be up against the top crossmember on the chassis and also it wont drop in between the rails. I'll have to move the engine forward and alter the prop or try and get the engine lower in the chassis to clear the top rails.
Back to the drawing board.
The V8S prop is telescopic - it looks suspiciously similar to a Range / Land Rover front prop but thats a guess - but it does mean if you used something similar you'd have no issues getting a prop sorted to the exact length.Back to the drawing board.
It has a flange each end with a telescopic bit near the gearbox - presumably to allow for axle articulation on the RR.
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 25th May 12:44
Thinking about it on the V8S I don't actually think you would be able to get the prop out if it was fixed length - you have to retract it to remove it.
The suggestion wasn't to use a second hand prop just the principle.
There is a bracing bar across the lower part of the chassis forward of the diff flange - so the prop would not drop there - and as normal the gearbox flange is higher than the diff one so you can't drop that one first - so the sliding splined part of the prop is probably essential for removal.
The suggestion wasn't to use a second hand prop just the principle.
There is a bracing bar across the lower part of the chassis forward of the diff flange - so the prop would not drop there - and as normal the gearbox flange is higher than the diff one so you can't drop that one first - so the sliding splined part of the prop is probably essential for removal.
I have an early 2500M with a Rover V8, pictures and details can be found at: http://www.ratty.homecall.co.uk/tvr-mv8-tvr-mv8-de...
Cheers,
Tony.
Cheers,
Tony.
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