A Few Inquiries about the M Series
Discussion
I am looking into the purchase of an M series TVR. I've loved the brand for a long while now, but have yet to get my hands on one. I like to know what the common problems are, if they are major and how to spot them. I'd also like to know what the performance is on a 2500/3000/Taimar, more specifically how they handle.
-Bryan
-Bryan
Bryan,
I thought you would have been flooded with replies to your questions, as there are many people out there who are far more knowledgeable than me on what to look for when considering a purchase of an M series TVR.
As I have owned and run one of these for over 25 years, my opinion is not impartial and I am unashamedly biased towards the M series cars especially the 3000M.
In terms of what to look out for, of course they are all old cars, so anything and everything could be in dubious condition.
The major area is the chassis. You can easily check along the outrigger tubes from off the floor using a good torch, look for corrosion holes especially around the weld areas.
Not so easy to check, is the tubes over the differential, take a look under the parcel shelf, if there is a hatch to access the diff, open it up and take a look at the top of the tubes, and again check all the welded mounting point areas (heat affected zones from welding are more susceptible to corrosion).
Everything else should be checked as if buying any car, noises, excessive play general wear and tear balanced against the cars presented history and mileage.
Check the electrics; if everything works, buy it, it’ll be the first.
Now to the main bit, how do these cars handle? Now don’t tell any one else, but these are the most underrated TVR of all time, if you make sure the suspension and brakes are in tip top condition, they can be pushed along way and return a lot of fun.
Up rate them just slightly and you have a seriously good handling car that is capable of snapping at the heels of its modern day equivalents.
Best of luck with your search.
I thought you would have been flooded with replies to your questions, as there are many people out there who are far more knowledgeable than me on what to look for when considering a purchase of an M series TVR.
As I have owned and run one of these for over 25 years, my opinion is not impartial and I am unashamedly biased towards the M series cars especially the 3000M.
In terms of what to look out for, of course they are all old cars, so anything and everything could be in dubious condition.
The major area is the chassis. You can easily check along the outrigger tubes from off the floor using a good torch, look for corrosion holes especially around the weld areas.
Not so easy to check, is the tubes over the differential, take a look under the parcel shelf, if there is a hatch to access the diff, open it up and take a look at the top of the tubes, and again check all the welded mounting point areas (heat affected zones from welding are more susceptible to corrosion).
Everything else should be checked as if buying any car, noises, excessive play general wear and tear balanced against the cars presented history and mileage.
Check the electrics; if everything works, buy it, it’ll be the first.
Now to the main bit, how do these cars handle? Now don’t tell any one else, but these are the most underrated TVR of all time, if you make sure the suspension and brakes are in tip top condition, they can be pushed along way and return a lot of fun.
Up rate them just slightly and you have a seriously good handling car that is capable of snapping at the heels of its modern day equivalents.
Best of luck with your search.
Some of the "M"s such, as my 1978 M had all black wiring looms with special bio-degradable numbers on the end of the wires so you could tell which was which when they were first put on the car. These cars work just as well as any other TVR but the longer you have one the more annoying the all black wiring loom becomes!
Very high performance road tyres are not available for the standard rims so you either have to change the diameter of the rims or go slowly round corners on track days. Handling is quite well balanced between under and oversteer. Plenty of adjustment on the suspension if you need it. Ride is not bad but harsher than, say, a Lotus Elan of the same period. Brakes are good and with the right pads installed very good for non-ventilated disks.
Very high performance road tyres are not available for the standard rims so you either have to change the diameter of the rims or go slowly round corners on track days. Handling is quite well balanced between under and oversteer. Plenty of adjustment on the suspension if you need it. Ride is not bad but harsher than, say, a Lotus Elan of the same period. Brakes are good and with the right pads installed very good for non-ventilated disks.
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