Building "Thor"
Discussion
Cobalt Blue said:
Not the curved windscreen you were after, but this looks as though a Meteor belongs in it
Would need to be a replica though, and plus-fours a must.
Magnificent Bugatti. Bound to have his largest straight 8 (I think they ended up using it in a train!).Would need to be a replica though, and plus-fours a must.
I have a few pairs of plus-fours (unlikely as that may seem) but I usually only wear them when I am 'packing' a shotgun.
No way could I create something that beautiful.
Paul
Right, bit more news.
I have spent quite a bit of time researching the twin rear axle drive issue. There are some 'inventive' solutions to getting the drive from the middle axle to the rear one, none of which looked up to the job!
I investigated Unimog axles, truck axles, the off road racing scene and anywhere else I could think of (including the US of A).
Then, in a moment of clarity, I called a LR expert I have used in the past. Hey presto, I have now purchased a genuine 6x6 Salisbury axle'd 1990 27k miles Land Rover rolling chassis.
The chassis is in great condition and I will be able to chop it near the front bulkhead and the Range Rover somewhere around the rear seats then weld the two together with no chassis fabrication needed (other than a bit of strengthening) to give me the right length.
I will have lots of fire engine bits to sell including engine, trans and axles to offset the cost of the extra chassis.
Having done a few calculations I am likely to need to increase the engine crank speed by between 2x and 3x to give me about 1000rpm at 80mph. This will reduce the torque that these axles have to deal with. 1000nm if it is 2x or 675nm if it is 3x.
The fresh chassis will be available for me to collect in about 2 weeks so I will post some pictures then.
Paul
PS. Now looking for an Allison transmission.
I have spent quite a bit of time researching the twin rear axle drive issue. There are some 'inventive' solutions to getting the drive from the middle axle to the rear one, none of which looked up to the job!
I investigated Unimog axles, truck axles, the off road racing scene and anywhere else I could think of (including the US of A).
Then, in a moment of clarity, I called a LR expert I have used in the past. Hey presto, I have now purchased a genuine 6x6 Salisbury axle'd 1990 27k miles Land Rover rolling chassis.
The chassis is in great condition and I will be able to chop it near the front bulkhead and the Range Rover somewhere around the rear seats then weld the two together with no chassis fabrication needed (other than a bit of strengthening) to give me the right length.
I will have lots of fire engine bits to sell including engine, trans and axles to offset the cost of the extra chassis.
Having done a few calculations I am likely to need to increase the engine crank speed by between 2x and 3x to give me about 1000rpm at 80mph. This will reduce the torque that these axles have to deal with. 1000nm if it is 2x or 675nm if it is 3x.
The fresh chassis will be available for me to collect in about 2 weeks so I will post some pictures then.
Paul
PS. Now looking for an Allison transmission.
RoverP6B said:
So, with a new chassis now available, why the need for chopping up the Range Rover fire engine?
The chassis I have just purchased is much rarer than the Carmichael one, and you are still asking about the RR????If we wait long enough then the Carmichael may well grow in value to make the restoration cost viable. However, oil may have run out by then.....
Double standards?
ivanhoew said:
i drove a gearbox reversed in the tvr paul , it worked well as a overdrive .(and gave me 16 gears)
16 gears in a TVR? What TVR can you get two gearboxes into?Edited by ivanhoew on Wednesday 24th February 13:57
There is hardly enough room for the one gearbox in my Cerbera!!!!
Paul
The portal axle idea is something I have ruled out, as what I need to achieve is an increase in speed and most are there to reduce speed. Plus they add weight (un-sprung) and were never intended to do 100mph+.
With the speed increaser (don't know what else to call it) mounted to the engine the advantage is that everything rearward is working with less torque and then has less stress.
And, as has been said, keeping the height of the chassis as low as possible will help with looks (and probably handling too).
Paul
With the speed increaser (don't know what else to call it) mounted to the engine the advantage is that everything rearward is working with less torque and then has less stress.
And, as has been said, keeping the height of the chassis as low as possible will help with looks (and probably handling too).
Paul
Had a delivery of stainless 301 pipe today to make the headers from.
Spent the day working for daughter so this evening I spent an hour figuring out how I turn a 57mm round pipe into an oval that has 40mm radius ends and is 110mm wide.
I have started to make a mandrel to splay the pipe once I have cut it down the centre. Then I will tig weld in two 'V' shape pieces into the centre. Then some trimming and they can be welded to the plasma cut flanges.
Each pipe will be individual and only about 150mm long. It will then have a 45 deg bend before merging into a 6 into 1 tapered collector.
Once I have got something worth a picture or two I will post them.
Also working on the design of the inlet manifold. Need to order some aluminium alloy tomorrow. Decided on 4 throttle bodies rather than the 12 BMW one's. I want the top of the cam covers to be the highest point on the engine. Fitting 4 throttle bodies, one at each end of each bank inside the 'V' will achieve the end result I want.
Each of the 4 throttle bodies will be either 70 or 75mm and may not look as 'tarty' as 12 trumpets but so be it.
Paul
Spent the day working for daughter so this evening I spent an hour figuring out how I turn a 57mm round pipe into an oval that has 40mm radius ends and is 110mm wide.
I have started to make a mandrel to splay the pipe once I have cut it down the centre. Then I will tig weld in two 'V' shape pieces into the centre. Then some trimming and they can be welded to the plasma cut flanges.
Each pipe will be individual and only about 150mm long. It will then have a 45 deg bend before merging into a 6 into 1 tapered collector.
Once I have got something worth a picture or two I will post them.
Also working on the design of the inlet manifold. Need to order some aluminium alloy tomorrow. Decided on 4 throttle bodies rather than the 12 BMW one's. I want the top of the cam covers to be the highest point on the engine. Fitting 4 throttle bodies, one at each end of each bank inside the 'V' will achieve the end result I want.
Each of the 4 throttle bodies will be either 70 or 75mm and may not look as 'tarty' as 12 trumpets but so be it.
Paul
After a bit of research the auto box is sorted.
I am going to have a T400 built to do the job by a drag racing specialist.
The Allison route would give a very sturdy unit but it was going to be heavy, bulky with little UK support/expertise.
The T400 will be built to take the torque/power I will be putting through it and the converter can be re-valved to cope with the high input speed (900 to 1000rpm) at an engine speed of 350rpm.
The T400 is only a 3 speed but top is 1:1 and I will be able to hold it in each gear if I wish.
If I find that the engine is running too many revs at 70/80mph then we can add a doubler to the back of the box. As it sounds it will give 6 gears and make the top gear longer.
6x6 Land Rover chassis should be ready to collect next week.
Now, I need to sort the wheels and tyres.
I plan on using wheel discs so do not need alloy wheels. I am wondering if there are any steel wheel manufacturers out there who could make me some 5 stud 24" x 9.5" wheels?
It may be that alloy wheels may be similarly expensive (!!!) but more easily available Time will tell.
I don't need to purchase them yet, but I do need know I can get (and afford 7 of them!). I will make a set of plywood wheels for now.
Wheel maker suggestions much appreciated.
Paul
I am going to have a T400 built to do the job by a drag racing specialist.
The Allison route would give a very sturdy unit but it was going to be heavy, bulky with little UK support/expertise.
The T400 will be built to take the torque/power I will be putting through it and the converter can be re-valved to cope with the high input speed (900 to 1000rpm) at an engine speed of 350rpm.
The T400 is only a 3 speed but top is 1:1 and I will be able to hold it in each gear if I wish.
If I find that the engine is running too many revs at 70/80mph then we can add a doubler to the back of the box. As it sounds it will give 6 gears and make the top gear longer.
6x6 Land Rover chassis should be ready to collect next week.
Now, I need to sort the wheels and tyres.
I plan on using wheel discs so do not need alloy wheels. I am wondering if there are any steel wheel manufacturers out there who could make me some 5 stud 24" x 9.5" wheels?
It may be that alloy wheels may be similarly expensive (!!!) but more easily available Time will tell.
I don't need to purchase them yet, but I do need know I can get (and afford 7 of them!). I will make a set of plywood wheels for now.
Wheel maker suggestions much appreciated.
Paul
Edited by Storer on Friday 26th February 20:23
ivanhoew said:
in case it helps paul ,
also on the tvr , i at one time , ran a c4 automatic , but with a home made clutch conversion instead of a torque converter .
a problem was that the 1st gear was a high one , to go with the usual trq converter ,and made pulling away a little slow and clutch slippy. for drag racing i just used v low profile tyres to lower the gearing ,and the full throttle clutchless gear changes were a joy .
if you have the option ,and if your not using a trq converter, it may be worthwhile seeing if the gearbox builder can specify a lower 1st gear ,and a more even spread of gears , so you can pull away without cutting the world completely into 3 pieces.
regards
robert.
OOOOPS edit !! just reread your post and you ARE using a converter .carry on as you were !
Yes Robert it will be a full auto to make it remotely useable.also on the tvr , i at one time , ran a c4 automatic , but with a home made clutch conversion instead of a torque converter .
a problem was that the 1st gear was a high one , to go with the usual trq converter ,and made pulling away a little slow and clutch slippy. for drag racing i just used v low profile tyres to lower the gearing ,and the full throttle clutchless gear changes were a joy .
if you have the option ,and if your not using a trq converter, it may be worthwhile seeing if the gearbox builder can specify a lower 1st gear ,and a more even spread of gears , so you can pull away without cutting the world completely into 3 pieces.
regards
robert.
OOOOPS edit !! just reread your post and you ARE using a converter .carry on as you were !
We have all been to car shows and sat in traffic jams or driven through town at the usual crawl.
My clutch leg is already over developed after using the Ultima!
Paul
Steve_D said:
May also be worth considering CNC machined wheels which seems to be the way Chip Foose does his custom wheel designs.
Steve
Can you imagine what they would cost just for 7 pieces of solid aluminium alone!!!Steve
Don't know what billet ally is a tonne but I suspect that is about what you would need. And then throw 80+% in the recycling bin.
I think that may need to be a 'last resort'....
Paul
PS. Wood is cheap....... maybe not!
A bit of searching over the pond has found quite a few manufacturers that offer 24" rims in the size I need. Haven't found one that offers them for Land Rover hubs yet but I am sure I will find one eventually that can produce what I want.
I want a relatively simple wheel.
I have to say I was quite surprised at the prices for what must be a limited market.
The tyres are not horrendously expensive either, until you multiply the price by 7!
I want a relatively simple wheel.
I have to say I was quite surprised at the prices for what must be a limited market.
The tyres are not horrendously expensive either, until you multiply the price by 7!
PhillipM said:
Don't any of them offer blanks so you can just get them bored and drilled to fit the LR?
They probably would but as soon as you get two companies involved in one product you leave yourself open to the situation where each blames the other if there is a problem.And guess who ends up out of pocket.
Paul
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