Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
Just a quick charger update - JMR have confirmed that the oil seal on the output side of the charger had become displaced, allowing oil past and hence the smokescreen.
John seemed to think that this was an early indication of possible wear to the magnesium housing, and where the old seal had settled nicely in, the new one didn’t take.
They are all interference fit seals (or should be), however, if this is no longer adequate to restrain it against the oil pressure, it now needs to be glued into place. John has source a 2 pack glue that will work on both the seal and the casing (I hope!) and the charger will be back with me next week.
It’s then a matter of bolting it back together and running it for an hour at idle with the outlet disconnected so I can see easily if seal fails again.
A predicted, I didn’t do anything more on th Corrado with my week off (but I am halfway through refurbishing a set of Kawasaki forks for a bike that’s been off the road since February, so that’s progress...)
John seemed to think that this was an early indication of possible wear to the magnesium housing, and where the old seal had settled nicely in, the new one didn’t take.
They are all interference fit seals (or should be), however, if this is no longer adequate to restrain it against the oil pressure, it now needs to be glued into place. John has source a 2 pack glue that will work on both the seal and the casing (I hope!) and the charger will be back with me next week.
It’s then a matter of bolting it back together and running it for an hour at idle with the outlet disconnected so I can see easily if seal fails again.
A predicted, I didn’t do anything more on th Corrado with my week off (but I am halfway through refurbishing a set of Kawasaki forks for a bike that’s been off the road since February, so that’s progress...)
The package has arrived.... Time to get some supercharger re-instalation underway.
Following @Slippydiff's excellent advice, I covered up the braided oil lines on the way....
... before getting the bolts on the airbox side in :
Next up the oil lines.... Oh dear. That's not good.
Lucky escape there, I must have over-tightened it last time. New banjo bolt (M8 x 1.0mm x 17mm shank) on order, but that will certainly mean that its not going to be done this weekend.
Still, it gives me time to drain the intercooler of oil, and so some other bits and pieces... Might even get the Kawasaki back on the road!
Following @Slippydiff's excellent advice, I covered up the braided oil lines on the way....
... before getting the bolts on the airbox side in :
Next up the oil lines.... Oh dear. That's not good.
Lucky escape there, I must have over-tightened it last time. New banjo bolt (M8 x 1.0mm x 17mm shank) on order, but that will certainly mean that its not going to be done this weekend.
Still, it gives me time to drain the intercooler of oil, and so some other bits and pieces... Might even get the Kawasaki back on the road!
A small Corrado update from antics over the weekend, some of them are even positive....
The nearside headlight had a snapped locating tab - caused by me putting it in a stupid place and it falling off that place and breaking the tab. I watched an excellent video on Delboy's Garage and picked up a soldering iron and tried my hand at plastic welding. Not too bad for a first attempt:
I had to make it messier though by adding a steel stitch for strength. Its now substantially stronger than it was though (and unlike my previous araldite attempts, this appears to hold)
Why was I doing this instead of the charger? Well, it needed doing to make the car roadworthy and also I was waiting for the banjo bolt. Also, I had a fear that the charger would fail again if I'm honest.
Having picked it up to put it back in...it rattled. A broken plastic sort of rattle. Not good. Upon further inspection, the headlight adjuster was broken.
To get at the headlight adjuster, you have to take the lense out, which luckily is nice and easy on cars that still have glass headlights.
I glued the broken bits back together, I'll be honest, it didn't work. Then I remembered that I had spare headlights in the loft from when I replaced the glass a while back. The upshot? I pulled out a headlight and tried to remove the adjuster. The 30 year old plastic broke.
I pulled out the second headlight being super careful. That adjuster broke as well. Fragile....
Very annoying, I now have three dismantled headlights with broken adjusters on the garage. I have a part on order which I'm hoping will replace one of the knackered ones.
That being the case, I thought I best get on with the bloody charger until the part arrives.
New bolt vs. old, a 12mm head vs. a 14mm head, but no other major differences.
Got the charger back in (much easier learning from my last installation mistakes).
Checked the oil feed and return lines had oil in them after some cranking with the coil HT lead removed.
John at JMR advised running the car with the charger output disconnected for at least half and hour to see if the oil seal had taken this time. I'll be honest, the engine wasn't entirely happy about that, there were some knocks and bangs, but eventually it idled for 30 minutes.
Good output of air, but there is still some oil. I'm not sure if this is normal levels or not. Less than there was though.
It cut out after half an hour without input from me. I'm not sure why, but that's obviously not ideal. I'll try again tomorrow and see what happens. Still, it's positive overall, I think.
What was less than ideal? Having run it up temperature, there's a coolant leak from the plastic elbow on top of the radiator.
FFS. I'm running out of patience with this car. I've got that part on order now too, I'm determined to get it back on the road despite its best attempts to thwart me.
Still got to clean out the intercooler and change the plugs (but at least I got the Kawasaki forks rebuilt).
The nearside headlight had a snapped locating tab - caused by me putting it in a stupid place and it falling off that place and breaking the tab. I watched an excellent video on Delboy's Garage and picked up a soldering iron and tried my hand at plastic welding. Not too bad for a first attempt:
I had to make it messier though by adding a steel stitch for strength. Its now substantially stronger than it was though (and unlike my previous araldite attempts, this appears to hold)
Why was I doing this instead of the charger? Well, it needed doing to make the car roadworthy and also I was waiting for the banjo bolt. Also, I had a fear that the charger would fail again if I'm honest.
Having picked it up to put it back in...it rattled. A broken plastic sort of rattle. Not good. Upon further inspection, the headlight adjuster was broken.
To get at the headlight adjuster, you have to take the lense out, which luckily is nice and easy on cars that still have glass headlights.
I glued the broken bits back together, I'll be honest, it didn't work. Then I remembered that I had spare headlights in the loft from when I replaced the glass a while back. The upshot? I pulled out a headlight and tried to remove the adjuster. The 30 year old plastic broke.
I pulled out the second headlight being super careful. That adjuster broke as well. Fragile....
Very annoying, I now have three dismantled headlights with broken adjusters on the garage. I have a part on order which I'm hoping will replace one of the knackered ones.
That being the case, I thought I best get on with the bloody charger until the part arrives.
New bolt vs. old, a 12mm head vs. a 14mm head, but no other major differences.
Got the charger back in (much easier learning from my last installation mistakes).
Checked the oil feed and return lines had oil in them after some cranking with the coil HT lead removed.
John at JMR advised running the car with the charger output disconnected for at least half and hour to see if the oil seal had taken this time. I'll be honest, the engine wasn't entirely happy about that, there were some knocks and bangs, but eventually it idled for 30 minutes.
Good output of air, but there is still some oil. I'm not sure if this is normal levels or not. Less than there was though.
It cut out after half an hour without input from me. I'm not sure why, but that's obviously not ideal. I'll try again tomorrow and see what happens. Still, it's positive overall, I think.
What was less than ideal? Having run it up temperature, there's a coolant leak from the plastic elbow on top of the radiator.
FFS. I'm running out of patience with this car. I've got that part on order now too, I'm determined to get it back on the road despite its best attempts to thwart me.
Still got to clean out the intercooler and change the plugs (but at least I got the Kawasaki forks rebuilt).
Day off today, so having done some other jobs (including some AX stuff), I managed to spend a few hours on the Corrado.
Had a chat with John at JMR, the oil that can be seen coming out is unlikely to be a result of the new glued in seal failing, so I can start putting it back together. I did another half hour run of it just to test, with similar results. Fingers crossed....
So, that means getting the rest of the oil out of the downstream end of the charger. There was a lot in the intercooler as I suspected there would be.
Manged to get the intercooler out by removing the wheel arch liner and undoing the 3 13mm bolts, the very very corroded 10mm ones that would also do the job are going nowhere without a drill I think...
The intercooler bracket is pretty scabby, and three of the rivets holding it on to the cooler have corroded away leaving it flapping. I can't put it back like that, so some anti rust treatment and more rivets will be needed (provided I can get those 10mm bolts out).
I'm pretty sure that it's the same part that was used in the Mk2 Golf GTD at the time (and the Passat with the same 1.6 TD engine, all 80 horses of it), although they're not exactly common either. I'll try and clean this one up though.
I have also found a US supplier of aluminium headlight adjusters (again following a chat with John - nice to know that yes, they all behave like that and shatter). The aluminium ones aren't cheap (5 times the price is the plastic kit I have on order), but worth knowing they're out there!
Had a chat with John at JMR, the oil that can be seen coming out is unlikely to be a result of the new glued in seal failing, so I can start putting it back together. I did another half hour run of it just to test, with similar results. Fingers crossed....
So, that means getting the rest of the oil out of the downstream end of the charger. There was a lot in the intercooler as I suspected there would be.
Manged to get the intercooler out by removing the wheel arch liner and undoing the 3 13mm bolts, the very very corroded 10mm ones that would also do the job are going nowhere without a drill I think...
The intercooler bracket is pretty scabby, and three of the rivets holding it on to the cooler have corroded away leaving it flapping. I can't put it back like that, so some anti rust treatment and more rivets will be needed (provided I can get those 10mm bolts out).
I'm pretty sure that it's the same part that was used in the Mk2 Golf GTD at the time (and the Passat with the same 1.6 TD engine, all 80 horses of it), although they're not exactly common either. I'll try and clean this one up though.
I have also found a US supplier of aluminium headlight adjusters (again following a chat with John - nice to know that yes, they all behave like that and shatter). The aluminium ones aren't cheap (5 times the price is the plastic kit I have on order), but worth knowing they're out there!
I'm afraid I gave up on fighting with the 10mm bolts. They weren't coming out in one piece, and removing them wasn't necessary for the job I was doing and would just add more work to a car I need to get back on the road (upcoming building work...its sat in the car port when the builders will need to be in 3 weeks time).
Very unfortunate that the £10 headlight adjustment kit didn't work out then. The supplied bolts were too short and the wrong diameter and thread pitch. Oh and the plastics weren't compatible with the reflector...or the headlight casing. Apart from that - perfect.
Still,if I can get the engine sorted, I can bung one of the spare headlights back in and move it under a 'daytime' MOT until the aluminium adjusters turn up from the USA. That was $113 that I really didn't want to spend, but I'm sure they'll be shiny....
All of that being said, I managed to make some intercooler progress. Here was the old broken arrangement once I'd drilled out the old rivets. Very, very carefully to avoid damaging the air pathways. Unfortunately some damage to the cooling fins was unavoidable.
Still, some new rivets later, and it was secure again.
Manged to get it installed tonight, and some of the pipework connected. It's a little better than it was. Also nice to see that clearly someone in VW thought about the air flow more than people give them credit for. The intercooler is nicely positioned to pick up air flow from the nearside vent under the fog light. It might not get the full cooling effect of a front mounted intercooler, but much better than the Passat or Golf design from memory.
Very unfortunate that the £10 headlight adjustment kit didn't work out then. The supplied bolts were too short and the wrong diameter and thread pitch. Oh and the plastics weren't compatible with the reflector...or the headlight casing. Apart from that - perfect.
Still,if I can get the engine sorted, I can bung one of the spare headlights back in and move it under a 'daytime' MOT until the aluminium adjusters turn up from the USA. That was $113 that I really didn't want to spend, but I'm sure they'll be shiny....
All of that being said, I managed to make some intercooler progress. Here was the old broken arrangement once I'd drilled out the old rivets. Very, very carefully to avoid damaging the air pathways. Unfortunately some damage to the cooling fins was unavoidable.
Still, some new rivets later, and it was secure again.
Manged to get it installed tonight, and some of the pipework connected. It's a little better than it was. Also nice to see that clearly someone in VW thought about the air flow more than people give them credit for. The intercooler is nicely positioned to pick up air flow from the nearside vent under the fog light. It might not get the full cooling effect of a front mounted intercooler, but much better than the Passat or Golf design from memory.
mercedeslimos said:
A buddy of mine got those aluminium adjusters this week, they look good and won't break again like the plastic ones.
That's good to hear, thanks. I'm just waiting for mine to arrive, but have progressed with putting the rest of it back together. Replaced the coolant elbow (which was surprisingly simple and didn't result in too much coolant loss :
Ran it up to temperature and in the process found a leak - one of the hoses near the inlet manifold:
This is part of the carbon canister emission contol. As such it's probably not doing a great deal for emissions given its age, but I don't want to remove it all right no, so settled for fixing the vacuum leak...
Hope to get a shakedown run today.
Shakedown run achieved, no clouds of oil smoke and nothing fell off.... 
Tightened up the supercharger bracing bolt which was loose, plugged in the OS headlight which I'd forgotten to do, and replaced the sidelight bulb.
I'm still running it as a daytime car for now until the headlight adjusters can be fitted. They've arrived in the country though as I've had a notification of a Customs charge. Splendid.
Tightened up the supercharger bracing bolt which was loose, plugged in the OS headlight which I'd forgotten to do, and replaced the sidelight bulb.
I'm still running it as a daytime car for now until the headlight adjusters can be fitted. They've arrived in the country though as I've had a notification of a Customs charge. Splendid.
Spinakerr said:
Good to hear, and impressive testing process to ensure the charger doesn't have any further issues.
I'd say you fully deserve a trouble free 2021 in the G60 now - good stuff!
Thanks, although it seems that as with so many things, 2020's awfulness bleeds into 2021...! I'd say you fully deserve a trouble free 2021 in the G60 now - good stuff!
The good news - no massive clouds of oil smoke, I have boost and while the gauges still flicker after an attempted quick fix with some contact client, all seemed well.
The bad news, driving down the A59, the engine cut out, all power lost and nothing to do but coast to a halt with the hazard lights on. Sigh.
A quick underbonnet check showed nothing obviously amiss, but while there was power to the starter motor, the engine wouldn't fire.
The good thing about having been around these cars for a while, are the little bits of information that lodge in your brain. Like reading YEARS ago about the habit of the fuel pump relay giving up without warning for no reason and it being a good idea to keep a spare in the glove compartment.
Ignition on, and against the background of the passing traffic was....nothing. No tell-tale hum of a priming pump.
Luckily having read the article, I thought it was a sensible idea rather than dismissing it, and have had a spare sat in there for years.
A 5 minute job to remove the trim and swap them over, and the engine started first time so we could continue on our way (to a snowy car park).
I have another relay (Meyle 1008009009) on order. If you type in just the part number without the word 'Corrado' it gets cheaper too.... Inspection of the old one didn't reveal anything obviously wrong/burnt/detached but the pump now works again, so it must be the culprit... right?
gforceg said:
Thanks, that's useful information. Do you happen to know if its a common part for all Corrados?
As ever, it's good to see your work and perseverance with the car. It is an inspiration.
Thanks! Perseverance is an essential quality when working on Corrados, they have a karmic balance that means when you fix one thing, another thing breaks to take its place.... As ever, it's good to see your work and perseverance with the car. It is an inspiration.
That's my excuse for leaving a couple of minor niggles in place anyway.
I'm not sure if it's common to all Corrado's, I would have thought all early ones though given the platform on which they're based and the shared components with the Mk2 Golfs. They may have altered it for the VR6 though.
I hope to get the headlight adjusters replaced this weekend, although as we are in the middle of a load of work on the house (lockdowns permitting) that might not happen as my tools are all packed away until the new garage is installed!
As it was barely above freezing, this was the perfect time to try and fit the headlight adjusters...
Easy to whip the headlight out by removing two 8mm bolts and a Philips screw, then the fun started.
Surround and clips holding the glass on removed :
Once the glass is off, you can look behind the reflector to see the adjuster :
You can release the adjuster from the reflector using a screwdriver, pick or penknife and try and unscrew it from the body of the headlight. This will result in it disintegrating completely:
If you're really lucky, you'll only get slightly lacerated by shards of plastic in the process, but you can then compare it to the shiny new parts.
The kit came with adjusters to replace the ones at the bottom of the light as well. This is significantly trickier, and after some investigations on a partly dismantled spare light, I decided to leave them alone in the existing lights as they weren't actually broken and I didn't fancy further injury.
Fitting the new ones isn't too bad, but it's important to get the fitting sequence correct.... Oh, and you'll need a 24mm socket (no ratchet, just the socket) to fit the new adjuster into the body of the headlight.You'll also need a hammer to tap the adjuster on as its an interference fit.
The knob isn't on as far as it's predecessor but I was getting nervous transferring the vibrations of the hammering to the other fragile parts of the light.
It is secure though and having repeated the procedure for the other light I just need to make the adjustments to the lights using a wall and some tape.
Easy to whip the headlight out by removing two 8mm bolts and a Philips screw, then the fun started.
Surround and clips holding the glass on removed :
Once the glass is off, you can look behind the reflector to see the adjuster :
You can release the adjuster from the reflector using a screwdriver, pick or penknife and try and unscrew it from the body of the headlight. This will result in it disintegrating completely:
If you're really lucky, you'll only get slightly lacerated by shards of plastic in the process, but you can then compare it to the shiny new parts.
The kit came with adjusters to replace the ones at the bottom of the light as well. This is significantly trickier, and after some investigations on a partly dismantled spare light, I decided to leave them alone in the existing lights as they weren't actually broken and I didn't fancy further injury.
Fitting the new ones isn't too bad, but it's important to get the fitting sequence correct.... Oh, and you'll need a 24mm socket (no ratchet, just the socket) to fit the new adjuster into the body of the headlight.You'll also need a hammer to tap the adjuster on as its an interference fit.
The knob isn't on as far as it's predecessor but I was getting nervous transferring the vibrations of the hammering to the other fragile parts of the light.
It is secure though and having repeated the procedure for the other light I just need to make the adjustments to the lights using a wall and some tape.
The Corrado has mostly been used for relatively short runs locally with the occasional longer trip for work.
The longer trips have highlighted that the blowers aren't very warm at all, and the oil temperature is hovering around 80 degrees on long runs where the outside temperature is about 2 degrees. Colder than it should be, which leads me to suspect that the thermostat has stuck open. The water temperature reading is low as well, but it's never been entirely accurate. This will be a job for when I have space in the back yard again (along with investigating the knocking from the off side front suspension - I suspect a worn bush ).
I needed the car for a night shift yesterday and having spent half an hour dremmelling a little more of the driver's side wiper arm (success), I went to fill it with petrol and it wouldn't start.
I knew it was low on fuel, but adding 6l of fuel didn't help (having cycled across town to get some - I got done funny looks at the pumps). There followed a checking of relays, distributor cap, a change of plugs and checking after every step.
It still wouldn't start every time, or if it did, it would then die after idling poorly.
Eventually on my last attempt, it settled into an idle, and there followed a very cautious trip to brim the tank. I can only conclude that it REALLY doesn't like running out of petrol and takes quite a lot of coaxing back into life. I think after these short runs which are pretty inefficient, I need to err on the side of caution with the fuel gauge and reduce my 'it does about 300 miles per tank' down to 250!
The longer trips have highlighted that the blowers aren't very warm at all, and the oil temperature is hovering around 80 degrees on long runs where the outside temperature is about 2 degrees. Colder than it should be, which leads me to suspect that the thermostat has stuck open. The water temperature reading is low as well, but it's never been entirely accurate. This will be a job for when I have space in the back yard again (along with investigating the knocking from the off side front suspension - I suspect a worn bush ).
I needed the car for a night shift yesterday and having spent half an hour dremmelling a little more of the driver's side wiper arm (success), I went to fill it with petrol and it wouldn't start.
I knew it was low on fuel, but adding 6l of fuel didn't help (having cycled across town to get some - I got done funny looks at the pumps). There followed a checking of relays, distributor cap, a change of plugs and checking after every step.
It still wouldn't start every time, or if it did, it would then die after idling poorly.
Eventually on my last attempt, it settled into an idle, and there followed a very cautious trip to brim the tank. I can only conclude that it REALLY doesn't like running out of petrol and takes quite a lot of coaxing back into life. I think after these short runs which are pretty inefficient, I need to err on the side of caution with the fuel gauge and reduce my 'it does about 300 miles per tank' down to 250!
Thanks both, I’m hoping it’s not the fuel pump as it one of the early things I changed after getting the car....the symptoms are slightly different (for now) but I’ll keep an eye on them and start tracking down parts if I need to.
It managed the return trip to the night shift with no issues though, for which I’m very glad! I’ll see how it get on in the snowy Esk Valley on Friday!
It managed the return trip to the night shift with no issues though, for which I’m very glad! I’ll see how it get on in the snowy Esk Valley on Friday!
kers.
Thanks all. Not very happy, but it could have been worse I suppose.
Managed to find a pair of doors and the glass panel, and the insurance company (much to my surprise) have said that they think it is repairable, and that I can use a repair place of my choice.
Not going to be beaten by the toerags!
Managed to find a pair of doors and the glass panel, and the insurance company (much to my surprise) have said that they think it is repairable, and that I can use a repair place of my choice.
Not going to be beaten by the toerags!
@gallonspermile I didn’t, as unfortunately they have bent the bottom of the door in the process of peeling open the top.
They’ve also put dents in the A pillar and scratches in the roof where they used whatever their prying implement was, so there’s going to be some spray work required.
They’ve also put dents in the A pillar and scratches in the roof where they used whatever their prying implement was, so there’s going to be some spray work required.
Thanks again all, mostly for making be feel better about today. I think I have found the parts and will wait for the judgement of the insurance company.
Just to add to today’s automotive woes, I borrowed a car from my in-laws for the one thing I had to do today. Drove over a pothole at 5mph, snapped the O/S/F spring and cookie cuttered the front tyre. Had to get recovered to the garage (and they are now without a car).
Hope to get that fixed early this coming week.
I have now had half a bottle of random home brewed wine that I found in a cupboard, and feel better.
Just to add to today’s automotive woes, I borrowed a car from my in-laws for the one thing I had to do today. Drove over a pothole at 5mph, snapped the O/S/F spring and cookie cuttered the front tyre. Had to get recovered to the garage (and they are now without a car).
Hope to get that fixed early this coming week.
I have now had half a bottle of random home brewed wine that I found in a cupboard, and feel better.
Thanks all. Still awaiting the assessment from the insurance company, but they called yesterday to say that actually they /have/ found a repair centre in York that they'd like to use.
The VW Main Dealer.
I have reservations about that. It has been agreed that they will send someone to take a look at it and make a decision, but the car is not going anywhere until its going somewhere to get repaired. This may or may not be the Main Dealer!
_Mja_ thanks very much for the offer of the door (and general helpful advice). Corrado owners are a good bunch! I'm actually collecting 2 doors and the glass tomorrow from Teeside as I found someone breaking a 16v. I'm in the CCGB (but not on Facebook) and AS a long time member of The Forum, would agree with you about its post count. Then again, I'm posting on here, not there, so am partly to blame....
The Corrado will be back on the road, even if I do all of the prep work (door swaps etc.) myself and just take it to a body shop for spaying. Watch this space Spinakerr!
Apparently talking to my friend at the garage, joy riding is back, but the targets are cars of this era and older because they're easier to pinch. Luckily in this case, it would seem that the perps were as inept as they were mindless. I have ordered some additional security though - going back to the 90s with a Stoplock!
In a more positive turn of events, the Volvo is fixed (apart from the brakes which really need doing the next time I can borrow it from my in laws), and we have the best neighbours in the world. They have lent us their Mk4 Golf V5 for the daily errands
Makes a good noise!
The VW Main Dealer.
I have reservations about that. It has been agreed that they will send someone to take a look at it and make a decision, but the car is not going anywhere until its going somewhere to get repaired. This may or may not be the Main Dealer!
_Mja_ thanks very much for the offer of the door (and general helpful advice). Corrado owners are a good bunch! I'm actually collecting 2 doors and the glass tomorrow from Teeside as I found someone breaking a 16v. I'm in the CCGB (but not on Facebook) and AS a long time member of The Forum, would agree with you about its post count. Then again, I'm posting on here, not there, so am partly to blame....
The Corrado will be back on the road, even if I do all of the prep work (door swaps etc.) myself and just take it to a body shop for spaying. Watch this space Spinakerr!
Apparently talking to my friend at the garage, joy riding is back, but the targets are cars of this era and older because they're easier to pinch. Luckily in this case, it would seem that the perps were as inept as they were mindless. I have ordered some additional security though - going back to the 90s with a Stoplock!
In a more positive turn of events, the Volvo is fixed (apart from the brakes which really need doing the next time I can borrow it from my in laws), and we have the best neighbours in the world. They have lent us their Mk4 Golf V5 for the daily errands
Makes a good noise!
_Mja_ said:
Ahh good to hear you're getting somewhere and haven't lost the heart with it. Mine has been annoying me recently only becuase I found a rust hole on the jacking point after spending out on a full windows out respray etc and thought I was done for a while. It is currently sitting without an interior as i plan to waxoil it but maybe i should leave it that way if the thieves have them in their sight for joy riding!
You've got great neigbours! I wish I bought a v5 as a run around instead of the pd130 I have. I don't need a diesel although it a punchy little unit. Do like the mk4 as car, controversal i know but it's such a solid rust free motor that feels like it will go on and on.
I can see how finding a rust hole after all that would be immensely frustrating. Stick with it though (just get some large visible security....or as has been suggested on the forum....a dog You've got great neigbours! I wish I bought a v5 as a run around instead of the pd130 I have. I don't need a diesel although it a punchy little unit. Do like the mk4 as car, controversal i know but it's such a solid rust free motor that feels like it will go on and on.
)I have the doors, and the insurance company have offered cash in lieu of repairs as an alternative to handing it over to the main dealer. I think I will be taking that, and will swap over door locks, window mechanisms etc. myself before sending it to a body shop for a respray.
In the mean time, I thought I’d wash the ‘courtesy’ car. I really do have great neighbours, they are lovely, lovely people.
An interesting drive, it does make me appreciate how good the Corrado’s chassis engineering was. The Golf is a nice and well rounded car, but doesn’t feel as responsive (unsurprising), although it seems well engineered, and I confess I really rather like it!
I was lucky with the doors, there was someone breaking an early 16v (non electric windows) near Thornaby and I was booked in to visit a site for work less than 2 miles away, so all the parts are now in my garage.
The doors have a couple of minor dings, but are solid and rot free for a very reasonable price.
It will take some work to transfer the internals, but that's something I can take on (carefully)!
The doors have a couple of minor dings, but are solid and rot free for a very reasonable price.
It will take some work to transfer the internals, but that's something I can take on (carefully)!
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