IanH's 955hp V10 Audi RS6 - Another Car Diary!
Discussion
Burwood said:
Ian, you have some Vbox figures don't you?
I've not got a V-Box but a similar 10hz GPS based timing system with separate piece of software and a 10hz GPS puck (same speed as V-Box) and I've only got these figures from when it was 735hp, once it was 900+ it all felt a bit irrelevant TBH 
-1/4 mile run with the traction left on by mistake so poor 0-60mph but great acceleration from 100-200kph.
The only 1 mile run I've recorded, great start but the wind wasn't playing and was right in my face so a whole second slower at 100-200kph than the run above which was done on a fairly still day.
Its a QStarz BT-Q818XT 10hz GPS puck (uses Bluetooth so can be left on the roof etc) and a really old version of the RaceChrono software - The newer Android version doesn't have performance tests as it's more of a laptimer now hence the older Symbian phone to run it which is a massive shame as the functionality and customisations allowed are amazing - you can set your own Xmph to XXXmph limits, your own distance times etc completely as you want, not via a preset setup!
Edited by IanH755 on Sunday 15th July 21:18
Yeap, from here - http://racechrono.com/legacy
Just back at Unit20 having a post rebuild inspection before I head down to MRC on Wednesday and after a 60 milemotorway run I got this MPG reading. Not bad for 900hp although I realise it's an ECU thing with my non-OEM injectors.
although I realise it's an ECU thing with my non-OEM injectors. - *EDIT** - Unit20 gave it a full health check and gave it a thumbs up so all's good for Wednesday now!
Edited by IanH755 on Monday 16th July 23:11
So back from MRC with a full bill of health and just over 870hp which wasn't helped by the KWE I/C's poor thermal abilities on a Dyno. We made an extra 30ps (25hp) from the first run just by letting the car cooldown so that the ambient temps were 20'c rather than 50'c when it arrived which just shows how poor theSo back from MRC with a full bill of health and just over 870hp which wasn't helped by the KWE I/C's poor thermal abilities on a Dyno. We made an extra 30ps (25hp) from the first run just by letting the car cooldown so that the ambient temps were 20'c rather than 50'c when it arrived which just shows how poor they are in static air.
Doug@MRC is really trying to convince me to get the Marston I/C's for their much better flow (my KWE's are slightly laggier in comparison too) and better thermals etc yet I'm still struggling with the £3200+ price however Doug mentioned that Christer (RS246 Member), who has an almost identical spec to mine but with Marstons, made over 70hp more than my current figure, had more torque, less lag, more revs (7k vs 6.5k) and better intake temps all from them. I'm next back in the UK around January so I may eventually bite the built and get a set (through gritted teeth admittedly).
Doug@MRC is really trying to convince me to get the Marston I/C's for their much better flow (my KWE's are slightly laggier in comparison too) and better thermals etc yet I'm still struggling with the £3200+ price however Doug mentioned that Christer (RS246 Member), who has an almost identical spec to mine but with Marstons, made over 70hp more than my current figure, had more torque, less lag, more revs (7k vs 6.5k) and better intake temps all from them. I'm next back in the UK around January so I may eventually bite the built and get a set (through gritted teeth admittedly).
Edited by IanH755 on Wednesday 18th July 13:48
The annoying thing is I'd buy them in a heartbeat if they were closer to what I considered a more "reasonable" price, because they are awesome, but as a tight semi-Northerner it just makes my skin itch paying that much - which is again ridiculous when you consider what I've already spent
The two IC's fit just in front of each front wheel with an auxiliary coolant radiator sat behind them, like this -
The main cost is the two new larger cores which are absolutely fantastic. These are made by an aerospace company called HS Marstons and cost around £2200. Then Radtek (the company actually selling the IC's) take these cores and your old IC's, chop the ends off your old IC's and modify them to fit the new larger cores.
How much actual "work" is carried out by Radtek during the modification is unknown to me but, as they add an additional £1000 to the price of the cores, I'm guessing it must be extensive.
The main cost is the two new larger cores which are absolutely fantastic. These are made by an aerospace company called HS Marstons and cost around £2200. Then Radtek (the company actually selling the IC's) take these cores and your old IC's, chop the ends off your old IC's and modify them to fit the new larger cores.
How much actual "work" is carried out by Radtek during the modification is unknown to me but, as they add an additional £1000 to the price of the cores, I'm guessing it must be extensive.
Uniconst said:
So my question is :- was it really worth it?
Yes and No really - Economically it makes no sense what so ever as a Stage 2 map like yours is the perfect blend of power vs cost, but as with all my "fast" cars I've never been able to stick to whats best vs the cost and if I'm not pushing the limits I get bored quickly. For example, one of my previous cars was a RB26 engine from a R33GTR swapped into my R34 GTT Skyline and it was the first ever to be done in the UK which again took excess time and money pushing the performance vs cost well out. However, while I'm lucky enough to be in a position where the economic limits aren't too much of an issue I'll keep pushing and pushing until my needs change, that's just who I am.Regarding the performance, the 130ps and 30nm difference you mentioned are peak figures, however if you look at the gap throughout the rev range thats where the difference becomes apparent. For example both the Stage 2 and my 900+ car figures are are fairly close until 5000rpm, which is where the Stage 2's OEM turbos run out of steam and power levels off and torque rapidly drops. With mine however the power keeps climbing and torque is able to hold steady until near redline, due to the bigger turbos, so at 6250rpm mine has 170ps and 200nm more than a Stage 2, which is a huge amount over a Stage 2 car, which is already ridiculously quick.
How that "feels" when driving is, to me, like this - remember that first difference you felt jumping into your stage 2 car after being OEM, well 900+ feels like that same jump of "Holy Poop" all over again above a Stage 2 map and for me, that feeling justifies the cost, but that's just me and I can't say it'd be the same for anyone else.
(edited for awful spelling/grammar)
Edited by IanH755 on Saturday 4th August 19:59
Carbon Cleaning - Originally posted after the 900hp conversion and at 96K miles on the engine but long story short, the TFSI engine doesn't really carbon up enough to make a noticeable difference unless the car has only ever been drivemn around town without ever using full throttle
IanH755 said:
Whilst it was MRC being tuned I also took the opportunity to have a bunch of other small jobs sorted.
Engine Carbon Clean- whilst I know that the TFSI engine suffers much less from carbon fouling than our poor B7 brethren, as mine had done 96k miles and never been touched I thought it'd be interesting to see how bad it was and get it cleaned. Turns out that there was some carbon there but nowhere near the levels that the B7 boys get so even if you're approaching 100k miles it's not a necessity to get it cleaned, however I still got it cleaned off anyway - Hmmmmm Shiney!!!!
Engine Carbon Clean- whilst I know that the TFSI engine suffers much less from carbon fouling than our poor B7 brethren, as mine had done 96k miles and never been touched I thought it'd be interesting to see how bad it was and get it cleaned. Turns out that there was some carbon there but nowhere near the levels that the B7 boys get so even if you're approaching 100k miles it's not a necessity to get it cleaned, however I still got it cleaned off anyway - Hmmmmm Shiney!!!!
Ah, long time no see!
Well I'm back in the UK for 3 weeks and I hate to sit around bored so I'm off to Scotland to give a modified NC500 route a 3 day blast next week, rather than having the car sat in garage doing suspension - I swear I'm getting it done at "some point"
As there's no V-power/Tesco 99 etc further north than Tain I'm going to base myself in Inverness (for the V-power) and concentrate on crossing over and driving up the West side of the route such as Ullapool, Applecross and upto Kylesku Bridge etc rather than the East side heading on the A9 upto Wick. I'll aim for a bit of Fort William and Lock Ness too although, having lived 1hr away from Inverness for 2 years, spotting the monster isn't high on my priorities!
Car maintenance wise I've got the following niggles to sort -
PS - Cars still fast as balls!
Well I'm back in the UK for 3 weeks and I hate to sit around bored so I'm off to Scotland to give a modified NC500 route a 3 day blast next week, rather than having the car sat in garage doing suspension - I swear I'm getting it done at "some point"
As there's no V-power/Tesco 99 etc further north than Tain I'm going to base myself in Inverness (for the V-power) and concentrate on crossing over and driving up the West side of the route such as Ullapool, Applecross and upto Kylesku Bridge etc rather than the East side heading on the A9 upto Wick. I'll aim for a bit of Fort William and Lock Ness too although, having lived 1hr away from Inverness for 2 years, spotting the monster isn't high on my priorities!
Car maintenance wise I've got the following niggles to sort -
- The cheap eBay CF aftermarket "gearshift paddle extenders" I use are now coming loose after 3+ years so I've already got a replacement set of silver paddles which match the silver OEM paddles better. The OEM ones are a bit small and I prefer the slightly larger paddles as they fit my hand perfectly when I'm blitzing through the gears.
- Rear Bootlid water leak - Find where it's getting in and stop it. I've had to take both rear boot-lights out to give the water a place to drain (got about 250ml out!).
- Water/Meth "windscreen wash" bottle - low level sensor constantly says low level and needs replacing, however it's part of the bottle so the whole thing needs replacing and, as mine is a water/meth container with additional hoses added, it's not a simple task. I may pass that on with the suspension refresh.
- New Tyres - No-one in the UK can get Michelin PS4S tyres in 275/35-R20 102Y XL - they say they can then Michelin tell them Nope when they try and order any. My MPSS have another year in them but I have a slow leak on the rear offside (5psi over 2 months) and the batteries in the TPMS sensors will need changing soon too (originals are 10 years old).
PS - Cars still fast as balls!
Yoof said:
Tyre Leader always seem to come up with the goods for me: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/michelin/pi...
smifffymoto said:
Have you tried Delticom for tyres.The UK site is MyTyres and they have stock.It’s all shipped from Germany anyway.
I use the French site and haven’t been let down(yet).
I've tried 4 different companies, 2 even took money and then refunded me a few days later when they couldn't actually get any from Michelin!I use the French site and haven’t been let down(yet).
I'll give it a look but it's only when it rains so far.
Just to add to my "fun" the right rear brake disc heatshield detached itself during a "spirited drive" last night and made an awful racket as it rubs the disc. Having had this same thing happen on the left side during a previous trackday I knew the fix was simple, cut it off, so spent the day so far doing that, yay!
Once the rear discs get low enough to need replacing I'll refit new heatshields at that time but they can wait until then.
Just to add to my "fun" the right rear brake disc heatshield detached itself during a "spirited drive" last night and made an awful racket as it rubs the disc. Having had this same thing happen on the left side during a previous trackday I knew the fix was simple, cut it off, so spent the day so far doing that, yay!
Once the rear discs get low enough to need replacing I'll refit new heatshields at that time but they can wait until then.
MattMacc123 said:
Absolutely cracking car! I know you don't buy these cars for economy, but out of curiosity, what kind of MPG does an animal like that return?
All calculated as fuel used vs distance driven rather than OBD readings - About 25-28mpg doing 60-ish on the motorway.
About 19mpg driving combined town/mway.
About 13mpg driving just around town.
About 3-5mpg on the track - difficult to tell TBH
All those figures are with liberal doses of full throttle too.
Yeah.........................about Scotland 
Looks like I popped the gearbox input driveshaft as the drive from engine to gearbox is now physically disconnected even though both work fine separately (engine works fine, GB works fine without any noises etc, there's just no drive now). I was overtaking a van on a nice bit of A-Road from 40mph with full throttle inc kick down and got 1-2 secs of acceleration in 2nd, then a loud clunk, then no drive at all, like I'd put the clutch in on manual GB. It's happened to another 900+ car with the same GB so it's a known weakspot but there's now companies who make uprated shafts who weren't available 3 years ago when I had the box built so I'll be going down that route.
I dropped it off with Grizz @ Unit20 this morning after 23hrs getting the AA to recover me from Northern Scotland!
Looks like I popped the gearbox input driveshaft as the drive from engine to gearbox is now physically disconnected even though both work fine separately (engine works fine, GB works fine without any noises etc, there's just no drive now). I was overtaking a van on a nice bit of A-Road from 40mph with full throttle inc kick down and got 1-2 secs of acceleration in 2nd, then a loud clunk, then no drive at all, like I'd put the clutch in on manual GB. It's happened to another 900+ car with the same GB so it's a known weakspot but there's now companies who make uprated shafts who weren't available 3 years ago when I had the box built so I'll be going down that route.
I dropped it off with Grizz @ Unit20 this morning after 23hrs getting the AA to recover me from Northern Scotland!
Dr G said:
Oh no, what a shame!
Can there be any bad luck left? I think you've used it all up.
TBF Dr G, with the drive-train pushing 800lbs/ft+ matched to grippy tyres through a good AWD system, something will always have to give eventually, so I'm not massively surprised that something sheared but it does let me know what the weak spot is.Can there be any bad luck left? I think you've used it all up.
It's been a while hasn't it
The cars waiting for me back in the UK whilst I'm still "stuck" in Saudi whilst all this COVID-19 stuff is going on. I was supposed to get back in the UK in March to pick it up but now it looks like it may be as late as December before I can get back to the UK.
As for the car, the gearbox input shaft was replaced and the clutch packs refreshed, all the DRC suspension struts and hydraulic pipes have been replaced, it's had new front pads & rears discs/pads, newer face-lift style rear light clusters and then the usual servicing bits inc new diff/engine/brake oils etc.
If it wasn't for the COVID I'd have updated this thread 3 months ago but when I eventually get back I'll update the thread again. I'm also thinking about (but not to hard) swapping the current KWE intercoolers out for the new Wagners versions which are much bigger and cool better but aren't as ridiculously expensive as the Radtek versions are despite coming with new a new central mount radiator to replace the two small side mount I/C's which fit behind the Intercoolers,
However I'm not using the car anywhere near enough so I'm going through the "do I sell or not" phase so does spending even more cash make sense etc. My feeling is no but I'm stupid so I'll probably end up doing it anyway, I'm just waiting for the results from another UK guy with a spec similar to mine who is getting the Wagners fitted before I make a decision.
The cars waiting for me back in the UK whilst I'm still "stuck" in Saudi whilst all this COVID-19 stuff is going on. I was supposed to get back in the UK in March to pick it up but now it looks like it may be as late as December before I can get back to the UK.
As for the car, the gearbox input shaft was replaced and the clutch packs refreshed, all the DRC suspension struts and hydraulic pipes have been replaced, it's had new front pads & rears discs/pads, newer face-lift style rear light clusters and then the usual servicing bits inc new diff/engine/brake oils etc.
If it wasn't for the COVID I'd have updated this thread 3 months ago but when I eventually get back I'll update the thread again. I'm also thinking about (but not to hard) swapping the current KWE intercoolers out for the new Wagners versions which are much bigger and cool better but aren't as ridiculously expensive as the Radtek versions are despite coming with new a new central mount radiator to replace the two small side mount I/C's which fit behind the Intercoolers,
However I'm not using the car anywhere near enough so I'm going through the "do I sell or not" phase so does spending even more cash make sense etc. My feeling is no but I'm stupid so I'll probably end up doing it anyway, I'm just waiting for the results from another UK guy with a spec similar to mine who is getting the Wagners fitted before I make a decision.
m.barnes said:
Hi Ian.
Just came across a few posts pointing me to you. Did you buy RB racing brake discs at some point? Just wondering how you found them?
I see from your posts you’ve quoted ap racing discs a few times and no mention of RB racing discs so maybe wrong but just wondered.
Thanks!
Hi there, Just came across a few posts pointing me to you. Did you buy RB racing brake discs at some point? Just wondering how you found them?
I see from your posts you’ve quoted ap racing discs a few times and no mention of RB racing discs so maybe wrong but just wondered.
Thanks!
I haven't bought or used RB discs, I've only used OEM and AP Racing so I can't give you any advice about them, sorry.
Don1 said:
What was the cause of the scoring in the end?
It was a damaged ring in the end, possibly detonation but TBF we were pushing 900hp on a stock engine which had 100k miles on it when it failed and had been running 730hp+ on several trackdays too which won't have helped either, so not entirely unexpected in the the end.Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff