2003 Porsche Boxster S
Discussion
ClaphamBoxS said:
Hi ....great thread have been following and impressed by all your work...
Can i ask you about the Dressle stuff.,,,?....have got a 2001 Boxster with black centre console now showing signs of wear...generally just usual scuffs and light scratching nothing too deep....am reluctant to remove and have it resprayed but this sounds a good alternative....Does it really cover light scratches!? and can you use it on other surfaces than plastic?.Cheers..
It does! Very light marks. It can be applied to metal and rubber, too. But I wouldn't put it ok painted surfaces like the bodywork. Anything you want a sheen on, put it on. Spray it over your engine bay and it makes a gloss, without even rubbing it in.Can i ask you about the Dressle stuff.,,,?....have got a 2001 Boxster with black centre console now showing signs of wear...generally just usual scuffs and light scratching nothing too deep....am reluctant to remove and have it resprayed but this sounds a good alternative....Does it really cover light scratches!? and can you use it on other surfaces than plastic?.Cheers..
Honestly don't be put off by removing the centre console, it's easier than it seems. Primer is easy to do and dries evenly, as does matt spray. Black matt spray is really forgiving and always dries even, then coat with matt lacquer which is also nice. You can remove all bits that aren't plastic too making it easier.
ClaphamBoxS said:
Cheers.....thanks for the info....think i will give that a go first,use it on the centre console and side arm rests...which are also showing signs of wear and tear...
It does look really good in your pics and seeing the bit you didn’t do re arm rest shows it really well...
If it doesn’t work i can think about doing it properly with spray paint etc....not as if i have much else to do in the next few weeks!!lol ..
My door bin lids are also showing signs of wear and will need re-doing very soon, but I'll be painting those myself. I've done lots of things in matt black in the past. The side vents on this car is literally one quick spray of matt black spray - no primer, no lacquer. The result is perfect and it's been years with no wear and tear. Ideally I should have done it with primer and lacquer but I wanted to do it quick.It does look really good in your pics and seeing the bit you didn’t do re arm rest shows it really well...
If it doesn’t work i can think about doing it properly with spray paint etc....not as if i have much else to do in the next few weeks!!lol ..
When I get round to spraying my door bin lids I'll show you the result!
Only a small update. The 12v power plug was missing due to replacing it with the USB for Apple CarPlay. I decided to put it here, in the cubby hole:
Problem is, there was no way of keeping it there from the back:
So I've swapped it back to its original place, and put the CarPlay USB & AUX in there instead.
It has a screw on the back to keep in place, so fits perfectly. It's also handy as I can keep the USB cable plugged in and tucked away neatly, rather than hanging from the front of the radio.
Problem is, there was no way of keeping it there from the back:
So I've swapped it back to its original place, and put the CarPlay USB & AUX in there instead.
It has a screw on the back to keep in place, so fits perfectly. It's also handy as I can keep the USB cable plugged in and tucked away neatly, rather than hanging from the front of the radio.
I've realised that the radio installation has had a few people interested, and it's been sporadic across the posts on this forum, so I thought I'd do a wite up of what it is, how I've fitted it, and what it features. Especially given the recent news of Porsche releacing a new PCM head unit to fit into older cars that's £1,200, which is a complete joke.
To start, I had to bodge a laptop charger cable so that it could power the radio inside the living room, just so I could work on it on the table rather than in the car. To get the radio to work in the car (as the fibre optics powered the previous radio), I ran a 12v feed from the fuse box (piggy backed a fuse). I then just plugged in the correct wires for the speakers straight into the car's original brown adapter that originally went into the old radio. The cage was the trickiest part as it doesn't mount well, so a few screws did the trick.
I've modified and re-coded the operating system to show a custom start screen that I've animated to match that of the newer cars. The car silhouette is more inkeeping with a 986 shape, and the Porsche badge before it is that of the newer one. All of the icons are custom designed, and the Torque interface too.
The installation looks like this:
I've installed a USB and AUX port in the cubby holder. The USB links to Apple CarPlay.
The bottom has a small trim piece to fill the gap as it's not a standard fit. This is actually a piece of wood cut to size, trimmed in gloss black.
So a turn of the key initially shows this:
Then this animates:
That's also the screensaver after a while of inactivity, or if you press the power button. Nice for night driving.
Animation looks like this:
It's to match the PCM of the newer cars - a Cayman GT4 was referenced for its boot sequence.
As mentioned, the home screen has custom icons that I've designed to be inkeeping with the car's orange theme. The icons are monochrome and simple, and have been renamed.
The 'CarPlay' icon is exactly that. A push of this shows Apple CarPlay:
It's a £50 dongle bought off Amazon that tricks a phone into thinking that it's connected to a CarPlay headunit. You then sideload the app, and voila.
The 'Porsche' icon on the home screen actually goes to the custom designed Torque layout, with the orange matching the cars lights (although the colour doesn't seem it in the photo):
Without an OBD2 connected, this shows speed, 0-60 time, and average speed. Kind of a track use layout. With the OBD2 connected it can show a lot more (as shown in the video below).
Here's a video showing the whole thing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxUy_l2T2IM
Features are:
- Android OS (so infinite possibilities with apps here)
- GPS & Navigation
- WiFi
- Bluetooth
- Apple CarPlay
- USB charging & tethering
- 3.5mm jack
- Reverse camera features (currently not installed)
- Brightness dims with headlights
- DAB radio
- DVD player
- Car diagnostics (thanks to Android's Torque app)
My aim was to make it as factory as possible with absolutely no logos of any kind anywhere, and hopefully it's paid off.
The price in total? About £240. £180 for the head unit (a few years back), £50 for the Apple CarPlay dongle, £5 for the microphone and £5 for the USB & AUX port. So if you're tempted to buy a Porsche PCM for £1,200, try this instead and save yourself about £1,000.
If anyone needs any help with their radios, let me know and I'll do my best. Stay safe!
To start, I had to bodge a laptop charger cable so that it could power the radio inside the living room, just so I could work on it on the table rather than in the car. To get the radio to work in the car (as the fibre optics powered the previous radio), I ran a 12v feed from the fuse box (piggy backed a fuse). I then just plugged in the correct wires for the speakers straight into the car's original brown adapter that originally went into the old radio. The cage was the trickiest part as it doesn't mount well, so a few screws did the trick.
I've modified and re-coded the operating system to show a custom start screen that I've animated to match that of the newer cars. The car silhouette is more inkeeping with a 986 shape, and the Porsche badge before it is that of the newer one. All of the icons are custom designed, and the Torque interface too.
The installation looks like this:
I've installed a USB and AUX port in the cubby holder. The USB links to Apple CarPlay.
The bottom has a small trim piece to fill the gap as it's not a standard fit. This is actually a piece of wood cut to size, trimmed in gloss black.
So a turn of the key initially shows this:
Then this animates:
That's also the screensaver after a while of inactivity, or if you press the power button. Nice for night driving.
Animation looks like this:
It's to match the PCM of the newer cars - a Cayman GT4 was referenced for its boot sequence.
As mentioned, the home screen has custom icons that I've designed to be inkeeping with the car's orange theme. The icons are monochrome and simple, and have been renamed.
The 'CarPlay' icon is exactly that. A push of this shows Apple CarPlay:
It's a £50 dongle bought off Amazon that tricks a phone into thinking that it's connected to a CarPlay headunit. You then sideload the app, and voila.
The 'Porsche' icon on the home screen actually goes to the custom designed Torque layout, with the orange matching the cars lights (although the colour doesn't seem it in the photo):
Without an OBD2 connected, this shows speed, 0-60 time, and average speed. Kind of a track use layout. With the OBD2 connected it can show a lot more (as shown in the video below).
Here's a video showing the whole thing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxUy_l2T2IM
Features are:
- Android OS (so infinite possibilities with apps here)
- GPS & Navigation
- WiFi
- Bluetooth
- Apple CarPlay
- USB charging & tethering
- 3.5mm jack
- Reverse camera features (currently not installed)
- Brightness dims with headlights
- DAB radio
- DVD player
- Car diagnostics (thanks to Android's Torque app)
My aim was to make it as factory as possible with absolutely no logos of any kind anywhere, and hopefully it's paid off.
The price in total? About £240. £180 for the head unit (a few years back), £50 for the Apple CarPlay dongle, £5 for the microphone and £5 for the USB & AUX port. So if you're tempted to buy a Porsche PCM for £1,200, try this instead and save yourself about £1,000.
If anyone needs any help with their radios, let me know and I'll do my best. Stay safe!
Not much to update lately. Bought some lovely AutoFinesse Esseence wax for the car as I was seriously unimpressed with Victoria concourse wax. The shine is great, but the durability is even better. Driving the car with a lot of heavy rain and there isn't a mark on the paintwork.
Aside from that, it's pretty much been sat outside with the odd drive to keep it fresh.
However, I've replaced my daily car with something a little nicer:
It's a 2012 Focus Titanium with every optional extra you can think of. Blind spot system, adaptive cruise control with the traffic sign recognition system and emergency braking, auto headlights, wipers, dimming mirrors, ambient lighting, folding mirrors with puddle lights, keyless start and entry, parking sensors, and lots more. It's super smooth and quiet to drive, £20 a year to tax and 78mpg. Couldn't ask for more.
I'll be starting another thread on here about that as I have a few plans for it.
Hope everyone is staying safe?
Aside from that, it's pretty much been sat outside with the odd drive to keep it fresh.
However, I've replaced my daily car with something a little nicer:
It's a 2012 Focus Titanium with every optional extra you can think of. Blind spot system, adaptive cruise control with the traffic sign recognition system and emergency braking, auto headlights, wipers, dimming mirrors, ambient lighting, folding mirrors with puddle lights, keyless start and entry, parking sensors, and lots more. It's super smooth and quiet to drive, £20 a year to tax and 78mpg. Couldn't ask for more.
I'll be starting another thread on here about that as I have a few plans for it.
Hope everyone is staying safe?
Thanks! I certainly shall. I'm currently only taking it for the odd drive or two but nothing substantial.
The things that need doing are:
- O/S/F droplink needs changing
- Exhaust needs welding (slight blow)
- Paint wheel bolts
- Get headlamps clear coated
The headlamps need that to hide some of the slight buff marks here and there, and to stop the yellowing. I'd do it myself with a can of lacquer but I know I'd mess it up as I don't have the best of luck with spray paints. I'll get a bodyshop to do it properly.
The things that need doing are:
- O/S/F droplink needs changing
- Exhaust needs welding (slight blow)
- Paint wheel bolts
- Get headlamps clear coated
The headlamps need that to hide some of the slight buff marks here and there, and to stop the yellowing. I'd do it myself with a can of lacquer but I know I'd mess it up as I don't have the best of luck with spray paints. I'll get a bodyshop to do it properly.
No problem! I've looked at my purchase history and they've been increased to £28.99, which is annoying.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-BONNET-HOOD-GAS-SPRI...
But they're worth it. Need to get another set for the rear boot.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-BONNET-HOOD-GAS-SPRI...
But they're worth it. Need to get another set for the rear boot.
ATM said:
Err hang on. It was just an idea. I'm not that confident ... now.
I've seen a few you tube type videos of people buffing their lights with various grades of wet and dry sand paper. Then they apply clear coat as a form of protection. So if you cant achieve the finish with a spray then wrap feels like the next best thing and cant be anywhere near as hard to get a smooth finish. Lets see some before pics - how bad are your lights now?
They're not terrible. I've given them a polish yesterday and they look new again, but in a few months they'll go yellow. Then it's back to polishing, and it's an endless cycle. If there was anything I could use that I could coat on, it would be great. I may look into some UV protector, if that's such a thing.I've seen a few you tube type videos of people buffing their lights with various grades of wet and dry sand paper. Then they apply clear coat as a form of protection. So if you cant achieve the finish with a spray then wrap feels like the next best thing and cant be anywhere near as hard to get a smooth finish. Lets see some before pics - how bad are your lights now?
But I've given the wrap a try. I can certainly see how it would work but I couldn't get a good enough finish. There were always bubbles, even when using a heat gun and having my girlfriend to slowly lower the vinyl onto the headlamp, and when there were bubbles you'd press them out which leaves a ring mark where it was. I may give it another go but I really don't think I'll be able to do it!
It's a shame! That £10 could have fixed it, rather than god knows how much to get a body shop to clear coat it. I'd do it myself as I have lots of clear coat, but I don't trust myself on headlights that are quite expensive.
Jimmy Recard said:
Your work is fantastic! I love the attention to detail and the perseverance, working it all out and making it right!
The condition of yours is definitely better than mine, and you've done some little fixes here and there that I really want to do to mine. I'll have to pick your brains.
I'm lucky that mine has cruise control, but this does mean that if I want to replace the stalks (self-cancelling problem), I need to get a cruise control stalk module. I'll have to have a look at it and see if your fix will work. Really nice to see how my car could look with the flaws sorted out.
Are you still doing the freelance detailing?
Very much appreciated! Thank you! It's been one hell of a process to get it to where it is now. It's amazing how big of a difference the small details make, and when there are lots of small details done, it transforms the car. For instance, the now gloss-black radio surround, I sat in the car and imagined that matt black the way it was with some scratches on it, and realised how bad it would look in comparison. Then it's the same for the yellow speedo, then everything else on the car.The condition of yours is definitely better than mine, and you've done some little fixes here and there that I really want to do to mine. I'll have to pick your brains.
I'm lucky that mine has cruise control, but this does mean that if I want to replace the stalks (self-cancelling problem), I need to get a cruise control stalk module. I'll have to have a look at it and see if your fix will work. Really nice to see how my car could look with the flaws sorted out.
Are you still doing the freelance detailing?
The self cancellation thing is part of the air bag clock spring if I remember correctly! It's a little tab that pushes the indicator back, but gets rounded off over time, so you just have to make it a flat surface again for it to catch. The cruise control won't have an issue as it's separate from the assembly - I'm actually looking to add this into mine. Jealous that you have it!
As a general rule, I don't do anymore freelance detailing, but I just did my girlfriends parents car so I suppose that means I can do someone else's! Any photos of yours?
And I'd gladly help out on anything, just give me a shout.
ATM said:
There must be a way to prevent the yellowing without clear coat and perhaps without wrapping. What about these modern ceramic coatings?
I know you can paint panels with just a brush but then you need to spend a lot of time buffing them up afterwards. The paint or clear coat is just a layer of stuff which hardens. If you dont get the required finish spraying yourself there are other ways to improve on it after. The general advice is that spraying achieves a better finish quicker but the other methods are equally doable.
I've just been out and have applied some AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection as I've read up online that someone had been detailing cars for years and uses it for headlights. He mentioned that using it every few months stops the yellowing. I've got a couple of bottles of it surprisingly, and after using it they feel like glass, so it's certainly coated it!I know you can paint panels with just a brush but then you need to spend a lot of time buffing them up afterwards. The paint or clear coat is just a layer of stuff which hardens. If you dont get the required finish spraying yourself there are other ways to improve on it after. The general advice is that spraying achieves a better finish quicker but the other methods are equally doable.
Jimmy Recard said:
Well, if I was mistaken about the cruise control thing, thanks. That's very helpful to know.
Mine is on this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
So far I haven't made as much progress as hoped. Removed the RS badge from the rear and replaced the aux belt and tensioner (the first car ever to leave me stranded!)
I have a minor leak to sort now and it's booked into a specialist for a service in August, because I want the stamp in the book and it's the earliest I could get!
Ah excellent. I know yours, I saw it not too long ago and loved the interior. My brother in law used to own a 996 and had the same interior, and it was beautiful. Mine is on this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
So far I haven't made as much progress as hoped. Removed the RS badge from the rear and replaced the aux belt and tensioner (the first car ever to leave me stranded!)
I have a minor leak to sort now and it's booked into a specialist for a service in August, because I want the stamp in the book and it's the earliest I could get!
I'm more than happy to detail yours one day if you'd want, and to give tips on how to maintain it. It's too nice of a car not to get into amazing condition!
Keep it up though, you'll love it.
Hah I wish! Incremental is the way to go to see the evolution of it. You appreciate the car more too, and get to know it better. I've had every single 'common problem' you can think of, so if anything goes wrong just give me a shout and I should be able to give you some guidance!
Headlights are looking like new this evening after the AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection layer. Hopefully this will help stop the yellowing if applied regularly, so I'll give it a try.
Aside from this, not much to report, other than the AutoFinesse Essence wax looking lovely during the day today.
Headlights are looking like new this evening after the AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection layer. Hopefully this will help stop the yellowing if applied regularly, so I'll give it a try.
Aside from this, not much to report, other than the AutoFinesse Essence wax looking lovely during the day today.
Went for a drive this evening to get some fresh air, and also an excuse to take more photos.
I'm quite surprised how different the car looks from the start. All of the small adjustments have added up.
Thanks all
I'm quite surprised how different the car looks from the start. All of the small adjustments have added up.
Thanks all
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 15th July 23:15
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 15th July 23:16
shalmaneser said:
I do like your footwell lights. Especially with them on dim when the headlights are on in the dark it makes the car a much nicer place to be. I'm going to get on that myself.
Car and paint looks really immaculate. I'd love to have a go (very gently and carefully!) at correcting the paint on my 911, what would you suggest as a decent starter kit without spending a fortune?
Thank you! I'll give you a hand wiring them if you like.Car and paint looks really immaculate. I'd love to have a go (very gently and carefully!) at correcting the paint on my 911, what would you suggest as a decent starter kit without spending a fortune?
Regarding polishing, any DAS6 polisher will do the job. Expect to pay around £100 for the machine, then another £30 or £40 for pads and compound.
I wrote up a guide recently on polishing, it has everything you'll need to know. Take a look!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1utU1atyzImernqe6F...
Rob-c33sg said:
Images are awesome sir, nice job sticking with it - looking amazing for it's age especially.
Thank you, very much appreciate it.Phillippe Lambert said:
Photos are superb. Car look amazing, you've put a lot of work into it. Much want here!
It's been a roller coaster, that's for sure! Many thanks though.ATM said:
The problem is some people dont see past the mileage. To assess how much better it looks then you have to see it. Nowadays car buying seems to be done unseen so condition is difficult to assess properly. If you are thinking about selling there is no harm in putting an advert together on here and ask people for some unbiased feedback. Then you just need to decide if the people commenting are genuinely unbiased or not. I'm the kind of buyer who is less interested in how clean and shiny a car is and more interested in what jobs and bits have been fixed or replaced which on a Porsche can be important.
I see what you mean. It is hard to look past the mileage, and places like AutoTrader automatically stamp a 'High price' on it if you label it higher than others with the same mileage. I saw another 986 at the garage I normally go to, in black with the aero kit. My god it was horrible condition, and it had way less miles than this one. The wheel barrels were rotten, paint was matt and faded, headlights yellowing, leather cracked, brakes rusted, etc. The worst thing is, they could list that at a higher price and people would agree from the photos online.So you're definitely right in seeing things in the skin. I'd never sell this for the price of a normal 122,000 mile Boxster. I'm not looking to sell anyway, but someone has to see this to see what it's worth.
Joey Deacon said:
Agreed, from my investigation it appears there is no such thing as a cheap Porsche and it can potentially cost you the purchase price again in repairs if you buy the wrong car.
Working on a car yourself certainly helps here, but you're absolutely right. I save a hell of a lot of money by working on this myself and servicing it myself too, but someone else may want a sports car that they can enjoy trouble free, and Porsches do tend to cost a lot at a garage.Smitters said:
I think in this case you have to find the right buyer. This is someone who will place value on the unusual and unique, not someone who just wants a Boxster.
I had issues selling a 350Z GT4. Limited edition, limited numbers, but 135k. In the end I priced it as though it was a normal 350Z and got enquiries, then a phone call where it basically went: Is it as described? Is it a GT4? Is that really the price? Take my money now, see you tomorrow.
Gutting for me and a bargain for him. I just needed patience but with a baby on the way, that wasn't really an option.
A perfect example. That and what I said above to ATM, is the reason why I couldn't accept the asking price of a usual 122,000 mile Boxster. The condition of it, both cosmetically and mechanically, has been something I've wanted to perfect over the past 5 years, and it's the result of a lot of hard work. There's no knocks, bangs, creaks, leaks, rust, dents, nothing. It drives exactly like it should have from the start.I had issues selling a 350Z GT4. Limited edition, limited numbers, but 135k. In the end I priced it as though it was a normal 350Z and got enquiries, then a phone call where it basically went: Is it as described? Is it a GT4? Is that really the price? Take my money now, see you tomorrow.
Gutting for me and a bargain for him. I just needed patience but with a baby on the way, that wasn't really an option.
I may even replace the suspension for coil over suspension at some point, but set at the standard height so that it's simply a suspension refresh, that's adjustable if need be.
SuperBaaaad said:
This is mega. I love 986’s. Congrats on making this one look incredible.
Many thanks, appreciate the kind words!Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff