V8 in place of V6 - tight fit

V8 in place of V6 - tight fit

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valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
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Finding putting V8 into Taimar / 3000M chassis a bit of a tight fit, might have to fabricate exhaust. Any one done this.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
quotequote all
Slow M said:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Roy,

did you manage to get papers on the car?
Will it be track only?

As far as your exhaust question is concerned, You could try Torino or El Camino cast manifolds but for power, make tube headers. Yes, it'll be a tight fit.

B.
Went back to the seller and am satisfied with his story about the car, well not much choice really, either believe him or burn it and loose my outlay.
I may try for an IVA (or is it SVA) test when it's up and running and get an age related plate if that's possible, maybe not as easy these days as it used to be.

Regarding engine and exhausts, I was hoping to make my own from the stainless four branched manifolds that were on the V8, looks like I can shorten the radious on the back pots and squeeze them in, was hoping someone had done this and had some pics. Everything else done, polybushed the suspension and waiting on new brakes, hoping to have it running in a month or two if finances allow.
Waiting for a gearbox for now so as I can find out how far back in the chassis the engine sits, also a problem with the water pump pulley in relation to the cross member that braces the shock absorbers.
May have to cut something out and redesign so as the V8 will fit. Not heard of these problems on other builds in 2500/3000M chassis, so maybe it will be ok when gearbox is lined up.
Also worried that the chassis may not be up to 200lbs ft torque without strengthening.
I will troll the internet for answers.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
quotequote all
I've seen forward manifolds on race TVRs but they look complicated for me to produce, worth a look when the engine is in though. Will the exhaust maifolds go on back to front, i.e. left on right and right on left, to achieve this?

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
quotequote all
Slow M said:
What V8?
B
3.5 Rover from late SD1 with gearbox from same car.

Those exhaust ports in the pictures are about 4 inches higher up than mine are. They are above the chassis rail wheras mine are below the chassis rail. there is plenty of room for the front three pots but the back ones are restricted by the lower (top) rail. I was going to try getting the engine down a little more to clear it but the ground clearance would be down to about three inches and I would need a sump gaurd which would lower it even further.
Maybe with the gearbox fitted I will be able to judge better.

I can weld stainless but am useless at measuring so I do everything by eye. It could turn out into a right dogs breakfast.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
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GTRene said:
nice projects, I like classic TVR's with V8.

What is the difference in size and weight compared to say a 5.0 rover and a LS3...
RV8 weighs less than a Ford Pinto, I think it's about 170 to 200 kg dressed.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Wednesday 14th April 2010
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djc100 said:
The RV8 sits low and quite far back in the M chassis, great for weight distribution and handling but does make the rear port a problem. (lines up with the upper chasssis rail)
My manifold (per side) has 4 short legs into a collector and a single pipes wrapping under the starter etc and a balance pipe towards the rear of the g'box. They are low but not as low as the sump. (use the RR sump which is higher than most SD1s - but holds more oil)
The manifold is probably fairly easy to make as no complex bends etc.

David
Thanks , I might consider moving the engine forward a couple of inches if that would help the problem, depends on the prop length and if the oil filter will clear.
That or lower the engine a bit, must be a way round it with a bit if shuffling and I have the benefit of placing the engine wherever is best for it as everything else will be fitted according to the final engine position.
I supose the starter will be a problem if I lower the engine. Any how, I am going to do it as I have all the bits coming together and I like a challenge.

I'll cut and shut the stainless pipes that came with the engine for now and consider a propper system next year, should be able to make a decent looking if not efficient exhaust for now.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Thursday 15th April 2010
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stainless_steve said:
GTRene said:
nice projects, I like classic TVR's with V8.

What is the difference in size and weight compared to say a 5.0 rover and a LS3...
Both ally so can't be alot in it,5.0 rover in a TVR puts out about 280 true horses,LS3 in same around 400/450.
Mine will be putting out about 190bhp with 200ish lbs ft torque so quite mild really.

The engine and gearbox positions have not been finalised but at the moment it is resting with the front bit of the sump on the bottom crossmember and the back bit of the sump a few inches lower than that. I think the botom crossmember might be the deciding factor on height as I dont want to be chopping the chassis if I can help it.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Friday 16th April 2010
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Thanks for that, very interesting.
Seems that peoples answer to the exhaust problem is to get someone to do it for them.
I'll have a go myself, it cant be that difficult and some of the custom jobs I've seem by experts are not that sparkling when you look closely at them.

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Friday 16th April 2010
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Slow M said:
OOOh luverly, if only I could afford that lot.
I have stainless tubular manifolds going into a collect piece and a full stainless Rover system from there on so was hoping to modify what I have by cutting and welding. Looking at where my engine will sit,the only problem will be the two rearmost ports and that may not be a problem. I'll have to wait untill the gearbox arrives and then I can dry fit everything to the chassis. Lucky I have a bare chassis which will make things easier. Looking forward to working on the first problem rolleyes

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Saturday 1st May 2010
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Getting on with it now but would like to know the size of the grease nipples on the rear driveshaft universal joints please. Mine are blocked and no grease getting into joints.
Best to buy new ones I think so if any one can help with the size and thread size I would be gratefull.

btw it's a Taimar

Thanks.

Edited by valvesetter on Saturday 1st May 20:19

valvesetter

Original Poster:

32 posts

192 months

Sunday 23rd May 2010
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Just taken delivery of my gearbox, it's a rover SD1 Vitess box in excellent order complete with flywheel and clutch. Problem is that it is only 27 inches long and if I use the prop that I have then the back of the engine will be up against the top crossmember on the chassis and also it wont drop in between the rails. I'll have to move the engine forward and alter the prop or try and get the engine lower in the chassis to clear the top rails.
Back to the drawing board.