The Cobra Adventure
Discussion
Jhonno said:
Oh hello!
I'd recommend Emerald for the ECU, well priced, good support, can do all you need. If you are separating the banks for fuelling you can do dual wideband lambda. No need to spend mental money on a Syvecs type ECU which is laden with features you will never use..
I wasn't aware that emerald had 8 injector drivers or dual lambda? I'd recommend Emerald for the ECU, well priced, good support, can do all you need. If you are separating the banks for fuelling you can do dual wideband lambda. No need to spend mental money on a Syvecs type ECU which is laden with features you will never use..
Presumably there will be extra power too, so cosmetics aside, what a fantastic upgrade. 
Tom4398cc said:
Fantastic car and great thread. I’ve stumbled across it today and really enjoyed reading it.
My big question though, with the house move, have you managed to avoid anyone like “the neighbour from six doors down”?
No one as yet! There’s still time, esp when I have to tune this thing again. My big question though, with the house move, have you managed to avoid anyone like “the neighbour from six doors down”?
Lots going on at the moment!
New oil cooling loop with higher temp thermostat:
Just ordered some custom coilovers for this.
Trying to get the spring rate right for the use it gets.
Aiming for a motion ratio of 1.5/1.6hz, which is about the same as my Alpina.
I'm getting at front spring rate of 180lb/in and a rear of 195lb/in.
This is ignoring any rate within the bushes (as they are probably about 40lb/in) but taking those from my rates would make my rates look very very low!
New oil cooling loop with higher temp thermostat:
Just ordered some custom coilovers for this.
Trying to get the spring rate right for the use it gets.
Aiming for a motion ratio of 1.5/1.6hz, which is about the same as my Alpina.
I'm getting at front spring rate of 180lb/in and a rear of 195lb/in.
This is ignoring any rate within the bushes (as they are probably about 40lb/in) but taking those from my rates would make my rates look very very low!
Throttle linkage all built up now.
Might raise it a little depending on where I can get the injectors to fit.
Also I had a got at mocking the throttle position sensor up. I want it around the back out of the way.
So I removed this bolt from the main shaft and made up a little Ali D piece
Quick test fit of the sensor and it fits quite nicely with room to make a bracket for it.
Might raise it a little depending on where I can get the injectors to fit.
Also I had a got at mocking the throttle position sensor up. I want it around the back out of the way.
So I removed this bolt from the main shaft and made up a little Ali D piece
Quick test fit of the sensor and it fits quite nicely with room to make a bracket for it.
Since my diff is apart I thought I'd look how my ratios stack up.
This thing is geared long!
I could change my diff ratio while its out.
My options are probably a 3.91 ratio from a 325/328 auto:
Which makes it look a bit maybe too short
Or a 3.46 from a E46:
Probably the best, but quite a rare one to find.
This thing is geared long!
I could change my diff ratio while its out.
My options are probably a 3.91 ratio from a 325/328 auto:
Which makes it look a bit maybe too short
Or a 3.46 from a E46:
Probably the best, but quite a rare one to find.
GCCP said:
E46 m3 come with a 3.62 as standard - they come up all the time on M3cutters. Might be a good inbetween option? assuming you have the big 210 diff?
I'm on a medium case. I did look at swapping to the large case, but with how somethings are engineered on the Cobra, it would have clearance issues. 
After building my diff up, it felt far too tight. I was hoping to just get away with the core swap, but that wasn't to be!
So I had a look at an old thread about building an E36 track car where the OP rebuilt the diff. So I reached out to him and bought some diff shims from him.
You use the shims to adjust the drag when the diff is fitted. Looking for between 11-23in/lbs of drag. A wider shim = less drag.
Had a fun night of measuring all the shims he sent.
Diff stripped back down and the original shims measured. I had a 1.48 and a 1.69 in it.
Then it was a case of trying different combos till the drag measured right. I had to use this park tool for bicycles to measure that low in in/lbs!
Final shim stack was, 1.59 and 1.79. Gaining 0.21mm.
After that, the diff could be built back up again. Which requite lightly grilling the crown wheel. Crown bolts torqued to 120lb/ft with loctite.
Put it back together and measured the backlash. All on spec at 0.08mm. Case back together and filled with Kaaz LSD oil.
So I had a look at an old thread about building an E36 track car where the OP rebuilt the diff. So I reached out to him and bought some diff shims from him.
You use the shims to adjust the drag when the diff is fitted. Looking for between 11-23in/lbs of drag. A wider shim = less drag.
Had a fun night of measuring all the shims he sent.
Diff stripped back down and the original shims measured. I had a 1.48 and a 1.69 in it.
Then it was a case of trying different combos till the drag measured right. I had to use this park tool for bicycles to measure that low in in/lbs!
Final shim stack was, 1.59 and 1.79. Gaining 0.21mm.
After that, the diff could be built back up again. Which requite lightly grilling the crown wheel. Crown bolts torqued to 120lb/ft with loctite.
Put it back together and measured the backlash. All on spec at 0.08mm. Case back together and filled with Kaaz LSD oil.
Edited by Waitey on Sunday 7th April 15:29
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