Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
As and avid reader of the book of lies will know, 'Refitting is the reverse of removal.'
This really helps if you wrote everything down/took pictures/did it yesterday and not 4 months ago.
However, managed to get some more progress made today, and it is slowly coming back together. I also managed to sit my professional review and test-ride a Ducati 999s too, so it's been a good couple of weeks
The cooling system was connected up and test fitted:
All the hoses seem to fit OK. The radiator went back in OK....to be taken out and put back in again multiple times as the following went in:
Oil cooler and plumbing:
Radiator fan housing (that was a puzzle that required a lot of removal of previously fitted bits.
Supercharger outlet pipework (the new BBM delight) - that required a lot a tweaking too as a new part that wasn't there before.
Power steering pipework
I used stainless bits wherever possible in the refitting, except where I didn't have suitable bits, then the original bits went back in.
All in all, then engine bay, now looks like and engine bay again i.e full of stuff and difficult to work on again!
With the new bits, it's now a little bit tighter than before between the fan and the supercharger outlet:
Next step is to change the oil, add coolant and fire it all up to check for leaks....
Cheers,
Tom
This really helps if you wrote everything down/took pictures/did it yesterday and not 4 months ago.
However, managed to get some more progress made today, and it is slowly coming back together. I also managed to sit my professional review and test-ride a Ducati 999s too, so it's been a good couple of weeks
The cooling system was connected up and test fitted:
All the hoses seem to fit OK. The radiator went back in OK....to be taken out and put back in again multiple times as the following went in:
Oil cooler and plumbing:
Radiator fan housing (that was a puzzle that required a lot of removal of previously fitted bits.
Supercharger outlet pipework (the new BBM delight) - that required a lot a tweaking too as a new part that wasn't there before.
Power steering pipework
I used stainless bits wherever possible in the refitting, except where I didn't have suitable bits, then the original bits went back in.
All in all, then engine bay, now looks like and engine bay again i.e full of stuff and difficult to work on again!
With the new bits, it's now a little bit tighter than before between the fan and the supercharger outlet:
Next step is to change the oil, add coolant and fire it all up to check for leaks....
Cheers,
Tom
More progress today:
Oil dropped and replaced with ECP's finest 10-40 semi-synthetic.
Power steering reservoir topped up to max
Cooling system filled with Comma Xtreme G48 Coolant (suitable for VWs up to 1996) and de-ionised water (50/50 mix).
Battery connected and up she fired, like she'd never been off the road! Bloody marvellous!
Drank down a lot of the coolant necessitating a top-up, and the same with the oil and PAS fluid, however, I topped all of these up and ran her up to temperature until the fan kicked in.... Hurrah!
All looking relatively even.
Expansion tank shows a good heat distribution
Not sure about the heat distribution in the radiator mind...
Still, a good first run - I'm going to put the blowers on full and repeat the exercise later this week to make sure the coolant system is fully bled (and add a little more coolant as I'm below the minimum),
Supercharger sounds louder too
Cheers,
Tom
Oil dropped and replaced with ECP's finest 10-40 semi-synthetic.
Power steering reservoir topped up to max
Cooling system filled with Comma Xtreme G48 Coolant (suitable for VWs up to 1996) and de-ionised water (50/50 mix).
Battery connected and up she fired, like she'd never been off the road! Bloody marvellous!
Drank down a lot of the coolant necessitating a top-up, and the same with the oil and PAS fluid, however, I topped all of these up and ran her up to temperature until the fan kicked in.... Hurrah!
All looking relatively even.
Expansion tank shows a good heat distribution
Not sure about the heat distribution in the radiator mind...
Still, a good first run - I'm going to put the blowers on full and repeat the exercise later this week to make sure the coolant system is fully bled (and add a little more coolant as I'm below the minimum),
Supercharger sounds louder too
Cheers,
Tom
darkyoung1000 said:
More progress today:
Not sure about the heat distribution in the radiator mind...
Still, a good first run - I'm going to put the blowers on full and repeat the exercise later this week to make sure the coolant system is fully bled (and add a little more coolant as I'm below the minimum),
Supercharger sounds louder too
Cheers,
Tom
That's cool (excuse the pun) & technical!!!!!! The G60 single factory fan is offset toward the passenger side or right of the picture so the hot area in the top left of the pic is only likely to occur when the car is stationary and wouldn't normally be an issue in general driving. Have you tried removing the radiator and blasting water via a hose through it to check the flow?? Not sure about the heat distribution in the radiator mind...
Still, a good first run - I'm going to put the blowers on full and repeat the exercise later this week to make sure the coolant system is fully bled (and add a little more coolant as I'm below the minimum),
Supercharger sounds louder too
Cheers,
Tom
Best tip on the coolant system is to jack the front of the car so that the expansion bottle is then higher than the heater matrix, fill the expansion tank up above the max , turns the heaters on full heat , allow the car to build up some heat an give it a few revs to see if coolant is being expelled from the expansion tank. Periodically squeezing the radiator hoses helps shift air out to. The expansion bottle is likely to pour over as the temperature builds up to the point when the fan starts to come on + the system would normally be building pressure.
Once the fans have run a cycle and turned off, you can switch the engine off , lower the car to ground level an let it cool before a final level check an bang the cap on - Blue cap, check the seal on the inside is sitting correctly and not folded over.
Hopefully that should do it!!
Regarding G60 noise - YES that's your BBM outpipe doing it's thing. My setup is a little different with a longer metal pipe and smaller silicone link pipe to the intercooler but you can certainly tell the difference - plus no boost leaks!!
Thanks @aka_kerrly, some useful tips.
Got the coolant system bled nicely, and all seems well.
While messing around with the FLIR though, I did notice the cylinder head temp around the spark plug is 4-10 degrees warmer than any other.... Probably means the sum total of bugger all, but I still found it intriguing!
With most stuff in the engine bay now fettled, I set about doing the brake lines which were an advisory on the last MOT. Time for Kunifer all round!
Managed to not shear off the connection with the calliper which was good!
A little bit of bending, straightening, sawing and application of the flaring tool later....
I decided to do the hose at the same time too, as I was there.
Next step is the front to back lines, but I need to pick up more pipe first. I'm also off for a play on the bike at Snetterton, so that's next weekend's job!
Cheers,
Tom
Got the coolant system bled nicely, and all seems well.
While messing around with the FLIR though, I did notice the cylinder head temp around the spark plug is 4-10 degrees warmer than any other.... Probably means the sum total of bugger all, but I still found it intriguing!
With most stuff in the engine bay now fettled, I set about doing the brake lines which were an advisory on the last MOT. Time for Kunifer all round!
Managed to not shear off the connection with the calliper which was good!
A little bit of bending, straightening, sawing and application of the flaring tool later....
I decided to do the hose at the same time too, as I was there.
Next step is the front to back lines, but I need to pick up more pipe first. I'm also off for a play on the bike at Snetterton, so that's next weekend's job!
Cheers,
Tom
These are exactly the bits I need to make up & I've never made such intricate parts before so there could be a few trials.
I'm at a stage on my G60 where having stripped/repainted the entire underside it is only the brake lines that are original so I'd like to have the complete front>back replaced.
I've already replaced the flexis with HEL braided lines which have stainless fittings but opted for black overcoat & no branding so that they appear OE.
Since the picture the exhaust has been swapped for this rather lovely bit of kit, 4 branch, a Rays stainless 2box system with decat pipe. it's very similar to Jetex systems but marginally larger bore.
Nice! I keep being tempted by the thoughts of an exhaust upgrade, but I'll wait until it needs replacing....
The kunifer is really nice to work with. Making the little fiddly pipes takes a little time and effort, but it's easier to work than steel and more resilient than pure copper. I've never felt in danger of kinking it!
The brake flaring tool is borrowed from a mate and is I think of1980s vintage. It appears much more robust than other stuff I've looked at though!
Good luck with yours.
The kunifer is really nice to work with. Making the little fiddly pipes takes a little time and effort, but it's easier to work than steel and more resilient than pure copper. I've never felt in danger of kinking it!
The brake flaring tool is borrowed from a mate and is I think of1980s vintage. It appears much more robust than other stuff I've looked at though!
Good luck with yours.
More brake line progress - so much so that there's only 2 pipes left on the car that aren't made from kunifer!
They are the two on the left that go to the master cylinder, and in all honesty, I'm inclined to leave them.... They look at be a total swine to get at!
The other ones that I've done required a little persuasion to come off. By persuasion, I mean they needed to be cut with a hacksaw and then an 11mm hex socket used to remove the remains. The brake spanner did nothing apart from round things off.
From this:
Via this:
To this:
I have a day off tomorrow which means hopefully more progress, although the AX is going for its MOT, so I may have my effort diverted elsewhere!
They are the two on the left that go to the master cylinder, and in all honesty, I'm inclined to leave them.... They look at be a total swine to get at!
The other ones that I've done required a little persuasion to come off. By persuasion, I mean they needed to be cut with a hacksaw and then an 11mm hex socket used to remove the remains. The brake spanner did nothing apart from round things off.
From this:
Via this:
To this:
I have a day off tomorrow which means hopefully more progress, although the AX is going for its MOT, so I may have my effort diverted elsewhere!
@aka_kerrly - thanks, it's a satisfying job...once it's done!
I'm managing all the lines with the front up on axle stands and the rear wheels on the ground - the rear pipes have already been done though! The compensator is easy to get to with the nose up slightly - enough for access with a hacksaw and socket anyway!
If you're going to give them a go, a vice is handy for making the last tighter bends in the pipes where there's not much clearance for the flaring tool. This means you can put the male connector on, flare the pipe end when it's straight, then grip the male connector to make the final bends. Based upon today, you'll need to make a few alterations when fitting anyway.
The AX did fail it's MOT today, so not as much progress as I might have liked (and I haven't even started fixing it yet....).
However, despite the two remaining pipes in the engine bay not NEEDING to be done, they needed to be done! Access is a total pain if you don't want to take the brake fluid reservoir off (I didn't).
The off side front pipe from the master cylinder isn't too bad, but crosses the rest to sit on the bulkhead before joining the 'T' section which splits the force to the near side front and off side rear calipers.
Can you see the other pipe? No? That's because it's under the reservoir.... This little tinker on the off side rear of the master cylinder is the counterpart to the much more easily accessible one on the nearside. This tricky horror runs to a female/female connector that then transfers the pressure to the nearside rear caliper.
This allows the braking force to be split diagonally across calipers, so if one part of the system fails, in theory, you can still slow the car without it pulling too much one way or the other.
If you're doing this line, remove the air box and unclip the fuel lines, as it gives you just enough room to wield and 11mm spanner. The good news is that because it's a pain to get at, it's protected from the elements and will actually move!
I managed to get both lines out. It's worth noting at this point, that a really smart person would have sketched out the layout before cutting anything. I'm not that person (as I had to work out where the compensator lines went retrospectively...oops) but I had learned enough to draw a diagram this time round!
I got the most difficult line fabricated and installed, given the access, or wasn't a the easiest job, but I did find the perfect use for an iPhone....
I also found myself out of new shiny male connectors during the day. However a quick session with the angle grinder on the old brake lines left me with 3 of the old connectors that were still reasonable:
After a quick drill and wire brush session, they were ready for re-use.
I know it would probably have made more sense to buy new ones, but that would have involved a trip to the factors, and also...I liked making them shiny!
On call this coming week, so hopefully lots more garage time!
I'm managing all the lines with the front up on axle stands and the rear wheels on the ground - the rear pipes have already been done though! The compensator is easy to get to with the nose up slightly - enough for access with a hacksaw and socket anyway!
If you're going to give them a go, a vice is handy for making the last tighter bends in the pipes where there's not much clearance for the flaring tool. This means you can put the male connector on, flare the pipe end when it's straight, then grip the male connector to make the final bends. Based upon today, you'll need to make a few alterations when fitting anyway.
The AX did fail it's MOT today, so not as much progress as I might have liked (and I haven't even started fixing it yet....).
However, despite the two remaining pipes in the engine bay not NEEDING to be done, they needed to be done! Access is a total pain if you don't want to take the brake fluid reservoir off (I didn't).
The off side front pipe from the master cylinder isn't too bad, but crosses the rest to sit on the bulkhead before joining the 'T' section which splits the force to the near side front and off side rear calipers.
Can you see the other pipe? No? That's because it's under the reservoir.... This little tinker on the off side rear of the master cylinder is the counterpart to the much more easily accessible one on the nearside. This tricky horror runs to a female/female connector that then transfers the pressure to the nearside rear caliper.
This allows the braking force to be split diagonally across calipers, so if one part of the system fails, in theory, you can still slow the car without it pulling too much one way or the other.
If you're doing this line, remove the air box and unclip the fuel lines, as it gives you just enough room to wield and 11mm spanner. The good news is that because it's a pain to get at, it's protected from the elements and will actually move!
I managed to get both lines out. It's worth noting at this point, that a really smart person would have sketched out the layout before cutting anything. I'm not that person (as I had to work out where the compensator lines went retrospectively...oops) but I had learned enough to draw a diagram this time round!
I got the most difficult line fabricated and installed, given the access, or wasn't a the easiest job, but I did find the perfect use for an iPhone....
I also found myself out of new shiny male connectors during the day. However a quick session with the angle grinder on the old brake lines left me with 3 of the old connectors that were still reasonable:
After a quick drill and wire brush session, they were ready for re-use.
I know it would probably have made more sense to buy new ones, but that would have involved a trip to the factors, and also...I liked making them shiny!
On call this coming week, so hopefully lots more garage time!
A little more progress yesterday, all brake lines are now in, and I've started putting the interior back together.
A few replacements with stainless fastenings along the way to delay future rust problems in that most critical of elements, the central rear armrest....
Hopefully get the brakes bled this afternoon and then it's MOT time I think!
A few replacements with stainless fastenings along the way to delay future rust problems in that most critical of elements, the central rear armrest....
Hopefully get the brakes bled this afternoon and then it's MOT time I think!
Having got the Citroën through its MOT, I managed to put more time into the Corrado again.
Getting the brakes bled was a pain and involved an hour long session of "up....up...down....down" call and response with my other half in the driver's seat, and me bouncing around the bleed nipples with an 11mm spanner.
It's a lot easier with all four wheels off so the car is level and all of the calipers accessible. It also helps to have a head of pressure built up so you stand a fighting chance of getting some fluid through along with the air!
With this done, it was time to get the front bumper back on. Getting the arch liners in involved bicycle tyre levers as the perfect implement:
Given the slightly corroded state of the large bumper mounting bolts that came out (they can end up sat in water) they were replaced with stainless ones and spring washers:
...and lo, it looked like a car again!
Also did a couple of minor touch up jobs such as the number plate light surround:
Today was D-day. The first MOT in nearly a couple of years, with the car having been off the road for 10 months.
What had I forgotten to do....
Oh...ok. I'll take that! Emissions good, and it was the one caliper that I knew to be old and tired. Excellent!
Just got back in from a 100 mile celebration including a play with an A3 on the Ring Road, which I thoroughly enjoyed.... The removal of the silencer really means that the charger can be heard, but it's never intrusive.
What's also good is that your can hear the hiss of compressed air from the charger as you modulate the throttle.
Love it!
Getting the brakes bled was a pain and involved an hour long session of "up....up...down....down" call and response with my other half in the driver's seat, and me bouncing around the bleed nipples with an 11mm spanner.
It's a lot easier with all four wheels off so the car is level and all of the calipers accessible. It also helps to have a head of pressure built up so you stand a fighting chance of getting some fluid through along with the air!
With this done, it was time to get the front bumper back on. Getting the arch liners in involved bicycle tyre levers as the perfect implement:
Given the slightly corroded state of the large bumper mounting bolts that came out (they can end up sat in water) they were replaced with stainless ones and spring washers:
...and lo, it looked like a car again!
Also did a couple of minor touch up jobs such as the number plate light surround:
Today was D-day. The first MOT in nearly a couple of years, with the car having been off the road for 10 months.
What had I forgotten to do....
Oh...ok. I'll take that! Emissions good, and it was the one caliper that I knew to be old and tired. Excellent!
Just got back in from a 100 mile celebration including a play with an A3 on the Ring Road, which I thoroughly enjoyed.... The removal of the silencer really means that the charger can be heard, but it's never intrusive.
What's also good is that your can hear the hiss of compressed air from the charger as you modulate the throttle.
Love it!
The Corrado and I haven't had the best relationship for the latter part of this summer, but that's more through my neglect than anything else.
Did one other long journey (Alton Towers for a mate's Birthday) and then the next time I went to use it a week later there were issues.
The coolant light was flashing and it developed a misfire before I got off the driveway. I then tried to open the bonnet to take a look and the release cable failed...
As I was in a hurry, or went back behind the gates and I took the bike instead! I then didn't have any free time to address the issues and so ended up SORN-ing it for a while while I contemplated possible HGF issues.
I had some time over the bank holiday to investigate further though and there was good news. The bonnet release cable hadn't broken, and I was able to get the bonnet up using the excellent Corrado Forum guide. Hook the seatbelt round the release handle then press down on the bonnet! Hey presto, one open bonnet! Some minor adjustments later and that was one off the list...
Looking at the expansion tank and oil filler cap, there was no sign of cross contamination but the coolant level was low. Most be going somewhere though, so I felt around all the new hose connections until I found the culprit at the bottom of the radiator on the N/S. It was wet and the others weren't, so a little adjustment later, and that should be the problem sorted.... A trick I learned from the NC30 was that even when every hose seems perfectly tight, you've probably missed one somewhere!
At the risk of sounding smug, what was really nice was the fact that I'd aligned all of the hose clamp adjusters where they could be accessed with the minimum of effort! It was a 30s job to tighten it (although it was in the easiest location).
Bouyed by the fact that HGF was off the cards for now, I went hunting the misfire.
Yup, that'll do it:
The cap was nearly 4 years old and was an inexpensive item from Euro Car Parts. There was evidence of wear in the rotor arm too, so I ordered some Bosch items and replaced both. The HT lead to cylinder 2 was corroded as well so a new set of leads may be on the cards.
In my previous investigations, I'd managed to snap the dipstick alignment tube off, so replaced that too. A much more challenging job as the plastic was very brittle and took some persuading that it didn't just want to crumble into the dipstick tube.
All that done and with a new VED payment having been made, we went for a potter to do Sunday domestic stuff. Thoroughly enjoyable to be back in it after a month of, although a reminder of the jobs still outstanding!
Did one other long journey (Alton Towers for a mate's Birthday) and then the next time I went to use it a week later there were issues.
The coolant light was flashing and it developed a misfire before I got off the driveway. I then tried to open the bonnet to take a look and the release cable failed...
As I was in a hurry, or went back behind the gates and I took the bike instead! I then didn't have any free time to address the issues and so ended up SORN-ing it for a while while I contemplated possible HGF issues.
I had some time over the bank holiday to investigate further though and there was good news. The bonnet release cable hadn't broken, and I was able to get the bonnet up using the excellent Corrado Forum guide. Hook the seatbelt round the release handle then press down on the bonnet! Hey presto, one open bonnet! Some minor adjustments later and that was one off the list...
Looking at the expansion tank and oil filler cap, there was no sign of cross contamination but the coolant level was low. Most be going somewhere though, so I felt around all the new hose connections until I found the culprit at the bottom of the radiator on the N/S. It was wet and the others weren't, so a little adjustment later, and that should be the problem sorted.... A trick I learned from the NC30 was that even when every hose seems perfectly tight, you've probably missed one somewhere!
At the risk of sounding smug, what was really nice was the fact that I'd aligned all of the hose clamp adjusters where they could be accessed with the minimum of effort! It was a 30s job to tighten it (although it was in the easiest location).
Bouyed by the fact that HGF was off the cards for now, I went hunting the misfire.
Yup, that'll do it:
The cap was nearly 4 years old and was an inexpensive item from Euro Car Parts. There was evidence of wear in the rotor arm too, so I ordered some Bosch items and replaced both. The HT lead to cylinder 2 was corroded as well so a new set of leads may be on the cards.
In my previous investigations, I'd managed to snap the dipstick alignment tube off, so replaced that too. A much more challenging job as the plastic was very brittle and took some persuading that it didn't just want to crumble into the dipstick tube.
All that done and with a new VED payment having been made, we went for a potter to do Sunday domestic stuff. Thoroughly enjoyable to be back in it after a month of, although a reminder of the jobs still outstanding!
Thanks as usual for the updates. I decided just before leaving the house of Friday morning that I'd dig my Corrado out and go in that. At this time of the year I never know which may be my last drive of the year!
Luckily none of my to do list jobs are show stoppers but I should really get a few done over the winter. Sagging headlining, anyone?
Luckily none of my to do list jobs are show stoppers but I should really get a few done over the winter. Sagging headlining, anyone?
@gforceg - good luck with the headlining, and if you take any pictures when you do it, post them up. I need to take a look at my sunroof at some point, and pointers on headlining removal would be handy.
Firstly however I need to tackle a different issue discovered over the weekend....
Used the car to do a round trip to Norfolk this weekend, and or performed brilliantly.
However, it rained solidly most of yesterday for the trip back up and upon arriving home, found the passenger footwell very damp:
It was cold, and didn't smell of coolant thankfully, however, I've no idea where it's coming from so some investigation is required....
Firstly however I need to tackle a different issue discovered over the weekend....
Used the car to do a round trip to Norfolk this weekend, and or performed brilliantly.
However, it rained solidly most of yesterday for the trip back up and upon arriving home, found the passenger footwell very damp:
It was cold, and didn't smell of coolant thankfully, however, I've no idea where it's coming from so some investigation is required....
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Wednesday 24th October 06:48
Looks like it's dripping from the blower, I'd check the drain holes under the rain cover/scuttle.
Have you had a look at the TT wiper arm swap? I put it off for a few years as I didn't think it would make that much difference, but it really does. Also, make sure you keep a close eye on those center caps, they're rather rare and go for a pretty penny on ebay!
Have you had a look at the TT wiper arm swap? I put it off for a few years as I didn't think it would make that much difference, but it really does. Also, make sure you keep a close eye on those center caps, they're rather rare and go for a pretty penny on ebay!
Thanks for the suggestions all, most helpful.
A spot of investigation turned up this:
Hopefully this was what was causing the issue, as while I tried to investigate the sunroof drains too, the car was having none of it. I appear to have joined the ranks of 'tilts, but doesn't slide.' I'll be honest, that's low down the list of things to rectify!
Haven't checked it in heavy rain yet as it's been dry, but if it hasn't solved the problem, fixing the sunroof will come higher up the list again!
Used the car to travel down to Rockingham though for the R3 Risk Reduction Driver Training Course.
Superb. Absolutely superb. The use ofa kick plate to deliberately induce a skid for you to catch, really brings on your car control skills!
Got the p1ss taken by the instructors too....
"You'll feel your ABS kick in."
"....ERM...."
Turns out that once you've got the hang of the car being sideways, it's quite easy to catch (in a controlled environment at under 30mph).
Then you can work on not being sideways in the first place!
The season did demonstrate that I really need to adjust my handbrake though and possibly fit those new rear calipers too!
A spot of investigation turned up this:
Hopefully this was what was causing the issue, as while I tried to investigate the sunroof drains too, the car was having none of it. I appear to have joined the ranks of 'tilts, but doesn't slide.' I'll be honest, that's low down the list of things to rectify!
Haven't checked it in heavy rain yet as it's been dry, but if it hasn't solved the problem, fixing the sunroof will come higher up the list again!
Used the car to travel down to Rockingham though for the R3 Risk Reduction Driver Training Course.
Superb. Absolutely superb. The use ofa kick plate to deliberately induce a skid for you to catch, really brings on your car control skills!
Got the p1ss taken by the instructors too....
"You'll feel your ABS kick in."
"....ERM...."
Turns out that once you've got the hang of the car being sideways, it's quite easy to catch (in a controlled environment at under 30mph).
Then you can work on not being sideways in the first place!
The season did demonstrate that I really need to adjust my handbrake though and possibly fit those new rear calipers too!
darkyoung1000 said:
Turns out that once you've got the hang of the car being sideways, it's quite easy to catch (in a controlled environment at under 30mph).
Then you can work on not being sideways in the first place!
The season did demonstrate that I really need to adjust my handbrake though and possibly fit those new rear calipers too!
I've only had my Corrados completely out of shape once or twice due to over exuberant driving & they do behave quite well. Then you can work on not being sideways in the first place!
The season did demonstrate that I really need to adjust my handbrake though and possibly fit those new rear calipers too!
With the rear calipers a new slider kit & a bit of grease is usually enough, although new calipers is a nice reason to go crazy an rebuild the whole back end.
A set of wheel bearings, backing plates (from VW for about £40 a pair), a slider+bolt kit for a tenner an worth grabbing some new stub axle bolts to then you should be set for years :-)
The back calipers on mine usually have a lifespan of 2 - 3.5 years...
wrt the sunroof, if you check out the wiki on the-corrado.net, I think they have a guide for troubleshooting the sunroof, unfortunately VW has made the repair kits obsolete.
If you need any info from the bentley manual though, drop me an email, I have one that I'm happy to grab info from for you.
wrt the sunroof, if you check out the wiki on the-corrado.net, I think they have a guide for troubleshooting the sunroof, unfortunately VW has made the repair kits obsolete.
If you need any info from the bentley manual though, drop me an email, I have one that I'm happy to grab info from for you.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff