147 GTA progress thread (July 2013 to present)
Discussion
Tmrtom said:
Another of my favourite cars on pistonheads! Guessing you're keeping it then? I think I'd struggle to ever sell a car like that, even if it wasn't used all that much.
Thanks.It's still for sale but I don't think now is the right time to find a buyer... Fortunately I'm not under any pressure to sell it.
Bright Halo said:
Great work again.
Looking very nice after the polish.
Yup, really pleased with it. Just need to clean the rest of it...Looking very nice after the polish.
This has been annoying me slightly, my Dad more so;
IMG_4243 by Chris, on Flickr
Its never fitted properly and was held down with some sticky-ish glue. But that hasn't' held in the sun, causing it to lift.
However, the root problem was that the fixing screw went into a hole in the base of the switch and that had broken. A previous Owner / Numpty had overtightened the screw, breaking the bracket. My Dad ha jerry-rigged a repair;
IMG_4244 by Chris, on Flickr
But it never really fitted properly.
Solution? New switch gear. Which, again, my Dad refurbed using some rubberised 3M paint I found a while back after it was mentioned on the SportsMaser forum;
IMG_4247 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4248 by Chris, on Flickr
Moving on, here is a particularly s
t photo of the standard fuse box/obd port cover.
IMG_4250-2 by Chris, on Flickr
I found 3 later model covers (facelift, non GTA) for sale that include a neat little cubby hole and took a chance that they were the same colour and shape as the original. It fitted;
IMG_4253 by Chris, on Flickr
Really pleased with that little mod....
IMG_4243 by Chris, on FlickrIts never fitted properly and was held down with some sticky-ish glue. But that hasn't' held in the sun, causing it to lift.
However, the root problem was that the fixing screw went into a hole in the base of the switch and that had broken. A previous Owner / Numpty had overtightened the screw, breaking the bracket. My Dad ha jerry-rigged a repair;
IMG_4244 by Chris, on FlickrBut it never really fitted properly.
Solution? New switch gear. Which, again, my Dad refurbed using some rubberised 3M paint I found a while back after it was mentioned on the SportsMaser forum;
IMG_4247 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4248 by Chris, on FlickrMoving on, here is a particularly s
t photo of the standard fuse box/obd port cover.IMG_4250-2 by Chris, on FlickrI found 3 later model covers (facelift, non GTA) for sale that include a neat little cubby hole and took a chance that they were the same colour and shape as the original. It fitted;
IMG_4253 by Chris, on FlickrReally pleased with that little mod....
More new bits. This time the stiffening plates that are bolted to the underside of the car between the subframe and the front section of the floor.
The old parts are in relatively good shape, having been cleaned up and repainted but, well, the replacements are brand new...
IMG_4484 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4482 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4480 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4472 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4477 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4478 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4479 by Chris, on Flickr
(New fastenings too...)
The old parts are in relatively good shape, having been cleaned up and repainted but, well, the replacements are brand new...
IMG_4484 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4482 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4480 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4472 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4477 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4478 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4479 by Chris, on Flickr(New fastenings too...)
Edited by Zombie on Saturday 10th October 23:04
Moving on, after working on the rear brakes of my daily drive;
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My Dad's attention became focused on the GTA's rear brakes, which while they work fine, are looking a little scabby;
IMG_4475 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4473 by Chris, on Flickr
(The front callipers are virtually like new, having been upgraded to the larger 330mm discs and callipers)
Problem is, the new Callipers just came, as expected, with a passivate coating rather than being painted red like the standard callipers.
However, we have a set of 4 pot Mito callipers bought for another project which are the right colour. My Dad took these down to a local bodyshop and they were able to identify a RAL colour that closely matches the OEM colour, which he had mixed up in a rattle can;
IMG_4435 by Chris, on Flickr
In addition to the callipers the hangers also need refurishing. Rather than mess about with the ones fitted to the car, which would have meant it being up on axle stands for a while, my Dad chose to refurbish a spare set, which were in better condition than the ones on the car to begin with;
Etch primed;
IMG_4436 by Chris, on Flickr
Under coat;
IMG_4443 by Chris, on Flickr
Colour match compared with the Mito callipers is good;
IMG_4440 by Chris, on Flickr
Painted, laqured and rebuilt with other new bits and bobs - slider pins etc
IMG_4504 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4506 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4507 by Chris, on Flickr
There's a new set of genuine Alfa discs and pads to match but this is as far as we're going togo with it. The car is now off the road for the winter, so there's no point fitting them as they could seize through a lack of use in the meanwhile.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My Dad's attention became focused on the GTA's rear brakes, which while they work fine, are looking a little scabby;
IMG_4475 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4473 by Chris, on Flickr(The front callipers are virtually like new, having been upgraded to the larger 330mm discs and callipers)
Problem is, the new Callipers just came, as expected, with a passivate coating rather than being painted red like the standard callipers.
However, we have a set of 4 pot Mito callipers bought for another project which are the right colour. My Dad took these down to a local bodyshop and they were able to identify a RAL colour that closely matches the OEM colour, which he had mixed up in a rattle can;
IMG_4435 by Chris, on FlickrIn addition to the callipers the hangers also need refurishing. Rather than mess about with the ones fitted to the car, which would have meant it being up on axle stands for a while, my Dad chose to refurbish a spare set, which were in better condition than the ones on the car to begin with;
Etch primed;
IMG_4436 by Chris, on FlickrUnder coat;
IMG_4443 by Chris, on FlickrColour match compared with the Mito callipers is good;
IMG_4440 by Chris, on FlickrPainted, laqured and rebuilt with other new bits and bobs - slider pins etc
IMG_4504 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4506 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4507 by Chris, on FlickrThere's a new set of genuine Alfa discs and pads to match but this is as far as we're going togo with it. The car is now off the road for the winter, so there's no point fitting them as they could seize through a lack of use in the meanwhile.
rxe said:
Did you find the original 16mm across flat bolts for the plates? I just bunged in 17 mm AF ones when I did mine!
I think they're 17mm but the same grade of bolt.ETA, there's some useful information about this here;
https://thomsonrail.com/metric-nuts-and-bolts/
Edited by Zombie on Saturday 10th October 23:57
Thread update. I don't have anything to report on the GTA per se as it's been sat in my car port over the winter. I've started it occasionally and kept it clean, but that's about it.
However, anyone who knows about GTA's (147 / 156 / GT 3.2) knows that the engine ECU can fail. Finding a replacement is not easy, nor cheap. I was fortunate in that when the original ECU failed a few years ago, I had a replacement in the form of a 156 GTA Selespeed ECU that I acquired in 2006 and had sat on a shelf since then.
Despite a well known specialist saying that a 156 ECU will not work with a 147, referencing "different internal strategies", Autolusso were able to both flash the ECU to work with my 147 and virginise it. (Thank you Ned!).
Whilst I am confident that the ECU will now last the remainder of the car's life, I was left with a broken ECU and people have been able to repair them.
I didn't fancy spending £250+ on a repair that may or may not work though, so I decided to have a crack at it myself.
IMG_1190 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1192 by Chris, on Flickr
I carefully pried the back off using a sharp knife to cut through the silicone sealant and some pry tools for taking phones apart;
IMG_1194 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1196 by Chris, on Flickr
The back eventually "fell" off revealing the ECU internals. The chip off to the side is apparently a capacitor which lives on the area of the circuit board that I've circled. I didn't find it like this, but it was loose.
And this is the standard problem. When it does loose adhesion (it's glued on) it creates a problem where the (fly-by-wire) throttle body chatters constantly and in time with the key code (immobiliser) light. And whilst the car will crank, it will not start.
There is a get you home trick though - if you disconnect the throttle body it will start and idle. The engine has more than enough torque at idle to keep the car moving.
So much so that when I first start it I can drive it out of the culdesac and village I live in without touching the throttle once - It'll do close to 30mph with a fast idle in 6th. This is just one of those small things that I love about it. It also helps as it does have a noisy exhaust on it but no-one can complain, in my mind at least as I drive it away and into the village on idle...
Anyway, back to the ECU;
IMG_1197 by Chris, on Flickr
Which is definitely broken. A replacement chip is cheap enough, I ordered a bunch from RS, the postage cost more than the chips.
The accepted method of repairing the ECU is to solder the chip to the board where is was previously glued on. I lack both the equipment and the expertise to do this, which is why people charge 250 quid to repair them, I guess.
Before I had taken it apart I was aware of all of this and I had decided to try and re-fix the cheap using conductive glue, which I think I found on eBay for about £10.
IMG_1198 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1201 by Chris, on Flickr
As you might expect, I wasn't confident this would work but I tried it on the car and, yup. It didn't. This was characterised by the aforementioned chattering from the throttle body and flashing dashboard lights.
But, rather than give up, I had a chat about it with my Dad (who did a degree in electronics, some time ago) and we elected to take it to a TV repair guy that is local to us.
Whilst I had just taken the ECU to him for a cursory look after giving it to him, he appeared 10mins later and said he had gone ahead and soldered it on.
For a Fiver.
(I paid him more than that)
IMG_1303 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1303 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1302 by Chris, on Flickr
We tried it on the car with a little more optimism but with a realistic expectation it wouldn't work. But, it appears that it is actually repaired. The throttle body no longer chatters nor do the lights flash. It was, however complaining about the immobiliser.
I assume that this is because whilst it is the original ECU, the car is coded to the replacement. To test it properly, I'd need to virginise it and fit it. I'd also have to do the same to existing ECU if I wanted to put that back on the car rather than keep the repaired ECU. Which is not something I'm willing to risk.
I wasn't content with this though, so I've bought a KESS rip off and I'm in the process of resurrecting an old lap top to run it. I also have a similar ECU from a twin spark 147 to test it on.
However, anyone who knows about GTA's (147 / 156 / GT 3.2) knows that the engine ECU can fail. Finding a replacement is not easy, nor cheap. I was fortunate in that when the original ECU failed a few years ago, I had a replacement in the form of a 156 GTA Selespeed ECU that I acquired in 2006 and had sat on a shelf since then.
Despite a well known specialist saying that a 156 ECU will not work with a 147, referencing "different internal strategies", Autolusso were able to both flash the ECU to work with my 147 and virginise it. (Thank you Ned!).
Whilst I am confident that the ECU will now last the remainder of the car's life, I was left with a broken ECU and people have been able to repair them.
I didn't fancy spending £250+ on a repair that may or may not work though, so I decided to have a crack at it myself.
IMG_1190 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1192 by Chris, on FlickrI carefully pried the back off using a sharp knife to cut through the silicone sealant and some pry tools for taking phones apart;
IMG_1194 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1196 by Chris, on FlickrThe back eventually "fell" off revealing the ECU internals. The chip off to the side is apparently a capacitor which lives on the area of the circuit board that I've circled. I didn't find it like this, but it was loose.
And this is the standard problem. When it does loose adhesion (it's glued on) it creates a problem where the (fly-by-wire) throttle body chatters constantly and in time with the key code (immobiliser) light. And whilst the car will crank, it will not start.
There is a get you home trick though - if you disconnect the throttle body it will start and idle. The engine has more than enough torque at idle to keep the car moving.
So much so that when I first start it I can drive it out of the culdesac and village I live in without touching the throttle once - It'll do close to 30mph with a fast idle in 6th. This is just one of those small things that I love about it. It also helps as it does have a noisy exhaust on it but no-one can complain, in my mind at least as I drive it away and into the village on idle...
Anyway, back to the ECU;
IMG_1197 by Chris, on FlickrWhich is definitely broken. A replacement chip is cheap enough, I ordered a bunch from RS, the postage cost more than the chips.
The accepted method of repairing the ECU is to solder the chip to the board where is was previously glued on. I lack both the equipment and the expertise to do this, which is why people charge 250 quid to repair them, I guess.
Before I had taken it apart I was aware of all of this and I had decided to try and re-fix the cheap using conductive glue, which I think I found on eBay for about £10.
IMG_1198 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1201 by Chris, on FlickrAs you might expect, I wasn't confident this would work but I tried it on the car and, yup. It didn't. This was characterised by the aforementioned chattering from the throttle body and flashing dashboard lights.
But, rather than give up, I had a chat about it with my Dad (who did a degree in electronics, some time ago) and we elected to take it to a TV repair guy that is local to us.
Whilst I had just taken the ECU to him for a cursory look after giving it to him, he appeared 10mins later and said he had gone ahead and soldered it on.
For a Fiver.
(I paid him more than that)IMG_1303 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1303 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1302 by Chris, on FlickrWe tried it on the car with a little more optimism but with a realistic expectation it wouldn't work. But, it appears that it is actually repaired. The throttle body no longer chatters nor do the lights flash. It was, however complaining about the immobiliser.
I assume that this is because whilst it is the original ECU, the car is coded to the replacement. To test it properly, I'd need to virginise it and fit it. I'd also have to do the same to existing ECU if I wanted to put that back on the car rather than keep the repaired ECU. Which is not something I'm willing to risk.
I wasn't content with this though, so I've bought a KESS rip off and I'm in the process of resurrecting an old lap top to run it. I also have a similar ECU from a twin spark 147 to test it on.
Looks like I owe an update...
After the ECU looked like it had been repaired, I bought some knock-off hardware that can be used to remap / viginise ECUs and set about learning how to use it on another spare ECU from a 147 2.0ts;
I was able to pull the raw data from the ecu without any issues;
But that's about it. I was working with an ancient laptop (software isn't compatible with Mac) that is glacier like in it's processing power and I kind of put it to one side. Where it has remained.
I had the opportunity to try some spacers on it. 15mm IIRC. I've seen a number of people on the social medias posting about this, usually in conjunction with some Maxton splitters and skirts.
Before;
(Yes, I used longer wheel bolts)
I wasn't convinced in terms of the way it looked. It was OK from the front but the back end looked odd. With such a short rear overhang, the rear tyres looked narrower, probably because more of the tyre was visible.
I know the drivers in the 750 Motor Club Alfa Romeo Championship use spacers but this is conjunction with shortened, re-valved dampers as well as the 15" wheels dictated by the class rules. TBH, I didn't notice much in the way of any handling benefit.
What I did notice was that the wheels, which are wider than standard - 8" rather than 7.5" were catching the rear arches though, so I removed the spacers after the test.
Apart from some prep work, this is all I've done with it up to August this year.
However we did have a growing list of jobs to do which I'll discuss in my next post.
After the ECU looked like it had been repaired, I bought some knock-off hardware that can be used to remap / viginise ECUs and set about learning how to use it on another spare ECU from a 147 2.0ts;
I was able to pull the raw data from the ecu without any issues;
But that's about it. I was working with an ancient laptop (software isn't compatible with Mac) that is glacier like in it's processing power and I kind of put it to one side. Where it has remained.
I had the opportunity to try some spacers on it. 15mm IIRC. I've seen a number of people on the social medias posting about this, usually in conjunction with some Maxton splitters and skirts.
Before;
(Yes, I used longer wheel bolts)
I wasn't convinced in terms of the way it looked. It was OK from the front but the back end looked odd. With such a short rear overhang, the rear tyres looked narrower, probably because more of the tyre was visible.
I know the drivers in the 750 Motor Club Alfa Romeo Championship use spacers but this is conjunction with shortened, re-valved dampers as well as the 15" wheels dictated by the class rules. TBH, I didn't notice much in the way of any handling benefit.
What I did notice was that the wheels, which are wider than standard - 8" rather than 7.5" were catching the rear arches though, so I removed the spacers after the test.
Apart from some prep work, this is all I've done with it up to August this year.
However we did have a growing list of jobs to do which I'll discuss in my next post.
1st Job on the list, yes I made an actual list)...
Rear brake calipers...
The condition of the (Black Diamond) braided hoses was disappointing. They were a right pita to remove from the caliper. They're not that old and I've not used the car in the wet / winter for the last 6 years.
I plan on replacing all 4 of them at some point in the future.
To recap, these are brand new callipers that have been painstakingly painted in as close to the correct red as could be found (by my Dad) earlier in the year;
The main interior light is shared with the Giulietta, but it was revised to include some red led night lighting. The additional lights need an extra additional power source, but this is prewired in all the cars we've done this on - facelift 156, my 147 and a GT. Albeit it does require the connector snipping off and a replacement soldering back on. This came with the light as to be expected of an electrical part sourced from a breaker;
Rear brake calipers...
The condition of the (Black Diamond) braided hoses was disappointing. They were a right pita to remove from the caliper. They're not that old and I've not used the car in the wet / winter for the last 6 years.
I plan on replacing all 4 of them at some point in the future.
To recap, these are brand new callipers that have been painstakingly painted in as close to the correct red as could be found (by my Dad) earlier in the year;
The main interior light is shared with the Giulietta, but it was revised to include some red led night lighting. The additional lights need an extra additional power source, but this is prewired in all the cars we've done this on - facelift 156, my 147 and a GT. Albeit it does require the connector snipping off and a replacement soldering back on. This came with the light as to be expected of an electrical part sourced from a breaker;
Next job.
The front exhaust pipes on it were pattern replacements, bout in a hurry a while ago. One of them started leaking so we decided that it was worth replacing both with some decent quality stainless replacements. I did consider equal length pipes - been there, and they're in the shed with a hole worn though the lowest hanging section because it ground out on the road, frequently.
I also looked at, again, removing the CF3 manifolds and replacing them with CF2's with matching front pipes but it's a right faff to do, practically engine out, technically illegal and may prove to be a problem in the future if MOT testing regs are tightened on this aspect.
]
Front Bumper removed for the ext few jobs;
The first of which was to replace the wing / bumper supports. They bottom of them are prone to corrosion as the bumper and the wheel arch liner are attached to them at the base, dirt and moisture collects there and eventually nothing is left.
The ones on the car were is (relatively) good condition. My Dad had repaired them using fibreglass in the past so they were effectively rust proofed;
But, an online retailer had some brand new ones (genuine parts) for sale at a reasonable price;
Primed;
Painted body colour and clear coated;
I cleaned up the mounting points after removing the original supports;
Part in situ - the power steering rad / engine oil cooler radiators are also mounted to them;
Shiny bit fitted (behind the oil cooler);
The front exhaust pipes on it were pattern replacements, bout in a hurry a while ago. One of them started leaking so we decided that it was worth replacing both with some decent quality stainless replacements. I did consider equal length pipes - been there, and they're in the shed with a hole worn though the lowest hanging section because it ground out on the road, frequently.
I also looked at, again, removing the CF3 manifolds and replacing them with CF2's with matching front pipes but it's a right faff to do, practically engine out, technically illegal and may prove to be a problem in the future if MOT testing regs are tightened on this aspect.
]
Front Bumper removed for the ext few jobs;
The first of which was to replace the wing / bumper supports. They bottom of them are prone to corrosion as the bumper and the wheel arch liner are attached to them at the base, dirt and moisture collects there and eventually nothing is left.
The ones on the car were is (relatively) good condition. My Dad had repaired them using fibreglass in the past so they were effectively rust proofed;
But, an online retailer had some brand new ones (genuine parts) for sale at a reasonable price;
Primed;
Painted body colour and clear coated;
I cleaned up the mounting points after removing the original supports;
Part in situ - the power steering rad / engine oil cooler radiators are also mounted to them;
Shiny bit fitted (behind the oil cooler);
Edited by Zombie on Monday 27th September 22:38
Next job.
Air Con radiator / condensor.
After having the air con regassed last year, it slowly stopped working. Like most, if not all cars, the system has a pressure sensor, so if it's not seeing pressure in the system it won't work. It's easy to test for this as you just hit the air con button and listen for the loud click of the magnetic clutch on the air con compressor engaging.
For the record, last time I had it re-gassed I explained that it had leaked away. They vacuum tested it, it held up. But...
With the bumper off it's relatively easy to remove:
We checked it for leaks under a UV light;
For those that don't know, the air con coolant has 3 components, refrigerant, oil to lubricate the pump and a green UV dye, which, obviously fluoresces under such light.
I don't know if the torch I was using is the right wavelength to see this, but the rad did appear to show some signs of this. The problem is, the rad itself was also corroded and the aluminium oxide was also florescent under my light:
As a test, this was inconclusive.
We checked the rest of the system for the UV dye seeping out but there was no evidence of this. I think, if the leak is still there, it is so slight that whilst the gas can leak out, the dye which is suspended in the lubricating oil, may not.
Which is really frustrating. I hope it's fixed - new rad in place;
But I am not convinced. It's been over a month since it was re-gassed and I think the air con isn't as good as it was but the pump is still engaging.
Air Con radiator / condensor.
After having the air con regassed last year, it slowly stopped working. Like most, if not all cars, the system has a pressure sensor, so if it's not seeing pressure in the system it won't work. It's easy to test for this as you just hit the air con button and listen for the loud click of the magnetic clutch on the air con compressor engaging.
For the record, last time I had it re-gassed I explained that it had leaked away. They vacuum tested it, it held up. But...
With the bumper off it's relatively easy to remove:
We checked it for leaks under a UV light;
For those that don't know, the air con coolant has 3 components, refrigerant, oil to lubricate the pump and a green UV dye, which, obviously fluoresces under such light.
I don't know if the torch I was using is the right wavelength to see this, but the rad did appear to show some signs of this. The problem is, the rad itself was also corroded and the aluminium oxide was also florescent under my light:
As a test, this was inconclusive.
We checked the rest of the system for the UV dye seeping out but there was no evidence of this. I think, if the leak is still there, it is so slight that whilst the gas can leak out, the dye which is suspended in the lubricating oil, may not.
Which is really frustrating. I hope it's fixed - new rad in place;
But I am not convinced. It's been over a month since it was re-gassed and I think the air con isn't as good as it was but the pump is still engaging.
V6Nelo said:
Enjoying the updates.
My V6 (Gtv) needs the AC to be looked at, I thought the dye method would be useful but interesting reading about your experience, might not be a simple as I thought.
Is that the Mocal replacement oil cooler in the last photo, I've got the kit from Autolusso with the rubber hoses, been maybe 5 years and no issues.
Thanks.My V6 (Gtv) needs the AC to be looked at, I thought the dye method would be useful but interesting reading about your experience, might not be a simple as I thought.
Is that the Mocal replacement oil cooler in the last photo, I've got the kit from Autolusso with the rubber hoses, been maybe 5 years and no issues.
Depends on how bad the leak is on yours I would imagine, mine is very slight and may actually be fixed this time.
The engine oil cooler is located on the offside, the radiator hanging loose in the last pic is actually the power steering oil cooler. It is the same size as the engine oil cooler and I think its an overkill - the 156 v6, which shares a lot of components just uses a bit of bent pipe looped across the front of the car. I've previously built a 156 with a 3.2 v6 and GTA steering rack but the standard oil cooler and it wasn't an issue, even on track.
Having said that, engine oil temp was an issue after sustained track use, so there may be some benefit to the AL Mocal set up. I wouldn't know as all the 3.2's I've had have been run on the standard cooler, including this one.
clowesy said:
I always enjoy your updates, Zombie. I owned my GTA for 3 years but never had the time/patience/skills/balls to to get as stuck in as you have, and I think that's what's required to really keep on top of the maintenance of these cars and get the most out of them. Your car looks stunning and really belies it's mileage.
Regarding the A/C system, I would disregard the use of a vacuum test to check for system leaks. The automated machines are useless at detecting a leak in this way, and even if you pull a good vacuum yourself, you're relying on a differential pressure of 1 Bar max to show up a leak on a system which can exceed 20 Bar on the high pressure side under heavy load. The best option would be to charge the system with oxygen-free nitrogen to a decent pressure and see whether it can hold that pressure. Also, an R134a sniffer/leak detector could help in tracking a leak down.
ETA... When you're tearing the A/C system down as you are, are you replacing the desiccant in the receiver/drier and then pulling a good, strong vacuum before recharging? You need to remove any moisture from the system as this can seriously impact performance.
Again, thank you for the words of encouragement, but I must admit, it is in desperate need of a wash, it is covered in a summer's worth of dust despite being kept undercover.Regarding the A/C system, I would disregard the use of a vacuum test to check for system leaks. The automated machines are useless at detecting a leak in this way, and even if you pull a good vacuum yourself, you're relying on a differential pressure of 1 Bar max to show up a leak on a system which can exceed 20 Bar on the high pressure side under heavy load. The best option would be to charge the system with oxygen-free nitrogen to a decent pressure and see whether it can hold that pressure. Also, an R134a sniffer/leak detector could help in tracking a leak down.
ETA... When you're tearing the A/C system down as you are, are you replacing the desiccant in the receiver/drier and then pulling a good, strong vacuum before recharging? You need to remove any moisture from the system as this can seriously impact performance.
AC - yeah I'm done with the vacuum testing, it doesn't seem to be an effective test as you say. I've tried using a sniffer on it - one of my friends has one at the garage he owns, but again, I've not found anything. But I am hoping the new condenser has fixed it.
The drier is integrated as a no serviceable component as part of the new condenser - cylinder on the nearside. The old condenser had the drier in the same place but this was serviceable and I think I have changed it in the past.
And another job.
I think it had a new thermostat the last time the engine was out. However, it did not come with a new gasket, we reused the old one with some Hylomar IIRC, and the inevitable happened.
The thermostat itself was also not working as well as it should. It's replacement came with a new gasket;
Looking at the pic now, I almost wish I had changed the 3 bolts holding it in with new ones to match the rest of the engine, but they're hidden under a wiring connection box.
Whilst changing the stat, I also found a leak from one of the cam cover oil breathers;
I knew this was a simple fix though, you just undo the retaining bolt remove the breather and there's a rubber O ring to replace.
However, there was another oil leak to attend to. We've had the engine out twice now, thinking that the rear main crank seal was leaking and twice found zero evidence that it was. But, again, I'd been finding evidence on the sump of a very slight oil weep.
I took the cover plate off the side of the gearbox, exposing the bottom of the flywheel and, again found no evidence of the rear main seal leaking. So We started looking at other suspects and decided that the rear bank cam cover gasket was to blame - the oil looked to be dripping down the back of the engine.
Obviously, we changed both of them, electing to use genuine gaskets;
I think it had a new thermostat the last time the engine was out. However, it did not come with a new gasket, we reused the old one with some Hylomar IIRC, and the inevitable happened.
The thermostat itself was also not working as well as it should. It's replacement came with a new gasket;
Looking at the pic now, I almost wish I had changed the 3 bolts holding it in with new ones to match the rest of the engine, but they're hidden under a wiring connection box.
Whilst changing the stat, I also found a leak from one of the cam cover oil breathers;
I knew this was a simple fix though, you just undo the retaining bolt remove the breather and there's a rubber O ring to replace.
However, there was another oil leak to attend to. We've had the engine out twice now, thinking that the rear main crank seal was leaking and twice found zero evidence that it was. But, again, I'd been finding evidence on the sump of a very slight oil weep.
I took the cover plate off the side of the gearbox, exposing the bottom of the flywheel and, again found no evidence of the rear main seal leaking. So We started looking at other suspects and decided that the rear bank cam cover gasket was to blame - the oil looked to be dripping down the back of the engine.
Obviously, we changed both of them, electing to use genuine gaskets;
Final job on the list was the brakes.
I con't remember for sure, but I think when I fitted new front pads last time around, we also changed the front discs as the discs that were on it had corroded on the inside face due to a lack of use.
I thought the (used) discs would be OK, but they weren't. They were a set I kept after using them on another car (3.2 converted 156) for some heavy trackway sessions with DS2500s;
Obviously, I thought they were OK when I fitted them but I think I had kept them with the intention of getting them skimmed if I chose to re-use them. After refitting them with new pads I found that they felt warped when they were hot. It wasn't too bad though which is why I added it to the list.
For the record, I really rate the DS2500, they were the only pad I used that lasted a full track day without destroying the discs. It was the engine oil temp that ended my sessions, not brake fade.
Anyway, the discs were she**ed...
I con't remember for sure, but I think when I fitted new front pads last time around, we also changed the front discs as the discs that were on it had corroded on the inside face due to a lack of use.
I thought the (used) discs would be OK, but they weren't. They were a set I kept after using them on another car (3.2 converted 156) for some heavy trackway sessions with DS2500s;
Obviously, I thought they were OK when I fitted them but I think I had kept them with the intention of getting them skimmed if I chose to re-use them. After refitting them with new pads I found that they felt warped when they were hot. It wasn't too bad though which is why I added it to the list.
For the record, I really rate the DS2500, they were the only pad I used that lasted a full track day without destroying the discs. It was the engine oil temp that ended my sessions, not brake fade.
Anyway, the discs were she**ed...
It's been a while since I've updated this thread, mainly because I didn't use the GTA over the winter - I currently have 3 cars including another "toy" and a diesel GT daily and, as a consequence of Covid, I WFH now which means I probably drive around 3,000 miles a year now.
With the weather improving I thought I'd tackle a few simple, little jobs.
First off, the rear wiper was well past its sell by date. It actually works too - The spindle is known for corroding and seizing up.
IMG_8666 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8665 by Zombie, on Flickr
Next up, the rear badge was looking a bit faded so we replaced that.
(the reflections in this pic look odd as I was using an iPhone in portrait mode and the algorithm blurred out some but not all reflections)
IMG_8668 by Zombie, on Flickr
It's held in place by 2 locating pins and a 10mm nut, accessed by removing the boot lid trim panel:
IMG_8677 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8681-2 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8683 by Zombie, on Flickr
So far, so good. Of course, simple jobs are often not. Like replacing the check strap - it was worn, causing it to click loudly as the door opened.
IMG_8673 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8675 by Zombie, on Flickr
Removal isn't as simple as it looks, it comes out from inside the door, which means removing the door card. But we knew that. And it's not that difficult.
IMG_8687 by Zombie, on Flickr
It shouldn't require the door to be removed though...
IMG_8688 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8692 by Zombie, on Flickr
When I removed the check strap I noticed a problem...
IMG_8693 by Zombie, on Flickr
IMG_8695 by Zombie, on Flickr
Yes. The strengthening plate around the check strap had cracked. 156's don't have this and are more prone to this problem it also means its the actual door frame that cracks.
I THINK GTs have a further revised design, I checked my 2008 GT and it does appear to be different.
But that didn't help solve the problem. "We" (my Dad) manufactured a replica strengthening plate and affixed it to the inside of the door using the existing bolt holes and the check strap's captive bolts to hold it all together.
I think it's a repair that will work but I'm still thinking about it. The only other solution I can think of is to take the door off again and weld the cracks up.
In the meanwhile, with the door off I gave the aperture a bit of a clean...
IMG_8697 by Zombie, on Flickr
With the weather improving I thought I'd tackle a few simple, little jobs.
First off, the rear wiper was well past its sell by date. It actually works too - The spindle is known for corroding and seizing up.
IMG_8666 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8665 by Zombie, on FlickrNext up, the rear badge was looking a bit faded so we replaced that.
(the reflections in this pic look odd as I was using an iPhone in portrait mode and the algorithm blurred out some but not all reflections)
IMG_8668 by Zombie, on FlickrIt's held in place by 2 locating pins and a 10mm nut, accessed by removing the boot lid trim panel:
IMG_8677 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8681-2 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8683 by Zombie, on FlickrSo far, so good. Of course, simple jobs are often not. Like replacing the check strap - it was worn, causing it to click loudly as the door opened.
IMG_8673 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8675 by Zombie, on FlickrRemoval isn't as simple as it looks, it comes out from inside the door, which means removing the door card. But we knew that. And it's not that difficult.
IMG_8687 by Zombie, on FlickrIt shouldn't require the door to be removed though...
IMG_8688 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8692 by Zombie, on FlickrWhen I removed the check strap I noticed a problem...
IMG_8693 by Zombie, on FlickrIMG_8695 by Zombie, on FlickrYes. The strengthening plate around the check strap had cracked. 156's don't have this and are more prone to this problem it also means its the actual door frame that cracks.
I THINK GTs have a further revised design, I checked my 2008 GT and it does appear to be different.
But that didn't help solve the problem. "We" (my Dad) manufactured a replica strengthening plate and affixed it to the inside of the door using the existing bolt holes and the check strap's captive bolts to hold it all together.
I think it's a repair that will work but I'm still thinking about it. The only other solution I can think of is to take the door off again and weld the cracks up.
In the meanwhile, with the door off I gave the aperture a bit of a clean...
IMG_8697 by Zombie, on FlickrIn addition to the above jobs, a big box arrived from partsworld:
IMG_8495 by Chris, on Flickr
As you might imagine, random bits of trim and other bits can be stupid expensive for what they are, so I keep an eye on their website and buy bits I don't really need as and when they turn up for a reasonable price.
This box contained....
IMG_8496 by Chris, on Flickr
Door seals, more seals and a fuel filler cap.
I know, it's not exactly a rotrex, LS3 or even something moderately exciting like springs to sort out the rear ride height...
The main door aperture seals wer OK but they weren't perfect;
IMG_8505 by Chris, on Flickr
(Look! No rust, as the interwebs may have you believe....)
IMG_8513 by Chris, on Flickr
New seal being fitted - I replaced both.
IMG_8511 by Chris, on Flickr
And again, more new door seals. Exciting stuff isn't it?
IMG_8519 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8514 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8517 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8525 by Chris, on Flickr
I feel like a total Dork posting about this. Final item. New fuel cap. Which was a PITA as the lock wouldn't come out of the old cap without it all being dismantled. (i.e. gently prised apart)
IMG_8499 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8503 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8506 by Chris, on Flickr
Anyway, I thought I'd complete the dork-age with the usual cleaning routine. I can't be the only one who goes this far?
In fairness I was washing off the dust and debris that had accumulated whilst it was in the carport / garage over the winter. And the underbody clean is just something we do as a routine.
(Before)
IMG_2343 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2349 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2355 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2360 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2363 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2368 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2384 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2388 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_2390 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8531 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8529 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_8495 by Chris, on FlickrAs you might imagine, random bits of trim and other bits can be stupid expensive for what they are, so I keep an eye on their website and buy bits I don't really need as and when they turn up for a reasonable price.
This box contained....
IMG_8496 by Chris, on FlickrDoor seals, more seals and a fuel filler cap.
I know, it's not exactly a rotrex, LS3 or even something moderately exciting like springs to sort out the rear ride height...
The main door aperture seals wer OK but they weren't perfect;
IMG_8505 by Chris, on Flickr(Look! No rust, as the interwebs may have you believe....)
IMG_8513 by Chris, on FlickrNew seal being fitted - I replaced both.
IMG_8511 by Chris, on FlickrAnd again, more new door seals. Exciting stuff isn't it?
IMG_8519 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8514 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8517 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8525 by Chris, on FlickrI feel like a total Dork posting about this. Final item. New fuel cap. Which was a PITA as the lock wouldn't come out of the old cap without it all being dismantled. (i.e. gently prised apart)
IMG_8499 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8503 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8506 by Chris, on FlickrAnyway, I thought I'd complete the dork-age with the usual cleaning routine. I can't be the only one who goes this far?
In fairness I was washing off the dust and debris that had accumulated whilst it was in the carport / garage over the winter. And the underbody clean is just something we do as a routine.
(Before)
IMG_2343 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2349 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2355 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2360 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2363 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2368 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2384 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2388 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_2390 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8531 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_8529 by Chris, on FlickrMDMA . said:
Good to see all the work being done. However, more info on the face lift, pearl white 156 SW please 
Thanks.The 156 is my Dad's. It really is unusual as it's also a factory V6. And it's a Ti Qsystem (Auto).
We also put a 3.0 in it...
He's selling it, if you're interested send me a PM?
Edited by Zombie on Tuesday 24th May 12:13
I'm not impressed Pistonheads.
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features/t...
I think the voting process is utterly compromised by ownership numbers. Which would explain why a dull as dishwater Golf would make it onto the list over a GTA. It seems to be more of a poll of who owns what within the PH membership.
Anyway. Update time, which is long overdue. The GTA has been hibernating over the winter and I've only really started to think about what I want to do with it this year recently.
Last year however, we did undertake a few jobs before the winter hit. Starting with the boot carpet. A well know parts supplier regularly updates their stock with genuine parts, which included a new boot carpet for something like 40 quid. Might have been cheaper, can't remember tbh. Know that the boot trim isn't the best, I bought one:
IMG_5336 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5343 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5339 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5340 by Chris, on Flickr
And it didn't fit. The original mat, has a cut out on the nearside to fit around the bose subwoofer and former CD Changer box on the offside:
IMG_5342 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5344 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5345 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_5346 by Chris, on Flickr
There was no way of fitting this under the sub, it needed to be trimmed to fit and the edge (it's a laminated mix of board, foam and carpet) re sealed.
My Dad found a furniture re-upholsterer who has since done this and the carpet has been fitted in the car. I've not taken any pics of it as yet because it's still a work in progress. We've found replacement (carpet) trim to for the seat backs that needs to be fitted and the side trims should clean up - they not as filthy as the floor but do need a proper clean;
IMG_5390 by Chris, on Flickr
As the boot was apart I took the opportunity to investigate the bose system as the bass has been dropping out intermittently.
We tested the Amp with a spare;
IMG_5394 by Chris, on Flickr
And the bass unit
IMG_5408 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_9267 by Chris, on Flickr
And.... found no problem with either one. So not the problem. Don't know what it is either. Might be a wiring issue in the back if the head unit. We checked that but I've not used the car since to see if the problem is still there. I expect that it is.
The jobs for this year are a bit more interesting. The springs and dampers currently fitted are Bilstien B8 dampers with eibach springs. With these fitted I think it sits too low at the front and too high at the back. And it understeers.
I can't justify spending £1,500 on some KW v3's, as much as I would like to, it's not a sensible option for me. But I have had an alert set up for GTA coilers and some eibach units eventually popped up on eBay;
IMG_9778 by Chris, on Flickr
Whilst I've not got round to fitting them (other stupid cars keep getting in the way (buy a BMW they said, it'll be be more reliable than an Alfa they said...), they did need cleaning before I was going to put them on the car which included making sure that the platforms would actually move - they were totally seized... And yes, I did find the grub screw that locks their position.
IMG_9780 by Chris, on Flickr
Cleaned ultrasonically
IMG_9909 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_9911 by Chris, on Flickr
And manually in a big tub with a toothbrush...
IMG_9910 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_9912 by Chris, on Flickr
Which means they're now ready to go on. Maybe easter weekend, depending on the weather.
Other jobs for the year include a service. And tyres. Maybe. They're not worn out but they are getting old. I was hoping that the Michelin PS4 S replacement would be launched this year but that's looking unlikely, at best. I might leave this till next year.
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features/t...
I think the voting process is utterly compromised by ownership numbers. Which would explain why a dull as dishwater Golf would make it onto the list over a GTA. It seems to be more of a poll of who owns what within the PH membership.
Anyway. Update time, which is long overdue. The GTA has been hibernating over the winter and I've only really started to think about what I want to do with it this year recently.
Last year however, we did undertake a few jobs before the winter hit. Starting with the boot carpet. A well know parts supplier regularly updates their stock with genuine parts, which included a new boot carpet for something like 40 quid. Might have been cheaper, can't remember tbh. Know that the boot trim isn't the best, I bought one:
IMG_5336 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5343 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5339 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5340 by Chris, on FlickrAnd it didn't fit. The original mat, has a cut out on the nearside to fit around the bose subwoofer and former CD Changer box on the offside:
IMG_5342 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5344 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5345 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_5346 by Chris, on FlickrThere was no way of fitting this under the sub, it needed to be trimmed to fit and the edge (it's a laminated mix of board, foam and carpet) re sealed.
My Dad found a furniture re-upholsterer who has since done this and the carpet has been fitted in the car. I've not taken any pics of it as yet because it's still a work in progress. We've found replacement (carpet) trim to for the seat backs that needs to be fitted and the side trims should clean up - they not as filthy as the floor but do need a proper clean;
IMG_5390 by Chris, on FlickrAs the boot was apart I took the opportunity to investigate the bose system as the bass has been dropping out intermittently.
We tested the Amp with a spare;
IMG_5394 by Chris, on FlickrAnd the bass unit
IMG_5408 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_9267 by Chris, on FlickrAnd.... found no problem with either one. So not the problem. Don't know what it is either. Might be a wiring issue in the back if the head unit. We checked that but I've not used the car since to see if the problem is still there. I expect that it is.
The jobs for this year are a bit more interesting. The springs and dampers currently fitted are Bilstien B8 dampers with eibach springs. With these fitted I think it sits too low at the front and too high at the back. And it understeers.
I can't justify spending £1,500 on some KW v3's, as much as I would like to, it's not a sensible option for me. But I have had an alert set up for GTA coilers and some eibach units eventually popped up on eBay;
IMG_9778 by Chris, on FlickrWhilst I've not got round to fitting them (other stupid cars keep getting in the way (buy a BMW they said, it'll be be more reliable than an Alfa they said...), they did need cleaning before I was going to put them on the car which included making sure that the platforms would actually move - they were totally seized... And yes, I did find the grub screw that locks their position.
IMG_9780 by Chris, on FlickrCleaned ultrasonically
IMG_9909 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_9911 by Chris, on FlickrAnd manually in a big tub with a toothbrush...
IMG_9910 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_9912 by Chris, on FlickrWhich means they're now ready to go on. Maybe easter weekend, depending on the weather.
Other jobs for the year include a service. And tyres. Maybe. They're not worn out but they are getting old. I was hoping that the Michelin PS4 S replacement would be launched this year but that's looking unlikely, at best. I might leave this till next year.
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